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Fork pinch bolt seized, snapped off...

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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 17:35 - 29 Jul 2018    Post subject: Fork pinch bolt seized, snapped off... Reply with quote

Hi all,

Doing fork oil, bike is new to me (2004 sv1000s). Fork pinch bolts were all insanely tight and very corroded, three came out, one snapped off. Fork is now off the bike. Plus gas and cutting a slot in the back of the bolt for an impact driver did fuck all, the bolt steel is very soft and there are no signs of it budging. It's just getting more and more chewed up.

As such I think it needs drilling out, or welding to a nut etc etc by someone with a more advanced skillset and toolset than I.

Best place to take it? Garages, engineering firms? What sort of business am I looking for?


I'm in Southampton if anybody can suggest a specific place, otherwise general suggestions would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Donny

https://i.imgur.com/lRoYBQKh.jpg


Last edited by DrDonnyBrago on 08:30 - 30 Jul 2018; edited 2 times in total
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recman
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PostPosted: 17:55 - 29 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got any pics?
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J4mes
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PostPosted: 19:50 - 29 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

if it's stuck stuck fucking stuck I'd be tempted to take it to a machine shop and ask them to drill it out and remove the leftovers from the threads.

I had a threaded insert cut in to a brembo calliper by a machine shop after a garage stripped the original threads beyond repair. I was amazed at how good a job they did.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 20:35 - 29 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

You also have the option of dissolving the bolt out of the fork bottom by using a strong hot alum solution. Plenty of information on Google and Youtube. Smile
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 20:41 - 29 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you don’t have a friendly machine shop then second hand yokes are cheap as piss.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 22:33 - 29 Jul 2018    Post subject: Re: Fork pinch bolt seized, snapped off... Reply with quote

What size bolts? M8? If so, how easily can you find centre? A 6.5mm drill or thereabouts can be put through, and a junior hacksaw with the blade depth reduced if need be used to slit one side of the remains, which should then tap/wiggle out. Don't cut deep into the aluminium, just through the threads!
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 22:35 - 29 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

recman wrote:
Got any pics?


That.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 23:45 - 29 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yoke or axle pinch bolts? I assumed axle. If so use alum, if not, yokes are steel so drill it.

Cut the bolt down the yokes/lower leg slot, allowing you to put a tight fitting drilling guide in the other half of the hole. Drill 3mm then 6mm then peel out the remaining thread.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 07:33 - 30 Jul 2018    Post subject: Re: Fork pinch bolt seized, snapped off... Reply with quote

DrDonnyBrago wrote:
Hi all,

Doing fork oil, bike is new to me (2004 sv1000s). Fork pinch bolts were all insanely tight and very corroded, three came out, one snapped off. Fork is now off the bike. Plus gas and cutting a slot in the back of the bolt for an impact driver did fuck all, the bolt steel is very soft and there are no signs of it budging. It's just getting more and more chewed up.

As such I think it needs drilling out, or welding to a nut etc etc by someone with a more advanced skillset and toolset than I.

Best place to take it? Garages, engineering firms? What sort of business am I looking for?

I'm in Southampton if anybody can suggest a specific place, otherwise general suggestions would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Donny


If the slot is still there in the bolt, hit the yoke with a blow torch and you'll soon be able to wind it in with a screwdriver. Don't melt the ally yoke, rub soap around the area and when the soap turns black it's time to stop heating.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 08:33 - 30 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi all, thanks for the suggestions.

It's the fork lower pinch bolt that holds the axle on.

I've added a pic, the steel is made of cheese and isn't budging, I cut a small slot but it got chewed to bits by my impact driver. I'm concerned that putting too much heat into it will knacker o rings etc for the compression adjuster and damper rod.

I'm leaning towards finding someone to drill it out. If I do it I'm sure to veer off rrack and into the fork leg.

How fast does the alum work? Has anyone actually tried it? I'm not sure I understand the chemistry behind the iron reacting but the aluminium not? Passivation of the aluminium?

It's sat in a bath of plusgas whilst I decide how to rectify.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 09:41 - 30 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure about the chemistry, but it needs to be as concentrated as you can make it and hot (close to a simmer) for it to work effectively. Obviously, you'll need an aluminium, glass or ceramic container. Some people advocate drilling a hole into the steel part to give a greater surface area to attack as well.

It's an old watchmaker's trick for removing steel screws from a brass component Smile
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recman
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PostPosted: 11:38 - 30 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally, I'd start by drilling a 2-3mm hole in the bolt about 1cm deep.
Then I'd use the smallest easy out extractor I had but if it didn't budge I'd go to 4mm and use the next size up easy out.
If none of the above works, its not the end of the world.
Heli-coils are your friend.

https://jrtoolsuk.co.uk/stud-screw-extractor-remover-set-easy-out-5pc-3mm-18mm-by-bergen-2588/
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 11:38 - 30 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have never tried this (alum process). I will see whether I have a bit of light alloy I can experiment with, but it won't be today! I'd also tend to drilling out (and slitting), or even drilling out and helicoiling.
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fatjames
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PostPosted: 12:50 - 30 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wonder if the bolt is binding due to the gap. Maybe try clamping it together / putting the other bolt back in to bring them together?

Hard to explain what I mean. Highly skilled artist's impression:

https://i.imgur.com/qxRsafh.jpg
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 13:04 - 30 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

fatjames wrote:
I wonder if the bolt is binding due to the gap. Maybe try clamping it together / putting the other bolt back in to bring them together?

Hard to explain what I mean. Highly skilled artist's impression:



It has broken just as the thread starts on the side with the bolt still in it. The gap between the front and back of the fork is clear, all tension has been released and it is held in with corrosion alone.
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 14:36 - 30 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

So.... I took the cheater's way out and found an old man in a small, swarf filled workshop full of cylinder heads and oily machining equipment.

£20 and an hour later and it is out.
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J4mes
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PostPosted: 14:45 - 30 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

DrDonnyBrago wrote:
So.... I took the cheater's way out and found an old man in a small, swarf filled workshop full of cylinder heads and oily machining equipment.

£20 and an hour later and it is out.


worth their weight in gold!
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DrDonnyBrago
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PostPosted: 14:54 - 30 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

J4mes wrote:
DrDonnyBrago wrote:
So.... I took the cheater's way out and found an old man in a small, swarf filled workshop full of cylinder heads and oily machining equipment.

£20 and an hour later and it is out.


worth their weight in gold!



Indeed!

FYI other people who are looking for what to google, "engine machining services" found me places doing cylinder head milling, cylinder reboring, helicoils, bolt removal etc. Figured anyone working on cylinder heads for a living would be well versed in extracting stuck bolts.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 14:59 - 30 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good. "How did he do it?".
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recman
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PostPosted: 16:23 - 30 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
Good. "How did he do it?".


Yes, this.
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skatefreak
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PostPosted: 16:29 - 30 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Curious here as well...
Had a crash bobbin bolt bend right over & snap almost flush... well and truly stuck in an the engine mount...
Almost had the front wheel off the ground with fancy easy out rod type thingy so eventually figured snapping that in there would make it even worse so hammered it out, drilled clear through and whacked a nut on the end of a longer bolt...

Not saying it's right but does the job Shifty
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recman
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PostPosted: 16:36 - 30 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

skatefreak wrote:
Curious here as well...
Had a crash bobbin bolt bend right over & snap almost flush... well and truly stuck in an the engine mount...
Almost had the front wheel off the ground with fancy easy out rod type thingy so eventually figured snapping that in there would make it even worse so hammered it out, drilled clear through and whacked a nut on the end of a longer bolt...

Not saying it's right but does the job Shifty


Absolutely. There are plenty of methods to remove a sheared bolt, I once sacrificed a long pozi screwdriver because the bolt was out of reach of my extractor.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:01 - 30 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

My local guy took 45 similarly stuck fork brace bolts out of a set of fork lowers for me using his milling machine. Milled the centres out to the point he could collapse the threads in then ran a tap up the middle.

I really do want to try the hot alum thing myself some time though and that particular part would have loaned itself nicely to it. I've done the opposite by dissolving a stuck alloy seapost out of a steel bike frame with caustic.
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 18:02 - 30 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has anyone tried these?:-

https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/trend-grab-se2-set-grabit-damaged-screw-remover-set-4-pcs?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlMX0x6TH3AIVDZ3tCh2XNANxEAQYAiABEgKFT_D_BwE

They appear to be a step up from the usual "easyout" extractors.
Self centring bit at one end and extractor at the other.
Assuming you can drill a small pilot hole to start with.

Trend do make good woodworking stuff, so not an unknown brand.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 18:06 - 30 Jul 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

The alum trick is one of those things that work better in theory than in practice. If you have an expensive alloy part that absolutely must not suffer any damage at all - such as a complicated part you've machined and snapped a tap off in one of the holes - it's the stuff to use (or sinker EDM).

For a cylinder head or fork lower - drill it out! Dissolving with alum is like trying to get somewhere by hitching a ride on a glacier.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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