Partially stripped oil drain plug - how to permanently affix

[Nipedley]

Long story short, VFR 750 1989 oil drain threads came out with the plug

There's enough there for it to tighten enough to be oil tight. I intended on doing it the right way, remove sump & rethread. I came to removing the exhaust today, at which point I find out the engine has to come out in order to remove the rear downpipes. Lots of maniacal laughter was had

And so, I'm looking for alternatives. I'm thinking a Fumoto type oil drain valve which I can permanently install somehow. Any ideas on this ? I guess worst case scenario, I could get it nice and tight and get it tig welded in place. Any other ideas, JB weld, permanent threadlocker, tig welding ?

Thanks!
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CBR600 (1988) | GS500 (1989)

[WD Forte]

Depending on the diameter I might consider using a threaded insert
installed with JB weld.
You'd have a smaller new drain plug of course and need to ensure the
old thread is scrupulously clean oil free for the JB weld to adhere.

There's the helicoil option of course but never really fancied that for oil drain plugs unless you can get to both sides to remove swarf
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bikers smell of wee

[Nipedley]

It's 12mm x 1.5

There's enough left to get it to seal, but I wouldn't want to do any mileage with it. But that's good news, as whatever I use as an extra just has to help keep it in place

What's the difference between a threaded insert and a helicoil ? I've just had to helicoil a couple of the crankcase cover bolt holes, but as you say would be worried about swarf in the sump. If I could get the sump off I'd sort it properly

Thanks for the reply
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CBR600 (1988) | GS500 (1989)

[Nipedley]

Having a quick google it seems it's like a helicoil but for standard threads - so I could screw in the M12 1.5 insert and use the internal threads for a new drain bolt

Would there be any preference between using that or a drain valve with some JB weld on the threads to lock it in place ? I'll degrease the **** out of the hole first

Leaning towards the drain valve, as they seem super convenient anyway, but I defer to anyone here's experience

Many thanks
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CBR600 (1988) | GS500 (1989)

[A100man]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/M12-1-50-Single-Oversize-Clipsandfasteners-Inc/dp/B0040CRVD8
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Now: A100, SRX250, XJ598, FZ750, SL1000

Then: Fizz, RS200, KL250, XJ550, Laverda Alpina, XJ600, FZS600, Skorpion, GT 250

[stinkwheel]

Sump plug is 12mm I think (check). If it's not properly stripped, you could run a thread chaser along it.

It may be possible to fit an oversize sump plug if there's enough metal around the sump. You will probably find you can run an M13 tap up the existing hole. If you proceed slowly and grease it well, you should be able to "keep" all the swarf on the tap.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sump-Plug-Oil-Drain-Repair-Rethreader-Kit-M12-M13-Thread-AN044/400977596054?hash=item5d5c208e96:g:~6MAAOSwwcRadYQJ

When you fit the new one, use a bonded seal/dowty washer which will seal with WAY less force and is reusable, this will remove the temptation top ramshee it down.

You can definately fit an exhaust system to later VFR750s (>1990) without removing the engine (but you do have to remove the mainstand). It's a hell of a fiddle but do-able. I've done it on both. I landed up removing the rear wheel and threading together a whole load of socket extension bars to get on the rear exhaust nuts. Yours may be different though.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[recman]

[WD Forte]

I use JB weld and JB Kwik and found it damn good stuff

In case you don't know, they're both essentially the same but
JB Kwik doesn't have the higher temperature resistance of JB weld
120C Vs 220C+ at a rough guess, maybe more.
so I'd go belt and braces and use JBweld and give it time to cure properly.
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bikers smell of wee

[Nipedley]

Many thanks for the replies guys

I'm going to attempt the M13 rethreading first, that sounds like it shouldn't be too bad. I'll swill it out afterwards with a liberal amount of oil. For grease on the tap is anything okay like a bit of lithium grease ?

Mine's the 1st gen VFR, and the rear exhaust nuts are directly behind a large piece of the frame. Only one of them is even visible and I can't get to it, so I think that's a no-go for now. Only if things get more drastic !

Annoyingly, I did the last oil change and I used my (decent quality) torque wrench. The torque value for the oil drain bolt listed in the haynes manual did seem a bit much though
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CBR600 (1988) | GS500 (1989)

[stinkwheel]

[redeem ouzzer]

Just helicoil it in situ. Pour a couple of litres of cheap oil through the system to rinse off any swarf.
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Be a REAL MAN!

[WmY]

[Nipedley]

The M13 rethreading kit worked a treat. Managed to get hold of one locally and did the job today

Thanks for your suggestions
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CBR600 (1988) | GS500 (1989)

[A100man]