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ZZR 600E Finding the bent bit

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Blindingly Obvious
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 25 Jun 2018
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PostPosted: 22:36 - 25 Jun 2018    Post subject: ZZR 600E Finding the bent bit Reply with quote

A couple of years ago, I was on my kawasaki ZZR 600, when someone reversed out of a parking bay, into the front left. Finally got the bike back from the 3rd parties insurer, 2 years later with a CAT C marker, and set about getting it back on the road.

First thing to tackle, the steering. It wasn't a massive impact, and so when the steering touched the left side of the tank I wasn't too worried. However I have stripped the front end completely and frustratingly I can't find what's causing the issue. I'm completely out of ideas as to what the problem could be now, and so am asking if any of you can point me in a direction which isn't bent frame.

So, pictures. Everybody likes pictures, right? Even if they are taken by a blind man. Mr. Green

impact point.
https://i.imgur.com/hJnq6kt.jpg
The bike did go over, and land heavy on the right side, can't seem to find any more pictures of it together at the moment I have them somewhere if they may help i'll try and dig them out.

Now with the bars turned to the left (i'll just leave links to these images, as there appears to be no spoiler tags here)

https://i.imgur.com/5lc6K3Y.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/5mCCGmN.jpg

The mess on the lock stops is the remainder of some soft aluminium that was stuck to them, presumably protectors though I have no idea where to buy them.

https://i.imgur.com/BdQxmuh.jpg

Anyways I removed the front wheel, and forks, the forks basically fell out of the yokes when loosened, am fairly confident the forks and bottom yoke are straight. Though any better way to check this, than rolling the forks on a flat surface, and placing the bottom yoke also on a flat surface would be welcomed. Come to think of it I haven't checked the top yoke.

So not finding anything obviously bent, I twiddled my thumbs, had a think, started messing with the steering, when I noticed that the bottom yoke is fouling on the radiator, when turned to the right (note bars touch the tank when turned left)

https://i.imgur.com/4SeHelL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/YPqbLtL.jpg

Apologies for my lack of photography skills, I may need to employ a blind man as i'm sure he'd be better, but I hope you can see where it is fouling on the top of the front rad guard mount thing.

So, this is where i'm at, and i'm stuck. I can't possibly imagine that the steering stem is bent, but if anyone can suggest an idiot proof way to check that, i'd be glad to hear it. That leaves only the frame, and again, with my wonky eyes it all looks straight, though to be fair I don't know what I was expecting to see, it's not like it's that far out, just enough to be a problem. So likewise, anything I can do to check the frame / headstock? Or have I potentially missed the obvious?

I'm tempted to buy a scabby second hand stem off Ebay, and throw that on, but there's no guarantee that won't be bent.

Thanks for reading through the tale of frustration. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
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WmY
Renault 5 Driver



Joined: 21 May 2018
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PostPosted: 23:54 - 25 Jun 2018    Post subject: Re: ZZR 600E Finding the bent bit Reply with quote

Blindingly Obvious wrote:

The mess on the lock stops is the remainder of some soft aluminium that was stuck to them, presumably protectors though I have no idea where to buy them.


Ugh, lock stops. I am having trouble with them, I would try to examine them most carefully, and whatever they coincide with, to see if there's a problem there. Perhaps the "remainder of some soft aluminium" was them? Clip on itself bent?
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mentalboy
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Joined: 05 May 2012
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PostPosted: 00:10 - 26 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you try riding it before stripping down? If so how did it handle?
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Blindingly Obvious
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 25 Jun 2018
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PostPosted: 16:19 - 26 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

The lock stops are present and in tact, what I meant by the remainder of soft aluminium is the 2 pieces of mashed metal in the 4th pic I just hadn't cleaned the bottom yoke before taking pictures.

The left clipon could be bent I still haven't checked that properly yet, as I noticed the bottom yoke fouling on the rad, so there is an issue with the stem / frame as the rad looks to be straight. I'll take the switchgear off and check the clipons properly when I get a chance to take another look.

As for riding it before tearing it to bits, I rode it home after the crash, about 2 miles with no left rearset (broke in the crash) and fractured coccyx. I don't remember any pulling / swaying, but that's not to say there wasn't. My backside was creating at every bump, and with no left rearset if there was any pulling I probably put it down to one of those and forgot about it.
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Blindingly Obvious
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 25 Jun 2018
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PostPosted: 19:13 - 26 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, so I pulled all the switchgear off and checked the clip ons with a metal ruler, there's no bow, and the bar doesn't look to be bent as it comes out of the clip on.

Measured the gap between airbox and bar at full left lock, against the stop. 40mm. measured the gap between airbox and bar at full right lock against the stop. 50mm. I put the forks which i'm certain are straight, in the wrong way round, left fork in right side and vice versa and the gaps were the same.

Put the ruler along the steering stem and it's difficult to be sure as it changes in diameter in places, but it's either straight, or 1mm out at the top thread.

If no one has any other ideas I may just chuck some cash at an ebay stem, if it's straight and fixes the problem, great, if it's straight and doesn't fix the problem I can only assume frame, put it back together and see if I can get anything for it as a spares bike. If the 'new' stem is bent unless it's bent exactly the same way results should change.
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mentalboy
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Joined: 05 May 2012
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PostPosted: 23:28 - 26 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blindingly Obvious wrote:

Measured the gap between airbox and bar at full left lock, against the stop. 40mm. measured the gap between airbox and bar at full right lock against the stop. 50mm. .


So the only thing that you can certainly say is that there is a ten mil difference between the air box at either lock, presumably you've made sure that the air box is set in the frame symmetrically?
You haven't ridden the bike for two years (ish), so can't say for certain that anything's bent. Your lock stops appear to be mashed up so there is nothing stopping the bars fouling the tank.
And now you're going to chuck money at random parts until you sort out a problem that may not exist???

If it were me I'd have taken it for a test ride, checked that the wheel alignment was good and visually inspected the forks before stripping everything down. Without getting it back together you have no idea what, if anything, is amiss. Any sign of dinks on the frame at the impact point?
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Blindingly Obvious
L Plate Warrior



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PostPosted: 07:03 - 27 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used the airbox to get measurements because the bar touches the tank just before the lock stop on the left, as you can see by the first picture, there is a slight dent in the tank where the bar has slapped it. So I could get an idea of how much it's oversteering to the left.

Before stripping down I did visually inspect the forks, and saw nothing obviously wrong, loosened the axle, and went straight for the lock stops, the weakest link. The lock stops on the bottom yoke are fine, the protectors seemingly did their job, and the stops are straight, and undamaged, missing some paint at the touch point, yes, but not dented / disfigured. The stop on the frame however for right turn looks a little torn up, and I can't remember what the other side looks like, i'll have to double check that.

The reason I got it in my head that something has to be bent, is because before I tore the front end down, and discovered the bottom yoke fouling on the rad, I thought the steering was WAY out, because there was barely any right lock, and far too much extra lock to the left, which is possibly the radiator itself or it's mountings slightly twisted, so I should forget about that for now, and focus once again on the steering geometry perhaps. Once I discovered it was fouling the rad, and got it past the rad, the lock when steered to the right looks about right, not certain the exact lock on this bike though.

So you've basically done what I was hoping, and made me realise i'm focusing on a bend that may actually not exist, because of the rad fouling.

Something I really should have done, but didn't because again, I didn't think it was a massive impact, and was sure it had to be lock stops until I pulled it apart, was check the wheel alignment, and that's something i'll do in the next day or 2, put the front back together, get it back on the ground and check the alignment.

Unfortunately I can't realistically test ride it, without getting a new rearset, cleaning the carbs, probably replacing the battery, and filling the tank with fresh fuel, and possibly a new fuel filter, and even then I can't realistically test ride further than my own street which won't tell me alot.

finally, I can't believe the stem would be the first, and only thing to bend, being steel as opposed to the rather fragile in comparison forks, and the aluminium frame, it is however the only thing i'm not confident measures straight, which is why I considered trying a different stem.

As for the state of the frame, at the impact point there is quite a bit of bruising I guess i'd call it, the frame is rather marked there, but there are no dents as such more scratching / dark spots. Will try to remember to get a picture before I put it back together.

Thanks for your input.
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mentalboy
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PostPosted: 01:22 - 28 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blindingly Obvious wrote:
I used the airbox to get measurements because the bar touches the tank just before the lock stop on the left, as you can see by the first picture, there is a slight dent in the tank where the bar has slapped it. So I could get an idea of how much it's oversteering to the left.

Before stripping down I did visually inspect the forks, and saw nothing obviously wrong, loosened the axle, and went straight for the lock stops, the weakest link. The lock stops on the bottom yoke are fine, the protectors seemingly did their job, and the stops are straight, and undamaged, missing some paint at the touch point, yes, but not dented / disfigured. The stop on the frame however for right turn looks a little torn up, and I can't remember what the other side looks like, i'll have to double check that.

The reason I got it in my head that something has to be bent, is because before I tore the front end down, and discovered the bottom yoke fouling on the rad, I thought the steering was WAY out, because there was barely any right lock, and far too much extra lock to the left, which is possibly the radiator itself or it's mountings slightly twisted, so I should forget about that for now, and focus once again on the steering geometry perhaps. Once I discovered it was fouling the rad, and got it past the rad, the lock when steered to the right looks about right, not certain the exact lock on this bike though.



Firstly, my comment about the air box was highlighting the fact that manufacturers may fitbits that you think should be symmetrical but, more often than not, aren't. Unless you can measure a straight example to compare then the measurements have no basis.

Secondly, I'm confused about the state of your lock stops. To clarify the stops are on the frame, what they contact with are usually just small protusions on the bottom yoke.
These machines normally come with fairly small clearance between bars and tank, 30mm ish at a guess. I would not be the first zed rider who has decreased their lock by gluing a handy nut to each stop Whistle

Thirdly, the rads on these are three point mounted if they are anything like the 1100, and if so the mounts are not very hefty, might be worth checking that the rad hasn't been shunted sideways.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 06:34 - 28 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

After you stripped it down did you put it all back together and check again? If not, do it before you continue because the symptoms point to the forks being twisted in the yokes which is common in this type of accident. Removing and refitting the forks (or just loosening them and kicking the front wheel round) is all that's usually required.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Blindingly Obvious
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 25 Jun 2018
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PostPosted: 22:03 - 29 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today I finally put it back together again properly, not just 'dry fit' or test fit. and tried to check the wheel alignment.

https://i.imgur.com/Vss013Y.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/9ubjZG2.jpg

Measurements taken from the widest point of the front tyre in line with the string.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 30 Jun 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Blindingly Obvious wrote:
Today I finally put it back together again properly, not just 'dry fit' or test fit. and tried to check the wheel alignment.

https://i.imgur.com/Vss013Y.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/9ubjZG2.jpg

Measurements taken from the widest point of the front tyre in line with the string.


Nothing wrong with that.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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