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Triumph electrical gremlins - possible ECM relay issue?

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MarJay
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PostPosted: 12:53 - 09 Aug 2018    Post subject: Triumph electrical gremlins - possible ECM relay issue? Reply with quote

So. A week ago I got back from a 10 day holiday touring through Wales, the midlands, the peak district etc. Went over the Cat and Fiddle pass etc. Was great. Bike ran like an absolute dream. Since getting back from Holiday I did not ride the bike for about a week.

We come to Yesterday. I rode it about 15 miles over to my Parents house, and it worked fine. I rode it about 4 miles over to where my martial arts class is, it worked fine. When I got out of the class? Hmm. I put the key in the ignition, and there is no response. No lights, no whir of the fuel pump, no dash activity. Weirdly though, the indicators and horn work, and I discovered this morning that the brake light also works. I stuck a meter across the battery, 15.5v. After wheeling the bike under a street light last night, I checked the fuses (which seemed OK) and I reseated all the relays too. So in the end I locked the bike up and cadged a lift home from my GF who was pretty grumpy to have to drive a 20 mile ish round trip. I returned today to collect the bike using my beautiful Passat estate and trailer combo.

So The status right now is as follows:

Arrow Bike still strapped to the trailer waiting for the rain to stop (trailer ramp is perfectly smooth, so I can't imagine what fun it'll be unloading in the rain Rolling Eyes ).
Arrow The bike is mechanically fine
Arrow Turning on the ignition appears to give no response, but it allows the indicators, horn and brake light to work properly so it must be doing something.
Arrow No headlights, taillight, side lights, dash illumination, no dash activity of any sort.
Arrow I don't use the kill switch a lot but I confirmed it's in the 'run' position. I checked it in both positions just to be sure I wasn't being a dumbass.
Arrow Battery showing 15.5v (healthy I'd say).
Arrow A late night street lamp check of the fuses did not show any problems - This includes the ignition fuse, ECM fuse etc.

So the only common factor I can see amongst this is the ECM relay which doesn't have connections to the horn, indicators or brake light circuits, but does control the ECM (obviously) which has many links to the dash, fuel pump etc but interestingly this relay is also wired directly into the headlights... Seems logical, right?

Hopefully someone with experience of Street Triples or Daytonas will confirm, or some other person generally cleverer than me will just tell me I'm talking nonsense...
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rpsmith79
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PostPosted: 13:48 - 09 Aug 2018    Post subject: Re: Triumph electrical gremlins - possible ECM relay issue? Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:

Arrow Battery showing 15.5v (healthy I'd say).


I'm guessing you mean 12.5V, as 15.5V with the engine not running would be rather odd, would probably be a bit on the high side if it was running too
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 14:14 - 09 Aug 2018    Post subject: Re: Triumph electrical gremlins - possible ECM relay issue? Reply with quote

rpsmith79 wrote:
I'm guessing you mean 12.5V, as 15.5V with the engine not running would be rather odd, would probably be a bit on the high side if it was running too


No, I do mean 15.5v. My Multimeter is a bit weird sometimes, but I did think this was a bit odd. Maybe the battery has overcharged? I did try to jump the bike off of the Passat last night, but the Passat's engine was not running (so no overcharging there) and I had the same symptoms.
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rpsmith79
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PostPosted: 14:24 - 09 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is odd then

I don't suppose you have another battery you could try in place of the one fitted, or even bypassing your existing battery entirely and just hooking it direct to the car battery, even if just to see if the dash lights up etc

Or at least check your multi-meter on the cart battery, see if that shows 12 or 15V
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rpsmith79
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PostPosted: 14:31 - 09 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just found this thread

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=300226

Might be worth checking the battery in your multimeter
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 14:34 - 09 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

rpsmith79 wrote:
Just found this thread

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=300226

Might be worth checking the battery in your multimeter


It is an ancient meter... Maybe it needs a new battery? I'll go look now.

[edit] Replaced meter battery, now shows 16 volts! So I checked all of the other 4 bikes in the garage (as below, plus the GF's ER6N) and they all show an identical 16 volts. Methinks I'll be buying a new multimeter in short order!

I'm still thinking ECM relay... [edit]
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Dr. DaveJPS
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PostPosted: 15:30 - 09 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

CPS? Whats the reading off the sensor?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 16:02 - 09 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dr. DaveJPS wrote:
CPS? Whats the reading off the sensor?


If it were that it would cause problems firing, rather than having any electrical response whatsoever.

Looking at the Triumph forums it's either the ECM relay or a wire that goes from the ignition barrel to the ECM relay that goes via a multi plug where one of the pins burns out.

Let's hope it's not this:

https://www.triumphrat.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=478529&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1505155467
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McJamweasel
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PostPosted: 17:52 - 09 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

What year is the bike?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 17:55 - 09 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

McJamweasel wrote:
What year is the bike?


2009. One of the earliest round headlight Street Triple R's.
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McJamweasel
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PostPosted: 17:57 - 09 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuckit, I'm not helping. It's time you bought a new one! Laughing
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McJamweasel
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PostPosted: 18:07 - 09 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

It'll be the ignition switch. The ECM relay doesn't affect the instrument power. Indicators and horn take a different feed from the ignition than the instruments, ECM & so on.

When the ignition is on, you should get continuity between pins 1, 4 & 5 on the switch connector. If not, that's your problem.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 18:22 - 09 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

McJamweasel wrote:
It'll be the ignition switch. The ECM relay doesn't affect the instrument power. Indicators and horn take a different feed from the ignition than the instruments, ECM & so on.

When the ignition is on, you should get continuity between pins 1, 4 & 5 on the switch connector. If not, that's your problem.


It's a flipping awesome bike Col, I own it outright, I have no debts. It's fast enough for me and handles like very little I've ever ridden. It's been set up by Tony Scott both fuelling and suspension so in reality it's a very special bike to me. You'll have to really convince me to upgrade. I mean REALLY.

I suspect it's the burned out pin on the connector as per the pic above, so I'll be taking the tank and airbox off tomorrow.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
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P.
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PostPosted: 08:16 - 10 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

That, or theres some really easy to wear down wires near the headstock which split on mine and had to be extended and repaired as it literally tried to chop through them.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 13:21 - 10 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
It's been set up by Tony Scott both fuelling and suspension so in reality it's a very special bike to me.


I wasn't aware Tony Scott did suspension work, thought he only did engines?

If you think its the relay just bypass it and feed power straight to the ECM assuming it doesn't have a resistor in the ignition dropping the voltage. That'll tell you if its the problem.

Show us a wiring diagram, whether it has an immobiliser etc and we can probably be more precise.

As McJamweasel says I would be surprised if the ECM affects the display lighting but on the other hand Kawasaki's for example often have a box that is full of relays for things like the headlight but a quick look at a wiring diagram would tell us what is what.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 13:40 - 10 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
MarJay wrote:
It's been set up by Tony Scott both fuelling and suspension so in reality it's a very special bike to me.


I wasn't aware Tony Scott did suspension work, thought he only did engines?

If you think its the relay just bypass it and feed power straight to the ECM assuming it doesn't have a resistor in the ignition dropping the voltage. That'll tell you if its the problem.

Show us a wiring diagram, whether it has an immobiliser etc and we can probably be more precise.

As McJamweasel says I would be surprised if the ECM affects the display lighting but on the other hand Kawasaki's for example often have a box that is full of relays for things like the headlight but a quick look at a wiring diagram would tell us what is what.


It's a different Tony Scott, there were more than one! I'm talking about the T3 Racing Tony Scott, not the famous V4 tuner Tony Scott.

I have a wiring diagram in my Haynes manual, I'll see if I can get it up here somehow.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 18:58 - 13 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

For those that are interested, I took the tank and airbox off, and found the burned pin exactly as I expected:
https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/burnedpinsmall.jpg

and for those who are interested, here's the wiring diagram:

https://imgur.com/u3C8pw7

The brown wire goes from pin 1 on that connector and appears to connect to the starter solenoid.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
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rpsmith79
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PostPosted: 07:01 - 14 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what is the actual fix then, replace the whole plug? and is there a likely hood of it happening again?

Reason i ask is that this is one of the bikes on my shortlist for when i can afford to upgrade, so any reliability issues are handy to know about
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P.
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PostPosted: 07:15 - 14 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

rpsmith79 wrote:
So what is the actual fix then, replace the whole plug? and is there a likely hood of it happening again?

Reason i ask is that this is one of the bikes on my shortlist for when i can afford to upgrade, so any reliability issues are handy to know about


Buy a later model. This issue might not have gone, but standard triumphs can be started with a 2p coin and ridden off. Either fit an immob or get a later one.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 11:55 - 14 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

rpsmith79 wrote:
So what is the actual fix then, replace the whole plug? and is there a likely hood of it happening again?

Reason i ask is that this is one of the bikes on my shortlist for when i can afford to upgrade, so any reliability issues are handy to know about


The fix is to snip the 1 pin wires on either end of the connector, and connect them together using a 20A automotive fuse holder. I have one on the way from ebay, just waiting for it to arrive before I connect it. I have a new soldering iron and some lead solder, so I will likely crimp and solder them together. I suppose if I was feeling especially paranoid, I could fit a small toggle switch to it as well, and mount it somewhere under the left hand radiator cover for extra immobilisation.

By the way, Paddy is wrong. The earliest Street Triple R is the one to go for. Has lower gearing and is more nutty to ride. Especially if you have a garage and the bike has the full Arrow system.

He's probably right about security though... Triumph didn't worry about it until very recently.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
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rpsmith79
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PostPosted: 12:14 - 14 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice one, cheers for the heads up guys, will bear it in mind when i start my hunt for one
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P.
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PostPosted: 16:31 - 14 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Trust me, I prefer the older one Laughing So does every thief.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 11:31 - 15 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

The fix in place:
https://cdn.bcf.44bytes.net/files/fuseholdersmall.jpg

Haven't had time to put the airbox and tank back on yet, but will hopefully do so today.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 13:24 - 15 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
The fix is to snip the 1 pin wires on either end of the connector, and connect them together using a 20A automotive fuse holder.


Would it not have made more sense to extend the wires and join them with a single pole water proof connector?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 14:56 - 15 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
MarJay wrote:
The fix is to snip the 1 pin wires on either end of the connector, and connect them together using a 20A automotive fuse holder.


Would it not have made more sense to extend the wires and join them with a single pole water proof connector?


Is that not what I did? I just happened to use the 20A fuse holder as the extension.

I looked at those waterproof Amp Superseal connectors (which I have a massive set of) but it seems they are only rated to about 12A, so I decided to use a waterproof bullet connector I had lying about which I crimped and soldered in place, and I covered it with a piece of heatshrink. Belt and braces and all that. The other connection was soldered and heatshrunk with a bit of tape just to ensure the ends were sealed.
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