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Rear wheel Locks up when Torqued to correct settings, possib

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 Topic moved: from General Bike Chat to The Workshop by stinkwheel (12 Aug 2018 - 09:29)
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Busby
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PostPosted: 09:18 - 12 Aug 2018    Post subject: Rear wheel Locks up when Torqued to correct settings, possib Reply with quote

Hi All, I have a Kawasaki gpz600 1987. When torquing up the rear wheel it locks up and cannot be rotated! I don't think this should happen! Torque settings are 110 MN, it's fine at 80 MN but gets gradually stiffer after that. Any suggestions. Thanks Busby.
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TbirdX
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PostPosted: 09:45 - 12 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Torque it to 80 then.

Is the wrench calibrated? Are the spacers correct etc.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 10:37 - 12 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

It shouldn't lock-up.

Either something has collapsed/deformed or you've missed out a spacer/got one in backwards somewhere.

I'd check the cush drive spacer and bearing first-off. The wheel spacer with the "top hat" should be on the right, the plain one should be on the left.

Also make sure it's not the brake binding.
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MattJ
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PostPosted: 10:46 - 12 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

As the others have said, check all your spacers. In particular check if there should be a spacer between the sprocket carrier and the left wheel bearing.
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Confusion
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PostPosted: 10:50 - 12 Aug 2018    Post subject: Re: Rear wheel Locks up when Torqued to correct settings, po Reply with quote

Busby wrote:
Hi All, I have a Kawasaki gpz600 1987. When torquing up the rear wheel it locks up and cannot be rotated! I don't think this should happen!


Something is wrong. Have you lost the spacer that fits between
the sprocket carrier and the wheel?

Have you fitted new wheel bearings? Is the bearing spacer/sleeve in place?

Check everything and then check again.

Quote:
Torque settings are 110 MN


Mega-newtons! 110N.m sounds reasonable for a rear axle. Is your
torque wrench calibration ok and are you using the correct scale?
Radical over tightening could have damaged the bearing spacer.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 15:27 - 13 Aug 2018    Post subject: tight Reply with quote

what have you done the bike recently, and why did you remove the back wheel ?

you know of cmsnl for the exploded views which will show what bits go where etc..

Have you just replaced the wheel bearinsg by chance ????
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temeluchus
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PostPosted: 17:26 - 13 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://us.fowlersparts.co.uk/main/img/assemblies/large/25ea4fe8bb323f29f38ac79291b0d1e0.png?
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Last edited by temeluchus on 06:56 - 16 Aug 2018; edited 1 time in total
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Busby
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PostPosted: 10:32 - 14 Aug 2018    Post subject: Rear wheel tight Reply with quote

Hi All Thanks for the replies, I only released the locking nut to tighten the chain, I've not replaced an bearings or existing spacers. I will look to see if they are in the correct positions or even in place!
Thanks again. busby.
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fatjames
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PostPosted: 11:58 - 15 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Asked for advice and listened. Didn't get buthurt when asked to check things over. Hasn't welded the drivechain. This one sounds like a keeper.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 12:22 - 15 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recall having a similar problem after a full disassembly -so different to your situation, but anyway- it was the rear brake mount not sitting right.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:46 - 15 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you haven't had it apart, the spacers ought to be in the right place. I'd definaitely be wanting to check the sprocket carrier bearing. They can collapse into a pile of metal swarf on a Kawasaki and not show much sign of it.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Busby
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PostPosted: 01:06 - 16 Aug 2018    Post subject: Rear wheels lock Reply with quote

Once again indebted for the advice, I have a print, of of the schematics for the spacers etc! So when I get the new chain, sprockets and bearings I can take it all apart and rebuild the wheel. I will keep you informed.
regards Busby.
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fatjames
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PostPosted: 13:51 - 16 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just an afterthought. As you were tightening the axel bolt, was the chain getting tighter? That might cause the wheel to lock up, or at least tighten up, if it got really tight.
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Busby
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PostPosted: 12:52 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

fatjames wrote:
Just an afterthought. As you were tightening the axel bolt, was the chain getting tighter? That might cause the wheel to lock up, or at least tighten up, if it got really tight.



Hi, No the chain did not get any tighter as I had tightened the locking bolts and nuts on the adjuster! regards Busby.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 13:45 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

As mentioned all bearings and spacers need checking for wear.
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iooi
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PostPosted: 16:08 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Busby wrote:
fatjames wrote:
Just an afterthought. As you were tightening the axel bolt, was the chain getting tighter? That might cause the wheel to lock up, or at least tighten up, if it got really tight.



Hi, No the chain did not get any tighter as I had tightened the locking bolts and nuts on the adjuster! regards Busby.


Are your sure.... Did you check the chain. As even when you tighten up the adjusters and lock nuts. Tightening the spindle can force them backwards and tighten the chain.

Remember, no matter how tight the lock nuts are, to tighten the chain you are moving it in the opposite direction to what the lock nuts and adjusters are designed to do.
ie stop it moving forwards....

If its not the above (gets my vote) and you had not removed the wheel. Then your torque wrench is fucked.....

Dump the torque wrench. Get it tight and then adjust so you can get the split/R clip in. Even if it means slacking a bit.
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