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Can these discs be saved?

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R1stu
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PostPosted: 13:09 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Can these discs be saved? Reply with quote

As per title really. My mate thinks we can rescue these. I on the other hand, am not so sure.

https://imgur.com/a/tz2GtCk
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 13:24 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it surface rust or are they pitted?
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nowhere.elysium
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PostPosted: 13:48 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
Is it surface rust or are they pitted?

This is the only pertinent question. To me, they look like that rust is more than just light surface corrosion, but I'm not really the type to go trying to recover discs of unknown age and provenance.
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skatefreak
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PostPosted: 13:52 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

If they are not pitted and its just surface rust then I would whack them on and sheepishly ride up and down the street and 'wear' them back in...

If they're pitted the would need skimming which could potentially leave them below serviceable thickness and generally frowned upon with bike disks.
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R1stu
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PostPosted: 13:54 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

will get a better look when home, I thought at least one looks like eggshells
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 15:26 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Re: Can these discs be saved? Reply with quote

R1stu wrote:
As per title really. My mate thinks we can rescue these. I on the other hand, am not so sure.

https://imgur.com/a/tz2GtCk


What's supposed to be the matter with them?
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 15:28 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perfectly alright, check the thickness. Thumbs Up
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 15:36 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’m gonna bet that under that surface rust, they’ll be alright.

I guess it might depend on what you intend to attach them to?
Would I attach them to my newly refurbished R1busakawabird?, no.

However my smaller hack ride, possibly, I might give them a try.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 15:55 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is only one way to find out.
Ask an engineer to cut the rust off to remove the pitting.
They only need to cut enough shit off to allow the clean metal to be measured with a Mic.
If under-size then u lose.

The rust has to come off or it will affect the braking. The rust will grind off and pack into the brake pads rendering them useless.
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R1stu
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PostPosted: 16:23 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
I’m gonna bet that under that surface rust, they’ll be alright.

I guess it might depend on what you intend to attach them to?
Would I attach them to my newly refurbished R1busakawabird?, no.

However my smaller hack ride, possibly, I might give them a try.


Its from the little 350 project im working on. I will take the grinder to them later and see.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 16:45 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are they off/for?
If they are stainless discs..... to be that bad, then they are probably shot.
If they aren't stainless... Grimeca/Brembo wop-fitment, Morini/Guzzi/Ducati etc.... they look pretty normal.... Er-Nibs Italian Tractor's rotors don't look much different the morning after she'd had a solvol binge!!!!
Two things that would be on my mind are thickness and warpage; then if re-fitted to bike, the pads.
Used to be more common on older race-bikes to 'upgrade' stainless rotors to cast; Pads for stainless rotors are softer, because the metal isn't; so using soft pads for stainless discs on cast would see the brakes very grabby and chewed up in short time.
Going the other way, and using harder pads for cast discs on stainless discs would result in wooden brakes, and rider applying gross lever pressure to get some effect, and often the discs warping and getting scored.
Was most often observed on things like air-cooled RD's and stuff with folk mixing and matching TZ race bits, and the common one of 'upgrading' wire wheels for cast, but keeping the wires to mount 'wets', whilst slicks or race tyres fitted to the mags; but leaving whatever discs were on the wheels, so that the discs got mis-matched when swapped.
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

skatefreak wrote:
If they are not pitted and its just surface rust then I would whack them on and sheepishly ride up and down the street and 'wear' them back in...


Don't do this.

You need an angle grinder and some poly paint removing pads like these.

Clean off ALL the corrosion especially around the mounting bolt holes. If you leave corrosion here it could cause the discs to warp when they heat up.

They look like low chrome content discs so are prone to corrosion.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 18:28 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
If they are stainless discs.....


They don't look very stainless Smile
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 18:59 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

R1stu wrote:

Its from the little 350 project im working on. I will take the grinder to them later and see.


A grinder! You savage, a wire brush and elbow grease will do a whole lot less damage.
One slip with the grinder and they will be no good.

Remember, pics or it didn’t happen Wink
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:17 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy 1/2 a kg of citric acid crystals off ebay. Fill bucket with boiling water, dissolve as much of the citric as possible and dunk the discs in for a couple of hours. All the rust will be gone leaving a black film which will wipe right off.
Citric acid is totally safe (it's a food additive) and non-toxic so pour it down the drain when you're done.

Done this week: two small lathe chucks 90 minutes in a bucket of hot citric acid solution. Here's the before and after pics.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 21:32 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
Teflon-Mike wrote:
If they are stainless discs.....


They don't look very stainless Smile


Stainless steel does corrode. It is just more ''resistant'' to corrosion, not immune to it. Thumbs Up
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 21:59 - 17 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

RhynoCZ wrote:
Riejufixing wrote:

They don't look very stainless Smile


Stainless steel does corrode. It is just more ''resistant'' to corrosion, not immune to it. Thumbs Up


Do *you* think they're stainless steel?
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R1stu
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PostPosted: 14:02 - 20 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have brought new discs with the eBay voucher, however here are some pics.

To me there looks like too much pitting.

https://i.imgur.com/aSYLaNt.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qrJ9uQa.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ivR5BXI.jpg
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R1stu
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PostPosted: 14:03 - 20 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

pepperami wrote:
R1stu wrote:

Its from the little 350 project im working on. I will take the grinder to them later and see.


A grinder! You savage, a wire brush and elbow grease will do a whole lot less damage.
One slip with the grinder and they will be no good.

Remember, pics or it didn’t happen Wink


I used a flappy paddle sander on it! Wink
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 17:41 - 20 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

R1stu wrote:
I have brought new discs with the eBay voucher, however here are some pics.

To me there looks like too much pitting.


Yes they are very very very badly pitted there are even 40 circular pits on each disk that have gone right through the metal!!!!

I'd use them.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 17:52 - 20 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

R1stu wrote:
I have brought new discs with the eBay voucher, however here are some pics.

To me there looks like too much pitting.

https://i.imgur.com/aSYLaNt.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qrJ9uQa.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ivR5BXI.jpg


Those discs are not new. They are 'other' discs.

They have been 'cleaned' using Scotchbrite pad or similar.

I can see from the way the very shiny areas around any of the holes.
Those pads are shit for machined surfaces. I would not use on a brake disc. I would prefer a lathe, milling machine or a surface grinder.
The issue with Scotchbrite pads is that the abrasive doesn't move in a single direction. It dips into holes and is lifted up by the edges. That wears any of the edges in the path of the abrasive.

We stopped using them to clean off cylinder blocks, heads and spacer plates due to sealing issues. Smile

A flat plate sander would do the job better. As the abrasive is supported properly.

Work up the grades to get to the finish. There is a correct grade of abrasive to use to 'condition' a brake disc so you don't break it. Smile

The pitting is probably just the casting process. Maybe not a high quality foundry cast them and the pour was not pure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lM_Ravhnn3s
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Last edited by MCN on 18:00 - 20 Aug 2018; edited 1 time in total
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:57 - 20 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Buy 1/2 a kg of citric acid crystals off ebay. Fill bucket with boiling water, dissolve as much of the citric as possible and dunk the discs in for a couple of hours. All the rust will be gone leaving a black film which will wipe right off.
Citric acid is totally safe (it's a food additive) and non-toxic so pour it down the drain when you're done.


White vinegar (non-brewed condiment) also does a bang-up job and people don't think you're a drug dealer when you get tightly-wrapped 1kg bags of fine white powder delivered to work.
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tom_e
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PostPosted: 19:14 - 20 Aug 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
R1stu wrote:
I have brought new discs with the eBay voucher, however here are some pics.

To me there looks like too much pitting.

https://i.imgur.com/aSYLaNt.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qrJ9uQa.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ivR5BXI.jpg


Those discs are not new. They are 'other' discs.

They have been 'cleaned' using Scotchbrite pad or similar.

I can see from the way the very shiny areas around any of the holes.
Those pads are shit for machined surfaces. I would not use on a brake disc. I would prefer a lathe, milling machine or a surface grinder.
The issue with Scotchbrite pads is that the abrasive doesn't move in a single direction. It dips into holes and is lifted up by the edges. That wears any of the edges in the path of the abrasive.

We stopped using them to clean off cylinder blocks, heads and spacer plates due to sealing issues. Smile

A flat plate sander would do the job better. As the abrasive is supported properly.

Work up the grades to get to the finish. There is a correct grade of abrasive to use to 'condition' a brake disc so you don't break it. Smile

The pitting is probably just the casting process. Maybe not a high quality foundry cast them and the pour was not pure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lM_Ravhnn3s


Those discs are not the new ones he bought but the ones from the first post.
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