Sluggish acceleration - clutch cable or something else?

[Johanna]

Hey folks,

Keeping in mind I haven't been riding long, I think I may have a clutch issue, or it may be something different, or maybe it's totally normal. My bike is a CBR650F with just over 1000 miles.

When I set off from having been parked up, I sometimes find that the bike won't accelerate properly in first gear. If I apply more throttle I get the same power as before, but the bike will suddenly jump forward and start functioning normally.

If I were to guess, I would say the clutch cable could be sticky and the bike could be behaving as if I still have the clutch in, then releasing after a few seconds. Does this sound likely to those of you with more experience?

It doesn't always happen so I can't reproduce the effect to look in to it, and when it does happen I'm usually concentrating 100% on what is going on with other traffic as I bimble forward slowly.

It only happens when I first set off. Never after the first minute or so.

I assume other people have come across this and have some idea what could be happening. If it's the clutch cable then I could try adjusting the tension or cleaning and lubing it. This has been happening on and off since I got the bike. I thought it was my riding at first, but I'm starting to think it's something else.

[Riejufixing]

What happens to the revs when this happens?

[iooi]

[Johanna]

[Evil Hans]

That to me sounds more like an issue with the brakes binding rather than the clutch slipping.
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Triumph Sprint ST 1050. And it's Red.

[Riejufixing]

If you have clutch slip, the engine revs. increase in a particular gear without a corresponding increase in road speed (but there may be some increase in speed). If it feels as though you've suddenly dumped the clutch, and there's a big jolt forward and drop in revs., it could be a problem with the actuating mechanism as you've described. Cable being pinched, excessively curved somewhere, dry....

[Nobby the Bastard]

[Johanna]

[VultureZ1300]

Firing on all cylinders? Maybe one or more cylinders are a bit slow in getting going when cold. Unlikely on a new bike but not impossible either.
Just a thought.

[el_oso]

check that the cable isn't getting snagged would be the first thing I'd check. What's the slack like at the bar end?

is it like the video below?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DP2Qea8KLAc
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Duke 390
Previous: '05 XR125L | '96 XJ600S Diversion |'05 Suzuki GSXR1000 | '05 Honda CBR125-R | '97 YZF 600R Thundercat | '11 Honda CBR250
Car: Jeep Wrangler 4.0L

[andym]

[Nobby the Bastard]

You can't push the bike before you start it to see if the brake is seized?

You in a wheelchair or have so other frailty that prevents you or are you just a little simple?
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[Johanna]

[Teflon-Mike]

We 'tend' to unconsciously operate the front brake on start up, when we first get on the bike and grip the bars.

We tend NOT to subconsciously 'flex' the back brake at start up in the same way.

And, especially if a DAS trained newb taught to drag and slip and do slow-speed maneuvers on the back brake, good chance that you are noticing this on worx car-park, after starting, after move off, after you have first used back brake, and its a bit 'sticky'.

More modern brake pads use stintered metals instead of asbestos. They can 'stick' to discs when parked up... either electroferitic reaction between dissimilar metals of pad and disc (more prone in damp) or pads being 'sticky' when used and up to temp, then cooling like heat-glue.... ish!

Honda floating calipers also notorious for sticky float pins.

Good chance the bike needs a thorough clean and grease, and attension paid to those bits like the caliper mounts, and the rear rod and lever pivots both ends.

BUT also good chance that it IS just that the bike isn't warm and oils still thick, and like brake-pads/discs, clutch-plates are still are a tad glued together until the bikes properly warm and oil thinned, and the plates are up to temp and un-gummed by a bit of work.

Cable? Is a potential in there, and is oft over-looked both for clean/lube/adjust... but one of many possible suspects, and not necessarily top of the list.

Do some basic maintenance; beyond an oil change.
Watch your start-up/warm-up procedure.. and DO flex brakes doing the 'pre-ride-checks' you were taught on CBT.
See how it goes.
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My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'

[Johanna]

[rpsmith79]

Was the bike bought new, or from a dealer, if so, just take it back and get them to look at it
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Current Bike: Honda CG125 ES4 // Honda CB600FS Hornet // Triumph Street Triple R

[Riejufixing]

I don't think warming up explains what I understand your problem to be, which is: "I start it, I get on it and move off normally, it's OK up to a low speed of walking/running pace, then it accelerates slowly and sluggishly until all of a sudden the power comes in with a bang". Is that right? Warming up for 20-30 seconds is the most you should need, and no blipping the throttle.

As said up there^ perhaps take it to the dealer and ask them,as it's a new machine.

[Riejufixing]

[BusterGonads]

[Johanna]

[Kentol750]

Mrs K has cb1000r, when warming up it runs for about 2 mins at higher revs (automatic choke) depending on outside temp. If it's been sat out all day it still runs at almost twice idle speed for a good minute or so, before you hear an obvious decrease in revs back to normal idle speed.
If it does this and problem persists, back to dealer.
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Some bikes.

[MCN]

I didnt read all post but agree with Tefers.
I thought is nothing else is amiss with the machine (and the vagaries of the thread doesn't confirm that) then it is rider error.
Keep your plate of meat off the back brake.
Try to set-off like that.

Or are you Trolling the Trollers?
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.

[Johanna]

[Kentol750]

Just from that description above, I'd suggest the clutch is slipping. Your new bike should be still running in, first service done? If so just take it in to dealer. Don't leave it if you keep having a recurring problem. That's why you bought it from a reputable motorcycle dealer, for the back up they have to give you under the makers warranty!
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Some bikes.

[MCN]

If possible nip into a dealer or bike shop with the beast and plead diminished mental capacity. They will feel sorry/take pity and have a wee shoofti at the bike for you.
If they charge for that service name and shame.

If you were chatty with the place you trained to pass the test drop in there. Those folk are aye far too willing to help out, if someone is available and they're not all out grooming/training newbeez.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.