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Sluggish acceleration - clutch cable or something else?

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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 17:20 - 05 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

650F, 1000 miles, back to dealer yo?
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iooi
Super Spammer



Joined: 14 Jan 2007
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 05 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Johanna wrote:


I set off just fine.
The problem starts a short distance after I've pulled out onto the road. As I start accelerating I hit a "ceiling" where the bike stops accelerating.

the revs were increasing, but not as much as expected. I changed to a higher gear and got to 30mph that way.

Maybe if I was trying to reach 60 I would find the same in all the gears. I don't know..


So it's a 650 and you have to change upto get to 30mph......
That would be about 5K revs in 1st.....

So how many rev's you got on the clock before it stops getting faster?

SEE POST 3......

Or stop posting a load of rubbish... Rolling Eyes
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Johanna
Nova Slayer



Joined: 21 Jul 2018
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PostPosted: 08:23 - 06 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Evidence is mounting for it being a case of me not warming the bike enough. (I'm still quite inexperienced).

Yesterday I warmed the bike for much longer before leaving work. No problem at all.

This morning, when the roads were empty, I left with practically zero warm up to see if it would happen again. It did. The bike goes to about 3000 rpm, then as I twist the throttle the revs increase only a little bit.
Change to second gear. Revs increase to 3000, then "stick" at that point again, increasing only slightly if I push it.

Remember I know nothing. What are the symptoms of a bike being too cold? Is this what would normally happen?

For those telling me to take the bike to a dealer - yes, thanks, I hear you, but I want to rule out my own incompetence before I waste their time and mine. Please also remember this is only a very minor "glitch". I could live with it, but if I can figure it out and either change my habits or repair something then that would be good.
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rpsmith79
World Chat Champion



Joined: 31 Jan 2017
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PostPosted: 08:37 - 06 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know this specific bike, but has it done it's break in mileage yet, and if so, has it been back for it's 1st service

Reason i ask, is i read a review for a new bike recently (can't remember the bike) but from the factory, it had a lower rev limit set for the break in period (to avoid a hard break in), and on 1st service (after the break in period) this limit is then removed

Could this be the case with this particular bike?
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Johanna
Nova Slayer



Joined: 21 Jul 2018
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PostPosted: 09:24 - 06 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

rpsmith79 wrote:
I don't know this specific bike, but has it done it's break in mileage yet, and if so, has it been back for it's 1st service

Reason i ask, is i read a review for a new bike recently (can't remember the bike) but from the factory, it had a lower rev limit set for the break in period (to avoid a hard break in), and on 1st service (after the break in period) this limit is then removed

Could this be the case with this particular bike?

It has had its first service, but yes, it could be that it's limited within a certain time of starting up, intended for the bedding in period, and that the limiter wasn't removed. I had the service done locally rather than by Honda so maybe they missed this.

I'll ask the dealer.
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el_oso
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 May 2008
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PostPosted: 11:15 - 06 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

On a modern bike with an automatic 'choke' the bike should automatically compensate for ambient/internal temperature.

Take it back to the dealer and ask them. The bike shouldn't bog down.
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Previous: '05 XR125L | '96 XJ600S Diversion |'05 Suzuki GSXR1000 | '05 Honda CBR125-R | '97 YZF 600R Thundercat | '11 Honda CBR250
Car: Jeep Wrangler 4.0L
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MCN
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 03:57 - 08 Sep 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only limiter on new vehicles is the mentality of the operator.
I have a bike that has a bright lamp to 'suggest' that a higher gear should be selected. Factory setting is around 7000rpm.
Once run-in this can be changed (by the operator via the on-board settings function) to a higher setting.
This is the only 'restriction' I have ever heard of.
Apart from the sticker on the fuel tank and the words of caution from the sales bod.

Modern stuff is made to not 'really' need running in.
Old stuff (pre-1970s' was not made as precisely so needed a running in period to let stuff work off any roughness and fit better.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.
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