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m1tch |
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m1tch Nitrous Nuisance
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linuxyeti |
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linuxyeti World Chat Champion
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Posted: 16:23 - 26 Sep 2018 Post subject: |
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Yep, for carb, basically, you're solely looking at 2nd hand.. As for a new 125, you'd be pretty much better to look at some of the chinese bikes, on offer from Lexmoto, Sinnis, AJS, Mash in particular. For the most part you can ignore the scaremongering around owning a chinese bike, simply look after it, as you should any bike, and the majority will probably rust/rot less than a CBF125.
Or.. if you're feeling flush, get a Zero S 11Kw bike.. Well, worth considering..
https://www.zeromotorcycles.com/eu/11kw
I would have suggested Evoke Urban, but things appear to have goine quiet, in the UK at least. ____________________ Beware what photos you upload, or link to on here, especially if you have family members on them |
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The Shaggy D.A. |
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The Shaggy D.A. Super Spammer
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Posted: 16:46 - 26 Sep 2018 Post subject: |
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Both my YBRs were FI, they converted me from carb. No hassle, start on the button regardless of weather. Looking at getting another for my now shorter commute, couldn't get them to go below 100MPG with the throttle pinned and my fat arse on it. ____________________ Chances are quite high you are not in my Monkeysphere, and I don't care about you. Don't take it personally.
Currently : Royal Enfield 350 Meteor
Previously : CB100N > CB250RS > XJ900F > GT550 > GPZ750R/1000RX > AJS M16 > R100RT > Bullet 500 > CB500 > LS650P > Bullet Electra X & YBR125 > Bullet 350 "Superstar" & YBR125 Custom > Royal Enfield Classic 500 Despatch Limited Edition (28 of 200) & CB Two-Fifty Nighthawk > ER5 |
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DrDonnyBrago |
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DrDonnyBrago World Chat Champion
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Riejufixing |
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Riejufixing World Chat Champion
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m1tch |
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m1tch Nitrous Nuisance
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DrDonnyBrago |
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BusterGonads |
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BusterGonads Trackday Trickster
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Posted: 12:04 - 27 Sep 2018 Post subject: |
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m1tch wrote: | I am not looking for a new bike as my first bike, would rather a carb bike as its simpler with less to go wrong - aware that it might need some adjusting which is fine. The bike will be used as just a ride around on a nice day sort of bike rather than daily commuting etc.
Looking at the CG125, looks like the later model had disc brakes on the front rather than drum, it also looks like they stopped making it in 2008 BECAUSE it was carb and so didn't meet emissions etc which is why newer 125s are FI.
I don't have an issue with getting a slightly older bike, just more of a case of getting spares for consumables and engine rebuild parts - I gues the CG125 won't have an issue getting spares for quite a while! Sounds like I might be leaning towards getting a CG125 as its got slightly more 'classic' styling vs the YBR125 which is more modern - although seems to have 80s style blade wheels. |
i snapped up an 11000 mile CG125 last may and have put nearly 4000 miles on it since. I love it, mainly because it is completely reliable and I have every reason to think it will continue in that vein as long as I change the oil and give it basic maintenance. Mine had had a hardish life as an all weather commuter in its early life and then had been 'reconditioned' by someone who didn't know how to torque up the engine bolts after taking it out to repaint the frame. This meant that when I first had it, it vibed like a sex toy on steroids and it took me a while to realise this wasn't the way it should be. Thing about an older bike with some miles on it is that it may have been neglected and may have had bodger mechanics 'sorting' it out. But the CG is a little star and will probably have no long lasting ill effects from this. You have to take it for what it is though - a very reliable commuter with simple needs. I joined a Facebook group for CG owners and got thoroughly sick of idiots asking about how to tune it for speed and others hacking lumps off the bike and calling it a Cafe Racer. this usually meant putting a stupid exhaust on and removing the air cleaner and then - worst of all, fucking up the carb so it wouldn't run properly to accommodate the 'mods'.
If you look on ebay there are some without massive miles on them but they may well be hundreds of miles away from you. There are always bike couriers if you are prepared to take the risk of buying without seeing it in person. I won't be parting with mine in a hurry even if I buy a bigger bike for faster roads than the little cg can cope with. In town you can't beat 'em for commuting or learning on, and on the quiet country lanes they are a joy. Mine has been getting 120 mpg on mixed roads and on long gentle 50 mph runs it will deliver 129mpg. It is now smooth and quiet and just does the job it was built for very well. I am now using fully synthetic oil and after a thousand miles it is still honey coloured. I used to change every thousand miles, but I might take that to 1500 with this oil.
As an alternative there are plenty of CBF125s for similar money, but they are a bit rust prone and have stupid plastic fairings on them which make maintenance a lot slower than it should be. The CG makes doing teh tappets a fifteen minute job. Not so on the CBF or other plastic clad bikes. Plastic shells all over a sub 70mph bike is a very retrograde step in my opinion.
Last edited by BusterGonads on 12:22 - 27 Sep 2018; edited 1 time in total |
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Pjay |
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Pjay World Chat Champion
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m1tch |
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m1tch Nitrous Nuisance
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Posted: 12:43 - 27 Sep 2018 Post subject: |
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BusterGonads wrote: | m1tch wrote: | I am not looking for a new bike as my first bike, would rather a carb bike as its simpler with less to go wrong - aware that it might need some adjusting which is fine. The bike will be used as just a ride around on a nice day sort of bike rather than daily commuting etc.
Looking at the CG125, looks like the later model had disc brakes on the front rather than drum, it also looks like they stopped making it in 2008 BECAUSE it was carb and so didn't meet emissions etc which is why newer 125s are FI.
I don't have an issue with getting a slightly older bike, just more of a case of getting spares for consumables and engine rebuild parts - I gues the CG125 won't have an issue getting spares for quite a while! Sounds like I might be leaning towards getting a CG125 as its got slightly more 'classic' styling vs the YBR125 which is more modern - although seems to have 80s style blade wheels. |
i snapped up an 11000 mile CG125 last may and have put nearly 4000 miles on it since. I love it, mainly because it is completely reliable and I have every reason to think it will continue in that vein as long as I change the oil and give it basic maintenance. Mine had had a hardish life as an all weather commuter in its early life and then had been 'reconditioned' by someone who didn't know how to torque up the engine bolts after taking it out to repaint the frame. This meant that when I first had it, it vibed like a sex toy on steroids and it took me a while to realise this wasn't the way it should be. Thing about an older bike with some miles on it is that it may have been neglected and may have had bodger mechanics 'sorting' it out. But the CG is a little star and will probably have no long lasting ill effects from this. You have to take it for what it is though - a very reliable commuter with simple needs. I joined a Facebook group for CG owners and got thoroughly sick of idiots asking about how to tune it for speed and others hacking lumps off the bike and calling it a Cafe Racer. this usually meant putting a stupid exhaust on and removing the air cleaner and then - worst of all, fucking up the carb so it wouldn't run properly to accommodate the 'mods'.
If you look on ebay there are some without massive miles on them but they may well be hundreds of miles away from you. There are always bike couriers if you are prepared to take the risk of buying without seeing it in person. I won't be parting with mine in a hurry even if I buy a bigger bike for faster roads than the little cg can cope with. In town you can't beat 'em for commuting or learning on, and on the quiet country lanes they are a joy. Mine has been getting 120 mpg on mixed roads and on long gentle 50 mph runs it will deliver 129mpg. It is now smooth and quiet and just does the job it was built for very well. I am now using fully synthetic oil and after a thousand miles it is still honey coloured. I used to change every thousand miles, but I might take that to 1500 with this oil.
As an alternative there are plenty of CBF125s for similar money, but they are a bit rust prone and have stupid plastic fairings on them which make maintenance a lot slower than it should be. The CG makes doing teh tappets a fifteen minute job. Not so on the CBF or other plastic clad bikes. Plastic shells all over a sub 70mph bike is a very retrograde step in my opinion. |
Thanks for your input on this, makes me feel a bit better about the CG125, did yours have the disc brakes on the front or the earlier drum brakes?
I will be looking to do a few tweaks to it at some point which is why I am looking at carb bikes as they can be adjusted for anything I do with it (unlike the fuel injected bikes). But its a pushrod 125cc at the end of the day its not going to be very powerful for top end, would probably look to gear it for acceleration if needed - anyway with a CBT its limited to how much power you are legally allowed anyway!
I would mainly be riding it around town and country lanes to be honest, won't be a national speed limit commuting sort of bike so sounds great and would be doing all the maintenance myself. |
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m1tch Nitrous Nuisance
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BusterGonads Trackday Trickster
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
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Posted: 15:21 - 27 Sep 2018 Post subject: |
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Hmmm first posts 3 years ago, asking about Chinky 125's, and threatening CBT then.... a year later, query on building a GXR Go-Kart.... there DO appear to be tendencies of the serial fantasist here.
Oh-Kay.... presuming you will do anything THIS time around.... the BIKE is the last thing on the list you need to get a bike on the road.
Top of the list is that CBT you haven't bothered to get round to doing in the last three years..... CBT is the FIRST LESSON... Compulsory-Basic-Training... it is NOT a test, nor is it a licence... it's the very basics the mere essentials to get you started, and any-one that wants a bike on the public road in the UK has to do one.... so that should be at the top of the list.
For CBT, you dont need very much, just some common sense, some warm sensible clothing and probably a packed lunch. Go do, go learn, almost ALL your questions will be answered... only thing you might want to buy before-hand is your own crash-hat and gloves.
Assuming you were 16 and not old enough to get any bike when you first started asking about Sinis offerings, and tuning GSXR engines with nitreouse and turbo's to put in a go-kart.... you would now be at least 20 ish, probably older, this gives some choices over what licence you might test fror.
At 17, you can only take tests for an A1, 125cc only, licence.
At 19, you can take tests for an A2, any cc 45bhp, licence
At 24, you can take tests for a Ride-what-you-like, unrestricted 'A' licence.
CBT, in the UK, legally allows you to wobble out on your own before passing tests on 'L' plates, notional;ly so you can go 'learn', not so you can dodge tests. A1 tests on your own 125 can be self-booked for under £150, and can be a launch-pad for higher licences.
A2 and A licences beg a DAS course, typically around £1000 and five days of training to test standard, usually with tests included; the training and test bike provided by the school in course fees.
IF you are old enough to test for either A2 or A, then the one-stop-shop 'package' to a licence offered by a school is probably the easiest and most economical way to a licence.
Going it alone on CBT and L's on a 125, is the school of hard knocks. CBT gives you teh scantest of know-how to get started and you probabloy wont remember half of it the next morning; you then go it alone and learn by doing, or more likely NOT doing, which on a bike is falling off... which hurts and can get rather expensive, and doesn't teach you much but falling off hurts.... you have to figure out why you fell off and what to do different not to do it again! And then! Work out what an examiner wants to see you doing..... to get a licence.
Being taught what to do right, right at the start, then can save a lot of hurt, and a lot of money, and IF a higher licence is something you aspire to anyway, that training to get that licence will probably have to be paid for at some point, so may as well get it sooner rather than later.
UNTIL THEN.... what bike questions are pretty academic...
There's 60 million people in the UK. Over half of them have a car licence, and there are actually more cars for them to drive than there are folk with licences to drive them, around 30million cars. There are only about 1million motorcycles of all capacities and styles in the UK. Half of them are under 125cc. Two thirds of them are twist-and-go scooters. That means that there are only about 150,000 125cc motorcycles in the length and bredth of the country...
The average 125cc motorcycle has an anticipated service life of around 50,ooo miles, or 7 years, and in the hands of the learners and commuters that tend to buy them they tend not to survive well.
The Honda CG125 has not been sold in this country for over a decade, whilst Euro-4 emmissions regs for C&U have significantly 'killed' both air-cooled and carburated motorcycles in the last decade...
The CG is held in inflated high regard as a 'cult' bike, like a Volts-waggen beetle, and prices tend to be disporportionally high, whilst the standard of bikes tends to be about as low as you would expect any 125cc learner-legal that has spent a decade or two past its sell by date being thrashed and crashed and bodged to oblivion by owners who believe that 'low' maintenance is 'no' maintenence, and likely are as inept at maintaining them as they are at riding them, and buying a 'cheap' 125 to start with are loath to spend any money on the thing that dont make it shinier.
Or ideas of 'tuning for speed'... which is rather laughable; CG makes about 2/3 the legal limit for an A1 licence, you could chuck huge amounts of time money and engineering know-how at one, even adding those turbo's and nitreouse oxide kits you are fond of, and STILL barely breach learner limits, and IF power is that important, REALLY you picked the wrong bike! A CG just aint it, and pigging about with pipes and carbs and stuff, really will NOT do a lot to make it any faster.... less reliable probably, but not a lot else.
BUT... there are barely 150,ooo 125's of any type in the country. Of them, there might be 1ooo that come up for sale in any month, and of them, the majority will be newer machines, under 10 years old, not CG's. If there are ever more than perhaps 50 CG's on sale in any one month I would be surprised.... and even more surprised if many were convenientll local, and if they were still there by the time you got a chance to look, and utterly astounded, if they were taxed, tested and ready to ride.... and absolutely dumfounded, if they were also in a state likely to keep running for a whole year without major work... and I would probably feint if they had a price tag that could in any way be construed a 'bargain'...
Whether the thing had discs of drums, whether it was a kick-start or duel-start, whether it was 6v or 12v, THIS sort of thing would be of very very little concern compared to whether the thing was actually for sale, at sensible mony, and did indeed have an MOT and di in fact work!
In the list of chit to fret about, it REALLY is not something to put even on the list, let alone at the top.
First, you need to learn to ride......
I'll leave that as a stand alone sentence for you to ponder. But, then after you have sorted your first lesson, a 125 MIGHT not even be worth considering further if you do a course for a higher licence, that would allow a bigger bike.
Either way, bedfore that bike, you need somewhere to store it, you need some way of securing it; then to be able to ride it you need that licence, more you need tax and insurance, THEN you need a crash helmet, and riding gear..... THEN a bike might be worth thinking a bit more about....
OR you can wast another four years or so, looking for your ideal CG125, and THEN worrying about the other stuff to find out that actually, 'something' was amis with your 'plan'.
Stop pigging about... GO DO A CBT... get some price lists for lessons and training, and do SOMETHING..... STOP THINKING - START RIDING!!! ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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stevo as b4 |
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stevo as b4 World Chat Champion
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Riejufixing |
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Riejufixing World Chat Champion
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Posted: 16:04 - 27 Sep 2018 Post subject: |
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BusterGonads |
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BusterGonads Trackday Trickster
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Posted: 16:22 - 27 Sep 2018 Post subject: |
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m1tch wrote: |
I don't have an issue with getting a slightly older bike, just more of a case of getting spares for consumables and engine rebuild parts - I gues the CG125 won't have an issue getting spares for quite a while! Sounds like I might be leaning towards getting a CG125 as its got slightly more 'classic' styling vs the YBR125 which is more modern - although seems to have 80s style blade wheels. |
No problem getting spares and they are REALLY cheap.
m1tch wrote: | Thanks for your input on this, makes me feel a bit better about the CG125, did yours have the disc brakes on the front or the earlier drum brakes? |
Drum brakes. Mine is a year 2000 bike. I think the discs came in about three or four years after that. The brakes work adequately, but you need to get a good handful and pull hard if you want to stop fast. I basically think ahead, anticipating and use engine braking a lot.
m1tch wrote: |
I will be looking to do a few tweaks to it at some point which is why I am looking at carb bikes as they can be adjusted for anything I do with it (unlike the fuel injected bikes). But its a pushrod 125cc at the end of the day its not going to be very powerful for top end, would probably look to gear it for acceleration if needed - anyway with a CBT its limited to how much power you are legally allowed anyway! |
Leave it alone. Set the tappets, clean the air cleaner, adjust the chain to spec, change the oil every thousand miles, lube the chain with a small paint brush dipped in SAE80 every tank of fuel, and the bike will do you proud.Mine has an all enclosed chain guard which is a great advantage. the chain looks brand new after 2500 miles and has only needed one minor adjustment in that run time.
If you start f'ing about with carb, exhaust and air cleaner in random attempts to 'tune it up' and I promise you, you will ruin its performance. The bike is a masterpiece of economical motorcycling. 110 - 120 mpg even when you ride it wide open on an A road. Stay standard. Standard exhaust; standard air cleaner and carb settings and unless you are a sumo wrestler, standard gearing and you will get the best out of this bike. i know that Teflon Mike will write a treatise about keeping it in its power band and revving the nuts off it, but you can do that with the gearbox, by dropping a cog and running it wide open in fourth into a headwind at 7500 or 8000 revs. You don't need to take all the gears down to increase acceleration, just hold teh lower gears for longer and change up when you reach the max revs indicated on the speedo. You can even buy a cheap £7 digital tachometer and change at 8000 revs. Honda employed very well qualified engineers when they set the bike up. I just have to laugh at these lads who think they can do better in the back yard. Mind you, fifty years ago I did the same sort of nonsense, I made a ram pipe for a D1 BSA Bantam that I'd bought for four pounds and ten shillings. The idea was that if the air intake was pointing forwards, the air would be rammed in and it would be super charged. This nonsense was accomplished by welding three bits of pipe into a square U bend and attaching it to the carb by some kind of cack that I can't remember after half a century. I didn't know what I didn't know, and neither do most of these lads ruining their little bikes.
if you want a 500cc bike, buy one and not the CG125.
Last edited by BusterGonads on 16:48 - 27 Sep 2018; edited 1 time in total |
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m1tch |
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m1tch Nitrous Nuisance
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Posted: 16:35 - 27 Sep 2018 Post subject: |
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Teflon-Mike wrote: | Hmmm first posts 3 years ago, asking about Chinky 125's, and threatening CBT then.... a year later, query on building a GXR Go-Kart.... there DO appear to be tendencies of the serial fantasist here.
Oh-Kay.... presuming you will do anything THIS time around.... the BIKE is the last thing on the list you need to get a bike on the road.
Top of the list is that CBT you haven't bothered to get round to doing in the last three years..... CBT is the FIRST LESSON... Compulsory-Basic-Training... it is NOT a test, nor is it a licence... it's the very basics the mere essentials to get you started, and any-one that wants a bike on the public road in the UK has to do one.... so that should be at the top of the list.
For CBT, you dont need very much, just some common sense, some warm sensible clothing and probably a packed lunch. Go do, go learn, almost ALL your questions will be answered... only thing you might want to buy before-hand is your own crash-hat and gloves.
Assuming you were 16 and not old enough to get any bike when you first started asking about Sinis offerings, and tuning GSXR engines with nitreouse and turbo's to put in a go-kart.... you would now be at least 20 ish, probably older, this gives some choices over what licence you might test fror.
At 17, you can only take tests for an A1, 125cc only, licence.
At 19, you can take tests for an A2, any cc 45bhp, licence
At 24, you can take tests for a Ride-what-you-like, unrestricted 'A' licence.
CBT, in the UK, legally allows you to wobble out on your own before passing tests on 'L' plates, notional;ly so you can go 'learn', not so you can dodge tests. A1 tests on your own 125 can be self-booked for under £150, and can be a launch-pad for higher licences.
A2 and A licences beg a DAS course, typically around £1000 and five days of training to test standard, usually with tests included; the training and test bike provided by the school in course fees.
IF you are old enough to test for either A2 or A, then the one-stop-shop 'package' to a licence offered by a school is probably the easiest and most economical way to a licence.
Going it alone on CBT and L's on a 125, is the school of hard knocks. CBT gives you teh scantest of know-how to get started and you probabloy wont remember half of it the next morning; you then go it alone and learn by doing, or more likely NOT doing, which on a bike is falling off... which hurts and can get rather expensive, and doesn't teach you much but falling off hurts.... you have to figure out why you fell off and what to do different not to do it again! And then! Work out what an examiner wants to see you doing..... to get a licence.
Being taught what to do right, right at the start, then can save a lot of hurt, and a lot of money, and IF a higher licence is something you aspire to anyway, that training to get that licence will probably have to be paid for at some point, so may as well get it sooner rather than later.
UNTIL THEN.... what bike questions are pretty academic...
There's 60 million people in the UK. Over half of them have a car licence, and there are actually more cars for them to drive than there are folk with licences to drive them, around 30million cars. There are only about 1million motorcycles of all capacities and styles in the UK. Half of them are under 125cc. Two thirds of them are twist-and-go scooters. That means that there are only about 150,000 125cc motorcycles in the length and bredth of the country...
The average 125cc motorcycle has an anticipated service life of around 50,ooo miles, or 7 years, and in the hands of the learners and commuters that tend to buy them they tend not to survive well.
The Honda CG125 has not been sold in this country for over a decade, whilst Euro-4 emmissions regs for C&U have significantly 'killed' both air-cooled and carburated motorcycles in the last decade...
The CG is held in inflated high regard as a 'cult' bike, like a Volts-waggen beetle, and prices tend to be disporportionally high, whilst the standard of bikes tends to be about as low as you would expect any 125cc learner-legal that has spent a decade or two past its sell by date being thrashed and crashed and bodged to oblivion by owners who believe that 'low' maintenance is 'no' maintenence, and likely are as inept at maintaining them as they are at riding them, and buying a 'cheap' 125 to start with are loath to spend any money on the thing that dont make it shinier.
Or ideas of 'tuning for speed'... which is rather laughable; CG makes about 2/3 the legal limit for an A1 licence, you could chuck huge amounts of time money and engineering know-how at one, even adding those turbo's and nitreouse oxide kits you are fond of, and STILL barely breach learner limits, and IF power is that important, REALLY you picked the wrong bike! A CG just aint it, and pigging about with pipes and carbs and stuff, really will NOT do a lot to make it any faster.... less reliable probably, but not a lot else.
BUT... there are barely 150,ooo 125's of any type in the country. Of them, there might be 1ooo that come up for sale in any month, and of them, the majority will be newer machines, under 10 years old, not CG's. If there are ever more than perhaps 50 CG's on sale in any one month I would be surprised.... and even more surprised if many were convenientll local, and if they were still there by the time you got a chance to look, and utterly astounded, if they were taxed, tested and ready to ride.... and absolutely dumfounded, if they were also in a state likely to keep running for a whole year without major work... and I would probably feint if they had a price tag that could in any way be construed a 'bargain'...
Whether the thing had discs of drums, whether it was a kick-start or duel-start, whether it was 6v or 12v, THIS sort of thing would be of very very little concern compared to whether the thing was actually for sale, at sensible mony, and did indeed have an MOT and di in fact work!
In the list of chit to fret about, it REALLY is not something to put even on the list, let alone at the top.
First, you need to learn to ride......
I'll leave that as a stand alone sentence for you to ponder. But, then after you have sorted your first lesson, a 125 MIGHT not even be worth considering further if you do a course for a higher licence, that would allow a bigger bike.
Either way, bedfore that bike, you need somewhere to store it, you need some way of securing it; then to be able to ride it you need that licence, more you need tax and insurance, THEN you need a crash helmet, and riding gear..... THEN a bike might be worth thinking a bit more about....
OR you can wast another four years or so, looking for your ideal CG125, and THEN worrying about the other stuff to find out that actually, 'something' was amis with your 'plan'.
Stop pigging about... GO DO A CBT... get some price lists for lessons and training, and do SOMETHING..... STOP THINKING - START RIDING!!! |
Thanks for all the info, timing wasn't right when I first joined the forum the first time around, few things I wanted to mention now though:
I am 31, over the last 3 years I have sold the flat I owned and have now bought a house with a garage and a garden etc. I did build up a Suzuki SV650 kart but didn't have the space to store it a couple of years back so had to sell it (probably floating around somewhere on Ebay!) and have put a fair number of things on hold over the last few years due to space.
I figured that there wasn't much reason to sort out a CBT previously as once I did go for it I wouldn't really have the space to securely store a bike and keep it maintained etc for me to then get out there and ride.
I currently have a daily driver for the work commute as well as a weekend car I am currently rebuilding the engine to fully forge it internally, then turbocharding to make around 3 times its original stock power.
I am looking at riding as it would be a great skill to learn and something fun to enjoy, I won't be looking to commute on it so not really after top end power, as mentioned more after the classically styled bikes. I also enjoy tinkering and tuning anything mechanical as I find it fun to get that last bit of performance out of something so that its running efficiently - aware that the CG125 engine isn't the best basis!
I know that I can go for a direct access course but would rather start with a 125cc on L plates and build up bike experience before perhaps upgrading further to a larger bike. I guess at this point I can then look around at other bikes and not be restricted to a 125cc learner. I am aware that the CBT is very basic training and the learning really starts when you get out on the road and ride.
Perhaps I should just go with a YBR125 to start with as they are common, on the flip side I would rather have something sitting in the garage that I would look at and go 'yeah I will go for a ride' rather than a more modern looking bike that lacks a bit of character if you know what I mean?
Coming back to the CBT, my local centre's next free bookings are currently in November so I will probably give that a miss until early next year, then I can get a CBT and start riding during the summer, think the wife is also interested in sorting out a CBT as well.
Just seeing whats out there at the moment, aware that the bike part only makes up a small part of the overall scheme and as you mention I might not stick to a 125 anyway but will do to start off with. |
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DrDonnyBrago |
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DrDonnyBrago World Chat Champion
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