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Advice on respraying (DIY)

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loply
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Joined: 24 Mar 2004
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PostPosted: 20:32 - 12 Sep 2004    Post subject: Advice on respraying (DIY) Reply with quote

Anybody ever done a DIY respray of a bike?

I know Ill have to sand the fairings down to a smooth finish, then is primer neccessary (if so how many coats)?

Also, will aerosols be fine or is a decent airbrush strongly recommended?

Once Ive done the paint how many coats of gloss are needed?

I know some of you will grumble that I havent even passed my test yet, yet alone bought the bike, but still Wink Im hoping to respray my zxr400-to-be as so:

https://www.loply.com/loply/ZXR400small.jpg

Ill probably wait 3 months to see if i drop it first (will be a good excuse)

Thanks for any helpfull replies
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TheShaggyDA
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PostPosted: 20:34 - 12 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Black Hammerite, 2 coats.
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Chills
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PostPosted: 22:11 - 12 Sep 2004    Post subject: Re: Advice on respraying (DIY) Reply with quote

loply wrote:
...is primer neccessary (if so how many coats)?
Also, will aerosols be fine or is a decent airbrush strongly recommended? Once Ive done the paint how many coats of gloss are needed...

Did MY bike recently using aerosols and found its all in the preparation.
https://www.chills.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/CBR69.htm

I personally think aerosols CAN give a good finish, if your careful.. but prob not AS good as using a compressor.
If it helps.. I did 3 coats of primer, 4 of paint and 3 of lacquer.

G'luck!

Chris
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loply
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PostPosted: 22:50 - 12 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chills, did the finish come out looking profesional?

Were there any bits that made it obvious it had been sprayed at home?
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Laura
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Joined: 28 Jul 2003
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PostPosted: 23:25 - 12 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

hae you seen the pics of my cbr didn't look to bad.
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Ste
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Joined: 01 Sep 2002
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PostPosted: 23:33 - 12 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did one on my ZX6R, and it came out so well the nose fairing which I'd sprayed sold for more than I bought a nose fairing in original colours on eBay for. Razz Thumbs Up

Yes I did spray my nose fairing on my ZX6R but it was slightly disatourous to say the least. Spend lots and lots of time making it a smooth surface before you start to paint it, and be very careful if you use a sander thing on the end of a drill.

Oh and I did manage to sell the fucked one for more than I bought a mint one for. Razz
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skyline
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Joined: 20 May 2004
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PostPosted: 23:33 - 12 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmm im thinking of doing mine to. does anyone know of like an instuction sort of manual thing to spraying bikes on the net at all?
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ZRX61
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Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 06:18 - 13 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the original paint is in good shape then theres no need for primer. If there are a few scratches then just sand & spot prime those bits.
Rattle can jobs can look great.. the downside is it only lasts about 6 months before it looks like total crap because the paint in the cans is crap to start with... & rattle can clear coat isn't petrol proof so if ya spill fuel on it, it will go yellow... Rattle can paint doesn't *kick off* & remains soluble for it's life, therefore any solvent spill is going to disolve the paint finish, the real stuff (2part urethanes etc) are resistant to solvents to the extent that a rag full of laquer thinner can be left on it for a minute without ANY damage to the finish, try that with rattle can paint & most of it will be on the rag, the rest will be on the floor.
If the fairing is multicoloured then it's probably a good idea to give it a coat of primer/sealer for colour hold out.
By *airbrush* I assume you mean a proffesional paint gun because if you used an actual airbrush it would take about 5 months to finish painting the fairing...
If you use *real* professsional stuff then ya looking at $800-$1000 in equipment & another $400 or so in materials..... Ya can't spray 2 pack stuff without an air supplied respirator & the mask alone will set you back $200 (for a cheap one, mine was $400)... & ya can't hook up the mask to a normal compressor because you'l be breathing carbon monoxide from the oil in the compressor.... the alternative is cyanide poisoning & thats not very pleasent at all... your choice.

As for how many coats:
1 coat of primer/sealer
2 colour coats
2 clear coats.

any questions?
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ZRX61
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Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 06:22 - 13 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

skyline wrote:
hmm im thinking of doing mine to. does anyone know of like an instuction sort of manual thing to spraying bikes on the net at all?

Not a bad book for beginners:
Automotive Paint Handbook by John Pfanstiehl (HP Books)
ISBN 1-55788-291-6
www.penguinputnam.com
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Big Pete
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Joined: 18 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 14:11 - 13 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZRX61 wrote:

If you use *real* professsional stuff then ya looking at $800-$1000 in equipment & another $400 or so in materials..... Ya can't spray 2 pack stuff without an air supplied respirator & the mask alone will set you back $200 (for a cheap one, mine was $400)... & ya can't hook up the mask to a normal compressor because you'l be breathing carbon monoxide from the oil in the compressor.... the alternative is cyanide poisoning & thats not very pleasent at all... your choice.



In the UK you can pick up second hand, good quality spray gear, compressor, filter rigs, gun etc for £250, possibly less.

Good pneumatic suppliers (and some refinishing specialists) do filter rigs suitable for breathing air off of a normal electric compressor, they are fairly price tho, £80-£100 last time I looked. If you do build a rig like this its a good idea to use different quick release connectors on your breathing air lines.

Alternatively, full face masks are available from most industrial safety wear places, they use a screw on filter (of which there are numerous sorts) several types can deal with high concentrations of cyanide gas (much worse than the cyanide catalysts in 2-pack paint). The instructions that come with the filter packs give usage times, these should be followed because the cyanides tend to clog the filter fairly rapidly. Given the cost of filters in the price of a paint job, use a new filter for each job. A full face mask runs £50-£75, do everything filters are £10 each.
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loply
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PostPosted: 20:56 - 13 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

How much would it cost to have a bodyshop do a job like that?


If I sanded the bodywork down before delivering it to them?
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mr jamez
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PostPosted: 21:21 - 13 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not very difficult if it is the same colour going on top, flat the paint back with 1200 grit wet and dry so the whole surface is dull, then build up plenty of thin coats. I did mine with the large tins of halfords spray paint, came out fine.

https://home.btconnect.com/p.leigh/1024/DSC00959.JPG

That is mine afterwards, left the paint to dry for 3 days then put a coat of lacquer over the top. The finish on the large panels is satin and on the smaller bits it is gloss.
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Demonic69
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PostPosted: 22:27 - 13 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chills mate, what paint did you use for that?
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ZRX61
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Joined: 05 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: 22:38 - 13 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

mr jamez wrote:
Not very difficult if it is the same colour going on top, flat the paint back with 1200 grit wet and dry so the whole surface is dull, then build up plenty of thin coats.

1200grit doesn't provide enough key for the any paint going on top of it to stick.. or at least stick permantly....
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Kye
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PostPosted: 22:55 - 13 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can finishes will come out crap generally.

Dusting on laquer in light coats leaves an even worse finish than before! The whole idea is to provide a "wet coat", several dust coats just leave orange peel and satin like finish, which screams rattle can paint job!

If you're painting a flat colour, i.e. non metallic, just wet sand with 2000 grit to remove orange peel, then polish with a cutting polish like T-Cut or Autoglym paint restorer to bring back the shine, just be careful not to go through the paint!
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Chills
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PostPosted: 23:03 - 13 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

loply wrote:
Chills, did the finish come out looking profesional?
Were there any bits that made it obvious it had been sprayed at home?

Yeah.. I think it did...
The bits that were obvious were those I rushed the prepping on. I was running outta time.. rushed and it showed.
Spend as long as you can on the prep work...

Demonic69 wrote:
Chills mate, what paint did you use for that?

Halfords own! Shocked
(Rover steel and somein' silver)
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ZRX61
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PostPosted: 23:12 - 13 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kye wrote:
then polish with a cutting polish like T-Cut

NOOOOooo!!! T Cut is absolutely the LAST thing to use on new paint, ya get better results rubbing it with a handful of rocks.
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Kye
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PostPosted: 23:24 - 13 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well its just the same as Autoglym paint restorer, which has worked fine for me until I started using G3. The 2000grit makes it matt but smooth, then the cutting polish just brings the gloss back
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ZRX61
Victor Meldrew



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PostPosted: 01:58 - 14 Sep 2004    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kye wrote:
Well its just the same as Autoglym paint restorer, which has worked fine for me until I started using G3. The 2000grit makes it matt but smooth, then the cutting polish just brings the gloss back

The stuff you actually want is:
3M #05973 Polishing compound, followed by:
3M #05995 Glaze.
Those are both for machine use & for light coloured paints, the dark paint version has different #'s

If ya don't have a power buffer use 3M #06011 rubbing compound & then a good hand glaze.
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