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Bhud |
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Bhud World Chat Champion
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Confusion |
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Confusion Scooby Slapper
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jaffa90 |
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jaffa90 World Chat Champion
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Teflon-Mike |
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Teflon-Mike tl;dr
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Posted: 01:29 - 12 Oct 2018 Post subject: |
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First, what bike may help.
Next, the center spacert tube, may need to be bunted sideways in an exact orientation to actually get clerance in the opposite outer race.. if you dont luck in on that exact spot, on siome hubs you can be hammering away for ever and a day on the bearing seat in the hub, not the effin bearing... fact you say that drift has peened hopefully suggests you have been bashing it against hardned steel not alloy... b-u-t.....
I dont really like 'pulling' bearings from the inner race , and its needs must to do so. Bashing it out from the inside on the outer race, is by far the 'preffered' ways about, and often it's just a case of finding that rubics-cube puzzle way to line up the center spacer tube to give the gap for the drift to do so... and patience and perseverance to do so....
Tea.. lots and lots of tea.....
Puller shown in e-bay add actually looks like it might be quite useful... for something..... but not in all likelihood a motorbike wheel bearing!
As has been suggested the 'better' tool here would be an internal-diameter claw on a slide hammer.... the claws are small enough and slim enough to go down the hole on small bearings.
The cheap-ish ones on e-bay are, cheap-ish ones on e-bay, and err... well, they aren't entirely useless, but compared to a decent one from a reputable they aren't much cop.. and if you have ever been loaned a Snap-On offering, you know why folk dont like loaning them.... you wont want to give it back, they can be a shear joy to use after cheapo e-bay specials.... but they IS cheap.
One we bought off the bay wasn't 'so' cheap, and deemed a worthy buy as it was too far to go to my old workshop for the borrow, when we were doing Snowie's bludi-guzzi gearbox..... They 'can' work adequately.... but the machining was a joke on our example, and the metal quality even more so! Tool-Hard steel should not be brittle, it should be hard! I had to put a fine diamond dremel disc on a couple of the claws to dress them up as manufacturer hadn't and one, after much swearing on a particularly stubborn bearing just cracked.. not good.... B-U-T, cost less than taking it down local M/C shop to stick under a press, or the 2 gallon of petrol needed for 2 round trips to get a borrow... it did the job.
Thing is, that trying to pull the old bearing out by the inner race; whatever force you need to apply has to go first through the puller claw, which can have peculiarly small 'grip' area, so even when done up effoff tight, it can still pull out under the sort of force needed to pull the whole bearing; then force has to be transmitted through the balls into the outer race... and why would you be trying to take it out? Yup cos the balls and races worn, so they is no longer all that 'tight'.. so even if the puller claw dont 'give' on you, you can end up pulling the inner race out, getting a shower of balls.. and still being left with stubborn outer to try tackle.... and back to the old fashioned drift and hammer, though hopefully with a bit more space to see the hole for you to hammer through!
Best of British with it!... but have a good shuftie at how the bearing spacer tube might alternatively be slid asside, before applying too much brute force and expletives! ____________________ My Webby'Tef's-tQ, loads of stuff about my bikes, my Land-Rovers, and the stuff I do with them!
Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?' |
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temeluchus |
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temeluchus World Chat Champion
Joined: 01 Oct 2008 Karma :
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Posted: 04:08 - 12 Oct 2018 Post subject: Re: Very stubborn front wheel bearing |
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That little puller is excellent. I used it to yank out a thoroughly seized in bearing on my reliant after a very expensive slide hammer tyle puller had resoundingly failed to get it out. ____________________ Some shite cruiser. Now with guns and FREEDOM! |
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barrkel |
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barrkel World Chat Champion
Joined: 30 Jul 2012 Karma :
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Posted: 10:09 - 12 Oct 2018 Post subject: |
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I will second the suggestion of application of heat with a hot air gun - not blowtorch or anything like that, a hot air gun, as sold for removing wallpaper and the like.
I've pulled dozens of bearings from blind holes with slide hammers, and even when it seems like you've got a decent grip of the bearing, it often won't shift without a bunch of heat. ____________________ Bikes: S1000R, SH350; Exes: Vity 125, PS125, YBR125, ER6f, VFR800, Brutale 920, CB600F, SH300x4
Best road ever ridden: www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2MhNxUEYtQ |
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dydey90 |
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dydey90 World Chat Champion
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Bhud |
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Bhud World Chat Champion
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bikenut |
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bikenut World Chat Champion
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bikenut |
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bikenut World Chat Champion
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Riejufixing |
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Riejufixing World Chat Champion
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colink98 |
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colink98 Could Be A Chat Bot
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Kawasaki Jimbo |
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Kawasaki Jimbo World Chat Champion
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Bhud |
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Bhud World Chat Champion
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Posted: 21:18 - 12 Oct 2018 Post subject: |
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Thanks again for all the suggestions. I concur, a Rawl bolt (had to search Youtube to get an idea about what it does) would be my best chance at a solution. In fact that sounds like a really great idea. I don't think I'll need a heavy hammer, as, thinking about it, the issue is that the punch skims off the lip and isn't transferring the force from the hammer in the first place. A plate welded to the opposite side of the bearing would also, definitely, work, but I can't weld and this isn't the time to learn.
The spacer really is very tight between the seated bearings, so shifting it to one side is a bit of a tall order unless you have the right tools. Weighing up my options at this stage, it looks like a toss-up between buying a new 8-inch pin-punch set, or a single Rawl bolt (maybe M10 sized). |
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Islander |
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Islander World Chat Champion
Joined: 05 Aug 2012 Karma :
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Posted: 21:28 - 12 Oct 2018 Post subject: |
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I have one of these - it's long enough to reach the bearing and leaves enough free length to get a decent clout on the end. The end is square and will stay on the bearing lip pretty well.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000GAOAZU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use a standard 22oz ball pein hammer to drift them out and the combination of hammer and drift hasn't failed me yet.
Knock the spacer as far across as you can, get the drift on the exposed bearing and give it a good clout. Then knock the spacer across to give you access to the opposite side and repeat.
Don't forget to clean up the raised edges of any gouges you may make on the inner of the spacer with a round file or similar.
Last edited by Islander on 21:30 - 15 Oct 2018; edited 1 time in total |
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Nobby the Bastard |
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Nobby the Bastard Harley Gaydar
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Suntan Sid |
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Suntan Sid World Chat Champion
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Posted: 23:40 - 12 Oct 2018 Post subject: |
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I can confirm the rawl bolt method does work!
Still have half a dozen different sized rawl bolts in my tool box just in case! ____________________ "Everybody needs money, that's why they call it money!" |
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bladerunner |
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bladerunner World Chat Champion
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bikenut |
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bikenut World Chat Champion
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 5 years, 168 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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