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Steering head: taper rollers, press or mix and ??match??

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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 20:10 - 30 Oct 2018    Post subject: Steering head: taper rollers, press or mix and ??match?? Reply with quote

Well, I've got a used bottom yoke (Rieju RS3) with stem that's got a taper roller inner on it. On these 125s, the bearings are real sods to get off, being hard up against the light alloy of the yoke and tight as hell, and I normally resort to pressing the whole stem 5mm or so through the bearing AND alloy yoke, then pressing it back in to the yoke, which leaves a gap between the bearing and the yoke, so I can get a puller on it.

I don't like doing this, from an "engineering" point of view.

Neither do I like the idea of keeping the inner race, and using it with an unpaired outer in the headstock.

Which is the lesser of two evils?
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 21:12 - 30 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

HTH
https://chocolatecakeforthebrain.files.wordpress.com/2015/07/lesser-of-two-weevils1.jpg
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 21:44 - 30 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ugh. I was thinking of that when I posted that line! It's good to draw a big one on a bit of paper, tell whoever you're dealing with "That's a weevil", then drawing a little one, and ask them what it is.

"The lesser of two weevils", urgh, groan, thud, ROFL!


EDIT: What you have there is the grain weevil, Sitophilus granarius. Extra marks if you can fit a Colorado beetle in to the forums!
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 21:55 - 30 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm, surface damage to the yoke would be characterised as cosmetic unless I'm missing something. Can it not be released with fire, puller (no gap huh?) or dremmel to slice it off the shaft?

If you're replacing bearings you want them to be in the best possible condition.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 22:03 - 30 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
Hmmm, surface damage to the yoke would be characterised as cosmetic unless I'm missing something. Can it not be released with fire, puller (no gap huh?) or dremmel to slice it off the shaft?

If you're replacing bearings you want them to be in the best possible condition.


There's no gap whatsoever, and the outer diameter of the inner race has a square (ground!) shoulder. Sodding things. I belted a 3/8" cold chisel into the non-existant gap on one yoke, didn't do that again, it shattered the chisel and took a lump out of the alloy.

I suppose it might be possible to destroy the cage, "Dremmel" a slot in the iner race or get at it with an angle grinder t'other way, and whack it with a chisel to crack it off, but, well, yuck!

Mmm. Angle grinder.

However, the inner race is OK, so I'd save money and time using it. Hm. It may not be the same make/spec/angle though. Blast.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 01:42 - 31 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pfft easy peasy
( am I the only on who gets pitchers on their interwebs?
See? nice compact 28K file size anorl, not 7 mega byte monstrosities)

https://imgur.com/X00SK7f.jpg

Fuck dremel, weak as piss and it would take an age plus loads of
those wee discs.
I'd get a 1mm cutting disc in the old angel grinder
clamp the rollers to keep em from spinning round
then make 1 or 2 easy does it angled cuts to get the rollers and cage off
wear eye protection, glubs n shit too or course!

Pay attention to and try to follow the circumference of the stem
whilst cutting to avoid serious damage to it

Next For the inner some more easy does it angled cuts, try to stop before
cutting into the stem, but a few wee scratches wont destroy it
you can buff it out later with oily wet and dry.

If you think you may want to remove the bearngs again in the
distant future you could cut two opposed channels for a drift/pin punch to run in from underneath when the bearing is off
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 08:01 - 31 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd go the heat way but the concentrated kind.
Do you have access to a decent mig welder? Perhaps a tig one? Not to weld things on but to give bursts of concentrated heat which might allow enough expansion to provide removal.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 10:53 - 31 Oct 2018    Post subject: bearing Reply with quote

Can the op post a good picture of the bottom of the bearing where it butts up to the yoke please.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 11:38 - 31 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:


Fuck dremel, weak as piss and it would take an age plus loads of
those wee discs.


It would take longer than the Angel grindr fo sho but it's much more accurate if you dinnae wanna slice yer shaft wide open. I've got a cheap ass copy and that's gone through 9mm mild steel rods ok, does eat a disk or two though but they're so cheap it doesn't matter.

It's also possible to cut the roller cage with decent wire cutters. You'll still need to get through the inner housing though.

It all depends on what tools to hand as how it gets tackled.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 13:59 - 31 Oct 2018    Post subject: Re: bearing Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
Can the op post a good picture of the bottom of the bearing where it butts up to the yoke please.


I haven't received a yoke with a bearing on it at the moment, it's comimng. the only pics I do have include the bearings and cage, which obscure the inner ring. I'll get another when I can.
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B5234FT
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PostPosted: 16:43 - 31 Oct 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

No way I'd re-use the bearing.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 10:57 - 01 Nov 2018    Post subject: bearing Reply with quote

if the bike is apart, take a good picture/pictures of the bottom yoke where the bearing cone is butted up against the actual bottom yoke, to show an sticky outy of the bearing cone.

perhaps a knife blade bearing puller puller would suffice..........and a slide hammer.....

if you have a grinder and a drill etc. and some suitable material you can make the knife plate and slide hammer.....
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kgm
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PostPosted: 14:08 - 01 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just dremel them off. Doesn't take long with a diamond disk.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 16:08 - 01 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep going. It's the only way. Or take the bottom yoke to a bike shop and have them remove it. Just don't ask questions about how they do it!!

I'd personally dremel the little blighter off, I don't care how many cutting discs I'd go through, or if I accidentally nick the stem (although naturally I'd try to avoid it) but I'd just keep going until the job is done. It's not like you have much choice now!
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:47 - 02 Nov 2018    Post subject: bearing Reply with quote

If its a taper roller bearing at the bottom and the cage and roller are removed ( just cut the cage off, its only tin ) from the inner race, you will see a "lip".

If a bit of stout metal U shaped was made to fit and utisile the lip, and form the "puller" or "impact " part of a slide hammer system, this would prove to be a painless way of removing the inner race ?

You could of course very carefully grind away at the inner race keeping an eye out for "colour changes" as the ground thickness is reduced to wafer thin.

Grind in 2 places opposite each other to reduce the "grip" of the inner race on the steering tube, the bearing is scrap now.....

A picture of the bottom race area and butt would be good me thinks.....

Steady as you go and don't forget to wear goggles, ear and eye types....
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:57 - 02 Nov 2018    Post subject: bearing Reply with quote

Sadly the oe yam manual in the "separating forks" thread does not cover removal of steering/forks bottom yoke bottom bearing race......but copy it anyways as you may learn stuff ( mainly about the td yam ) that can be applied to your present bike, or even future one. Your head will not exploded.

wd forte's picture shows at bottom taper roller inner race, cage and tapered rollers, but the 2 white indicators more or less point to the top of the "lip" i have been going on about. This lip can be used to aid the bottom race removal..........

pictures dude pictures....
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 15:17 - 02 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well a used yoke appeared in the post this morning. The inner cone is in good condition, so I think I'll just re-use it.

Were I to need to get it off, I would probably still press the stem through the yoke, as it's "cleaner" and quicker than attacking it with a grinder, but I might be tempted to grind it (outside!) perhaps as it's better "enginering-wise".
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 16:28 - 02 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
Well a used yoke appeared in the post this morning. The inner cone is in good condition, so I think I'll just re-use it.


Do you mean the inner race of the bearing? If so Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Don't re use it! You don't know if the tolerances between the two bearings are right, you don't even know they are the same manufacturer!!! Shocked Shocked Shocked
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 16:56 - 02 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:

Do you mean the inner race of the bearing? If so ... Don't re use it! You don't know if the tolerances between the two bearings are right, you don't even know they are the same manufacturer!!! ...


Of course I will check the thing. If it won't do, it won't do, but is very likely to be OK. It's a tapered roller bearing.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 02 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Meh, loads of room to pull that with the correct tool.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bearing-separator-puller/19315

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=1zurCUGh0uw
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 21:34 - 02 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
Meh, loads of room to pull that with the correct tool.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/bearing-separator-puller/19315

Good Lord. I purchased that exact puller a little while ago. I used it to pull a main bearing off a 50cc crankshaft. The tool was destroyed in the process. I thought I'd left a rather critical review on Screwfix's site, but I cannot now find it.

Faults: Jaw angle far too steep. Jaws/"sharp edge" far too thick. Jaws and bolts apparently made of cheese, painted silver. had to be dressed with a file to get it under the bearing.

If you need a separator like that, I strongly recommend buying something else!

While it's possible that this puller might get the bearing off ( sort of doubt it) if the bearings & cage were removed (there is no way it would get under the bearing), the length of the stem prevents the use of most of these sorts of pullers unless they are fitted with longer connectors.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 10:57 - 03 Nov 2018    Post subject: bearing Reply with quote

Gosh, so you are not "new" to this type of stuff then, have you heard of threaded rod, nuts and washers........you know of grinders and file dressing ( not x i hope, you bastard you, the file i mean !! ) ..

You have purchased a second hand bottom yoke ( which i suppose as you propose pressing the steering tube out with all the dangers involved, is a good idea ! ) with bearing inner ( cone ) attached.

Bite the bullet and learn how to remove the cone so as not to damage the yoke at all. Make the tools to do the job if you have to, then, you can do this job for other people and recoup the money spent. A good learning curve.

I doubt any customer would pay for a new yoke as well as replaceable bearings, do you ?

Post a pic of the cone to yoke fit and any gap/step seen. remember the top "lip" idea ?
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 11:16 - 03 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh dear. If this thread is read, even the immediately previous post, you will see these points are already mentioned (and pictures posted).
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 11:21 - 03 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
Oh dear. If this thread is read, even the immediately previous post, you will see these points are already mentioned (and pictures posted).


Dremel it off, or try heat. You have to keep going because you can't mix and match bearings. You could also try clamping it in a pillar drill, drilling a small hole in the bearing shell, and then grinding through the remains. I'm sure I've done this before by grinding two small grooves in the bearing shell, and then using a chisel to hammer out the segment, with the rest then just popping off.
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Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 11:36 - 03 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
You have to keep going because you can't mix and match bearings.


This thread has wandered significantly off the original post, so I'll dump it, but some parts, like that, are still interesting.

Depending on the design (type of bearing and the manufacturer), some roller bearings have interchangeable components. This is the case for single row tapered roller bearings.

A quick poke about gets this, from Skef's website:

https://www.skf.com/uk/products/bearings-units-housings/roller-bearings/tapered-roller-bearings/index.html

SKF wrote:
Separable and interchangeable

Depending on the design, tapered roller bearings are separable and components of same-sized bearings are fully interchangeable. For example, single row tapered roller bearings are separable (fig. 5), i.e. the inner ring with roller and cage assembly (cone) can be mounted separately from the outer ring (cup). This facilitates mounting, dismounting and also maintenance inspection routines.


The same goes for single row cylindrical roller bearings.
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