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Removing f*cked mixture screw

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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 14:57 - 09 Nov 2018    Post subject: Removing f*cked mixture screw Reply with quote

Hi all,
Looks like previous owner of this tdr was a butcher by trade.
The air/fuel mixture screw is chewed to f*ck 😑
Is there a not so complicated way of removing one of these?
I though of grinding down the tip of of a screwdriver to "fatten" it up to try get some purchase or using a small left handed cobalt drill bit.
Any other suggestions?
These carbs are getting hard to get hold of second hand (mikuni vm26ss) so replacement is out of the question.

TIA

cheers,
GAZ
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 17:40 - 09 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im unsure how much room or how big the screw in question is, but would something like this work ?
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p38732?r=googleshopping&rr=marin&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7N7z6N_H3gIV2YjVCh2BDwrHEAQYBSABEgIcx_D_BwE

the smallest one.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 18:30 - 09 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any pics, is the housing damaged?
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Tankie
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PostPosted: 20:41 - 09 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Strip the carb,then if you are still able to get a purchase on the offending screw heat the carb body up with HEATGUN , not a flame ,this should loosen the hold on the screw
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Tankie
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PostPosted: 20:49 - 09 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Strip the carb,then if you are still able to get a purchase on the offending screw heat the carb body up with HEATGUN , not a flame ,this should loosen the hold on the screw
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 09 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you know anyone who works in a lab who can get you concentrated nitric acid?

Conc. (not dilute) nitric acid will dissolve brass on contact into a dense cloud of noxious brown fumes and a boiling green liquid. It will passivate the aluminium doing minimal damage to it. Dilute nitric acid will turn your whole carb into an Escher painting.

This is NOT stuff to casually fuck about with mind. It's extremely nasty. As are some of the gasses and salts eluted from the copper/tin/trace heavy metals that get broken down. Effective though.

Hard to get hold of due to it being a key componant in the manufacture of high explosives.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 12:17 - 10 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's a manual on one of the recent threads, steering head races from memory, so save that !!!! then post the diagram/picture of the carb and the problem on your TD, or even the cmsnl exploded view, it may help.
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 16:41 - 11 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tankie wrote:
Strip the carb,then if you are still able to get a purchase on the offending screw heat the carb body up with HEATGUN , not a flame ,this should loosen the hold on the screw


hi,

unable to get ANY purchase on screw. tips chewed right off.
common problem caused by idiots using wrong tools.
So much so, theres a guy charges 60 quid to remove them on ebay Shocked
screw is in a blind hole btw so not sure heating it will help.

cheers,
GAZ
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 16:42 - 11 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
There's a manual on one of the recent threads, steering head races from memory, so save that !!!! then post the diagram/picture of the carb and the problem on your TD, or even the cmsnl exploded view, it may help.

hi,
linky? or hint in general direction?

cheers,
GAZ
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 11 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Do you know anyone who works in a lab who can get you concentrated nitric acid?

Conc. (not dilute) nitric acid will dissolve brass on contact into a dense cloud of noxious brown fumes and a boiling green liquid. It will passivate the aluminium doing minimal damage to it. Dilute nitric acid will turn your whole carb into an Escher painting.

This is NOT stuff to casually fuck about with mind. It's extremely nasty. As are some of the gasses and salts eluted from the copper/tin/trace heavy metals that get broken down. Effective though.

Hard to get hold of due to it being a key componant in the manufacture of high explosives.


Hi,
for some reason whenever you reply, i get an image of that old guy from back to the future & then get scared, very scared.


cheers though,
GAZ
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 16:51 - 11 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugeye_bob wrote:

it would need to be a very small one, like 2 or 3mm
common problem caused by idiots using wrong tools.
AND id be damn sccared of it snapping in situ, causing carb to be scrap.

cheers,
GAZ
it would eedc to be a very smal one, like 2 or 3mm
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Tankie
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PostPosted: 18:24 - 11 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you got a mixture screw out so you can see what the proper undamaged item looks like to give an idea of how much material you have to play with
Self centering drill bits are available to help you centre up the hole, I take it the offending screw is recessed, I don't think a left handed bit will help as these bloody screws tend to lock themselves in, heat will help as this will expand the casting a little.
The carb should be put in a machine vice and drilled with a quality pillar drill, this is no easy task, I think a lot of machinists would baulk at this kind of job
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 10:52 - 12 Nov 2018    Post subject: lazy bugger Reply with quote

https://www.oemmotorparts.com/oem5.asp?M=Yamaha&T=TRX%20%20850&Y=1996&L=YA-TRX-850&O=FRONT%20FORK&F=YA-TRX-850_bd&L2=YA-TRX-850_bd



https://www.google.co.uk/url?q=https://www.trx850.com/hosted/manual/trxmanual.pdf&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwjCjoGeh6neAhVFLVAKHX1RCjYQFjAGegQIBxAB&usg=AOvVaw2d6Z1j1rI_YZZA7faOS25R


you know what your bike is so go and find it on cmsnl, post a pic of the carb diagram and dont be so lazy, be more self reliant

post a picture of what you see so we can, we may be able to help more that way.
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doombug11
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PostPosted: 01:09 - 19 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got one out by soaking it in WD40, then used a hand impact driver to get the bit to bite down on the fucked screw and get a enough purchase to loosen it.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 01:54 - 19 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

doombug11 wrote:
I got one out by soaking it in WD40

Concentrated nitric acid sounds more fun. (Hello GCHQ and MI5 Laughing)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJSQq494oV4
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doombug11
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PostPosted: 02:07 - 19 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ste wrote:
doombug11 wrote:
I got one out by soaking it in WD40

Concentrated nitric acid sounds more fun. (Hello GCHQ and MI5 Laughing)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJSQq494oV4


Yer man, you know as soon as you typed 'Nitric Acid' the computer screens at GCHQ just lit up Laughing
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garth
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PostPosted: 05:13 - 19 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't do what I did and heat the carb enough to melt the float though. That's a proper dickhead move.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:02 - 19 Nov 2018    Post subject: screw screwed Reply with quote

\any pics, of the screw or the float even !
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Robby
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PostPosted: 16:03 - 24 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could drill a hole and bash in a small torx bit, which should allow you to unscrew it.

If you are going to drill the whole screw out, make sure you have a new screw to understand what shape the hole is, and how deep you can drill. The metals are very soft, so drilling mistakes happen very quickly.
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 09:51 - 25 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
You could drill a hole and bash in a small torx bit, which should allow you to unscrew it.

If you are going to drill the whole screw out, make sure you have a new screw to understand what shape the hole is, and how deep you can drill. The metals are very soft, so drilling mistakes happen very quickly.


^^this

I’ve done the same on pilot jets that wouldn’t shift, although they are a bit easier because they tend to self centre the drill bit.
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 08:18 - 30 Nov 2018    Post subject: Re: lazy bugger Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
https://www.oemmotorparts.com/oem5.asp?M=Yamaha&T=TRX%20%20850&Y=1996&L=YA-TRX-850&O=FRONT%20FORK&F=YA-TRX-850_bd&L2=YA-TRX-850_bd



https://www.google.co.uk/url?q=https://www.trx850.com/hosted/manual/trxmanual.pdf&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwjCjoGeh6neAhVFLVAKHX1RCjYQFjAGegQIBxAB&usg=AOvVaw2d6Z1j1rI_YZZA7faOS25R


you know what your bike is so go and find it on cmsnl, post a pic of the carb diagram and dont be so lazy, be more self reliant

post a picture of what you see so we can, we may be able to help more that way.


hi,
wasnt being lazy, just had problems uploadling exploded diagram of carb, which is a mikuni tm26 s/s1 & im sorry but i found your links to be of no use to me as i couldnt find any listing of a TDR125, perhaps you can?
MAYBE I was being lazy, hmmmm. but it is 7am and i havnt been to bed yet.
oh & im aware of what a decent oem mixtrure screw looks like, i have one here Wink


cheers,
GAZ
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:14 - 01 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

part number 30 in the cmsnl view ?

If this is the correct view then the screw looks quite get at able ?
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bugeye_bob
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PostPosted: 15:18 - 01 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/153000583623?chn=ps . . .
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 10:04 - 03 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
part number 30 in the cmsnl view ?

If this is the correct view then the screw looks quite get at able ?


Hi,
Yes it's part no.30 but it sits a few mm (at least 4 or 5mm) down inside a blind hole.
Can hardly see tip.of screw 😑 especially since tip of screw is gone Rolling Eyes

cheers,
GAZ
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 11:51 - 03 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugeye_bob wrote:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/153000583623?chn=ps . . .


Hi,
This was my original thought as had lots of success with cobalt bits.
BUT smallest in that set is 2mm, snappy snappy bit = f*cked carb.
Might as well give it a go though Thumbs Up

cheers,
GAZ
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