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Kawasaki ER5 - fuel logic!

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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 00:34 - 16 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before i put carb/s back on i connect a pipe with a funnel attached filled with fuel and hanging above to see if the carb/s do not overflow.
The needle valve rubber tip has to be unmarked and flexible.
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 07:16 - 16 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

That would have been a good idea to test they work! Ah well. The needle tips were immaculate on both, inspected those very carefully
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 07:28 - 16 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
Before i put carb/s back on i connect a pipe with a funnel attached filled with fuel and hanging above to see if the carb/s do not overflow.
The needle valve rubber tip has to be unmarked and flexible.


While not ideal, I could test this with the carbs in situ; I need the spin the engine with the plugs out anyway to check it isn’t flooded so I can attach the fuel line and funnel and just see if the fuel keeps on flowing into the carb or if it stops. If it keeps taking fuel, I can clear the cylinders and take carbs back off again (hope I don’t actually have to do this though!). I think this will work and will test the carbs in their normal orientation too?
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:25 - 16 Nov 2018    Post subject: carbs Reply with quote

The float needle valve seats look a little dirty/gummy, so a clean for them me thinks. They don't look easily removable ( screwed in or screw clamped in ) so probably don't have small domed filter screens above them, check on cmsnl......a brilliant resource.

You have not split the carbs so they will be in balance, or, more accyurately, balanced as they where before you stripped them.

I would make a bracket that screws to the carbs so it can be vice mounted, for bench testing and initial y setting up.

The float heights can be checked/adjusted and fuel level compared.

Some suitable ball bearing balls can be placed in the venturis against the throttle butterflies. Open the throttle butterflies slowly and look/listen for the balls to "drop thru" at the same time, a good initial balance technique with the carbs OFF the engine. Any flooding can also be checked for as you have stated.

Allan bolts are obtainable to replace chewed screws making float chamber removal and refitting so easy with the carbs on the bike.

The vac tap is exactly that, a tap, not a perry pump, so adding the resistance to fuel flow of a filter MAY reduce fuel flow during engine running, and the engine stop. This depends on filter used and fuel "head" height, vent capability etc..

Both floats are floats, one filling up with fuel ??
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Last edited by bikenut on 11:31 - 16 Nov 2018; edited 1 time in total
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 11:29 - 16 Nov 2018    Post subject: Re: carbs Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
The float needle valve seats look a little dirty/gummy, so a clean for them me thinks. They don't look easily removable ( screwed in or screw clamped in ) so probably don't have small domed filter screens above them, check on cmsnl......a brilliant resource


To be fair I don’t think the photo looks accurate - the brass is very bright in reality, think the phone camera has tried to dull it down
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 19:20 - 17 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

The good news is the needle valves appear to be working - funnel test on the fuel intake held fuel once the float bowls had filled (pic attached). Can’t fit an in-line filter on the reserve line annoyingly though as there isn’t enough space to get one in. It’ll have to go after the petcock which I didn’t really want. Ah well. Frustratingly I’ve already installed one on the normal fuel line so there’s going to end up being one either side of the petcock - hopefully it’ll pull the fuel ok - I guess I’ll find out once I get the petcock repair kit on Monday.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 00:22 - 18 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThunderGuts wrote:
Unfortunately a hamfisted gorilla had been in there before so the screws were a bit chewed.


They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS) screw heads. If you try to undo them with either a posidrive or phillips screwdriver (which is what you get in every screwdriver set), they will burr very easily. As many people find.

You should only really undo them using a JIS scrwdriver. Not all that commonly available (you'd be amazed how many motorcycle "mechanics" don't have any) but there is one in every Kawasaki toolkit. Cheap looking thing with a black plastic handle.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:16 - 19 Nov 2018    Post subject: carbs Reply with quote

I may have already mentioned this, but you know of cmsnl for the exploded views.

Using the closest match on cmsnl, the main and res take out points stubs from the tank have filters, but i understand your thinking for an external filter for each feed line.

remeber the fuel tap is just that, a tap, not a pump as such, but as stated priviouse, so long as you have enough fuel head and a non excessive restrictive in line filter all should be ok.

Is there a different tap with a sediment bowl attached that will fit this bike, it states europe and africa model on cmsnl......
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 22:25 - 19 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

She lives!! Very Happy

Petcock rebuild was easy enough. Seems to hold the fuel back. Two filters on the fuelling; one after the petcock, one before on the main line only. Runs fine with them there. In fact, she runs great!

Thanks to everyone for the help - made the job a lot easier! I now know my bike a lot better too Cool

Cheers
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