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Suzuki bandit gsf600 year 2000 won't start ?

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Deano4
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PostPosted: 20:42 - 22 Nov 2018    Post subject: Suzuki bandit gsf600 year 2000 won't start ? Reply with quote

Hi everyone.

I recently had to change the battery on my suzuki bandit as the old one was done.

Everything was working fine before hand and now with new battery the bike won't start.

All lights,horn,indicators are working. Neutral light comes on as normal when I turn the key and needles move on clocks like normal.

When I hold clutch in and press start button the solenoid with the 30 amp fuse doesn't click in to send power to starter motor.

When I jump a wire across the solenoid the bike will start. Which means starter is Ok.

I have also jumped the clutch switch and I'm almost sure the sidestand switch is working.
I'm not sure on what wire to test to see if start button is working as it goes into a plug in headlight. The plug doesn't look corroded or anything.
I am not great with electrics and any help would be much appreciated as i am now lost on what to test or check as this bike was running 100percent a month ago.
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Evil Hans
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PostPosted: 21:56 - 22 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Accidentally knocked the kill switch to off? (It happens!)

An immobiliser that you didn't know about has reset itself?


Check the fuses.
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Deano4
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PostPosted: 22:03 - 22 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Evil Hans wrote:
Accidentally knocked the kill switch to off? (It happens!)

An immobiliser that you didn't know about has reset itself?


Check the fuses.


Yeh tested all fuses with multimeter and there all ok.
Kill switch is in correct location
No don't think there is an immobiliser as i have the bike in bits before and didn't notice anything.

So frustrating as everything was fine before the battery went down.
I changed the battery a few years back and didn't have these problems.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 22:12 - 22 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

The sidestand switch doesn't matter if the neutral light is on.

You've jumpered the clutch switch so that's out of the equation.

If you jumper the solenoid manually it starts and runs so that's the run switch working.

Immobiliser or start button contacts IMO. Have a wiring diagram on me (It's for a k3/k4 but they must be very similar) Smile
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Deano4
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PostPosted: 22:27 - 22 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
The sidestand switch doesn't matter if the neutral light is on.

You've jumpered the clutch switch so that's out of the equation.

If you jumper the solenoid manually it starts and runs so that's the run switch working.

Immobiliser or start button contacts IMO. Have a wiring diagram on me (It's for a k3/k4 but they must be very similar) Smile


Yeh neutral light is on.
The reason I change battery is because it was on its way out and before I put new battery in the solenoid was clicking but just not enough juice to start.
I know before I changed battery the solenoid hit the frame of bike and sparked but don't think it would of caused any problems???
Could I possibly have a copy of the diagram?
I'm not great with electrics but If I knew where to put the meter on to to test I could rule out start switch. Strange it was all ok before fitting battery.
Thanks for advice
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 10:44 - 23 Nov 2018    Post subject: diagram Reply with quote

That's quite an involved system, but a good diagram........study and follow the circuit, taking your time and being very methodical.

Hopefully its the same wring for your bike


When I hold clutch in and press start button the solenoid with the 30 amp fuse doesn't click in to send power to starter motor.

I know before I changed battery the solenoid hit the frame of bike and sparked but don't think it would of caused any problems??? Never a good thing to do !

Not sure what the devise is below the throttle position sensor in the diagram, perhaps the manual or cmsnl will help there.


The reason I change battery is because it was on its way out and before I put new battery in the solenoid was clicking but just not enough juice to start.

mmmmmmm, may have been the battery as its the time of year for battery failures, but.......

Did you check battery cranking voltage or a bad earth/connections, or just replace the battery willy nilly......its always good to check.

side stand relay?
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Deano4
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PostPosted: 15:29 - 23 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I changed battery because the volts where low when testing it and when I charged it was the same. No power in it at all. Not enough for lights or horn.

I haven't checked the earths. I will check that here today so I will.

I'm not sure on where sidestand relay is
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 15:36 - 23 Nov 2018    Post subject: relay Reply with quote

cmsnl may give you a location/indication/view, so at least you will know what it looks like.....
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Deano4
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PostPosted: 16:33 - 23 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I have an update. Once I press start button I am getting 11 volts to the solenoid but nothing happening. Solenoid click a few times . Any ideas ?

Faulty solenoid?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 20:38 - 23 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since the fault developed after you changed the battery check the heavy black lead from the battery making sure it's firmly fixed both ends. It will likely have a smaller wire split off it at the battery end, that wire will have a single spade connector part-way along it. Check that it's not corroded.

When you measure 11 volts at the solenoid where do you have the return - on the frame/engine or direct to the battery? Should be on the battery terminal.

Testing the solenoid is easy. Un-plug the left handlebar loom and find the yellow-black lead terminal (on the loom side). This is what feeds power to the solenoid from the clutch switch. Run a wire from Battery + to that terminal and the starter should crank over regardless of the rest of the switches. If it doesn't either the starter relay is fooked or the Battery negative circuit has a poor connection.

If it does crank try these tests:

Put your meter across the battery. Check the voltage, should be 12.6v or thereabouts. Now, follow the power to where it's dropping volts.

Red wire from the solenoid 30A fuse feeds the ignition switch. From the switch it's an orange wire feeding fuses 2,3 and 4. Pull the fuses and check the voltage at their feeding side, if it's significantly low you have a dodgy ignition switch.

Fuse 3 feeds the sidestand relay via a orange/yellow wire. When the stand is down OR the neutral light is on the relay feeds ignition power to the stop switch by a orange/black wire. The stop switch feeds the coils and the start button via a orange/white wire. Check the voltage at a coil if you can get at it if it's low you have a dodgy connection in the sidestand relay or the stop switch.

From the starter button a yellow/green wire turns into a green/yellow wire and goes through the clutch switch then turns black/yellow to the starter solenoid.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Deano4
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PostPosted: 21:03 - 23 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
Since the fault developed after you changed the battery check the heavy black lead from the battery making sure it's firmly fixed both ends. It will likely have a smaller wire split off it at the battery end, that wire will have a single spade connector part-way along it. Check that it's not corroded.

When you measure 11 volts at the solenoid where do you have the return - on the frame/engine or direct to the battery? Should be on the battery terminal.

Testing the solenoid is easy. Un-plug the left handlebar loom and find the yellow-black lead terminal (on the loom side). This is what feeds power to the solenoid from the clutch switch. Run a wire from Battery + to that terminal and the starter should crank over regardless of the rest of the switches. If it doesn't either the starter relay is fooked or the Battery negative circuit has a poor connection.

If it does crank try these tests:

Put your meter across the battery. Check the voltage, should be 12.6v or thereabouts. Now, follow the power to where it's dropping volts.

Red wire from the solenoid 30A fuse feeds the ignition switch. From the switch it's an orange wire feeding fuses 2,3 and 4. Pull the fuses and check the voltage at their feeding side, if it's significantly low you have a dodgy ignition switch.

Fuse 3 feeds the sidestand relay via a orange/yellow wire. When the stand is down OR the neutral light is on the relay feeds ignition power to the stop switch by a orange/black wire. The stop switch feeds the coils and the start button via a orange/white wire. Check the voltage at a coil if you can get at it if it's low you have a dodgy connection in the sidestand relay or the stop switch.

From the starter button a yellow/green wire turns into a green/yellow wire and goes through the clutch switch then turns black/yellow to the starter solenoid.


Wow thanks for all that usefully info. I will test all that tomorrow.
How I got the 11 volts was I put my multimeter on the black and yellow wire that goes to the starter solenoid and the other end of the meter to the frame of bike when I press clutch and start button it reads 11 volts and when I release start button it reads nothing which would tell me it's working.
I checked black wire coming from battery and connection looks fine . Also checked the spade that comes off the heavy black cable and sprayed and cleaned connection.
I think it is either solenoid or negative circuit has a bad connection.
If it was negative circuit have u and info on what I should test?

Thank you for your help it's greatly appreciated
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 02:20 - 24 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

""""Everything was working fine before hand and now with new battery the bike won't start. """
Have you a pic of the old and new battery?
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Deano4
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PostPosted: 13:34 - 24 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
""""Everything was working fine before hand and now with new battery the bike won't start. """
Have you a pic of the old and new battery?


Old and new battery are identical. 12v 8AH numax YTX9BS
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:10 - 26 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

8 ah sounds a bit small ?

some voltage drop on its journey to the solenoid via the various switches. Check then bench test the solenoid, then refit and "hot wire " the solenoid energiser side of the unit, does it not make the starter whizz and work ??

Remember earths and have you done any painting?
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Deano4
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PostPosted: 18:13 - 26 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
8 ah sounds a bit small ?

some voltage drop on its journey to the solenoid via the various switches. Check then bench test the solenoid, then refit and "hot wire " the solenoid energiser side of the unit, does it not make the starter whizz and work ??

Remember earths and have you done any painting?


New solenoid coming in middle of week so it will rule it out as less than £20 for a new one.
I'm not sure if 8AH is small or not as I'm not that clued up on it. That's what was in the bike when I bought it.
Yeh that does make the starter work. I'm getting power to the starter it's just not clicking and sending power to start. If I jump it the starter will fire the bike up.
No I have dome no painting and I can only see on main earth on the bike
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 19:07 - 26 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

To test the solenoid you simply run a wire from battery + to the black/yellow wire on the solenoid. If the starert fires the solenoid is working. If it doesn't fire either the solenoid is not working or you have a return fault. Return fault can be diagnosed by putting a jump lead from the starter housing to the battery negative.
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132.9mph off and walked away. Gear is good, gear is good, gear is very very good Very Happy
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Deano4
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PostPosted: 19:56 - 26 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pete. wrote:
To test the solenoid you simply run a wire from battery + to the black/yellow wire on the solenoid. If the starert fires the solenoid is working. If it doesn't fire either the solenoid is not working or you have a return fault. Return fault can be diagnosed by putting a jump lead from the starter housing to the battery negative.


Thanks I will try that tomorrow .

Once again all your comments are greatly appreciated
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Deano4
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PostPosted: 15:54 - 01 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Deano4 wrote:
Pete. wrote:
To test the solenoid you simply run a wire from battery + to the black/yellow wire on the solenoid. If the starert fires the solenoid is working. If it doesn't fire either the solenoid is not working or you have a return fault. Return fault can be diagnosed by putting a jump lead from the starter housing to the battery negative.


Thanks I will try that tomorrow .

Once again all your comments are greatly appreciated


Just a little update. I got the bike running. Ended up being a faulty solenoid. Thanks guys for all the support and help.
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