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kgm |
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kgm World Chat Champion
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jaffa90 |
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ADSrox0r |
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ADSrox0r World Chat Champion
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Posted: 08:57 - 27 Nov 2018 Post subject: |
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Hah, sounds like you've got 'the problem'.
When you start it, crack the throttle EVER so slightly just so that it tickles up to 2000 rpm (no more, no less) and hold it there. Keep it at 2000 for around 10 seconds or so, then ever so gently let go of the throttle. If it's 'happy' it will then hold at 2000 or so, if it's not then it will bog down to 1000 or less and die. If the latter, tickle the throttle up to 2000 for a bit longer till it does hold. Once it holds, you can leave it to its thing on standard warmup.
Now, here's the thing. The VTEC has a fancy shmancy 'auto-choke' that isn't a choke at all. It's a 'wax idle' unit. Basically, when the ambient temperature is below around 10C, the wax idle valve will contract (while the bike is off) and pull on a set of starter valves. These are teeny tiny little openings right next to the main butterflies that let a farts worth of air in to get the mixture going when it's cold. It works off the coolant flow temperature so once it gets to around 40C the valve starts to let go and the rpm will drop back down to around idle.
The first reaction from anyone is always, "wax idle is faulty, replace! easy!"
Wrong. It isn't this. You can replace it but it will still do the same thing in cold weather.
There are a number of us on the VFR forums that have struggled with this puzzle for quite a few years and the truth is, we can't solve it! It has something to do with the MAP sensor though, we know this because if you electrically disconnect the MAP sensor and fire it up then it will start perfectly normally without issue. Replace the MAP sensor you say? Tried that, no different.
I thought I had solved it last year by tightening slack clamps on the boots but it's doing it again this year.
In all honesty, it doesn't seem to affect anything and you get used to having to tickle the throttle for a while on startup. Just be aware if you don't follow this 'procedure' and let it bog and die then you will flood it.
Sorry this doesn't help you cure it, but it's not uncommon and won't hurt it. ____________________ Current bikes: '08 VFR 800 VTEC(yo) , '07 ZZR1400 Winter hack: '95 Aprilia 650 Pegaso Currently lusting after: RC30 |
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kgm |
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kgm World Chat Champion
Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Karma :
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Posted: 09:15 - 27 Nov 2018 Post subject: |
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ADSrox0r wrote: | Hah, sounds like you've got 'the problem'.
When you start it, crack the throttle EVER so slightly just so that it tickles up to 2000 rpm (no more, no less) and hold it there. Keep it at 2000 for around 10 seconds or so, then ever so gently let go of the throttle. If it's 'happy' it will then hold at 2000 or so, if it's not then it will bog down to 1000 or less and die. If the latter, tickle the throttle up to 2000 for a bit longer till it does hold. Once it holds, you can leave it to its thing on standard warmup.
Now, here's the thing. The VTEC has a fancy shmancy 'auto-choke' that isn't a choke at all. It's a 'wax idle' unit. Basically, when the ambient temperature is below around 10C, the wax idle valve will contract (while the bike is off) and pull on a set of starter valves. These are teeny tiny little openings right next to the main butterflies that let a farts worth of air in to get the mixture going when it's cold. It works off the coolant flow temperature so once it gets to around 40C the valve starts to let go and the rpm will drop back down to around idle.
The first reaction from anyone is always, "wax idle is faulty, replace! easy!"
Wrong. It isn't this. You can replace it but it will still do the same thing in cold weather.
There are a number of us on the VFR forums that have struggled with this puzzle for quite a few years and the truth is, we can't solve it! It has something to do with the MAP sensor though, we know this because if you electrically disconnect the MAP sensor and fire it up then it will start perfectly normally without issue. Replace the MAP sensor you say? Tried that, no different.
I thought I had solved it last year by tightening slack clamps on the boots but it's doing it again this year.
In all honesty, it doesn't seem to affect anything and you get used to having to tickle the throttle for a while on startup. Just be aware if you don't follow this 'procedure' and let it bog and die then you will flood it.
Sorry this doesn't help you cure it, but it's not uncommon and won't hurt it. |
Interesting. If this is the issue is it normal for it to run really roughly on the throttle? |
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ADSrox0r |
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ADSrox0r World Chat Champion
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kgm |
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kgm World Chat Champion
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ADSrox0r |
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ADSrox0r World Chat Champion
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Posted: 08:39 - 28 Nov 2018 Post subject: |
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Welcome to the exclusive club then
You'll find it pretty much always does it when ambient temperature is below 10C. I'd say that you removing and refitting the exhaust had nothing to do with it, it just coincided with a particularly cold morning. You might also find your fuel consumption is rather...hungry.
For reference, here's one account I still have bookmarked of it in discussion from over the years...
https://vfrworld.com/threads/issue-cold-start-and-idle-rough.50635/
Honda have been of no use either btw, pretty much drawn a blank. ____________________ Current bikes: '08 VFR 800 VTEC(yo) , '07 ZZR1400 Winter hack: '95 Aprilia 650 Pegaso Currently lusting after: RC30 |
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Old Thread Alert!
There is a gap of 1 year, 279 days between these two posts... |
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Cartam |
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Cartam L Plate Warrior
Joined: 03 Sep 2020 Karma :
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xX-Alex-Xx |
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xX-Alex-Xx World Chat Champion
Joined: 12 Sep 2019 Karma :
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Posted: 08:27 - 03 Sep 2020 Post subject: |
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ADSrox0r wrote: | Hah, sounds like you've got 'the problem'.
When you start it, crack the throttle EVER so slightly just so that it tickles up to 2000 rpm (no more, no less) and hold it there. Keep it at 2000 for around 10 seconds or so, then ever so gently let go of the throttle. If it's 'happy' it will then hold at 2000 or so, if it's not then it will bog down to 1000 or less and die. If the latter, tickle the throttle up to 2000 for a bit longer till it does hold. Once it holds, you can leave it to its thing on standard warmup.
Now, here's the thing. The VTEC has a fancy shmancy 'auto-choke' that isn't a choke at all. It's a 'wax idle' unit. Basically, when the ambient temperature is below around 10C, the wax idle valve will contract (while the bike is off) and pull on a set of starter valves. These are teeny tiny little openings right next to the main butterflies that let a farts worth of air in to get the mixture going when it's cold. It works off the coolant flow temperature so once it gets to around 40C the valve starts to let go and the rpm will drop back down to around idle.
The first reaction from anyone is always, "wax idle is faulty, replace! easy!"
Wrong. It isn't this. You can replace it but it will still do the same thing in cold weather.
There are a number of us on the VFR forums that have struggled with this puzzle for quite a few years and the truth is, we can't solve it! It has something to do with the MAP sensor though, we know this because if you electrically disconnect the MAP sensor and fire it up then it will start perfectly normally without issue. Replace the MAP sensor you say? Tried that, no different.
I thought I had solved it last year by tightening slack clamps on the boots but it's doing it again this year.
In all honesty, it doesn't seem to affect anything and you get used to having to tickle the throttle for a while on startup. Just be aware if you don't follow this 'procedure' and let it bog and die then you will flood it.
Sorry this doesn't help you cure it, but it's not uncommon and won't hurt it. |
I had the exact opposite problem on my 929 with the wax unit. When it was cold, I would start the bike and it'd hold revs around 3-4000 until it warmed up. Had to get the tank and airbox off, and adjust the wax unit's connection up to the throttle bodies. After that it was ok. Took me a bit of research to figure out what it was though as it didn't really happen in warmer weather. ____________________ DILLIGAF |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 3 years, 229 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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