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CBF600N P38 2006 Winterize Question

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dsg10715
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PostPosted: 19:50 - 28 Nov 2018    Post subject: CBF600N P38 2006 Winterize Question Reply with quote

Gents (and Ladies) I am tearing my hair out trying to find the petcock or fuel tap on my bike, a CBF600 2006, in preparations for winterizing. I know where to drain the carbs, but Ive read I should turn the fuel tap off.

Does anyone have any advice on what I am missing or doing wrong?

First bike so learning a lot but the Haynes is leaving me befuddled.
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 20:52 - 28 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you follow the fuel lines from the carb back to the tank, it’ll be the first thing you come to. Should have a rotating tap on it. They’re quite small, about the size of a matchbox
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 21:41 - 28 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-CBF600-N-S-2004-to-2007-Fuel-Vacuum-Tap-J8/183116127907?hash=item2aa2925ea3:g:2m4AAOSwdbxaoWWd:rk:1:pf:0
Looks like yours has a vacuum operated tap so fuel should not flow when draining the carbs.
If fuel does not stop flowing the tap is faulty.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 21:53 - 28 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fowlers parts say it doesn't have a traditional rotating fuel tap. Not all bikes do.

https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4800303/cbf600n6-2006-e-spc/fuel-tank-cbf600n6na6
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dsg10715
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PostPosted: 13:09 - 29 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all, so it looks like I dont need to turn off. Fuel tap for winter and just drain the carbs.

Sorry for late reply, for some reason I didnt get the alert
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MCN
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PostPosted: 13:30 - 29 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

dsg10715 wrote:
Thanks all, so it looks like I dont need to turn off. Fuel tap for winter and just drain the carbs.

Sorry for late reply, for some reason I didnt get the alert


If you're parking it up then add fuel stabiliser to the tank and brim the tank.
The additive helps prevent the fuel breaking down which means sludge and crystallization.
And brimming prevents water condensation on cold tank surfaces causing rust and water in the fuel.

Blow up the tires to about 60psi and sit the beast on stands.
Cover with a good quality bike cover to keep it getting knocked and dirty.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 13:32 - 29 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

dsg10715 wrote:
Thanks all, so it looks like I dont need to turn off. Fuel tap for winter and just drain the carbs.

Sorry for late reply, for some reason I didnt get the alert


Hang on. Why do you need to drain the carbs because it's winter? I normally just ensure that my tyres have sufficient depth and all my lights work.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 13:34 - 29 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn’t drain the carbs, i’d Just buy some fuel stabiliser and put that in, then run the engine for a bit otherwise the carb seals can dry out.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 14:34 - 29 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not winterizing. Probably Hibernating.
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dsg10715
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PostPosted: 18:13 - 29 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just winterizing. The Haynes says to drain the carbs if you are putting it away for a while. Probably 2-3 months given Berlin winter. Seems an easy process, is there a reason draining the carbs is not a good idea?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 19:38 - 29 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

dsg10715 wrote:
Just winterizing. The Haynes says to drain the carbs if you are putting it away for a while. Probably 2-3 months given Berlin winter. Seems an easy process, is there a reason draining the carbs is not a good idea?


Yes because the seals will dry out and harden, so when you put fuel back in it'll all leak out. the Haynes was written before the E85 fuel became common.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 19:41 - 29 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

dsg10715 wrote:
Just winterizing. The Haynes says to drain the carbs if you are putting it away for a while. Probably 2-3 months given Berlin winter. Seems an easy process, is there a reason draining the carbs is not a good idea?


No... winterizing is preparing for winter. Possibly to use in winter. Different tyres, fuel, heating, radiator dams etc. For extremes..

Draining the carbs is for storage purposes as fuel can breakdown and block little holes if stored long term.
And the other fear is incompetent float valves allowing fuel to drain into the cylinders and down into the sump.
The practice then is to close the petrol cock and drain any residual fuel from the fuel system by draining the carbs. (Float chambers).
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dsg10715
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PostPosted: 19:51 - 29 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah got it. But I cannot online or in the Haynes for the life of me find the petrol cock on the CBF model. Another poster indicated on this model, the P38, I didnt have to turn off the fuel as it was a vacuum?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 20:03 - 29 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

dsg10715 wrote:
Ah got it. But I cannot online or in the Haynes for the life of me find the petrol cock on the CBF model. Another poster indicated on this model, the P38, I didnt have to turn off the fuel as it was a vacuum?


Err... why would you need to turn off the fuel if you're not draining it? I don't think it has a petcock so much as a vacuum valve that opens when the engine is running.
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dsg10715
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PostPosted: 06:03 - 30 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still learning! So, i obviously just need to drain the carbs so the fuel deposit doesnt solidify in them and thats that ?
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Ste
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PostPosted: 07:24 - 30 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put the bike in your garage and then get it out again in spring. Job done.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 09:16 - 30 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

dsg10715 wrote:
Still learning! So, i obviously just need to drain the carbs so the fuel deposit doesnt solidify in them and thats that ?


No.... Put fuel stabiliser in, run it a bit, then leave it. DO NOT DRAIN THE CARBS!

https://www.putoline.com/en/catalogue/product/308/fuel-stabilizer/2031/
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dsg10715
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PostPosted: 10:00 - 30 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dude, Haynes says drain the carbs. My mechanic says drain them. Why do you say i should NOT drain them
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 11:16 - 30 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not drain the carbs (they may have some crap in them?)and then add a fuel stabiliser give the bike a shake and run the engine.
I use LUCAS FUEL STABILIZER .
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 11:22 - 30 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

dsg10715 wrote:
Dude, Haynes says drain the carbs. My mechanic says drain them. Why do you say i should NOT drain them


I was in a Dyno place about four weeks ago. They said they had a customer who had to have his carbs cleaned each year because he didn't ride it. So they did it for about three years in a row. They kept telling him to ride the bike more. He said he would, but then the next year he had the same issue.

This got to the point where they suggested trying to drain the carbs. So he did that.

Then the following year, he had to spend 4x the price of having the carbs cleaned because all of the rubber seals in the carbs had dried out, and fuel flooded out over the float bowls.

So the moral of the story? Don't drain the carbs, and if you can ride the bike more.
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dsg10715
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PostPosted: 11:50 - 30 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ride it 30 min a day on average
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 11:57 - 30 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

dsg10715 wrote:
I ride it 30 min a day on average


*facepalm* clearly not if you're going to drain the carbs and store it for winter!! sheesh.

He meant ride it more and don't store it for winter!

One assumes English is not your first language? As you seem to miss what people have written and misunderstand quite a bit...?
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Ste
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PostPosted: 12:19 - 30 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

dsg10715 wrote:
2-3 months given Berlin winter
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dsg10715
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PostPosted: 17:42 - 30 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, no Marjay. English is my mother tongue and have the graduate degree to prove I can deploy it. One might argue if you read through everything that there are competing viewpoints presented here.

Whilst one argues that winterizing doesnt refer to storing it (although you will find well heeled moto journals like Revilla, Ari Henning et al do use the term winterizing not to denote preparing to ride through snow but rather to not ride at all while winter is upon us) lets spot the poster with the alternate definition of winterizing and call it storing.

Alerting the poster with the dyno-never-ride-it-bike-carb cleaning job for three years- to the fact that I do ride it regularly; so that particular tale might not be pertinent to this discussion which I initiated.

Similarly, perhaps the Haynes is referring to a lesser grade of gasoline as another poster maintains, and thus their exhortation to drain the carbs might be antiquated, I am trying to reconcile the advice of some to drain the carbs (like my mechanic Box 44 in Berlin) with others who say dont drain them.

At any rate, throughout this thread opposing viewpoints are being professed as the absolute right way.

That, and not the Kings, is what I am slightly confused about.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 19:16 - 30 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

I understood the primary reason for draining carbs before storage is just to eliminate the chance of a leaking float allowing the tank to drain into the sump.
The additional effect of that would be washing lubricant off the cylinder wall/s and rings exposing the surfaces to moisture in the air resulting in rust.

Modern bikes don't have a pet-cock and use a vac-valve or electrically operated solenoid valve.

Petrol will degrade if stored for long enough or if it is allowed to evaporate. (Not all the product evaporates leaving residue.
As far as I have actual experience of 'storage I brim the tank, connect a ctek charger and you a bike cover over the cnut. (Might put a chain on it too.)

If you are putting away for months and months then there is a very detailed process to 'moth-ball' a bike.
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