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CBF600N P38 2006 Winterize Question

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dsg10715
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Joined: 29 Dec 2017
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PostPosted: 19:29 - 30 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats very helpful thank you
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 19:58 - 30 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you ride every day, why the heck would you drain the carbs??? Sheesh.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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stevo as b4
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Joined: 17 Jul 2003
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PostPosted: 20:14 - 30 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

If storing a bike over winter, I always drain the tank, the carb and run the bike with either the fuel turned off, or with the fuel tank removed until it stalls.

If I'm keeping the fuel tank on the bike, I'd firstly let it drain fully and then close the tap and either add 1/2cup of of two stroke oil and shake it all around, or spray half a can of water dispersant lube into it and do the same.

I don't buy the full tank and fuel stabiliser bollocks personally. I also like to try to use ethanol free fuel as much as possible. A two stroke will never start in 6months if you leave stale pre-mix in the carb to turn to gunge.

There's an argument for oil down the bores on a four stroke if not starting the engine for months. I don't usually bother, and with a two stroke the oily pre-mix will leave a nice film of oil all over the internals anyway. Some like to use a fogging additive or just run some 20:1 through the engine on tick over for 30seconds to oil everything. I never start a stored engine until it's time to get the bike out again. Monthly starts for 20mins of idling on the drive is a bike killer not a help.

But it's good to rotate the crankshaft a few times every month IMO just to stop the crank seals sticking, but again on a four stroke I'd not bother.

The most important thing on a stored four stroke engine, is to make sure you have oil pressure showing before you go to start it again.
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 20:46 - 30 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevo as b4 wrote:
If storing a bike over winter, I always drain the tank, the carb and run the bike with either the fuel turned off, or with the fuel tank removed until it stalls.

If I'm keeping the fuel tank on the bike, I'd firstly let it drain fully and then close the tap and either add 1/2cup of of two stroke oil and shake it all around, or spray half a can of water dispersant lube into it and do the same.

I don't buy the full tank and fuel stabiliser bollocks personally. I also like to try to use ethanol free fuel as much as possible. A two stroke will never start in 6months if you leave stale pre-mix in the carb to turn to gunge.

There's an argument for oil down the bores on a four stroke if not starting the engine for months. I don't usually bother, and with a two stroke the oily pre-mix will leave a nice film of oil all over the internals anyway. Some like to use a fogging additive or just run some 20:1 through the engine on tick over for 30seconds to oil everything. I never start a stored engine until it's time to get the bike out again. Monthly starts for 20mins of idling on the drive is a bike killer not a help.

But it's good to rotate the crankshaft a few times every month IMO just to stop the crank seals sticking, but again on a four stroke I'd not bother.

The most important thing on a stored four stroke engine, is to make sure you have oil pressure showing before you go to start it again.


But Stevo, he's just said he's riding it every day!!!!

dsg10715 wrote:
to the fact that I do ride it regularly;


He's not storing it, so I'm not sure why he'd want to drain the carbs. If he IS storing it, then why is he not following my advice anyway? *shrugs*.
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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MCN
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 20:53 - 30 Nov 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevo as b4 wrote:
If storing a bike over winter, I always drain the tank, the carb and run the bike with either the fuel turned off, or with the fuel tank removed until it stalls.

If I'm keeping the fuel tank on the bike, I'd firstly let it drain fully and then close the tap and either add 1/2cup of of two stroke oil and shake it all around, or spray half a can of water dispersant lube into it and do the same.

I don't buy the full tank and fuel stabiliser bollocks personally. I also like to try to use ethanol free fuel as much as possible. A two stroke will never start in 6months if you leave stale pre-mix in the carb to turn to gunge.

There's an argument for oil down the bores on a four stroke if not starting the engine for months. I don't usually bother, and with a two stroke the oily pre-mix will leave a nice film of oil all over the internals anyway. Some like to use a fogging additive or just run some 20:1 through the engine on tick over for 30seconds to oil everything. I never start a stored engine until it's time to get the bike out again. Monthly starts for 20mins of idling on the drive is a bike killer not a help.

But it's good to rotate the crankshaft a few times every month IMO just to stop the crank seals sticking, but again on a four stroke I'd not bother.

The most important thing on a stored four stroke engine, is to make sure you have oil pressure showing before you go to start it again.


Agreed. Idling bad. The battery can be drained and the excess fuel to start washes the cylinder bores.

Brimming the tank works perfectly.
The theory is that a full tank will not leave space for moisture laden air. Less air less water condensation.

An example from earthmoving business where oem recommendation is to fill tanks at the end of shift and not leave empty. Big surface areas attract condensation.

If the oil pump is engine driven how will you see any oil pressure before the engine is started?

😁

Do you mean drank it over with the plug leads off until there is oil pressure?
That would make sense.
But you may need a pressure gauge then too. 😟
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.
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dsg10715
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Joined: 29 Dec 2017
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PostPosted: 06:27 - 01 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

@Marjay, (sigh).
Riding the bike every day during good weather is one thing, and something I merely pointed out when you regaled everyone with your yarn about the guy who never rides his bike and thus gummed up his carbs and dried out the seals and thus the moral must be to never drain your carbs. While I dont think the moral of your dyno tale is as you have concluded, Im onto more important things.
Lastly, one can ride every day during good weather and store it for bad weather without contradicting oneself.
I will gently remind you the purpose of this thread was to determine whether one should drain the carbs when storing or winterizing or just not riding the bike for 2-3 months. The only evidence you provided for your dubious conclusion was akin to me saying ‘that guy ate salad with peanuts and was violently ill, so you should never eat salad with peanuts period!’ But you didnt do due diligence on the story and discover whether maybe the man in question had a nut allergy.
Ah, the Internet.
Peace out.
Thank you MCN for helpful thoughtful responses that aid me in determining the proper course of action.
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MarJay
But it's British!



Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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PostPosted: 12:28 - 01 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

dsg10715 wrote:
@Marjay, (sigh).
Riding the bike every day during good weather is one thing, and something I merely pointed out when you regaled everyone with your yarn about the guy who never rides his bike and thus gummed up his carbs and dried out the seals and thus the moral must be to never drain your carbs. While I dont think the moral of your dyno tale is as you have concluded, Im onto more important things.
Lastly, one can ride every day during good weather and store it for bad weather without contradicting oneself.
I will gently remind you the purpose of this thread was to determine whether one should drain the carbs when storing or winterizing or just not riding the bike for 2-3 months. The only evidence you provided for your dubious conclusion was akin to me saying ‘that guy ate salad with peanuts and was violently ill, so you should never eat salad with peanuts period!’ But you didnt do due diligence on the story and discover whether maybe the man in question had a nut allergy.
Ah, the Internet.
Peace out.
Thank you MCN for helpful thoughtful responses that aid me in determining the proper course of action.


That story was about a guy storing the bike over winter. The original advice was to ride through winter.
____________________
British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.
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MCN
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Joined: 22 Jul 2015
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PostPosted: 17:26 - 01 Dec 2018    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't store it. Buy a heated waistcoat, waterproof and insulated gear and 'Winterize' yer sel.

Just keep it off the road when high winds, Big storms ice or snow is forecast.
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Disclaimer: The comments above may be predicted text and not necessarily the opinion of MCN.
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