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New Rider Buying Keeway Superlight 125 (non-kinky edition)

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Thenuclearcat
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Joined: 31 Aug 2020
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PostPosted: 22:32 - 31 Aug 2020    Post subject: New Rider Buying Keeway Superlight 125 (non-kinky edition) Reply with quote

Hi everyone!

I'm currently planning on purchasing a Keeway Superlight 125cc new from a local dealership (around £2150) and wanted to know if anyone had absolutely any forewords about it (and riding for new bikers in general).

My main interest in the bike is the fact that it seems somewhat more comfortable than others available (it'll be used for commuting around 20 miles a day into central London and back and as someone wider, it's important). Also, I have a strong interest in DIY work on machines (I really enjoy working on my current car and am not afraid to take something apart to find a fault). However, as my experience is solely with cars, is there anything I should prepare for or keep an eye on?

I'll probably be getting some variety of aftermarket satchels too!

Anything from the obvious to the obscure would be a real help, the web is really lacking on individual reviews on this bike imo!

Also, not to sound completely green to the whole riding thing, but I've also compiled a list of riding gear and if anyone has any comments or additions I've not considered, I'd really appreciate it!

- Flip up motorcycle helmet (spectacles wearer)
- Armoured riding gloves
- Waterproof overtrousers (not made for motorcycles)
- Waterproof insulated jacket (also not made for motorcycles)
- Extra riding pads (shins, knees, and elbows)
- Steel soled and toed boots
- Wiggly rubber cord (to attach to keys to try keep them safe from snatchers)
- Mini helmet dashcam

I've been told that full armoured riding attire is likely overkill, especially as waterproof pullovers also mean I can wear office wear underneath.
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Ayrton
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PostPosted: 22:54 - 31 Aug 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sure others will say the same thing and I hate to sounds like a cunt, but dont buy one of those brand new that's practically throwing money away on depreciation. If you really want one of those then go pick up a 2 year old one for around £1000 and put the rest of the money towards decent kit. Although honestly I'd say a wiser choice would be to go for a tried and tested Japanese bike like the Yamaha YBR custom (i'm sure there are plenty of other cruisers, but it's not my kind of thing Laughing ). I would do 100 mile trips on my non-custom YBR without any comfort problems.



You also want gear that's designed for a bike, not some random insulated jacket. If your trying to save money then find some second hand.
Also depending on your office attire rules you can find some stuff that's suitable to wear. I ride to work in casual/ trainer style bike boots and armoured bike jeans and then wear that all day.
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struan80
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PostPosted: 00:09 - 01 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy a second hand CBF would be my advice. Won't lose any money on it and most likely sell it for more than you bought it for. Then half way to a deposit on a ZZR1400.

Last edited by struan80 on 00:38 - 01 Sep 2020; edited 1 time in total
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 00:23 - 01 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome! Excellent choice of bike, that was my first one Smile Now the bad news...

From new they're overpriced, unless you're aiming to keep it forever and even then. What you're getting is arguably one of the best Chinese interpretations of the cruiser aesthetic but it's not better quality than any other Chinese bike. It's not particularly powerful and slightly on the heavy side for a 125. Anyhoo, we're probably not going to persuade you to get something else so what to look out for:

From my experience, for a 20 mile commute, it'll be comfortable but any more than that and you'll realise the seat is way too soft. You'll find it likes to cruise around 50mph, plenty for around the city but merely adequate for NSL.

Maintenance mostly revolves around a good coating of ACF50, regular oil changes and valve clearance checks. Unless they've changed anything recently most of the connectors and switches aren't sealed so things like the front brake and kickstand switches can go wonky even within a year.

Be aware though this is a faux-cruiser: it isn't particularly big and doesn't offer much to the... errr... larger gentlemen over any other 125. Make sure you at least sit on one or even better get a test ride before committing.
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter
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Thenuclearcat
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PostPosted: 20:59 - 06 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually took on board the general advice and managed to find a very good condition 66 plate for under £1500.

I've been getting to grips with how the choke functions and I'm a little confused as to what the other silver twister is thats nearby the choke. It can be twisted halfway and is made of metal, if that at all helps?


Any experience with this?
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NJD
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PostPosted: 21:05 - 06 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thenuclearcat wrote:
Any experience with this?


One of these?

https://www.bertrumsbikebits.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/814989.jpg

Clutch cable adjuster if so. The large silver ring should be up against the handlebar and tight (hand tight, and then a little more with a pair of pliers is my method -- depending on hand strength). Make sure the hole in the middle of that ring does NOT line up with the long slot in the part its attached to (cable could jump out, in theory).

or a photo may help if not.

As for the choke go with full choke for first start of the day, starter button and then add a little twist of the throttle shortly after (letting go as soon as it starts) and then lower the choke accordingly. Get engine up to temp and check idle speed level (speed engine rests at with the engine running and bike in neutral -- after perhaps 10 miles or so, but probably less on a tiddler [read manual]) to prevent cold start issues.

There's a whole bunch of reasons why a carb'd bike can be hard to start, but most of it for now might be method. Can be harder as the weather gets colder so keep an eye out for that.
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Ste
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PostPosted: 10:48 - 07 Sep 2020    Post subject: Re: New Rider Buying Keeway Superlight 125 (non-kinky editio Reply with quote

Thenuclearcat wrote:
I've been told that full armoured riding attire is likely overkill, especially as waterproof pullovers also mean I can wear office wear underneath.

I'd exercise caution whenever listening to whoever told you that.

Waterproof pullovers offer no protection at all from abrasion so in the event of a crash, as you're sliding down the road they'll melt into a plastic mess that may or may not require removing from your road rash.

Textile motorcycle kit is waterproof and offers protection from abrasion. Thumbs Up
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arry
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PostPosted: 11:11 - 07 Sep 2020    Post subject: Re: New Rider Buying Keeway Superlight 125 (non-kinky editio Reply with quote

Thenuclearcat wrote:

- Flip up motorcycle helmet (spectacles wearer)

I've been told that full armoured riding attire is likely overkill, especially as waterproof pullovers also mean I can wear office wear underneath.


Full face helmet isn't an issue with glasses - you take them off, put them on your seat, put your lid on, and put the glasses back on after that. No biggie. Flip front helmets are generally more expensive, heavier, less safe and no more practical IMO.

As Ste already stated - you want proper protective gear that's going to protect you in an accident. Road rash is really, really not fun.
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Zen Dog
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PostPosted: 15:21 - 07 Sep 2020    Post subject: Re: New Rider Buying Keeway Superlight 125 (non-kinky editio Reply with quote

arry wrote:
Flip front helmets are generally more expensive, heavier, less safe and no more practical IMO.


I'm going to have to disagree on the expense and safety fronts. Caberg for example, are cheap and have excellent SHARP ratings generally. Whether they're more practical is a matter of opinion, I personally think they are, riding with a ciggy on the go is really hard with a full face, and not needing to take your lid off when buying fuel at suspicious service stations is a good thing. Very Happy Also, not strictly "practicality" but being able to have the front flipped up when pootling is really nice. They are generally heavier though.
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Current - '94 VFR750FR, '00 VFR800FI Previous - '10 Street Triple R, '92 MZ ETZ301, '05 TTR250, NSR125R, KMX125, "Honda" Win (chinese copy of an old Honda design with a C90 engine)
My bike trip around S.E. Asia 2010/2011


Last edited by Zen Dog on 20:11 - 07 Sep 2020; edited 1 time in total
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Thenuclearcat
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PostPosted: 19:01 - 07 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

So I've come to the discovery that it's the fuel petcock, although I'm still unsure as to where it should be pointing. I understand that the position dictates whether it's on reserve, cut off, or full open. I've switched it to pointing up but I'm unsure if this is correct.

Also, in terms of the choke, I can start the bike from cold on the lowest position but it won't idle. Starting on the middle position seems to work best, and it won't start at all point up. When in third, it really struggles to hit any speed above thirty, is this as a result of the choke being in the wrong position?

I'm sure this is a million times asked question, but I really do appreciate the help in this forum!

Oh, also, I've returned the waterproofs and spent about £200 on some armoured jeans (knees and hips) and a Richa Phantom 2 jacket. Pre-CBT me was a different man and I really don't feel safe being in a waterproof jacket anymore!

Thanks again for all the help!
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Zen Dog
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PostPosted: 19:16 - 07 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thenuclearcat wrote:
So I've come to the discovery that it's the fuel petcock, although I'm still unsure as to where it should be pointing. I understand that the position dictates whether it's on reserve, cut off, or full open. I've switched it to pointing up but I'm unsure if this is correct.

Also, in terms of the choke, I can start the bike from cold on the lowest position but it won't idle. Starting on the middle position seems to work best, and it won't start at all point up. When in third, it really struggles to hit any speed above thirty, is this as a result of the choke being in the wrong position?


Some pics would really help. There should be some kind of markings on the fuel tap (petcock) indicating which position is what.

As far as the choke goes, needing the middle position to start is fine, but once the engine is warm (if you wait a few minutes or ride half a mile or so) you should be able to turn it off entirely. It should run better/not do a flat out 30mph then.
____________________
Current - '94 VFR750FR, '00 VFR800FI Previous - '10 Street Triple R, '92 MZ ETZ301, '05 TTR250, NSR125R, KMX125, "Honda" Win (chinese copy of an old Honda design with a C90 engine)
My bike trip around S.E. Asia 2010/2011
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Thenuclearcat
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PostPosted: 19:30 - 07 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry, here is what I assume is the fuel petcock and in the position I've now moved it to. Originally, it was pointing down.

With the choke, is the highest position up off or completely open?
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Zen Dog
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 07 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thenuclearcat wrote:
Sorry, here is what I assume is the fuel petcock and in the position I've now moved it to. Originally, it was pointing down.

With the choke, is the highest position up off or completely open?


Ok, so assuming these work in the same way as MOST motorbikes, for the fuel tap, up is going to be on, in the middle is going to be off, and down is going to be reserve. Reserve by the way just allows the bottom inch or two of fuel in the tank to be used, and sometimes bypasses the fuel filter, there is no separate tank or anything. But because it may bypass the fuel filter and/or drain any crap that may be at the bottom of your tank, try not to use it unless you need to.

As for the choke, on most bikes I've come across, up is going to be the choke fully on, and down fully off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZX4lej9Oc0

This may be helpful for a general understanding. It's not the greatest video but the first one I found that covers the basic principle.
____________________
Current - '94 VFR750FR, '00 VFR800FI Previous - '10 Street Triple R, '92 MZ ETZ301, '05 TTR250, NSR125R, KMX125, "Honda" Win (chinese copy of an old Honda design with a C90 engine)
My bike trip around S.E. Asia 2010/2011
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 20:20 - 07 Sep 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, that petcock is super unhelpful! I don't think it actually has a reserve position as you have a fuel gauge on the tank. I would imagine lever up is off and lever down is on. You can always verify this by pulling the fuel pipe off the carb - don't have a ciggy on the go - but after a few minutes of riding you'll know which way is correct Very Happy

With regards to the choke I'm starting to have a new found appreciation of my old EFI Superlight Wink Is this a choke lever on the handlebars or at the side of the carb? For the former you might want to check the cable is moving freely and if there's any slack. Bless 'em but the Chinese aren't great at routing cables.

Other than that if you want a bike that you just jump on and go then that's what EFI is for (even so, most people let a bike warm up for a moment or two) so pissing about with the choke and throttle while the bike warms up a bit is par for the course.
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter
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