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Harvey788
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PostPosted: 16:25 - 18 Jan 2019    Post subject: Bike kangaroos down the road Reply with quote

Hi guys, first time posting on here but I bought myself a a hyosung gt125r however I’ve had quite a few issues with it.. I thought I finally had her running well when all of a sudden she starts to bog as soon as I put Her into gear.. she idles fine and then put it into first and the regs go all over the place.. often she will just cut out completely (and I don’t have a side stand switch) it happens when I’m driving, she’ll be driving fine and then she will cut out and start back up again on it’s own this will happen at any speed and any rpm but usually more so in the lower rpms this bike has become the Bain of my life and so I really need you guys to help me!!!!! Thanks Harvey
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 16:47 - 18 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like a cut out safety switch when your riding and not driving,
how many has the bike got ?
You may have to bypass all the switches to test.
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Harvey788
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PostPosted: 17:09 - 18 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’m not too sure, it’s a 2016 bike however a lot of the wires have been cut by the previousl owner.. but as I said it was running perfect for about 3 weeks
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MCN
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PostPosted: 17:54 - 18 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Side stand.
Clutch switch (If manual g/box).

May have been docked with and are loose/out of adjustment/broken.

Simple one is a loose wire to the ignition.

Or your riding like a hooligan off the rev-limiter. 😎
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 17:56 - 18 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

""she idles fine and then put it into first and the regs go all over the place.. ""

Are you touching / twisting the throttle at this point?
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Harvey788
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PostPosted: 18:39 - 18 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
""she idles fine and then put it into first and the regs go all over the place.. ""

Are you touching / twisting the throttle at this point?


No, all I do is hold the clutch and drop her into gear and she either cutaneous out, the revs go crazy, or she’s fine until I try to drive her Sad
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Harvey788
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PostPosted: 18:42 - 18 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Side stand.
Clutch switch (If manual g/box).

May have been docked with and are loose/out of adjustment/broken.

Simple one is a loose wire to the ignition.

Or your riding like a hooligan off the rev-limiter. 😎


It doesn’t have a side stand switch and what would a clutch switch do? My old Yamaha I could drive without a clutch (drove home without a clutch as the cable snapped) so I’m not sure it that’s the issue. I wish the bike would run good enough for me to drive like a hooligan! 😂
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P.
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PostPosted: 22:23 - 18 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

It not having a side stand switch is odd, as it has one to begin with, meaning ... You might wanna check what that looks like currently Laughing
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MCN
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PostPosted: 22:53 - 18 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harvey788 wrote:
MCN wrote:
Side stand.
Clutch switch (If manual g/box).

May have been docked with and are loose/out of adjustment/broken.

Simple one is a loose wire to the ignition.

Or your riding like a hooligan off the rev-limiter. 😎


It doesn’t have a side stand switch and what would a clutch switch do? My old Yamaha I could drive without a clutch (drove home without a clutch as the cable snapped) so I’m not sure it that’s the issue. I wish the bike would run good enough for me to drive like a hooligan! 😂


It's connected to the start system. If someone is fucking with wiring it might....
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 09:28 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forgive me - slightly confused.

Bog down/cut out. Describe them please?

Cut out means just stop working completely, instantly.
Bog down means doesn't matter that you twist the throttle - the revs slowly die and sometimes bounce back a little. It never fully cuts out though.

Which is it ^^
Is it both?
Is there a pattern to them? ie only happens when cold??
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Harvey788
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PostPosted: 09:30 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The worst part is, is that it only happens sometimes.. take yesterday for example, the bike was being a pain trying to drive to my friends in Watford.. took me an hour to do 14 miles as she didn’t want to run, so I took the air box off to see if there was a blockage as the exhaust fumes stink of fuel, this wasn’t the issue and she still bounced down the road.. as I was at a friends I put her back together and gave her another test to make sure she’s all together, still the same not running correctly, we went inside for about 2 hours and when I drove home for the whole 14 miles she ran sweet as a nut! Not a single issue with her! So now I’m even more confused as to why she “occasionally” doesn’t like me
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Harvey788
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PostPosted: 09:34 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sister Sledge wrote:
Forgive me - slightly confused.

Bog down/cut out. Describe them please?

Cut out means just stop working completely, instantly.
Bog down means doesn't matter that you twist the throttle - the revs slowly die and sometimes bounce back a little. It never fully cuts out though.

Which is it ^^
Is it both?
Is there a pattern to them? ie only happens when cold??


It’s both! When I’m driving say around 5-7 rpm (but happens at any rpm) she will bog, the revs will go back to zero, so I hold the clutch in give it some throttle and then she’s back fine.. but other times the revs drop down, I hold the clutch and give it some revs and she does nothing, so I have to stick it in neutral (while still on the move) and try and start her with the clutch in.
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 10:11 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK first things first - removing an air filter or box will mess up fuel mixtures badly. Aside from the obvious dirt getting in and damaging things, engines have parts which are balanced to give correct mixtures of fuel. You could completely ruin an engine by removing the air filter/box.

Righty. Have you checked the spark plug? Is the wire which leads to the spark plug in good condition?
It's a high voltage and will short out across a gap/break in the wire.
Is the cap which fits over the plug in good condition and unbroken?

An actual stink of fuel tells me the engine is running intermittently - that now and then the fuel is not being ignited and is leaving through the exhaust.
Checking the spark plug, lead and cap is the easiest check to start with.
If you remove the spark plug, could you post a photo of the end which goes into the engine please? We can check condition and how the engine is running just from that photo.
Edit: Don't clean it before sending a photo!
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:19 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: wiring Reply with quote

someone has been playing with the wiring........

so rectify/make good there bad work.

any water in the fuel??.

decide if its ign or fuel and go down that route.

do any of the lights etc play up when the handle bars are turned lock to lock??

red neon plug caps and adaptors so they can be fitted so you can ride the bike with them in place, do they stop flashing when the bike plays up??

this is probably the easiest method of checking the ign when riding the bike.
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 13:29 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like water in fuel. Undo the fuel hose into a clear litre bottle and see if there is a visible layer of water at the bottom.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 16:22 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

They do have a sidestand switch. The switches are also notorious for fucking up, even on new bikes.

They are commonly cut out. You may want to look and make sure that the wires are secure to each other, as if they intermittantly touching, you'll get what you describe.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 23:07 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

You've mentioned that you've been working on it a lot, and most of the wires were cut by the previous owner.

Now I don't know what you're mechanical ability is like, so I'm going to play it safe and expect you're awful with a spanner.

This means you ask asking us to diagnose problems with a bike that has been worked on by at least one retard, and probably more before that, being a 125.

Normal diagnosis will not work, that assumes the bike is in general good order and we are trying to find one cause for one problem. This bike is more likely to have many causes for many problems.

Step 1. Find all of the bodges and cock-ups on the bike, particularly in the wiring, and make them good. My money is on a bad wire connection, or cut wire, shorting out.
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Harvey788
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PostPosted: 23:14 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
You've mentioned that you've been working on it a lot, and most of the wires were cut by the previous owner.

Now I don't know what you're mechanical ability is like, so I'm going to play it safe and expect you're awful with a spanner.

This means you ask asking us to diagnose problems with a bike that has been worked on by at least one retard, and probably more before that, being a 125.

Normal diagnosis will not work, that assumes the bike is in general good order and we are trying to find one cause for one problem. This bike is more likely to have many causes for many problems.

Step 1. Find all of the bodges and cock-ups on the bike, particularly in the wiring, and make them good. My money is on a bad wire connection, or cut wire, shorting out.


Thanks, I’m quite mechanically minded thankfully, done a few Restos on cars and 90s bikes so I have a decent understanding. I actually planned on doing what you’ve mentioned and completed the first half of the fast today, I’ve started the strip down and so far have found so really shoddy wiring... it’s going to be a mission.. there are wires that lead to nowhere... like the run the full length of the bike but there’s nothing at either end of the wires.. two of them?!? Very confused by that.. so I’m going to take the tank off tomorrow (doesn’t have a petcock so fuel would’ve gone everywhere if I’d taken it off today) and check all the wiring looms and locate where each and every where goes too, as far as I can see there genuinely is no side stand switch.. no wires that go to it or a mount for one.. so that for sure rules that out for me
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 09:02 - 20 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harvey788 wrote:
... and locate where each and every where goes too, as far as I can see there genuinely is no side stand switch.. no wires that go to it or a mount for one.. so that for sure rules that out for me


As said, they are notorious on these bikes. Something as new as a '16 may not have had it chopped out yet, or it may have been done badly. You're looking for this.
https://www.hyosungspares.co.uk/collections/gt125r/products/genuine-side-stand-safety-switch-hyosung-gt125-gt250-gt250r

Manual here. Might be useful for tracing wwires.
https://hyoriders.club/forums/topic/download-gt-gtr-125-250-r-comet-service-manual-hyosung-owners-books/
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 11:35 - 20 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not unusual to have wires that aren't connected to anything because the same loom would be used for different models.

For example, my triumph has the connections in the loom for an alarm and abs. It left the factory with neither.
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Harvey788
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PostPosted: 13:01 - 20 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

As said, they are notorious on these bikes. Something as new as a '16 may not have had it chopped out yet, or it may have been done badly.

100% done badly, just been stripping out all of the electrics to see what dodgy wiring the guy had done before and it’s safe to say... it’s done seriously dodgy work! 😳 all the wires are stripped, there are no casing on thennnn so he’s just used electrical tape ans gone round each one and then gone over them both.. in some areas he’s tried to solder wires together that didn’t need to be soldered.. I’ve been riding a death trap! Going to Halfords now to pick up new plugs, wires and joins and some oil to be on the safe side ☺️
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 13:18 - 20 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Twisting wires and using self amalgamating tape, though frowned on, is typically better than using shit crimps, especially if there's no movement expected (away from the steering for example.)

I find your comment about soldering when you shouldn't bizarre.
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Harvey788
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PostPosted: 16:00 - 20 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:


I find your comment about soldering when you shouldn't bizarre.


Should’ve seen my reaction when I found it!

Also, I find the side stand switch... completely cut... so I’ve wired it back and see if she runs a little better
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 20 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure you degunk it properly, and keep an eye on it. As said, they're a right bastard on these models. I know several people with stock setups (for Warranty etc) that keep a spare on the bike, they're that bad. Most people get sick of it, and chop it out entirely.

However, the bikes themselves are fairly decent, if maintained.

Frequent oil and filter changes are something you'll get used to. They only take about 1L from memory, so it's not a huge expense.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:25 - 21 Jan 2019    Post subject: wires Reply with quote

Get an exact wiring diagram, you have wires, heat shrink, a soldering iron etc..

Side stand switch may have nothing to do with the ign system but starting system ( electric starter/cranking ), so bike cannot be "started" when in gear and side stand down and clutch out ( ie not pulled in to handlebar ) elose it will fall over, yes!

I your car world, have you come across flexing wires with make and break contacts INSIDE the wire, due to flexing.

Think, can this happen on a bike?????
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