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Wheelspin or gearbox dogs on a 110k mile cbr6?

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kramdra
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PostPosted: 13:49 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Wheelspin or gearbox dogs on a 110k mile cbr6? Reply with quote

I have been getting occasional events where she hits the limiter, but it does not feel like a loss of traction. It seems odd because it is in the higher gears, 4th and 5th most of the time. Almost always I will be accelerating and going up the gears, clutchless. Sometimes I get false neutrals/poping out, after changing up but does not repeat if I go up again.

Yesterday when this occured, there was the sound of chain slack being taken up as power returned to the wheel. It felt like the wheel sprung back, as it would in a highside.
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 15:58 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clutch slip.
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P.
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PostPosted: 17:34 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fisty wrote:
Clutch slip.


Sounds precisely like my old GSXR750 issue, which was clutch slip, only in 3rd at 50+
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 17:47 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
Fisty wrote:
Clutch slip.


Sounds precisely like my old GSXR750 issue, which was clutch slip, only in 3rd at 50+


Yup my old ZX9R had the same symptoms.
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Last edited by Fisty on 18:22 - 19 Jan 2019; edited 1 time in total
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kgm
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PostPosted: 17:54 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another vote for clutch slip. I'd expect clutch wear at the mileage. Easy to replace.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 18:37 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 600 used to have similar events coming off a particular roundabout onto a dual carriageway at this time of year when the roads are greasy. On the first occasion I thought it must be clutch slip because surely, with the slight lean I had on, I'd have felt a jolt if not high-sided? In fact the clutch was fine (now at 65k and still alright) and it was a no-drama event, just odd. The wheel spun up momentarily, then found grip in a smooth manner, although it felt more like a weird throttle issue. Either it happened so fast I didn't have time to respond in a ruinous way, or my all-year-round, daily-rider status back then (I've since got old and soft Embarassed) meant I had no fear and I just rode through it. Still, I agree 110k suggests a new clutch might be in order.
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Fin
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PostPosted: 18:38 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought cheap clutch discs for mine, around £10 from china for the lot and they've been absolutely fine. My old ones were actually fine (at 30k mile) but was slipping due to additives I put in with the oil.
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M.C
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PostPosted: 18:58 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

What oil was that?
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 19:45 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

M.C wrote:
What oil was that?


I would suggest that you ask what additives he put in...
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M.C
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PostPosted: 20:01 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I wasn't sure if he meant that or something like Castrol Magnatec but thought he'd clarify either way.
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Fin
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PostPosted: 20:21 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

M.C wrote:
Yeah I wasn't sure if he meant that or something like Castrol Magnatec but thought he'd clarify either way.


I don't remember what oil I had in there, either 10 or 5w 30 with a little bit of STP oil treatment.

My reasoning for doing this is that I read that huge fuckoff oil spreadsheet where the guy tested loads of oils and released the results. I guess it was done in the US as a lot of the oils aren't available over here. The top 11 or so on the list were thinner oils with an additive, the additive isn't available over here so I guessed the oil treatment was a similar thing.

I only put about 3 gulps in there (very slow pouring thick stuff).

I'm sure the bottle even says not to put in vehicles with a wet clutch but I didn't read it until afterwards. I was happy it had a very noticeable difference though. I need to do a bit more testing though before I'm confident it will work well in the project car I plan to build.
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 20:33 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fin wrote:
clutch was slipping due to additives I put in with the oil.
Fin wrote:
I was happy it made a very noticeable difference though.

Well alright then!
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting. I'd say most up changes have been clutchless, so the clutch plates should only have minimal wear?

Oil Im using Euro car parts Triple QX fully synthetic for the last couple years, as it was significantly cheaper.

Clutch looks like a PITA to do. without disassembly is it possible to measure/see wear with just the cover off?
Wont do damage if I ignore it?
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 22:04 - 19 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

As above clutch slip. It's the right time of year for gummed up cables though so your first port of call should be service the cable and set the free-play. If you pop the cable off at the cover end you should be able to make the lever flap in and out by pushing and pulling the cable end with very light pressure.
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:17 - 21 Jan 2019    Post subject: clutch Reply with quote

clutch slip and cable service, he dont use the clutch, clutchless gear changes.

Changing gear by crashing the dogs is not good, dogs chipped, worn, not dovetailed anymore and "jump out of gear/false neutrals"......
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 11:26 - 21 Jan 2019    Post subject: Re: clutch Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
clutch slip and cable service, he dont use the clutch, clutchless gear changes.

Changing gear by crashing the dogs is not good, dogs chipped, worn, not dovetailed anymore and "jump out of gear/false neutrals"......


There would be crunching, falling out of gear etc. It's going to be the clutch. They say motorcycle clutches last 50k, so if it's done 110k on the OEM original clutch, it needs a new clutch.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 11:44 - 21 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds like clutch slip to me too.
And at that mileage, pretty much a forgon.

Clutchless changes? Why do you think that they would 'save' clutch plate wear? Think about it... instead of taking pressure off the springs clamping the plates together, so that the plates have less load on them when the shafts try and spin them at different speeds.... making 'clutchless' changes... you leave the pressure on the plates... then boot the cogs through, and let the difference in shaft speeds spin the plates with full-engagement spring load on them when they rub.... if anything, making clutchless changes will wear the plates more rapidly, not less...

I have the feeling that it's the same clutch on the CBR6 as my CB750... lots of bits are.... in which case yes, its a PITA to replace. It's actually not that horendouse a job.... it's just the chuffing nut that holes the clutch together!!! Otherwise, its a case of dump the oil, wip out, I think six case screws to get the cover off, pull the clutch basket, undo the six M6's on the springs, remove plates, re-assemble with a new gasket.....

That nut, though is a bit of a bast. On the Seven-Fifty, I think that a couple of folk must have been in there before me, because If recall right, the nut, is an axial castle; Ie it engages on crenalations in the axis of the shaft, not from the outside, like you could undo with a C-Spanner, so you really do 'need' the Honda special tool.... I had a devils finding the right one for the Seven-Fifty, and I think that when I tracked on down it cost something daft like £30... but WELL worth it.... as said, I was not the first to tackle the thing, and some-one had had a go with a chissel.... so the nigins on the castle not were rather butchered, and the lock-wasjher had been bend over more than once or twice, and was rather chewed and the only thing really holding the not-so tight mangled nut on the shaft!!!! If doing the job again / on similar bike; I'd splurge on a new nut and washer from DSS (as I had to on that one ISTR) before I started, along with the proper nut-spanner.... make life easy and save trying to 'save' crackered old nut and washer, or wait to dinish job whilst they arrived in the post.

Otherwise, just remember to soak the new clutch plates in oil over-night, before building up the basket. It's a pretty straight forward job... other than that ruddy nut... but with the right socket? Piece of pizz I tell ya!
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 12:34 - 21 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another vote for clutch slip. Thumbs Up
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weasley
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PostPosted: 13:26 - 21 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Interesting. I'd say most up changes have been clutchless, so the clutch plates should only have minimal wear?


Most clutch wear comes from pulling away and from downshifts - these are the two area that slip the clutch the most (especially pulling away at high revs). Upshifts are pretty easy on the clutch even when it is used.

A 'bad' oil (by which I mean one that is incompatible with the clutch) could accelerate clutch wear by allowing more slip.
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Fin
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PostPosted: 08:31 - 22 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

kramdra wrote:
Interesting. I'd say most up changes have been clutchless, so the clutch plates should only have minimal wear?

Oil Im using Euro car parts Triple QX fully synthetic for the last couple years, as it was significantly cheaper.

Clutch looks like a PITA to do. without disassembly is it possible to measure/see wear with just the cover off?
Wont do damage if I ignore it?


Clutch is easy to do, you'll be able to see the top of most of the discs without taking the basket off but you won't be able to measure the discs properly.

If you ignore it and it slips a lot I believe you can warp the pressure plate, or maybe the metal rings between the discs. I'm sure it states in the manual to check something for warping when changing the clutch.

Here's a picture of what you'll see with the cover off and behold my beautiful creation of a clutch holder.

https://i.imgur.com/oEGvUKd.jpg
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MCN
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PostPosted: 09:32 - 22 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oil in a wet clutch is always critical.
I can't understand why folk continue to ignore OEM recommendation about equipment maintenance.
Like a few folk know better than the collective knowledge and wisdom of manufacturers who sell world wide.

Of course 'friction' modifiers will affect a friction device.
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Pete.
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PostPosted: 09:56 - 22 Jan 2019    Post subject: Re: clutch Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
clutch slip and cable service, he dont use the clutch, clutchless gear changes.

Changing gear by crashing the dogs is not good, dogs chipped, worn, not dovetailed anymore and "jump out of gear/false neutrals"......


Does he pull away and stop without using the clutch too?
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kramdra
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PostPosted: 01:29 - 23 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cable was getting crusty. Oiled and replacement ordered.
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Jayy
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PostPosted: 02:20 - 23 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a clutch go 3 times on a brand new R1 a few years back.

I also felt something like what you describe happen on my RSV4 RF which is coming up to 2 years old ( was only 1 year old when this happened ) and although it kind of felt like clutch slip as well, it was actually 3rd gear dog / gear shagged.
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