Kawasaki ER 5 issues

[pasari]

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Hi

I'm a new member and her again to biking.

I have an ER5 (1998 ) that has an issue I can't pinpoint

It won't go above 4-5k rpm when riding but stationary it does? It seems to stutter when trying to open the throttle. There is a tiny fuel leak when it's stood (no leak when riding it appears).

Installed a new carb diaphragm which has slowed the leak but created the Rev, stutter problem.

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks

Sam

[andy_uk]

Does the problem go away when it's fully warmed up?

Is it running on both cylinders? Mine used to have a habit of just running on one. That issue was solved by stripping down and giving the carbs a deep clean.

//edited to add:
The fuel leak is more than likely a combination of a faulty fuel tap (assuming you don't leave it on 'prime') and the cab floats not shutting fuel off properly.
If this is happening then there's a chance of fuel leaking in to the engine, diluting the oil...which isn't a good thing!
There's also the chance of the engine hydro-locking which could result in bent conrods etc.
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Aprilia Classic 125, GS500E, ER5-A1, ER5-C4, ER6 & an XJ6 project frame...

[jaffa90]

""Installed a new carb diaphragm which has slowed the leak but created the Rev, stutter problem. ""
I would get somebody to service the carbs and fuel tap as well.

[stinkwheel]

A new carb diaphragm would neither stop nor slow a fuel leak.

Have you checked your air filter recently?

If the fuel tap is leaking petrol, it could well have filled the airbox, and possibly the engine with fuel.

You should check this before riding it again because it could murderdeathkill you, or fluid lock the engine. My KLE500 (same engine) had a leaking needle valve and there had definately been a fire in the airbox while I was riding it, there was a fucking great hole melted in it. Luckily, it must have put itself out again.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[ThunderGuts]

Assuming you don't have a split fuel pipe somewhere . . . as said above, there are two "blockers" on allowing fuel to the engine when it's not running;

- The carb (float valve); these are prone to being blocked by crud
- The fuel tap; these don't have a physical off and instead use a vacuum diaphragm when in the "on" position (if you have it on "PRI" it'll let fuel through all the time) but can get gummed/firred up and the valve won't seal properly

I have had both problems and you need to have both simultaneously for the fuel to leak into the carb/engine. First things first, if you have no leaks on your fuel pipework and the leak seems to be mysteriously coming from somewhere in the middle of the engine, don't run it as fuel could be flooding the cylinders and/or diluting the oil. Things to do;

- Check the fuel tap is "ON" or "RES" (sorry, obvious I know!)
- Has the oil level risen (indicating it's being mixed with petrol)
- Take the air filter out and see if it is wet and/or smells strongly of fuel

If either of the latter two apply, I'd suggest you have a problem with both the tap and the float. If you take the tap off (drain your tank first obviously!) and take it apart you will see if it's nice and clean or mucky. You can test it's sealing by attaching a bit of fuel hose to the input of the "ON" and "RES" nipples and blow through; it shouldn't let anything past without a vacuum on the airbox pipe. If mucky you'll want new seals; you can buy a tap service kit off ebay for about £25 and it's not hard to service (might involve carefully removing deposits from the valve seats but it's nothing too intricate). Then you'll want to clean the carbs - slightly more involved process but it's all logical and as long as you note down everything you should be OK (be very careful with the rubber-tipped float valves as they're fragile and expensive!).

My money is on the carbs causing your power loss issue; if they're crudded up then they might not be sealing properly and in turn that crud might be inhibiting fuel flow past them, not an issue at low rpms and engine demand but if you open it up then the fuel might not keep up with the demand and the float bowls empty. The fuel tap points towards your leak combined with the carbs.

FWIW, I had these issues on mine (not the power loss although mine gave issues so soon after buying it I don't think I even got the opportunity to test if that was the case anyway) and although I'd never done this before, I managed to strip the whole thing down and service it. It now runs fantastically.

This was the thread I created, might be something of use in it (my fuel like was a little more spectacular!);

https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=326176

Good luck and keep us updated with how you get on!
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TG.