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tara1234
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PostPosted: 03:40 - 22 Jan 2019    Post subject: Bump start and electrical questions Reply with quote

Hey just a few quick questions about bump starting.

1: Is using bump start as the primary way of starting the bike going to damage it. Doing it over and over everyday.

2: Does heating the bike up beforehand such as using a 12v electric blanket, that is powered from the battery and wrapped around the engine make it easier to start, as it wont be cold. I had trouble starting it on a night where the temperature was between -5C and 0.
But in the morning it started, then everytime I stalled it at traffic lights I only had to get off and push it forward about 1 bike length to start it. Which implies that when its warmed up its really easy to bump start.

Bike is a Honda NSR125 1997 2 stroke, no kickstart but bump start works. It has just had a top end rebuild before purchase.
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 08:18 - 22 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bump starting is fine - on a race bike.

Seriously just fix what’s wrong with your bike, it obviously has major issues if the electrical starting doesn’t work and it won’t even bump start in cold conditions.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 13:58 - 22 Jan 2019    Post subject: Re: Bump start and electrical questions Reply with quote

tara1234 wrote:
Hey just a few quick questions about bump starting.

1: Is using bump start as the primary way of starting the bike going to damage it. Doing it over and over everyday.

2: Does heating the bike up beforehand such as using a 12v electric blanket, that is powered from the battery and wrapped around the engine make it easier to start, as it wont be cold. I had trouble starting it on a night where the temperature was between -5C and 0.
But in the morning it started, then everytime I stalled it at traffic lights I only had to get off and push it forward about 1 bike length to start it. Which implies that when its warmed up its really easy to bump start.

Bike is a Honda NSR125 1997 2 stroke, no kickstart but bump start works. It has just had a top end rebuild before purchase.


Any ( otherwise good) engine will start easier when its warm

Just fix the damn thing
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MCN
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PostPosted: 17:50 - 22 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

It wont harm anything except the rider or third party if you lose control during the start manoeuvre.

Fix the problem.
Very Happy
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 19:29 - 22 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doesn't really sound as though it's worth fixing to me tbh!

Was owner expecting someone to say bump starting an electric start fully faired bike every time you want to ride it is an excellent idea?

I get feeling that OP knows they've bought a lemon/wrong bike for the job, but is too proud to do anything about it or just hates being told "I told you so".

Whats worrying the most is that having failed a test on a 125 with so many minor faults and the major, that they think they are still safe and happy to keep riding because they can do so without passing the test they bummed out on.

One word: Oblivious
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 01:21 - 23 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

stevo as b4 wrote:
Whats worrying the most is that having failed a test on a 125 with so many minor faults and the major, that they think they are still safe and happy to keep riding because they can do so without passing the test they bummed out on.


Not just carry-on riding, 'Learner-Legal' on CBT & L's, BUT, step up to a full-power A2 class 125, learner-illegal, as IF tests had been passed....

This isn't oblivious, this is reality denial!

tara1234 wrote:
1: Is using bump start as the primary way of starting the bike going to damage it. Doing it over and over everyday.

2: Does heating the bike up beforehand such as using a 12v electric blanket, that is powered from the battery and wrapped around the engine make it easier to start, as it wont be cold.

It has just had a top end rebuild before purchase.


Tara?..... the 'bits' to do a full and proper top-end rebuild on one of these are about what you paid for the bike, as it stands.

Lets be realistic here.. no-one will spend that kind of money, and put in that amount of work to do the job justice to flog-on for less than the job cost.

A-N-D... if they had the where-withal to do a propper top end rebuild, By way of skills, tools, time, patience and money..... Think for a minute.... having spent, oooh... £400 for new barrel and piston, or re-bore and new piston..... and had the work-shop space and tools to do the work needed to fit them.... REALLY, stripping a starter motor and replacing a pair of £20 starter motor-brushes, and replacing a £25 battery... REALLY aren't likely to be a 'big-deal' and they would have sold you the thing in fully, as in starts on the button, working condition.....

Lets be a LITTLE bit realistic here..... this thing HASN'T had a full and proper top end rebuild....

What you have bought, is a perennial project. It has, likely for the last decade or more, been punted between a string of optimistic owners all enthused with the presumed criminal-genius of a 'full-power' 24bhp sports-bike, they might slap on L's and ride without a licence; dissalusioned when they discover that you can only keep one running 'so' long on toffee-wrapper and tuppence mechanics, NOT doing full and propper top end rebuilds at car-oil-change intervals, and when that bullet bitten, and a top-end actually undertaken... it is a rebuild,. as in taken apart.... but nothing actually replaced, beyond maybe the piston-rings, because of how much all the propper-parts cost, and its cheaper to buy another bike.... cue the next optimist in the line.....

Potential damage from bump-starting? Lol.... you are perpetuating the perenial optimism, aren't you?

Reaslistically, the engineering opinion on that is, you are starting the engine by back-motoring through the gear-box.... the loads put on the engine from that are probably no higher than crashing down a couple of gears too early, and mechanically.... it's not good, but it's not catastrophic, and in the grander scheme, any damage, accelerated or premature wear that may be caused will pale into insignificance compared to the likely state of fkeredness the thing is obviously already in...

Biggest risk of damage is not from back-motoring the engine, but from the riusk you will drop it pushing, especially when knackered cos of hos much pushing it takes... and or jumping into the saddle of moving bike to load the back wheel and stop it skidding when you dump the clutch, and or not catching the clutch if it catches and wheeling into the back of a transit or something......

It is fitted with an electric start for a reason..... it should work.

As is, BIKE DONT WORK..... now stop making excuses and trying to kid us that it does, and its only, and all you need do is, etc etc etc.... BIKE DONT WORK. It dont start on the button, like the book says it should, and beneath that is likely a whole host of problems and niggles, that need sorting to make this a bike that does work, thatr you might use as a practical daily rider.... if you can get propper insurance and or a licence to ride the thing.

Wrapping it up in an electric blanket?

Do YOU really think that this is a solution to anything? Is this how you should have to treat a bike so it sort of works when you want it to?

It is more optimism layered on pure delusion..... the thing is a shed. It NEEDS a full and propper rebuild. It needs the starter system properly reconditioning, and THEN the rest of the bike looking at and tackling.

REALISTICALLY this is a full resto project base; and you are looking at having to spend around a year and £1000 IF you are lucky to being the thing up to par as an even remotely useable every-day rider.

One year and £1000......

I will ask again... have you sold the SR yet?

A-N-D... shelving optimism and delusion.... How would YOU rather spend a year and £1000?

Getting ever more frustrated by a bike that dont work? Playing with spanners and trying to untangle rotton wires? PROBABLY to get to a point of giving up, cos that £1000 and one year starts to mushroom.... along with dissalusionment....

OR is there a better ways about getting what you 'really' want? Another bullet that might be bitten?

LIKE perhaps chucking that £1000 into a full-length DAS course; getting up to speed with a propper big-bike, getting a tests, and a licence.... A-N-D being on the road, for summer, on the bike you really had your hopes set on, no spanners required?

Go see Snowie's Pup Project thread. That bike 'worked' when she bought it; and she was conned into thinking that it 'just' needed a new set of fork seals for MOT.... y-e-r-s..... a year and the price of a brand new YBR later.... she realised that 'maybe' these ideas were a tad erroneous! But still

Could be a nice bike at the end.... if you stick it out and do everything that really needs to be done, and do it properly... and could be a whole heck of a lot of learning to be had along the way..... BUT, the main lesson will be that project bikes almost always take more time, money and effort than they are worth; few ever actually get finished, and you are NO further forward with it, than you are now, as far as getting a licence and getting around......

So..... do you want to continue down this road of madness? If not, what bullets have to be bitten, and which are more or less palatable?

I'll ask again.... Have actually you Sold the SR yet?
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MCN
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PostPosted: 06:24 - 23 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

So there you have it, in a nutshell.
Very Happy
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Ste
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PostPosted: 09:05 - 23 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://i.imgur.com/x8K2AOm.gif
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 10:09 - 23 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thunk whilst I boiled the kettle...... a 12v electric blanket! LOL!

I used to keep a 12v kettle in the car; it was about 150W if I recall. It took around half an hour to get a cup of cold, note cold, not 'frozen' water up to luke warm coffee temperature.... and that was with the engine running... cos if it weren't... the dang thing would flat the BIG car battery enough not to be able to re-start the thing after!

Just for reference; In Canada, where I learned to drive as a teen, they had three-pin sockets on parking-meter poles, with a parking-meter-like coin machine on top. If you left your car parked outside in the street or a public parking lot, you could plug a 'sump-heater' into the meter, to keep the motor from freezing solid whilst you were gone. Basically, there was a 1000W kettle element in the oil-filter! Other cold-climate precautions, like for Land-Rovers, was an actual kerosine heater that pretty much did the same, but burned diesel from the fuel-tank to keep the motor warm... Another ways around, in cold climes, was to carry a small camping stove, and when you park up, to light it and pop that under the sump, to keep the engine warm....

Take note, 'Keep Warm' NOT actually get it from sub-zero freezing temperatures up to the 88Deg warm, where the thermostat might open, and engine might be more inclined to 'start'.

BIT of maths for you, Watts is Amps times Volts.... the battery if new, if good, if fully charged, is rated at 'maye' 9Amp hours... that's 9 amps for an hour... 9 Amps, times 12 volts is 108 Watts...

Lets be realistic here.... IF you could find a 12v electric blanket.... it aint going to make the heat you need to lift the temperature of the engine block to the point it would be any easier to start.....

100 Watts? That's ALL the little bike battery could shove out, if good, and well charged, which I think we have established it aint. That will make about as much heat as a domestic light-bulb, which may get too hot to touch, but it aint going to make your toast.....

How much water is in the radiator? Now compare that to a cup of coffee.... that is how much water, you need to get from near freezing to near boiling.... now add the cold metal it also has to heat.... Even a 240 volt electric bed blanket, on a 13A plug from the mains, ISN'T really going to cut it here!

You would be better off, pouring sauce-pans full of boiling water, from the kitchen stove, over the block... which, I have to say HAS been resorted to on occasion, especially on the fuel-filter of old desiesil commercials, in the past.....

BUT... it aint fixing 'The problem' which is that this bike be kerfkered, and in need of a lot of remedial maintenance; and even if you resorted to such drastic tactics, its NOT going to make the bike any 'better'... that remedial will still be needed and the longer you leave it, the more you fudge it and try work-arounds, the worse it's going to get, whilst you DONT actually get the use you really hope for or need from the thing, because it just dont work.

Its dead horses, and how much flogging you have to do before you admit to yourself it be dead!

But electric blanket off the knackered bike battery! Lol.... That is taking optimism and delusion to an entirely new level that is!
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:00 - 23 Jan 2019    Post subject: ????? Reply with quote

Does heating the bike up beforehand such as using a 12v electric blanket, that is powered from the battery and wrapped around the engine make it easier to start, as it wont be cold. I had trouble starting it on a night where the temperature was between -5C and 0.

From where do you get the 12v power, from the bikes battery? using up its "power" in the process.......an external powered blanket or nice warm lock up then yeah, but fixing the bike would be a much better solution.

You need a very long mains lead if the bike is 12 miles from home!

Why does the starter not work??

I bet the bike has a self contained ( non battery dependant cdi ign system, battery only needed to whizz the engine over to get that system to self sustaining running )

When you press the starter button when the ign switch is in the "on "position, what happens ?

Bike is a Honda NSR125 1997 2 stroke, no kickstart but bump start works. It has just had a top end rebuild before purchase.

how long have you had this bike and from where did you buy it??

Are you female, it doesnt matter really but females usually " ask" stuff when they dont know, and make much better "mechanics" as they are not afraid to ask and have a point to prove the "boys" "idiots" when they are.

A different sort of "ego".

Find out whats wrong with the bike, you know of cmsnl for the exploded views and there may well be a manual on here, if not, get one. You have a multi meter?? and some basic tools??

Is the bike under warranty????????

https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/honda-nsr125r-1997-v-england-starting-motor_bigecbsweae__0700_02c2.gif

find your exact bike on cmsnl and go from there
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:17 - 23 Jan 2019    Post subject: info Reply with quote

See what i mean about cmsnl, it will show you stuff like.....the starter motor, roughly where the starter solenoid is and that it has one, a side stand switch and if it has one, a clutch switch and if it has one etc. etc. etc..

Why would it have these parts do you think, and are they to do with the electric starter??

A wiring diagram would aslo be so so so helpfull, there may be one on here.....

Is the bike under warranty?
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 13:12 - 23 Jan 2019    Post subject: Re: ????? Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
how long have you had this bike and from where did you buy it??

Check her post history. It's a long and winding tale.

She bought the SR125 to get around and 'build (probably bad) experience before taking tests, under DAS for which she is old enough for full RWYL 'A'.

She booked a taster lesson with bike school; and was told they wouldn't put her on their DAS bike for tests... she needed a full and proper course of training... or she could take tests on her SR for A1 125-only licence.... which she did.... and failed...... for repetitive problem with round-abouts, over which she grumbled at the examiner repeatedly taking her around round-a-bouts....

Meanwhile.... she posted asking about an NSR vs a CBR...... with some rather bizare notions that having past A1 tests..... that a tuned CBR or a full-power NSR, might be a sort of step towards getting big-bike experience for A2 or RWYL'A;' tests, and actually asked if she could 'restrict' the NSR to be A1/Learner-Legal.

Having been told that the NSR is not learner legal, and as an italian grey-import she'd be lambed with a double loading on the insurance, for it a) being an Italian Import and b) being modified from that known standard to possibly be A1/Learner-Legal. Also told that it's wopping 24bhp and extra 20Kg of weight were rather immeterial to getting experience for big bikes with twice or more that power, and half as much again, to double the mass....

She bought it ANYWAY....... we presume, because at a claimed £500, barely scrap value, it was too good an apparent bargain to walk away from....

SO...... as of now....

We assume she is trying to ride it 'as is', and work around the obvious faults that the thing has, which she seems ardently determiner NOT to fix, but find a work-around for, whilst blaming the weather and anything else for the problems, not the bike.

She is equally determined to believe the seller's claims it has had a full and propper top end rebuild....... so by inference the whole bike, bar the starting system, she wanted to believe was just a duff battery.... is 'good' and the bargain she presumed when against all advice she insisted it was a good idea to buy this learner-illegal, to ride on L-Plates..... Rolling Eyes with whatever kiddology she similarly presumes, that it's a good step towards a higher licence and higher licence bike, and that riding 'as is' in a kerbluggered state, without a licence to do so, and without proper insurance to do so.... is some-how a great plan.....

The ostrich impression is strong with this one......
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Current Bikes:'Honda VF1000F' ;'CB750F2N' ;'CB125TD ( 6 3 of em!)'; 'Montesa Cota 248'. Learner FAQ's:= 'U want to Ride a Motorbike! Where Do U start?'
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:11 - 24 Jan 2019    Post subject: history Reply with quote

sometimes life is just toooo short tef, happy new year by the way
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 11:25 - 25 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

So tara have you bitten the bullet yet and found out why the bike wont start on the electric starter??

I bet your fed up bump starting the beast now!

Hows your chain and back wheel?
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stirlinggaz
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PostPosted: 15:22 - 25 Jan 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,
Ignore 90% of what is written above, the guy who writes too much obviously knows little about the nsr 125.
The charging circuit on the nsr is notoriously weak & prone to problems.
The electric start hammers it, the rc system confuses things & the starter motor is placed in the best place for it to get full of water & sh*t from the road.
& if the battery isn't in excellent condition & fully charged, it will have all sorts of weird starting & running issues, making you think its other things.
It's usually not. It's normally the battery or the stator itself.
This is why I recommend changing every bulb you can for leds, to give that weak charging circuit a bit of a chance.

Time to get the multimeter out & run some basic tests.

Your more than likely gonna need a new battery, definitely a new spark plug & hopefully not a new stator.
You will be able to tell a LOT from these tests.


cheers,
GAZ
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