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Correct engine oil please Honda CB 250 RS 1981

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St George
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PostPosted: 18:44 - 04 Mar 2019    Post subject: Correct engine oil please Honda CB 250 RS 1981 Reply with quote

Cannot find which oil I need for the engine, not even in the owners manual or selling on ebay. The 250 twins seem to have 10-40 Synthetic, can someone confirm please. Thanks.
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 18:55 - 04 Mar 2019    Post subject: Re: Correct engine oil please Honda CB 250 RS 1981 Reply with quote

St George wrote:
Cannot find which oil I need for the engine, not even in the owners manual or selling on ebay. The 250 twins seem to have 10-40 Synthetic, can someone confirm please. Thanks.

Go with a cheap semi 10w40.
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St George
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PostPosted: 19:05 - 04 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for that. Got some in the cave.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 23:51 - 04 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really, whatever you can find in the shed will be adequate. From the book, you could technically run them on straight 30 weight oil for the UK climate.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 00:49 - 05 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

This looks the business,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shell-Advance-AX7-10W-40-4T-Motorcycle-Engine-Oil-Semi-Synthetic-4-Litres-4L/252707967332?epid=24017001895&hash=item3ad6919164:g:yFAAAOSw4CFYquN3:rk:7:pf:0

What about the filter?
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Robby
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PostPosted: 09:21 - 05 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

No filter on the CB250RS, just a wire mesh under the clutch cover.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 19:27 - 07 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
No filter on the CB250RS, just a wire mesh under the clutch cover.


Indeed. Which DOES need cleaning periodically, one of the few ways to kill an RS is to never clean the oil gauze.

I'd also suggest changing the oil more frequently than you need to. It's cheap and doesn't hold much.
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Howling Terror
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PostPosted: 00:11 - 08 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

..to add; Get a magnetic sump bolt....every little helps.
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 00:50 - 08 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Really, whatever you can find in the shed will be adequate. From the book, you could technically run them on straight 30 weight oil for the UK climate.


^^^ This

Oil has become very complicated these days (possibly unnecessarily so) but back then, it was pretty simple.

There were single weight oils and multi grades, the market for which was dominated by 20w/50, any other multi grade was very exotic and reserved for racing engines.

If you have a bottle in your shed that says "engine oil" on it, chuck it in there and change it every 1000 miles or so, not forgetting to clean out the gauze, as Stinkwheel mentioned.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 11:30 - 08 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shaft wrote:
Robby wrote:
Really, whatever you can find in the shed will be adequate. From the book, you could technically run them on straight 30 weight oil for the UK climate.


^^^ This

Oil has become very complicated these days (possibly unnecessarily so) but back then, it was pretty simple.

There were single weight oils and multi grades, the market for which was dominated by 20w/50, any other multi grade was very exotic and reserved for racing engines.

If you have a bottle in your shed that says "engine oil" on it, chuck it in there and change it every 1000 miles or so, not forgetting to clean out the gauze, as Stinkwheel mentioned.


I have a few of those in my shed however I'm not too sure what's actually in them. Laughing

But yes, as everyone says. Any bog standard mineral oil or semi syn will be fine.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 12:58 - 08 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

1000 mile oil changes are important. I used a little quick-drain tap for a drain plug, because if I was doing oil changes that often I would definitely end up killing the threads on the drain plug. It does help that the drain plug screws into the crankcase cover, which is easily replaced.

The gauze filter needs to be cleaned occasionally, but it doesn't really catch all that much. It has fairly big holes.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:54 - 09 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would recommend fitting a bonded seal (dowty) washer to the sump plug in place of the aluminium/copper crush washer, then you just need to nip it up to be totally oil tight.

In fact, I'd recommend it for all bikes.
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St George
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PostPosted: 16:18 - 09 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I cleaned the standard surfaces and used the blue jointing compound the day before I put the oil in. Oil tight. The bike will go on ebay in any case to make room for others in the wings. Thanks for imput.
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