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Any exhaust specialists that can advise...?

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Mr Hammers
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PostPosted: 21:07 - 11 Mar 2019    Post subject: Any exhaust specialists that can advise...? Reply with quote

So, i bought new cans for the Triple, and posted about them here.

Now, as good as they look, and as good as they sound, they are unbearably loud, even with the baffles in.

I called SP Engineering today and spoke about it with a woman there. She said in the past others having the same issue tried blocking the holes around the main outlet pipe. So when i got home, i did just that;

https://www.planetash.net/bcf/cans/triplebaffles.jpg

Double nutted the bolts and peened the ends so i don't end up having to remove the main pipe if a nut comes off. It is slightly quieter now, but still too loud for my liking.

https://www.planetash.net/bcf/cans/triplebafflesend.jpg

So, i was thinking about modifying the existing baffle to try and dampen down the noise a bit, or at least take the 'crack' out of it.

I know virtually nothing about cans and the physics of them, but i was wondering if something like this would work in bringing the volume somewhere between these cans and the stock ones.

A is the baffle, B is baffle packing, and C is a round plate that would be welded to the end of the baffle tube.

https://www.planetash.net/bcf/cans/triplecanplate.jpg

I did try some baffle packing in them left over from another job, and it seemed to dampen it quite well, but that was just temporarily wrapped around the tube and shoved in. Obviously during normal riding it would just end up working it's way down into the cans without a plate and/or some wire or mesh around the packing to hold it in place.

I don't mind losing the supposed bhp gains they bring, if it means i don't wake up half the neighbourhood every morning at 7am.

My question is: would this be a good way to do it, or is there another way? Like extending or shortening the baffle tube, and/or drilling holes in it then wrapping in baffle packing to disperse the sound..?

Hoping someone who knows the ways of these things can give us some helpful advice.

Cheers!
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Fisty
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PostPosted: 21:32 - 11 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

With gaping holes like that they are never going to be quiet.

Buy some quieter cans.
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Mr Hammers
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PostPosted: 21:57 - 11 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fisty wrote:
With gaping holes like that they are never going to be quiet.

Gaping..? The end hole is only about 20mm, and they're even larger on the stocks. Smile

Quote:
Buy some quieter cans.

Well, i'm kind of stuck with these now. If i sell them i'd be lucky to only lose around £50 or so, and i can't really afford to buy another pair, tbh. The stock cans are ok, but too quiet, (and too fat), so i'm determined to find a way to do this. Just wish i knew more about exhaust physics.
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 22:09 - 11 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are the cans actually road legal?
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Mr Hammers
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PostPosted: 22:51 - 11 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

No. The XLS versions are, they're about 50mm longer. I would've gone for those but they stick out beyond the tail light and look a bit daft.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 23:03 - 11 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not the best design. What you want, and I did myself, is a pipe with closed of end and holes drilled into the pipe along side. That way the ''noise'' has to travel further distance and bounce of the inner pipe before it gets through those holes and out back. With the pipe fully open the noise reduction is negligible, unless that is what you want to achieve, stupidly loud let appearing road legal at the same time.

Like so,

https://www.megalevnepneu.cz/fotomp/783.18.37.jpg
https://img.skutry-levne.cz/41d48e526f04e6b742c5b4e32b09b17ef1a53098/thickbox/vlozka-db-killer-turbo-kit-maxi-skutr.jpg
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:12 - 11 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could try sticking another (minimalist and fairly wide) removable baffle in from the other end. So the ends of the two baffles overlap. Then you'll have a kind of z-flow effect.

In fairness, the "baffle" seems very straight meaning the gas is probably passing right through the end can and out of the end without slowing down in the middle to expand. Any effective silencer baffles I've seen have a bit of a dog-leg in them.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 09:17 - 12 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

For a baffle to be effective it should do two things:

1. Increase the effective length of the exhaust system.
This is done by forcing the exhaust gas to change direction, or entirely reverse direction. A standard exhaust on a bike or a car is a fairly complex shape inside, more like a maze.

2. Force the gas through some kind of restriction.
This is usually baffle packing material, although it can also be a mesh or a catalytic converter. It works best if you can force the gas through the baffle packing material more than once. This is done by blocking up the inside of the baffle, but also putting a ring around the outside of the baffle so exhaust gas can't just go around the outside of it.

Can you buy proper db-killers? Making baffles that work at home is a fairly involved process, lots of trial and error. I only did it because no-one currently makes quiet silencers for one of my bikes.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 09:59 - 12 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

It does beg the question, if they are too loud why fit them? They LOOK loud...
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pig hog
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PostPosted: 14:38 - 12 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just wear ear plugs?
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 14:45 - 12 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, without a remap this'll ruin the fuelling...
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 15:17 - 12 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
Making baffles that work at home is a fairly involved process, lots of trial and error. I only did it because no-one currently makes quiet silencers for one of my bikes.


The ''my design'' was about making the holes bigger and bigger (reducing the restriction), as I was testing the motorcycle on the open road. In the end, I got it quite alright. It was a carbureted GPz550 and I have not touched the jets. The final result was pretty much:
Db killer in = very strong low to mid range (nice to ride in town), the top of the rev range felt like ''empty revs'', no need for ear plugs, no louder than average motorcycles.
Db killer out = quite the opposite, nothing at the bottom of the rev range, it felt like all of the torque started just 1000 rpm before the rev limiter, EAR PLUGS REQUIRED!

*worth mentioning the exhaust system had no silencers. I used to enjoy such things. Thinking

EDIT: I also made it small enough, so it would fit under the seat of the GPz. I usually started without it (to start the engine, I pushed the bike one street over, so I don't annoy my neighbours), having blast and all that and when that got tiring, I popped it in and rode home quietly.
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Last edited by RhynoCZ on 17:07 - 12 Mar 2019; edited 1 time in total
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 16:30 - 12 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

DB killers work but kill top end. My racebike made more power with the stock can (whisper quiet) than it did with a straight through can with a dB killer shoved in the end.
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MarJay
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PostPosted: 16:38 - 12 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is why I went with the Arrow low boy exhaust. It's noisy but not offensive. I then had the bike re-mapped and it's awesome now.

My old Daytona 955i made 90bhp with a baffle, and 115bhp without... THAT is how bad dB killers can be.
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RhynoCZ
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PostPosted: 17:02 - 12 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, without the R&D and knowledge it is a guessing game.

I also noticed my engine ran cooler without the dB killer, but I've done no measurements (air-cooled four stoke). It would be only logical though.
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 18:13 - 12 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

A stopped-up DB killer will make things a lot quieter, but will also most likely affect both valve overlap and exhaust excavation rate, and thus the performance of the engine. The only way to know how, or how much, is to measure the power output with it in and out. But who can be bothered with that? It's easier to just take it out when you want to play, and put it back in when you don't want to attract unwelcome attention.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 20:35 - 12 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have a multi chambered long race can type silencer with a sensible/ same as the collector pipe size baffle, then they can be quiet enough to be tolerable and acceptable. It does also depend on the material of the silencer and the thickness of the shell and how it's constructed. Sometimes carbon cans are quieter as they don't resonate so much as say stainless etc. But then again they can make the sound deeper which might feel like it's louder.

But the problem is that people want silly shorty/cut down cans, and you can't have short and quiet it doesn't compute.

Also as Blue said Db killers are nasty things and an afterthought, mainly to allow trackside noise testing limits to be met so you don't get sent home. They almost always produce less power than the standard reflective silencer and don't take peoples word for it, go to BSD racing's website and look at the case studies on different bikes and exhausts.

Also be prepared to make serious fueling changes especially on very modern EFI bikes for any exhaust modification, as they nearly always need alot of work to make them fuel how the engine designer would have intended.
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stevo as b4
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PostPosted: 20:39 - 12 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

If all else fails you could always fit a turbo, as that'll take a load of sound energy out of the exhaust system, and probably make it a bit quieter than std at low Revs. Laughing
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recman
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PostPosted: 22:34 - 12 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr Hammers wrote:
No. The XLS versions are, they're about 50mm longer. I would've gone for those but they stick out beyond the tail light and look a bit daft.


I think my carbon XLS look good.
I also went for them rather than the stubbys because having viewed a few YouTube videos, I knew they'd be too loud.
Tbh, mine are reasonable in terms of volume with the baffles in and ridiculous when they're out.
Earplugs are still a must though.
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biker7
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PostPosted: 00:14 - 13 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Too loud for you, or others as well? If just the former, I second earplugs (tip - Blue Tac works well!) Personally, I like loud. Maybe block the hidden end by boring a hole and bolting on an angle bracket and repair washer. Don't get rid - baffles are just blockages and easy to regulate.
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Mr Hammers
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PostPosted: 00:22 - 13 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers for all the input guys, much appreciated.

Well, the ride with the holes plugged this morning was a lot more civilised. Made a bigger difference than i'd expected. Also gave me hope for taking a bit more of the edge off the sound level by way of modding the baffle. Using the sound app on the phone, the sound levels (after plugging the holes) are down to about 80 when idling, and rising to 100 when revving the balls off it. If i can get it down to around the low 90s i'll be happy.

Got a week off next week, so i think i'll experiment with various baffle types and placement, in fact quite looking forward to it as it could be quite interesting.

recman wrote:
I think my carbon XLS look good.
I also went for them rather than the stubbys because having viewed a few YouTube videos, I knew they'd be too loud.


Yeah, ignore me, i've always had a bit of a thing about long cans, it's a pet hate. If you're happy though, i'm happy Smile

I did do some research, but i found it impossible to gauge just how loud via youtube vids. Even filming mine before i put the cans on (just straight through pipe) really gives no indication at all of the hellish, ear splitting noise they made. And by christ was it loud!

Stevo:
You're right, if you're going to have smaller cans be prepared for the extra noise...but i'm looking at it like this: the stock cans have to pass the rules so stifle the engine to keep the noise down. I'm prepared for a higher sound level, but not as loud as they are/were. Ideally i'd like somewhere in between the extremes of stock and stubbys. I think i could do that with a bit of trial and error modding the baffle (or even making some from scratch). I'm hoping that as the stocks are so restrictive, that restricting the stubbys to get to the level i'd like, will still be less restrictive than the stocks. If i can't, then so be it, but it'll still be fun trying Smile

Hmmm...turbo....that's an interesting thought! But...no. Don't think i want to go down that route..at least not on the triple. Think i'll save that one for when i do my project Bandit Smile

If/when i do get to where i want to get, i'm going to take it down to the local dyno and make sure it's all set up for it. No point in doing that until i've done it, of course.

RhynoCZ:
Yes, that's what i was thinking (blocked up end with perforations in the tube). Also thinking about various plates in different sizes and shapes. The great thing about removable baffles (and they're really easy on the SPE's) is i can whip them in and out and instantly see, or rather hear, the effect.

GT200Fan79:
Interesting, goes to show there's more to it than you'd think. Could it also be that the bike was setup better for the stocks than the straight through can?

Incidentally, i didn't notice any lack of power after putting them on with the baffles in. It still reached 143 (on a private road of course!) as it did with the stocks. How the midrange and lower end changed, if at all, was difficult to determine, as in it seemed to feel the same.

Marjay:
Yes, they do look loud, but as i mentioned before, all the vids i watched beforehand didn't really convey just HOW loud they'd be. It's not until you're stood next to them IRL at 7am do you realise the actual volume. And i don't mind a bit of extra volume, it's nice to actually hear and feel what the engine's doing more accurately than with the stocks, that are imho, way way too quiet. And even baffled, they still sound deliciously good! Smile

Robby:
Very true, i've been reading up on the art of exhausts and you've pretty much nailed what are the important determining factors. I, like you, will attempt to make my own by trying different solutions. If i can get a sensible compromise between sound and volume, it'll be down to the dyno to set them properly.

Stinkwheel:
Again, that's my thinking too. There's not really a lot of space in there, but the extra baffle would overcome that if done in that particular way. And yes, it is a straight through can btw, it's only the packing around the inner tube that was soaking up the sound. But as said before, i think i'll try different approaches next week, but that is definitely one of them that has promise.

Cheers for all the replies guys. Given me plenty to think about!

I'll let you all know how i get on....or if i end up putting the stocks back on...... Thumbs UpVery Happy

Edit:

Bhud:
Yeah, after a lot of reading i'm now more up on the whole valve and pulse thing, and how that can affect where the power lies on the rev range and so on, so certainly something to bear in mind. But i'm still not totally convinced the stock cans are the best option. They will of course be tuned to suit the engine, but they're designed to keep the noise at (well below, imo) acceptable levels to pass tests.

pig hog:
It's not just about me hearing the noise. If i were just me on this planet the baffles would be out all the time, except on long journeys when i look for other survivors.
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Last edited by Mr Hammers on 19:41 - 13 Mar 2019; edited 1 time in total
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Tdibs
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PostPosted: 18:12 - 13 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cant claim any useful knowledge on the subject, but having used a couple, I found this design the most effective and quieting down the can enough to not be obnoxious.

https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/attachments/duc-scorpion-baffles-jpg.47197/

So something like welding a cap on the end and perforating the tube.

https://puu.sh/CZqtt.jpg

Then most likely take it for a remap.
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recman
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PostPosted: 22:47 - 13 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr Hammers wrote:

recman wrote:
I think my carbon XLS look good.
I also went for them rather than the stubbys because having viewed a few YouTube videos, I knew they'd be too loud.


Yeah, ignore me, i've always had a bit of a thing about long cans, it's a pet hate. If you're happy though, i'm happy Smile .


All good fella, aesthetics are subjective.
I might give your nut and bolt solution a try, although I don't find the sound of my cans unbearable, having riden with fairly quiet original cans for the past six years, it wouldn't be entirely a bad idea to turn them down a bit.
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Mr Hammers
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PostPosted: 23:20 - 13 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

recman wrote:
All good fella, aesthetics are subjective.
I might give your nut and bolt solution a try, although I don't find the sound of my cans unbearable, having riden with fairly quiet original cans for the past six years, it wouldn't be entirely a bad idea to turn them down a bit.

Cool Smile Yes, surprisingly it really made a difference, more than i'd hoped. That reverberating drone in my head tootling along at 50 has disappeared almost completely. Still noisy of course, but certainly not unbearable anymore, and i don't need earplugs. I really think i can turn it down even more experimenting with the baffle too. Can't wait to get started on it!

Just make sure the nuts can't come off, or you'll have to turn the bike upside down to get them out Wink

Tdibs wrote:
like welding a cap on the end and perforating the tube.

Cheers, Tdibs, yes that's strategy number 2 on my list of solutions to try. First being baffle packing, held in place with an ss mesh washer, and if it's still too loud, then capping and drilling will be next. Thumbs Up
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recman
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PostPosted: 08:10 - 14 Mar 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr Hammers wrote:
Just make sure the nuts can't come off, or you'll have to turn the bike upside down to get them out


I'll use a lock nut.
What size bolts did you use btw? I'm guessing 5mm?
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