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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 10:16 - 04 Dec 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

1claire wrote:
It looks good, your hard work paid off. Are you looking at replacing your motorcycle exhaust?


Not really no. I find if you are quiet you can get away with things you can't when your exhaust is noisy.

Zen Dog wrote:
Do those shock tubes really work? Obviously they stop grit/stones/whatever hitting the damper rod etc., but since they're made of neoprene, I kind of thought they'd end up trapping condensation in the shock when they got wet, and could end up being more of a detriment than a benefit.

With the kind of mileages you've done Sickpup, I'm guessing you've found they're worth it? Or is the shock tube just to cover the swanky shock so no-one nicks it? Very Happy


I don't know if it will cause problems, this is the only bike I've used one on. My reason for using it was to stop the shock getting nicked, this way no one can see what it is.

Fat Angry Scotsman wrote:
I just read this thread in it's entirety and I am thinking there is probably a hole in my swingarm too on my 2009 ER6F. Last weekend when I was tightening and lubricating the chain I noticed that when I undid the adjuster block on the right hand side dirty water started pouring out of it where it meets the swingarm.

Think I will take it to get looked at the local motorcycle garage. Then again it is old as shit and was cheap so there's probably a load of problems I don't know about yet.

I was thinking of replacing the rear shock on mine myself just using a better condition used unit from eBay since they are relatively cheap. I've wanted to replace the adjuster blocks on both sides of the swingarm since I got the bike but after seeing how you got yours in decent condition just using an angle grinder I think I will go down the renewal route first when I get it laid up for the winter and move to my Chinese 125cc winter hack.


The holes in my swingarm were hidden by the silencer and right hand footpeg hanger so were hard to see.
As to a rear shock I would just get the Hyperpro in the set with the fork springs. It was £500 with 0% finance over a year so minimal monthly payments from Calsport. The suspension is so much better with everything I did to it, much more stable.

Tdibs wrote:
Usually the adjuster blocks have a small relief cut into them on one side to act as a drain hole. Check they were fitted the correct way around/might need cleaning up so water can exit. Also sometimes drain holes under the main section of the swingarm that can get filled with crap and just need poking open.

Next time you have them off spray some waxoyl in at least (make sure drain's are still free) to try and buy some more years out of it.


They do have drain holes on both sides, unfortunately they are way too small and block with the slightest amount of dirt.

No one uses Waxoyl anymore. Dinitrol not only protects, it neutralises corrosion and is easier to apply.
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 10:22 - 04 Dec 2021    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fat Angry Scotsman wrote:
The only reason I hesitate to actually put a lot of money into this bike is because I know I am only going to have it at most another year, probably a lot less as I move to another bigger bike.

EDIT: Forgot to say thanks for the tip, I will do that on a quiet weekend and take the opportunity to replace a few of the more fucked parts in the rear axle as well.


It's worth thinking hard on this choice. If you can do the work it's a very simple bike to work on, mine only needed so much work because of the mileage.

They are surprisingly competent bikes as standard which if ridden smoothly can show up a lot of sports bikes in the corners and once worked upon like this one really shine. Yes they are down on power but if you can keep up with big bikes on one of these when you do get a bigger bike you will be so much better on it.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 15:10 - 16 Jan 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

So it's gone through it's 2nd tank of fuel and is now getting over 100 miles to the tank doing 4 mile trips around town so probably sorted. It will get used for longer runs when it warms up a bit.

Now the question is should I fit an 84mm JE high compression piston kit Razz
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 18:38 - 22 Apr 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

A further update. Its now done somewhere near 1000 miles including motorways and outside the city it gets an easy 60mpg so I'm happy with this.
Now it needs an oil and filter change.
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 17:15 - 07 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

So some new problems have appeared.
The throttle cables need adjusting but this means I have to remove the right hand fairings. To do that all the centre cowlings need to come off as well.
The left hand caliper is knocking under braking so this needs stripping and the sliding pin rubber boots replacing.
Sounds like the manifold gaskets are blowing so these need replacing.
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Fat Angry Scotsman
World Chat Champion



Joined: 12 Jan 2021
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PostPosted: 14:44 - 08 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
So some new problems have appeared.
The throttle cables need adjusting but this means I have to remove the right hand fairings. To do that all the centre cowlings need to come off as well.
The left hand caliper is knocking under braking so this needs stripping and the sliding pin rubber boots replacing.
Sounds like the manifold gaskets are blowing so these need replacing.


Good luck with removing the fairings. At least you won't have to strip the fairings down to individual components like I had to but getting those electrical connections all routed and connected to each other was an absolute bastard for me and my chubby hands Laughing
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sickpup
Old Timer



Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 13:15 - 16 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

everything is done and went well but nothing really photo worthy to show other than the exhaust gaskets.

The Caliper sliding pin rubbers didn't show any real wear but replaced the caliper doesn't clonk anymore.

The throttle is a bitch to set up but all good now.

The gaskets as you can see have burnt through. Kawasaki often use an unusual system where the gaskets sit outside the engine instead of inside a pocket. As a result you cannot use paper exhaust gaskets as they are outside the engine and rot. Copper gaskets are used as standard but they corrode over time as well.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 16:17 - 31 May 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you remember back I replaced the head races which came loose the other day so they needed sorting.
A while back I discovered a place called GB Motorcycle Products who make special tools for motorcycles for a fraction of the OEM price, you can find them here https://gbmotorcycleproducts.com/

So I ordered a head race lock ring socket which arrived within two days and some new C spanners to be cut up and customised as needed. All made the job much easier.
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sickpup
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Joined: 21 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: 08:55 - 20 Jul 2022    Post subject: Reply with quote

I decided the front discs needed replacing, they were down to about 3mm in thickness. These were the 2nd set to be fitted to the bike.

Having a look around the price of discs was high, around £300 a set but a set popped up on Ebay from Tourmax.

For those that don't know Tourmax is a Japanese company that buys excess stock from factories so back in my trade days I would buy their parts which would turn up in a Tourmax box and the parts inside would be in for example Honda wrapping.

The Tourmax discs were only £140 a pair which is an absolute bargain for floating discs. The discs are ground to spec with grind marks ( you can see this in the 2nd pic) in place, there is no zinc coating on them, they are covered with oil to prevent corrosion in storage which your have to thoroughly remove before use.

As always I used my trusty Facom impact driver to remove the disc bolts which came straight out without a problem.
These discs are threadlocked in place with a relatively low torque setting, as they are shouldered bolts supported in the wheel there is very little force trying to remove them.

An hour later it all went back together nicely and looks like this.

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/img-20220719-wa0005.jpeg

https://www.bikechatforums.com/files/img-20220719-wa0007.jpeg

Plain looking discs but they work and the price over rides the lack of bling factor for me.

I used the old pads as there was a lot of meat on them, sanded the surfaces back to get them flatish.
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Old Thread Alert!

There is a gap of 207 days between these two posts...

2Hondas
Nova Slayer



Joined: 10 Nov 2007
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PostPosted: 23:19 - 12 Feb 2023    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you so much for documenting all this.

My 2010 er6n (25k miles) had an advisory on its last MOT about a rusty swingarm, closer inspection revealing the box section being about as strong as a cream cracker.

I started taking it apart today, ready for a Dinitrol'd Italian swingarm, and seeing someone else do the exact same thing before, is incredibly helpful.
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Current - 2010 Kawasaki ER-6n - Green
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 1 year, 44 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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