Facelift 2017 MT-09 advice

[billyray911]

Chaps,I’m in the market for a facelift MT-09 and could do with a bit of advice please about what to look for and anything general that I may miss.
The specific bike that I’m looking at is a 2017 with less than 5000 miles and a couple of extras that wouldn’t bump the price up too much.It has had three owners which concerns me slightly.
It’s a private sale and book price appears to be £5400.Looking about,that price appears to be optimistic and nearer £6000 looks more realistic.Its for sale at £5900 hopefully with some room for negotiation.
Ive done a partial hpi and all appears ok but need the V5 and a few other bits to fully check its status.
Questions are and I know that this is subjective in that it’s what I’m prepared to pay,but where would you be looking to haggle down to.I want to strike a balance between getting a decent bike but at a reasonable price.
I’ll be checking the V5 and the headstock number.Is the engine and other id numbers easy to find and where will I find them on the 09?Searching online states Head stock/Frame down tubes/Side frame rail/Under the fuel tank or seat/Engine mounting-is this still relevant?
Lastly,is there anything that I’ve missed such as should there be any warranty left.
If it all looks good,how are you all paying largish amounts to private sellers?Ive looked at whether PayPal is an option for some buyer cover,but they don’t offer this on motorised vehicles-is it’s case of buyer beware and tough shit?
Sorry for the blah and input appreciated

[grr666]

It's already a ton of bike for the money imo, one of their main appeals is the price. I bought mine (MY2015) new for
the same as I was going to lob on used 3 year old Triumph Street Triple. Given my mega low mileage of maybe
750 miles a year, the three MOT free years and warranty were the clincher. Much to Fowlers disgust I bought
that for "cash" as well, they were a little upset after I'd haggled a bit off to not be selling me a financial product when I
handed them my debit card and said" Cool, ring it up then mate". The salesmans face was priceless.

In my time I've paid a private seller as much as 17000 for a used vehicle sort of by "cash" or more accurately,
by going to the bank in the High St and transferring the funds direct into an account. I've also bought a vehicle
with a HPI alert that money is owing and similarly have gone to the bank with vendor and paid his finance off
and then transferred him the remaining sum, cancelling the HPI marker. He only had like £2k to pay on it and
I bought the bike for £4k. That was my ER6f btw. I figure in a bank you're in a CCTV rich environment, and you can
often ask for a small room to one side to do something like this in a main bank with use of their phone and a bank
employee to perform the transfer. A convenient and quiet place to perform the transaction. If a vendor will only
accept pound notes then I run a mile usually. Thought about PCPing a brand new one? Costings may work out favourably.
____________________
Currently enjoying products from Ford, Mazda and Yamaha
Ste wrote: Avatars are fine, it's signatures that need turning off.

[billyray911]

Cheers for the reply-appreciated.I did a deal on the one mentioned-under 4k with an akro,tail tidy,screen and rad guard and we agreed on £5500.
I’ve put a holding deposit down and then will be bank transferring the rest.
Picking it up tomorrow!

[grr666]

Hold tight. It's a wee beastie.
____________________
Currently enjoying products from Ford, Mazda and Yamaha
Ste wrote: Avatars are fine, it's signatures that need turning off.

[billyray911]

[FretGrinder]

Hopefully you'll be posting pics in this thread, when you pick it up.
____________________
Yamaha MT-09

ಠ_ಠ

[billyray911]

Leave it with me!

[Robby]

Cash is safe. Bank transfers can be dodgy from the seller's point of view.

I usually ask for cash, but will accept a transfer if I think the buyer is trustworthy. The transfer will be done during pickup using mobile banking, I can check it on my phone, all good.

If they won't negotiate on the price, or will only negotiate to a certain point, see what else they will throw in. I've done this myself, where I'm not going to go below a certain point on the price, but will chuck in a load of extra bits I was going to sell separately if it makes the sale.

Whilst the advice often says to go in with a really low offer to persuade the seller to drop the price a lot, this can also just piss off the seller. A pissed off seller might be less inclined to meet at a convenient time, leave any petrol in the tank, wash the bike or check the tyre pressures. That means you don't get to enjoy the crucial first ride as much.