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9 year old tyres

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P.
Red Rocket



Joined: 14 Feb 2008
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PostPosted: 13:19 - 13 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

HardlyDavidson wrote:
Just curious, do you guys buy your own tyres and then drop them off along with the bike to a specialist to fit and balance?


Used to buy and fit my own, now I just buy my own, rip the wheel off and take to someone.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 13:42 - 13 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paddy. wrote:
HardlyDavidson wrote:
Just curious, do you guys buy your own tyres and then drop them off along with the bike to a specialist to fit and balance?


Used to buy and fit my own, now I just buy my own, rip the wheel off and take to someone.


If you are really cheap,
Buy some rim protectors, (nothing to do with Islam)
Three tyre levers,
Some tyre bead lube. (It is not exactly grease. It is a type of de-fatted oil based compound. But it is vital to help ease the bead over the rim and to protect the soft inner tube part of tubeless tyres. Inner tube becomes sort of bonded to the inner side of the carcass. (and also tubed tyres need lube too)

The most difficult part is breaking the bond between the bead and the rim. The soft inner tube continues around the bead so it sort of bonds to the rim.
You can break the bead in many ways. Just ensure you use a method that will not injure the bead. That is the seal init.

There will be a coloured DOT on the sidewall of the tire. Align this dot with the tyre valve or align on the opposite side. I think red is the heaviest point in on the tire and yellow is the lightest point. But it is significant to balancing.
When fitted on the rim ride it and check for out of balance. Usually out of bal forces cause vibration around 50-60MPH (for some reason.)
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MCN
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PostPosted: 13:44 - 13 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

bobbertandsammy wrote:
Just to point out that the roads up here, in particular north of Inverness, are very tough on tyres buddy. Wears them out a lot faster than you would maybe expect.


Don't tell me.
You're running Goodyear High Flotation on your John Deere.
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EazyDuz
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PostPosted: 20:27 - 14 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The guys that fit mine wanted about £60 more for removal.
Since I have a jack I never use I took the opportunity to clean and grease the shaft drive with the rear wheel off, also cleaned out the drum brake and loctited bolts which werent and should have been. Regreased the axle on reinstallation etc.
Dropped the wheel off to them to be fitted with the new tyre, popped the rear one back on, then raised the front and took that to them as well, which gave me time to clean the front disc and pads and rust proof anything that needed it. (My jack only does one side at a time)

Saved a bunch of money, brakes feel better and I dont have to worry about the completely bone dry shaft drive anymore (common issue on my bike, factory never put enough, or any, moly paste on the splines)
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 20:54 - 14 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

HardlyDavidson wrote:
Just curious, do you guys buy your own tyres and then drop them off along with the bike to a specialist to fit and balance?


No I buy them and fit them using my tyre machine and manual balancer.

Next big purchase will be a full size auto balancer
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MCN
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PostPosted: 21:39 - 14 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

EazyDuz wrote:
The guys that fit mine wanted about £60 more for removal.
Since I have a jack I never use I took the opportunity to clean and grease the shaft drive with the rear wheel off, also cleaned out the drum brake and loctited bolts which werent and should have been. Regreased the axle on reinstallation etc.
Dropped the wheel off to them to be fitted with the new tyre, popped the rear one back on, then raised the front and took that to them as well, which gave me time to clean the front disc and pads and rust proof anything that needed it. (My jack only does one side at a time)

Saved a bunch of money, brakes feel better and I dont have to worry about the completely bone dry shaft drive anymore (common issue on my bike, factory never put enough, or any, moly paste on the splines)


What bike?

The grease is a maintenance area.
Getting the exact recommended grease is an arseache. Castrol Optimolly Paste White is what supposed to go on the spline on my Beemer.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 23:34 - 14 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

EazyDuz wrote:
...completely bone dry shaft...


no one wants that!
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EazyDuz
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PostPosted: 08:34 - 15 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
EazyDuz wrote:
The guys that fit mine wanted about £60 more for removal.
Since I have a jack I never use I took the opportunity to clean and grease the shaft drive with the rear wheel off, also cleaned out the drum brake and loctited bolts which werent and should have been. Regreased the axle on reinstallation etc.
Dropped the wheel off to them to be fitted with the new tyre, popped the rear one back on, then raised the front and took that to them as well, which gave me time to clean the front disc and pads and rust proof anything that needed it. (My jack only does one side at a time)

Saved a bunch of money, brakes feel better and I dont have to worry about the completely bone dry shaft drive anymore (common issue on my bike, factory never put enough, or any, moly paste on the splines)


What bike?

The grease is a maintenance area.
Getting the exact recommended grease is an arseache. Castrol Optimolly Paste White is what supposed to go on the spline on my Beemer.


Suzuki C800. No its a well documented issue, where the shaft meets the gearbox, the splines on some bikes are bone dry from new, mine included.
Had only done 16000, all other mating areas for the shaft had at least some residue/evidence of grease, except the end going into the box which was completely dry. If water gets in it has been known to strip the splines, expensive repair.
Since Honda moly paste was almost impossible to get hold of I bought liquid moly, this stuff:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Liqui-Moly-P000405-3676/143127830817?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Reviews say its as good as, if not better than the Honda stuff so it will do, anything is better than nothing on the splines anyway.
£18 for a tiny tube was a bit of a piss take mind
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MCN
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PostPosted: 08:50 - 15 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

EazyDuz wrote:


Saved a bunch of money, brakes feel better and I dont have to worry about the completely bone dry shaft drive anymore (common issue on my bike, factory never put enough, or any, moly paste on the splines)


Suzuki C800. No its a well documented issue, where the shaft meets the gearbox, the splines on some bikes are bone dry from new, mine included.
Had only done 16000, all other mating areas for the shaft had at least some residue/evidence of grease, except the end going into the box which was completely dry. If water gets in it has been known to strip the splines, expensive repair.
Since Honda moly paste was almost impossible to get hold of I bought liquid moly, this stuff:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Liqui-Moly-P000405-3676/143127830817?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Reviews say its as good as, if not better than the Honda stuff so it will do, anything is better than nothing on the splines anyway.
£18 for a tiny tube was a bit of a piss take mind[/quote]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-Optimol-Paste-White-T-100g-stores-tidy-still-have-some-in-stock-o-/153340829717

There are significant differences in product performance.
I like to use the shit that the oem recommended (The same stuff but not at dealer ransom)
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EazyDuz
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Joined: 12 Apr 2011
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PostPosted: 12:59 - 15 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
EazyDuz wrote:


Saved a bunch of money, brakes feel better and I dont have to worry about the completely bone dry shaft drive anymore (common issue on my bike, factory never put enough, or any, moly paste on the splines)


Suzuki C800. No its a well documented issue, where the shaft meets the gearbox, the splines on some bikes are bone dry from new, mine included.
Had only done 16000, all other mating areas for the shaft had at least some residue/evidence of grease, except the end going into the box which was completely dry. If water gets in it has been known to strip the splines, expensive repair.
Since Honda moly paste was almost impossible to get hold of I bought liquid moly, this stuff:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Liqui-Moly-P000405-3676/143127830817?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Reviews say its as good as, if not better than the Honda stuff so it will do, anything is better than nothing on the splines anyway.
£18 for a tiny tube was a bit of a piss take mind


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Castrol-Optimol-Paste-White-T-100g-stores-tidy-still-have-some-in-stock-o-/153340829717

There are significant differences in product performance.
I like to use the shit that the oem recommended (The same stuff but not at dealer ransom)[/quote]

Probably, but as I said something, even bargain basement grease would be better than nothing at all. Might buy that stuff you linked anyway though for in future.

https://www.totalparts.nl/picture/boonstra/000000168947-1.jpg

Left side completely dry.
Popped the dust seal off the other end, removed snapring and there was only remnants of old grease, some rust, orange water and crud in there. Cleaned all that up, liberal grease with a new dust seal, should be good until next tyre change when I'll inspect again. Could be placebo but the bike feels a lot less 'snatchy' when coming off and on the throttle.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 22:01 - 15 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

the optimol smears down to hee haw. it should still be on the bits but only a thin film.
The film is the working part in greases.

Other grease may not be as good.
Gen Purpose grease uses a soap base with oils. the soap can soak up moisture and the the film is lost.
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EazyDuz
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PostPosted: 23:17 - 15 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
the optimol smears down to hee haw. it should still be on the bits but only a thin film.
The film is the working part in greases.

Other grease may not be as good.
Gen Purpose grease uses a soap base with oils. the soap can soak up moisture and the the film is lost.

I noticed with the moly paste, a pea size seemed to spread forever. I kid you not though, that one end was bone dry. The shaft to final drive and final drive to wheel I might give a pass despite the corrosion and rust, but the gearbox to shaft was unacceptable.
From the forums for my bike they say its a one and done, as in grease it once and enjoy life as it should never cause any issues. For the unlucky few who didnt fix the problem, there was once a youtube vid of the bike in gear, making a horrific grating noise and not moving anywhere, turned out the splines had sheared off.
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