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LED stop/tail lamp arrays.

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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 17:10 - 06 Jul 2020    Post subject: LED stop/tail lamp arrays. Reply with quote

The sort with multiple LEDs. I have seen one with only some of the LEDs working, not the same ones consistently though. On the same lamp, some of the brake light LEDs work, again not all consistently, and not all the same as the tail lamp LEDs. Cause? Fixable?
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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 19:03 - 06 Jul 2020    Post subject: Re: LED stop/tail lamp arrays. Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
The sort with multiple LEDs. I have seen one with only some of the LEDs working, not the same ones consistently though. On the same lamp, some of the brake light LEDs work, again not all consistently, and not all the same as the tail lamp LEDs. Cause? Fixable?


Manufacturers ones are probably fine , but some of the lights that are imported and sold on Ebay and Amazon are just not up to it. The weather proofing is not up to a standard that works in the UK. I have an LED light on my bike water has got in and corroded it all up. It trash basically. I have fitted about 6 new rear lamp clusters to my neighbours Landrover. Same story - water ingress- some LEDs fail.
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A100man
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PostPosted: 20:38 - 06 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just fxed one of those LED disco lights for my daughter. Needed a specific blue LED which I source from ebay for a couple of quid. You need to get the power/current correct though or it will 'blow' .. This was 1W and surpisingly bright i.e. you couldn't look directly at it..
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 20:59 - 06 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

A100man wrote:
I just fxed one of those LED disco lights for my daughter. Needed a specific blue LED which I source from ebay for a couple of quid. You need to get the power/current correct though or it will 'blow' .. This was 1W and surpisingly bright i.e. you couldn't look directly at it..

I am certainly not going to put a 1W blue LED into this stop/tail light. It would soon be joined by other flashing blue lights, I'm sure.

Perhaps the cause of that disco light failure was some sort of beverage getting into the thing? Well done fixing it; it's good to fix things.

Steve says motorbike LED failures could be caused by water ingress. This one's black ABS, so I propose to saw it in half, investigate, fix if possible/cost effective, and stick back together with black ABS glue.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 22:32 - 06 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

How about metal fatigue on the circuit board due to poor quality soldering i.e. dry joints. Any change in the pattern if you belt it tap it lightly?
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 22:49 - 06 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
How about metal fatigue on the circuit board due to poor quality soldering i.e. dry joints. Any change in the pattern if you belt it tap it lightly?

This is from following the bike when it was going along, so there will have been bumps. The "grid" of tail lamp LEDs was changing; some going off, some coming on, from time to time; the brake lamp side of things was similar but not as bad, and not matching. I don't know hoe the LEDs are arranged. I've got another unit here, but it's sealed. Maybe the brake LEDs are the same as the tail ones, fed a higher voltage? Looking through the lens, I can see four cross-head screws fixing the "chrome" reflector to whatever's behind it, which possibly has the LEDS on a circuit board behind it too.

Poor solder joints are a nightmare. I once repaired the Isuzu DCU on an Astra MKIV, by re-doing a solder joint in it, which saved about £700. Just for a dab of solder! HJ published my fix, hope it helped someone else.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 08:47 - 07 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would expect the problem is just poor connections for the individual LEDs.

LEDs are cheap. Well-made LED lights are expensive, and it's a fairly new technology in automotive terms. That would suggest that it's fairly difficult/expensive to do it right, but very cheap/easy to do it badly.

Consider that a normal incandescent bulb and holder has quite big contacts, a spring clip to hold the bulb in place, and some way of absorbing vibration. A soldered LED does not, and the fashion is to cram loads of them together. Vibration is going to break stuff.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 11:36 - 07 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Standard practice from the units I've seen is to have say 30 LEDs. Running light switches on 10 in bank 1 and brake switches on the other 20 in bank 2.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 16:25 - 07 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby sez
"LEDs are cheap. Well-made LED lights are expensive, and it's a fairly new technology in automotive terms. That would suggest that it's fairly difficult/expensive to do it right, but very cheap/easy to do it badly"

Yep

You gets what you pays for
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 21:50 - 08 Jul 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having had several ordinary glass envelope bulbs break on my KTM enduro I opted for LED tail and brake lights.At first these looked quite fragile so I filled the gaps between the LEDs with clear silicone and cleared the excess from the tips of the components.These have worked a lot better than ordinary bulbs.

But on my Exup-R,although still looking okay and working the same as on the KTM,a friend who was following me on one occasion pointed out that the light from the back was much brighter when I was obviously accelerating.Once home I checked everything was okay,which they did visually.But instead I opted to replace them with original type glass bulbs and it has been okay since.

I bought my LED bulbs from Halfreuds and they would have lasted over 20,000 miles.
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