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YBR125 Error Code 19

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Mr Toucan
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 17 May 2019
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PostPosted: 10:56 - 18 May 2019    Post subject: YBR125 Error Code 19 Reply with quote

Hi,

Had no spark and an error 19 showing. Found an old post on here that suggested testing by connecting the black and black/white leads out of the back of the lock cylinder. This got me my spark back.

Questions are:

1. Can I just permanently connect the two wires? If not...

2. Can I add a toggle switch to do so? If not....

3. On the old post it suggested adding a relay. How would I do this?

Any help much appreciated,

James
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Easy-X
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Joined: 08 Mar 2019
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PostPosted: 11:19 - 18 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

If possible, get the circuit diagram and test the ignition switch disconnected with a multimeter or continuity tester. Also, worth mentioning the year of your bike as I'm thinking there may be a few variants of YBR over the years Razz

Pissing about with the wiring like that is fine if you need to get somewhere in a hurry but you have done half the work for someone to hotwire and steal it...
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WD Forte
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Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 11:39 - 18 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 2011 YBR here that a guy asked to fit a new ignition switch and key set to among other things.
This 'yamaha' switch aint right though
the diagram shows that at switch on, the red and brown connect for main power while the black and black/white connect as well

This new 'yamaha' switch only connects black and black/white when switched off !
I suspect its for an earlier CDI bike as its typical for and ac cdi setup

I could have used a small relay powered from the brown wire
to connect B and B/W but strapping the black and black/white together allowed it to start
and so far so good as all appears OK and this may work long term I dont see any major down side to this at present
But
This bikes been some what neglected and bodged so I'm currently
going over it to see if and what issues this may possibly cause.

So far I've established it wont start in gear so that's good
Some eejit fitted a 100W bulb which burnt out the headlamp connector so
I'm sorting that and other corroded connections before continuing
I see the side stand switch is broken/disconnected on this bike too

The black wire goes to the circuits which prevent it starting in gear unless the clutch is pulled and while the side stand is down

These circuits affects bike safety not security! it does not make it easier to steal
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Mr Toucan
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PostPosted: 17:02 - 18 May 2019    Post subject: Thanks Guys Reply with quote

Hardly Davidson and WD Forte - BTW great names! Thanks for the fast responses, gives me everything I need. Cheers.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 17:24 - 18 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just finished sorting this YBR and strapping the B & B/W wires together has no negative effect as far as I can see.
The bike starts and runs etc normally.
No side stand switch of course, never worked since he had it and pointed it to him ages ago, but the guy says he can live without so I left it be.

I got me crayons out and coloured some stuff in .....
It's largely accurate and might help but I found some mismatches mainly due to aftermarket stuff


https://imgur.com/rNS7SKE.jpg
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 23:28 - 18 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahhh... that is lovely, everything is so much easier with a circuit diagram. Nice to know the "bodge" wiring doesn't actually compromise security.

The side stand switch (or more accurately a chaffed cable to the switch) went wrong a while back on my bike. Obs I bypassed it before I figured out the actual problem... wasn't that bothered with fixing it till I almost pulled away with the side stand still down... sorted it the next weekend.

We have Health and Safety for a reason, people Wink
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ThatDippyTwat
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Joined: 07 Aug 2016
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PostPosted: 09:21 - 19 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

HardlyDavidson wrote:
I almost pulled away with the side stand still down...

You probably won't actually do it more than once. Unless you're daft or drunk. It hurts, and is potentially expensive. Mine was in a rally field, on a shortarse mates Guzzi Nevada 750, and resulted in me getting the piss ripped for months, no damage other than a little burn on my leg.

No sidestand switch on my rat. Had a number of them (on various bikes) go tit's up and leave me swearing at the side of the road, trying to bodge it enough to get home. Once it fucks up, it gets removed/bypassed. Seems it had fucked up on someone before I bought it. The VFR's switch still seems to be good to be fair, and it's getting on for quarter of a century old now.

Get into a routine, whatever works for you, of making sure it's up. My routines are different for different bikes.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 10:31 - 19 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah well, I'm a n00b so I'm bound to make mistakes. Forgetting to turn off the indicators is probably number one but I'm getting there.

When I repaired the cable I re-ran it in such a way as to have the connector plug accessible without tearing off panels then I made a bypass connector to keep with my tool roll Smile
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 12:42 - 19 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done it as well and survived
Never had one on my old thing but it would be easy enough to knock up a switch and annoying buzzer of fecking bright winky lite affair
I doubt I'd want it to disable the sparks though
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simonjb
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Joined: 04 May 2013
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PostPosted: 20:18 - 30 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have replied to the OP personally now.

For future readers, there shouldn't be a consequence of connecting the black/white wire to the black; however my fix with a relay was meant to simulate proper functioning of both switching components in the ignition barrel; such that the ECU would never know the difference.

Can confirm the fix is still in place and working after 5 years. If you're going to use a relay, don't cut the RED wire, splice onto it by cutting away the insulation, this is less likely to cause issues.

Also, use a decent quality waterproof automotive relay, as it will outlast the bike.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 22:35 - 30 May 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

It doesnt 'know' the difference anyway as when the bike is turned off
there's no power to the ECU or anything else.
Had there been some residual power, say a low power standby mode to monitor signal levels, a relay might have been of some use to mimic switch functions.


TLDR:
No need, It aint that smart
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