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Not sure about handling of 2016 Triumph Street Twin - SOLVED

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BusterGonads
Trackday Trickster



Joined: 18 May 2018
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PostPosted: 16:08 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Not sure about handling of 2016 Triumph Street Twin - SOLVED Reply with quote

I got a 7000 mile street twin.

Tyres are legal - romped the MOT with no advisories, but I'm inclined to replace them as the front has about 2mm and the rear maybe about 3mm of tread. I can't spot any weird wear patterns on the tyres.

What I don't like is the way the bike feels frisky over linear tarmak ribbons and even the odd painted arrow or centreline.

I've been riding my old cg125 for a year and that deals with the same road features more confidently. Nothing terrible happens on the Triumph; it doesn't jump off line or anything, but it makes me VERY aware of the road surface. I've only put 500 miles onto it since I got it so maybe it is just supplying plenty of feedback - don't know. I've obviously checked the pressures.

Any ideas? The bike came from one of my sons, so I can give it back to him if I don't like it.


Last edited by BusterGonads on 10:14 - 03 Jun 2019; edited 1 time in total
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 16:44 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Being very aware of the road surface is a good thing. You've discovered a thing called 'feel'.
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owl
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the head bearings, my triple was a bit sketchy and wandered on the front end, turned out it had been over tightened at some point.
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 17:39 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Being very aware of the road surface is a good thing. You've discovered a thing called 'feel'.


Thanks Nobby. I was beginning to think that after going on a 140 mile run around the Scottish Borders this week with another of my sons on his honda. I had numerous WTF??? moments on ribbons of crap tarmac, but nothing happened by way of the bike going out of control.

I have had biggish bikes before thirty years back and came back to biking last May after a long long absence. I can't remember my old bikes twitching over lines and ripples in the road surface. The Tyres do need binning though - soon at least. Thanks for the advice.
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 17:42 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

owl wrote:
Check the head bearings, my triple was a bit sketchy and wandered on the front end, turned out it had been over tightened at some point.


Thanks for that Owl, but it can't be that in this particular case. It went through the MOT just a couple of weeks ago and the steering is light and controllable - its just the reaction to road inputs tapping the side of the tyres. The head bearings are not loose and they aren't tight either. It only has 7k miles on it.
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P.
Red Rocket



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PostPosted: 18:30 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

BusterGonads wrote:
It only has 7k miles on it.


Means absolutely zero... just so you have some bearing on that, I rode a bike with <100 miles on it and it got bounced on the front end like you wouldn't believe. Miles = fuck all basis.
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owl
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PostPosted: 18:40 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

BusterGonads wrote:
owl wrote:
Check the head bearings, my triple was a bit sketchy and wandered on the front end, turned out it had been over tightened at some point.


Thanks for that Owl, but it can't be that in this particular case. It went through the MOT just a couple of weeks ago and the steering is light and controllable - its just the reaction to road inputs tapping the side of the tyres. The head bearings are not loose and they aren't tight either. It only has 7k miles on it.


There’s little chance of an MOT picking it up, the headstock could still have normal movement, it’s the compression on the bearings that can cause jittery feedback. I ended up with notches caused by mad wheelies bro Rolling Eyes I was convinced for a long time it was an issue with tyres until I replaced them. I had the bike at 3 different garages and none of them could figure it out until I took it up to Clive Wood.
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Tankie
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PostPosted: 18:57 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The interface between your arse and the road is the tyres,
check compatibility and overall wear,
as tyres wear their ride characteristics change , also as stated head bearings ,swinging arm bearings.
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 19:29 - 26 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had this on my VFR. I made sure the sag on the shock and forks was correctly set, and it went away. It does come back a bit if you load up the top box too much, but now it's generally good and certainly better than it was.
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 07:08 - 27 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the feedback.

I'll take a look at the settings on the rear shocks and change the tyres for starters. Fri=om memory, I think the shockers on the back are on their softest setting.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 08:24 - 27 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tire Pressures.

Too high and it'll feel as though a crisp packet could throw you off.

And we call the strips of tar in the joints between the road surface Over-Banding.

https://www.instarmac.co.uk/overbanding-the-truth/

It throws the front tire aww ower the place. Just be conscious that it's there. Try not to focus on it or you'll miss more important s4it.

Aaaaaannnndddd Tarmac. (Tarmacadam- After the Scottish chap who invented tar based road covering.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tarmacadam)
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kgm
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PostPosted: 09:12 - 27 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The borders roads, whilst epic, are pretty lumpy, undulating and covered in overbanding in many places so I'd expect some disturbance on most of those roads. You're also presumably going quicker than you would have been on the CG and so it'll have a more noticeable effect.

As you've already noted the tyres are getting worn. I've often found worn tyres tramline significantly more than fresh ones. Those would be my first port of call. 2mm, whilst legal, is pretty worn for me. I tend to change around 3mm as the degradation in performance is pretty noticeable by that stage, plus mine usually tend to be getting a bit square by that point due to my annoyingly straight commute.
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MarJay
But it's British!



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PostPosted: 13:59 - 27 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

BusterGonads wrote:
Thanks for the feedback.

I'll take a look at the settings on the rear shocks and change the tyres for starters. Fri=om memory, I think the shockers on the back are on their softest setting.


First off, don't change more than one thing at once. It'll confuse matters, and you'll never fix the issue if you do that.

Secondly, unfortunately the rear shocks are not 'on their softest setting'. This is not the right way to think about it. The hardness or softness of the spring cannot be adjusted. What is adjustable on this bike is the spring preload which basically adjusts where in the suspension travel the bike sits when you're sitting on the bike. You need to calculate or google the total rear suspension travel and then adjust so that when you're sitting on the bike the shock sits at the bottom of the top third of the suspension travel.

There is a calculator here that might help:

https://norwestsuspension.com/sag-calculator

When you have the ability to adjust compression and rebound damping, you *can* consider that in terms of 'hard' and 'soft' but I don't like to, because again it does muddy the waters. The compression damping is the amount of damping when the wheel is rising compared to the rest of the bike and the rebound is when the wheel is falling in comparison to the rest of the bike. I do not think this is adjustable on the Street Twin.

Get the rider sag right first, then try it out. It could be you have too much sag at the rear which is making the front end skittish. It should be possible to sort it out.

Often problems with the front end of the bike, including what you describe are actually down to issues with the rear shocks, and vice versa.
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BusterGonads
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 16:16 - 27 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarJay wrote:
BusterGonads wrote:
Thanks for the feedback.

I'll take a look at the settings on the rear shocks and change the tyres for starters. Fri=om memory, I think the shockers on the back are on their softest setting.


First off, don't change more than one thing at once. It'll confuse matters, and you'll never fix the issue if you do that.

Secondly, unfortunately the rear shocks are not 'on their softest setting'. This is not the right way to think about it. The hardness or softness of the spring cannot be adjusted. What is adjustable on this bike is the spring preload which basically adjusts where in the suspension travel the bike sits when you're sitting on the bike. You need to calculate or google the total rear suspension travel and then adjust so that when you're sitting on the bike the shock sits at the bottom of the top third of the suspension travel.

There is a calculator here that might help:

https://norwestsuspension.com/sag-calculator

When you have the ability to adjust compression and rebound damping, you *can* consider that in terms of 'hard' and 'soft' but I don't like to, because again it does muddy the waters. The compression damping is the amount of damping when the wheel is rising compared to the rest of the bike and the rebound is when the wheel is falling in comparison to the rest of the bike. I do not think this is adjustable on the Street Twin.

Get the rider sag right first, then try it out. It could be you have too much sag at the rear which is making the front end skittish. It should be possible to sort it out.

Often problems with the front end of the bike, including what you describe are actually down to issues with the rear shocks, and vice versa.


Thumbs Up

Cheers. I can adjust the preload and just try it on different settings. There's a road near where the bike is garaged that is ideal for testing the problem. I can make adjustments and test at different preloads.
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BusterGonads
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 16:29 - 27 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

kgm wrote:
The borders roads, whilst epic, are pretty lumpy, undulating and covered in overbanding in many places so I'd expect some disturbance on most of those roads. You're also presumably going quicker than you would have been on the CG and so it'll have a more noticeable effect.

As you've already noted the tyres are getting worn. I've often found worn tyres tramline significantly more than fresh ones. Those would be my first port of call. 2mm, whilst legal, is pretty worn for me. I tend to change around 3mm as the degradation in performance is pretty noticeable by that stage, plus mine usually tend to be getting a bit square by that point due to my annoyingly straight commute.


My son who owned it before used it almost entirely for commuting on London so the tyres may well be squared off, although when I looked at them I couldn't really say there was obvious squaring, but I am not a tyre specialist soooo I may well not see what is clear to someone who knows.

The point about the degree of wear is clearly taken. It arrived with me like that out of a courier van. First thing I thought when we wheeled it out was that the tyres were done - especially the front one (2mm). You mention the CG; when I got that it also squirmed on the kind of road features discussed. The rear tyre was worn out and after fitting a new one the problem disappeared.

As for the state of border roads, you're dead right. Overbanding and winding. The A7 from around Carlisle to Hawick is a nice ride and then Hawick to Jedburgh and back down to the Tyne Valley on the A68 is a magnificent ride. Had a giant all day breakfast in Redesdale. Needed it by then as it was cold.
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kgm
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PostPosted: 17:29 - 27 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I haven't tried that route, I'm normally in the area around the A701 and A708 or further west towards the Galloway Forest. There's so much good stuff around the whole borders area.
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BusterGonads
Trackday Trickster



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PostPosted: 08:20 - 28 Apr 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

kgm wrote:
I haven't tried that route, I'm normally in the area around the A701 and A708 or further west towards the Galloway Forest. There's so much good stuff around the whole borders area.


I'm going to look those roads up and take a spin around there. Cheers.
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 22:15 - 01 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

kgm wrote:
.

As you've already noted the tyres are getting worn. I've often found worn tyres tramline significantly more than fresh ones. Those would be my first port of call.


The problem is solved.

I looked on a Street Twin Facebook page and found a number of people all complaining about the same issue - squirming on overbanding and paint lines and tracking in grooves. A number of them blamed the Pirelli Phantoms fitted by the manufacturer and had solved their tracking problems by fitting different tyres of various sorts instead of the OEM ones, even when the Pirellis were pretty new. My front tyre was worn, but the Pirelli tyre is too square even when new, so it won't ride easily over the ridges of paint lines or over banding.

Some of the feedback claimed that Triumph had chosen the front tyre more for the retro look than its performance on the bike.

I talked to the guy that runs a small one man tyre shop locally and the lad that runs it recommended some Bridgestones. He supplied and fitted them yesterday and it's a different bike. Behaves as it should and a pleasure to ride no matter the quality of the surface.


Last edited by BusterGonads on 10:16 - 03 Jun 2019; edited 1 time in total
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kgm
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PostPosted: 08:08 - 02 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad you got it sorted 👍
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recman
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PostPosted: 08:23 - 02 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had some Bridgestone Battlax bt023 on my Street when I first got it.
They didn't last long.
The replacement PR3s have been excellent over the last 10k+ miles.
The rear is squaring somewhat but the front will probably last through another rear tyre.
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LessIsMore
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 09:00 - 02 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think this is mainly down to effective tyre width, which is increased by squaring from wear. A CG has narrow tyres but when the side of the contact patch catches a ridge and rides up it, for a moment the bike wants to lean in the other direction, thus introducing a steering input. With a wider tyre, the bike wants to lean more because the contact patch is farther off-centre, although if it’s also heavier that will reduce the acceleration into the lean. But if the tyre is wider than the bigger bike is heavier, if you get what I mean, then the bike will weave more when it catches a ridge.

Of course different tyres with different shapes and stiffnesses will have an effect on all of this, so you can modify the behaviour by fitting different tyres as you have done.
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BusterGonads
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PostPosted: 10:19 - 03 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the ideas you lot posted. Although this thread is from the end of April I thought I should supply the resolution. A lot of people find these threads from google searches months and years after they petered out and it is frustrating to find a thread covering your issue when you get to the end and there is no resolution.

Cheers.
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 6 years, 94 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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