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nutty_nick
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PostPosted: 23:29 - 20 Jun 2019    Post subject: Technical bulb advice Reply with quote

Can anyone help me, I run a p21 12v bulb in the front of my bike (car indicator bulb adapted to fit my headlight) was wondering if anyone knew what the lumens was on one have had a google but its very contradicting and id like to convert it to an LED but without knowing the lumens I cant really complare the brightnesses, I want to improve the light not made it worse ! !
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Evil Hans
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PostPosted: 23:48 - 20 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hard to be precise, but it's probably a few hundred lumens

For example, this one's 460:

https://www.svetila.com/en/car-bulbs-12v/494-p21w-12v-21w-7506-ba15s-original-line.html
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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 23:51 - 20 Jun 2019    Post subject: Re: Technical bulb advice Reply with quote

nutty_nick wrote:
Can anyone help me, I run a p21 12v bulb in the front of my bike (car indicator bulb adapted to fit my headlight) was wondering if anyone knew what the lumens was on one have had a google but its very contradicting and id like to convert it to an LED but without knowing the lumens I cant really complare the brightnesses, I want to improve the light not made it worse ! !


What bike are you running? The last bike I can think if that had a single filament 18 w bulb as a headlight would be a Raleigh RM8 moped in about 1963.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 23:54 - 20 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whatever it is, a decent LED will be brighter than a filament (non-decent LEDs also available).

The tricky bit in terms of road legality is focus. How are you achieving a beam pattern?
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 10:11 - 21 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, watch out: some LED bulbs to a good job of replicating the direction nature of hi/lo beam bulbs where as others are just bright or super bright!

The flat or triangular ones do this better than round ones.
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 16:35 - 21 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most car indicator bulbs are 21W
the ball park figure on Lumens I got from tinterweb
is 14 lumens per watt for incandescent blubs
and 74 lumens per watt for leds
Roughly, 5 times light per watt

If the 14 vs 74 figures I read are to be relied on, a 21W blub gives 294 lumens
so a 4W led should give similar results.

A 21W led would give 1554 lumens, I have one outside on my security light and it's damn bright!
My 55/65W H4 bike headlamp probably gives around 770/990 Lumens in comparison

As well as focus issues, buyer beware as many of the Auto leds I've seen advertised the wattage figures are often
confused and equivalent bulb power used instead of actual led power, so bear that in mind especially on a small
bike with limited charging and battery power.

Then there's quality, led type and colour temperature.........
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 21 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

BTW
My bikes been all led for ages bar the headlamp but I'm definitely in the market for an H4 led hi/lo alternative with no, or minor, focus issues.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 17:24 - 21 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
BTW
My bikes been all led for ages bar the headlamp but I'm definitely in the market for an H4 led hi/lo alternative with no, or minor, focus issues.


I can personally vouch for the "daymaker" but that's less of a bulb and more like half the assembly...

On the plus side: the entire back is one massive heatsink so no silly little fans or "mushroom" heatsinks that require modifying stuff with a stanley knife.

On the minus side: the entire back is one massive heatsink so hardly any room in traditional headlamp shells to stuff unrelated wiring like ignition and indicator connectors.
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nutty_nick
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PostPosted: 23:02 - 21 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi guys thanks for all the great info, the bike is a 1971 bsa ariel 3 running one of them little plastic Cev headlights with the single filament 6v 15w bulbs in as standard, but because I converted it to 12v it gave me the option of upgrading the bulb, found a p21 was teh right diameter and single filament so ground the pins off and sodlered the collar off of the original bulb onto the base and have it a 6w increase, as to beam pattern, there was barely enough power for the light to even reach the road before and now it doesnt look too bad, I certainly dont get flashed by drivers coming the other way, id rahter keep the original headlight as trying to keep the bike looking stock even though its heavily modified underneath (its in the show and tell thread), as they are only cheap ive ordered a small selection off of ebay to play with. will report back on how I get on, including wall pattern test comparison to a stock bike
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:32 - 23 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is your bike positive earth? If it is, you may need to wire the bulb holder backwards.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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nutty_nick
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PostPosted: 23:32 - 28 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi stinkwheel, no bike is running standar dhonda cub electrics albeit massively stripped down, so standard 12v neg earth
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Triton Thrasher
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PostPosted: 17:08 - 29 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the Ariel 3 had direct lighting and no battery.

That means the light was AC powered.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 21:35 - 29 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shit! Good point... I got some cheapo LED bulbs for the turd scooter. Doubt they'll handle AC Sad
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WD Forte
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PostPosted: 00:55 - 30 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Ariel 3 was an ill concieved idea that helped BSA on its way down the shitter
It was a slow, ill braked, ill lit, POS that flopped
Nowadays it has curiosity value and probably a laugh to ride for 10 minutes or so
round a car park.
I dont know what 'beam pattern' you expect but all you'll get from that cheap plastic shell
will be brighter output than the stock 6v bulbs watt for watt, but nothing like a high/low beam pattern
unless you change the headlamp shell for something suitable for road use.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 16:57 - 30 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

HardlyDavidson wrote:
Shit! Good point... I got some cheapo LED bulbs for the turd scooter. Doubt they'll handle AC Sad


Some of the better quality stop and tail/single filament replacement ones will.

The high output, H4 headlight type won't. HOWEVER, nothing stopping you using the full output for charging the battery and running the lighting on DC if you're going down the LED route. My bike is on LEDs and draws 2.4A total if you have the headlamp, flashers AND brake light on all at once.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 30 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:

I dont know what 'beam pattern' you expect but all you'll get from that cheap plastic shell
will be brighter output than the stock 6v bulbs watt for watt, but nothing like a high/low beam pattern
unless you change the headlamp shell for something suitable for road use.


Konwing what the vehicle is now, I suspect it qualifies as a "moped" in which case it may only require front and rear position lights (rather than a headlight with a proper dip and beam pattern) and "visible tread" on the tyres.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 18:04 - 30 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
HardlyDavidson wrote:
Shit! Good point... I got some cheapo LED bulbs for the turd scooter. Doubt they'll handle AC Sad


Some of the better quality stop and tail/single filament replacement ones will.

The high output, H4 headlight type won't. HOWEVER, nothing stopping you using the full output for charging the battery and running the lighting on DC if you're going down the LED route. My bike is on LEDs and draws 2.4A total if you have the headlamp, flashers AND brake light on all at once.


Interesting... I could do a bit of rewiring I suppose. Alternatively, how about a secondary reg/rec just to convert the AC to DC and not even stress the existing one or the battery?

(Apologies for the thread hijack!)
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 18:19 - 30 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

HardlyDavidson wrote:


Interesting... I could do a bit of rewiring I suppose. Alternatively, how about a secondary reg/rec just to convert the AC to DC and not even stress the existing one or the battery?

(Apologies for the thread hijack!)


It's relevant because the C90 system on the OPs bike may well rock direct lighting too. But since he's running what is effectively a brake light bulb, he'll probably get away with a good quality, positive earth LED bulb on an AC circuit. (Positive earth ones have extra electronics in them that allow them to light with current flowing either way, a +ve earh LED will work with a -ve earth system but not the other way round).

However. Most tiddlers which have direct lighting only have a single charging phase with a split coil. When the lights are on, it uses half the coil for lighting and half for charging. When the lights are off, it uses the whole thing for charging. So in most cases, to convert to DC, all you'd need to do is wire the light switch up to the DC output from the ignition and blank off the AC wire. If you do this with standard incandescants, the battery will go flat over time if you use them. LEDs, not so much.

Also worth noting that some of the more basic ones are only half-wave rectified. They just have a high capacity diode in there instead of a rectifier and zennor. These are shite, they cook themselves and the battery because the saturation curve is rubbish and gets progressively more so the older and hotter they get and there's no voltage regulation. You can get replica C90 single phase reg/recs for about a tenner. They make a big difference to that type of charging system.

Some of the more advanced direct lighting systems have more than one phase, in which case the best bet for running DC only would be to run them all into the battery through an appropriate reg/rec. Enfields do this, they have 2 charging phases and one regulated AC lighting phase but you can bung them all into the battery through a japanese reg/rec if you want to run DC only. I THINK lambrettas have 2 phases, one for charging, one regulated AC for lighting.

In any case, keeping the lighting on a seperate phase when using LEDs is pointless. The more phases going into the reg/rec, the cleaner the charging voltage will be. My diddy batttery will run my headlamp on full beam for 24h.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Triton Thrasher
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PostPosted: 19:47 - 30 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rectifying the alternator’s output will waste about 20% of the power.

I don’t know how much that matters in your case. Maybe try a few different wattage LEDs and see which ones it’s capable of powering.

It will have lost some magnetism in the last 47 or so years.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:23 - 30 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Triton Thrasher wrote:

It will have lost some magnetism in the last 47 or so years.


He's got a Honda single motor in it.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Triton Thrasher
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PostPosted: 20:26 - 30 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
Triton Thrasher wrote:

It will have lost some magnetism in the last 47 or so years.


He's got a Honda single motor in it.



That’s another matter then!
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 20:29 - 30 Jun 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thinking about my scooter I may as well just wire off the ignition circuit as the lights are fully switched, i.e. not wired with permanent running lights: off/side/on + hi/lo beam.

Hmm... would it be better to run a relay to grab power from the battery directly or would standard wiring handle 2x 8W LED H4s + side lights? Probably less than 2 amps.
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