[PROJECT CANCELLED] Unfazed by the Fazer

[jimspeed]

The bolts look like M8 to me ,13mm Spanner ? And the big one looks M10.
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Hyosung cruise 125(passed test on, sold) Kawasaki el 252 (better than expected but sold on) Kawasaki GPZ500S first "big"bike.(sold) ZZR600 E5..Z750 2007,ER5, currently on a 2008 Enfield bullet electra x and loving it..
,"Alpha-9: Is there any correlation between dyno rod and dyno kits?"

[MarJay]

Brass nuts. Robby recommended them to me for exhaust mounting, and I'm slo glad I went with them. They round off and strip instead of the studs. I bought a bunch of new studs for my Street Triple and I'm so glad I won't have issues removing the exhaust if I have to in the future.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

[P.]

[Easy-X]

The helicoil theory sounds sensible but the thing is all the holes but one on the manifold retainers are small with a single larger one that's been drilled out.

I checked all the bolt sizes with a micrometer and they're definitely M6 + the odd M8. I've ordered a set of M6 studs and an odd M8, specifically without nuts, and separately ordered brass ones of the appropriate size. (Also some copper gasket crush washers.)

Brass nuts essential on this bike BTW as the manifold needs to come off to get to the oil filter. Talking of the oil filter at least it doesn't seem to be mashed on. I could almost loosen it by hand so a strap wrench should get it off without a problem.

Flywheel still hasn't turned up, that's eBay for you I think I'll have another go at getting out the sheared bolt...

Oh! One other thing, the other day I was eyeballing the big sheet of fibre glass matting (or whatever it's made of) left over from the scooter baffle rebuild and thinking "ffs... bought too much of that!" and whatayaknow there's nowt around the "Beowulf" baffle. Hmm... do I have any steel ties left?
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[MarJay]

I've owned bikes with bodges, but none of them were my own.
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British beauty: Triumph Street Triple R; Loony stroker: KR1S; Track fun: GSXR750 L1; Commuter Missile: GSX-S1000F
Remember kids, bikes aren't like lego. You can't easily take a part from one bike and then fit it to another.

[Easy-X]

Ah... not that sort of baffle inside:

https://i.imgur.com/YLdn4nx.jpg?2

I assume "WOW! THAT'S FECKING LOUD!!!" is intentional with the Beowulf

Even so, I think I might be tempted to swap in something like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390800852541

...unless anyone has a better suggestion?

Got the big bolt off:

https://i.imgur.com/Pgbpkhn.jpg?1

I started on setting number 1, nothing, on to 2, still nothing, max power "ah! you beauty!" 1-0 Ryobi

"Hmmm.... maybe I can get that inspection screw out?"

Well no, I went as far as the no.2 setting and did this to one of my cheap driver bits:

https://i.imgur.com/nXukcZ3.jpg?1

Bah! 1-1 draw Need to look for the next size up methinks.
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

Right, back to the sheared bolt. I got the nut undone a bit but it wouldn't undo completely as the threads were mashed by the mole grips



Still, I could push it the other way and round off the end with the World's Tiniest Angle Grinder™ (i.e. a Dremel.)

https://i.imgur.com/rqAAEQi.jpg?1

A light battering later and the front engine mount is off:

https://i.imgur.com/jARDtq9.jpg?1

Oh dear, that really doesn't look good! That bit that's torn is supposed to bolt to the engine, feeeecccckkkk.....

Actually I noticed this when I was taking all the rest of the bolts off the front mount but I held on until I could take a photo with more dramitas

Here's another view though:

https://i.imgur.com/f5Z3wDn.jpg?1

Easier to see when you have it in your hands but the "dropped" side of the mount is all twisted up. Let's see now... a salvaged mount costs? Well basically fuck all so worth a go Hopefully everything lines up with the replacement!

And in other news I had another look at the fairing fixings again and it is just the fairing that's twisted up and not the mounts on the frame so that will just get a belt until it conforms.

Finally, a little Automotive Archaeology: let's play "What's Under the Seat?"

https://i.imgur.com/BjQqXOj.jpg?1

Ah! So it's a "5DM7-070 B" hmm.... so Fowlers say it's a FZS600S Fazer in Silver Metallic No.1 - how enlightening

Which reminds me, that inspection screw I couldn't get out costs over a fiver! I think a suitable substitute will be found.

Moving on we have some sort of little plastic mount, two rubber thingies that I have no idea about, some fuses, the battery terminal screw and....

"Belt Slip" okay, tell me: what's this for? Making new tyres sticky?
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

Oh! Forgot to mention: I had to remove the oil filter to get the bolt and front engine mount off so had to drain the oil Bit of a waste seeing as I'm still not 100% sure of the flywheel/stator alignment situation but what the hey, plough headlong in...

The intriguing result is: fairly fresh oil. Certainly nothing nasty in it like metal swarf or water contamination.

So (probably) regular oil changes, fresh sprocket and chain, new rear tyre and yet bodged exhaust manifold bolts

BTW got the V5 back. 10 previous owners! So it's looking like an average of a new owner every 2 years and 2,500 miles a year. Wow... what a story this bike could tell
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Sister Sledge]

Engine mount is easily fixed using a stick welder but the odd shape of it does have me concerned. Just why is it bent like that? It's on rubber mounts to alignment shouldn't be too much of an issue but that raises even more concern - why is it bent? What about other mounts? Is the frame genuinely straight?
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CCM 404 DS

[Easy-X]

[Sister Sledge]

I suppose that mount could be off another machine too but again - why?!
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CCM 404 DS

[Easy-X]

Bad news guys, it was looking like a fun little project but I'm afraid everything was too twisted out of shape.

I got a salvage front engine mount and I could see I needed almost a centimetre of movement to get it to align. Loosened up the rear top and bottom engine mounts and hammered out the bolts a little and set to it with a jemmy...

...and I could get it to shift ~5mm, probably less (and not necessarily 5mm in the right direction!) not even close really. Maybe if I got the engine out entirely I could hammer things back into shape. Nah, not on a 4-cylinder lump. Shame, I had a good feeling about the bike at the start but that's the problem with gambling: you don't always win.

So, apart from the bike, money wasted: front engine mount £15, flywheel £10, cover £25 and a pointless indicator replacement £5. I bought lots of other stuff (notably an impact wrench) but nothing else specific to this bike.

I'll see if anyone's interested in buying it complete as a parts bike otherwise I'll break it down and part it out.

Apologies to all for such an abrupt end
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[NJD]

Easily make £600 on that.

Sell the:

- Wheels complete with tyres (but discs separate)

- Plastics all as one big set (make as much on this as possible)

- Fuel tank

- Engine (big ticket item providing you can take photo's, and perhaps a video, of it working before dismantling bike)

- End can (bit of extra cash, include the strap as well just to make new buyers life easier).

- Radiator guard (the silver bit) separate to the radiator

All the little bits sell separate and package them in a normal brown padded envelope (that you can get at most shops: Asda, B&M etc) and if they weigh less than 750 grams you can post for £1.80 or more than that for £3 as a small parcel so makes posting them easier.

Make prices appealing and make sure you make buyer pay postage (business have added advantage of deals with couriers etc).

If you can wait then get all the photograph's ready and organised and then wait until eBay do a £1 max selling fee offer and list as much as you can be bothered to: if it sells in the first listing then you've made more money than you otherwise would have for the same asking price.

Oh, and chuck a link up here if you do split it.

HTH.
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The do it all, T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶r̶o̶k̶e̶n̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶,̶ ̶T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶i̶g̶ ̶l̶u̶m̶p̶,̶ ̶C̶h̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶N̶o̶o̶d̶l̶e̶

[Bhud]

You could break it for parts. People buy parts on Ebay. The trouble is, they buy them in their own sweet time, so you'll need a bit of storage space. You'll also need time with the spanners and sockets, and I can think of better uses for summer evenings and weekends. Personally, I would just sell it to a scrapper, take the loss on the chin, and get a bike you can just jump on and ride without issues. Chalk it down to experience and just get a good bike.

[Easy-X]

Both good suggestions. On the plus side stripping down a bike doesn't leave you with quite so many parts as say a car I've had a think on it and I'll probably have one more go at the weekend to re-align things.

Looking at the parts diagram the engine stay on the rear/top/offside + the frame arm on the rear/top/nearside look like a weak point. I'll pop the bike on the centre stand, stick a jack under the engine and knock out the rear/top engine bolt. The engine should just pivot on the rear/bottom bolt.

If, and it's a big IF, I can get the front mount to line up (or at least look like I'm getting close) it should mean the frame arm just needs some abuse. The engine stay on the other side will most likely be completely out of wack but as it's just a metal plate with three holes (not even thread tapping required) it would be pretty easy to make something to fit.

If things can't be made to line up then it's not just the front mount that got mashed but the rear/bottom one as well... sayonara, baby!
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Shaft]

I wouldn't put one more minute into making that work, you can pick up a working one for under a grand.

Personally, I would've given that a swerve as soon as I saw the state of that flywheel in the advert, it takes a fair bit of force to do that, the kind of force from the kind of direction that main bearings aren't designed to withstand - maybe worth a gamble if you owned it, knew it and crashed it, but not worth buying as a fixer upper.

Do as NJD suggested, take off the high value (I use that term in the loosest possible sense, I doubt even the frame and V5 is worth more than £200) bits and hope you sell them in the fullness of time, then drop the rest to the nearest scrapper.

That thing is going to fight you all the way and cost you time and money you will never get back.
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Things get better with age; I'm close to being magnificent........
20 RE Interceptor, 83 Z1100A3, 83 GS650 Katana
WooHoo, I'm a Man Point Millionaire! https://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=234035

[stinkwheel]

I agree with Shaft.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[DRZ4Hunned]

I binned my first FZS into the side of a lorry, got more than i paid for the bike from insurance and then sold most of the parts for about £500 (still got a lot left).

I actually quite enjoyed the process of stripping it down, much more therapeutic than putting it back together as you don't have to worry about where stuff goes. You can also strip the engine down and sell stuff like cams, head ( ), clutch, gears then just scrap whatever's left.
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DRZ400-SM
FZS600

[Easy-X]

I've been directed by the wife to get rid of it quick:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143344659918

and as she's just bought me a new bike I'm disinclined to disagree
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[DRZ4Hunned]

how did you forget to mention the exhaust studs after all that
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DRZ400-SM
FZS600

[Easy-X]

Nothing special about exhaust studs or nuts and bolts, all good for the spares box
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Ste]

Photos are crap and the description is crap so don't expect to get much for it.

Street Name: 59 Grange Road
Colour: Silver
Fuel: Petrol
Capacity (cc): West Molesey

[wr6133]

[Sister Sledge]

It's an interesting street that.

I honestly wasn't wishing bad when I saw the twisted mount but it did point to something. A gamble yes. I know you'll not repeat it and hats off to you for telling us. Your missus must be a good one too!!

I can't advise any better than has already been said.
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CCM 404 DS

[NJD]

Show the buyer what they really want to see: the damage this bike has.

Photograph as is:

- Flywheel cover
- Exhaust headers (something about studs, missed this bit)
- The frame mounts (main reason your selling, buyer will want to see what they're getting into in order to value what figure to put on this)

Condition should be changed to "spares/repairs" as "used" implies it works but has defects, and I'd be of the opinion the bike is more a project than "used."

As above remove personal address from details and update advert as needed.

I'd put a reserve on that of at least £300-400 so that you can sell for parts if less than that. Sure sitting on stock might be a pain in the arse but storage tubs from Argos are cheap and the Fazer's a well used work hack so parts will eventually sell as people will need replacements if cheap enough and in good enough condition to just bolt straight into place, and you'll make more money than some because you've removed the part so can label/tag them as you go and list the exact part thus saving the buyer time/attracting more buyers.

HTH.

Edit (copy into advert to replace current description if suitable):

Here I have for sale a (2000) Yamaha FZS 600 that I purchased from an online auction trade sold (sold as seen) but the work it requires turned out to be more than my current tool collection and skillset allow and therefore wish to sell this on to fund a replacement.

I recomend that the new buyer/owner places their bids knowing the following:

- The flywheel cover has broken and at some point in its life has recieved an imapct beyond the norm. A new flywheel is provided with this sale (that I intended to fit) but ask the buyer takes any futher mechanics around this impact into conisderation before bidding.

- A flywheel cover is not included in this sale.

- The enigne mounts are twisted: and this is the main reason for sale. If you have the knowledge, workspace, time and energy to remove the engine from the bike and weld/repair as required then this is a perfect project for you (please see listing photographs for condition as is).

Other damage:
- Front fairing cracked (possibly repairable via plastic welding)
- Front R/L indicator needs replacing

Any other damage or imperfections are subject to inspection via the listing photographs and all damage I am aware of, or have uncovered during my time with this bike, has been listed above. I ask you bid on this item with the knowledge that issues may arise throughout this project that I am currently unaware of (as is the norm with "project" bikes).

Also included in this listing is: stock exhuast, Beowulf slip-on end can, engine mount and a flywheel (mentioned above).

I have done my best to ensure the listing photographs are as accurate as possible and the description matches what you will collect upon arrival.

Oh, and don't forget to mention if you have the full V5C / photograph what paperwork this comes with. And how many keys too.
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The do it all, T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶r̶o̶k̶e̶n̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶,̶ ̶T̶h̶e̶ ̶b̶i̶g̶ ̶l̶u̶m̶p̶,̶ ̶C̶h̶o̶n̶g̶ ̶N̶o̶o̶d̶l̶e̶