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Vulcan VN1500 Fi Hard to Start When Warm

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rebeltaz
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 06:37 - 30 Jul 2019    Post subject: Vulcan VN1500 Fi Hard to Start When Warm Reply with quote

I'm not experience in fuel injected engines. My bikes have always been carbureted. This fuel injected VN1500 starts perfectly when cold - pull the choke, spin it over a couple of times and voom. Once I let it warms up, though - after riding it for a while - I can let it sit anywhere from a few minutes to a hour or more and it will spin over for thirty seconds or more before it will finally catch. Throttle open or closed doesn't matter. Once it hits, it's fine.

Could anyone point me in the right direction?
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 11:32 - 30 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you here a suction noise when releasing the fuel tank cap?

Have you tried the choke (near home) to see if it improves warm starting?

What`s the mileage?

When were the valve clearances last checked?
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Robby
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PostPosted: 16:48 - 30 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's a fuel injected bike doing with a choke? Has someone stuck a carb on it?
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Grubscrew
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PostPosted: 17:12 - 30 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a car do that to me, turned out the valve clearances had closed up once warmed up effectively altering the position at which the valves opened ie too soon.
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rebeltaz
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PostPosted: 17:46 - 30 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
Can you here a suction noise when releasing the fuel tank cap?

Have you tried the choke (near home) to see if it improves warm starting?

What`s the mileage?

When were the valve clearances last checked?

Grubscrew wrote:
I had a car do that to me, turned out the valve clearances had closed up once warmed up effectively altering the position at which the valves opened ie too soon.


No, I don't think the tank is creating a vacuum. I will double check, but... I have tried the choke when it's warm. Doesn't seem to help. The mileage on the odometer reads 11314.

I thought about valves - i haven't checked them since I got this bike - but... I've got an EN450 that had gone through a fire, softening the metal in the head. As you rode it, the valve would embed themselves further into the head, effectively closing the valve clearance. That made it almost imppossibe to start when it was cold, but it started fine when it was hot. I don't hear any valve tap, but I suppose they could still be out of adjustment. I will check that as soon as I get a free spot in my shop.

-=[EDIT]=-
Actually... looking at the service manual just now to see how much I'd need to remove to get to the valves on this bike, I found this:

Code:
Valve Clearance Adjustment
NOTE
○ Since the hydraulic lash adjusters constantly maintain
zero clearance, it is not necessary to inspect or adjust
the valve clearance.


Sooooo.....

Robby wrote:
What's a fuel injected bike doing with a choke? Has someone stuck a carb on it?


I don't know, but it does. It's DFI (Digital Fuel Injection) with (what looks like to me) a throttle body. According to the service manual, you shouldn't need to use the choke except in rare instances.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 22:07 - 30 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, we had this discussion about "EFI chokes" with the Himalayan. Sort of a manual override or enrichment booster if you will.
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Islander
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PostPosted: 22:24 - 30 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby wrote:
What's a fuel injected bike doing with a choke? Has someone stuck a carb on it?


It's probably a fast idle lever rather than a choke lever.
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 00:10 - 31 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
Robby wrote:
What's a fuel injected bike doing with a choke? Has someone stuck a carb on it?


It's probably a fast idle lever rather than a choke lever.


The early PGM F.I. honda x11 had a choke pull!
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Robby
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PostPosted: 18:00 - 31 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a tricky one.

My usual answer for hot starting trouble is that the valve clearances are too tight, which holds the valves slightly open and doesn't let you develop any compression. Somehow it starts working after a bit of cranking, I presume the air and fuel hitting the valves cools them down enough to start working.

But this one has hydraulic tappets.

Slightly grasping at straws, but wrong oil grade could be the reason. If its too thick then hydraulic tappets can misbehave. Less of a problem on cold starts because you have no/low oil pressure for the first couple of revolutions of the engine.

So if someone has put 20W50 oil in there, which is quite possible because Harleys use it and Silkolene sell a 20W50 oil for V twin cruisers, that could be the problem. That's assuming it's standard fill is 10W40 or 10W30.
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rebeltaz
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 18:13 - 31 Jul 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I got this bike, I had to replace a gasket on the front bevel gear case. Then I had to replace the clutches. When they started slipping again, I had to go back in, with yet another oil change. So that's three times that I have personally replaced that oil - each time with Kawasaki 10w40 oil.

Looking in the service manual again just now, though, - just to make sure I used the right oil for this bike - it shows that this thing is pretty adaptable. For recommended oil type it calls for (SAE10W-40, 10W-50, SAE10W-40 20W-40, or 20W-50).

I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one that this has stumped Confused
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 14:58 - 01 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds electrical to me, air intake/engine temperature sensor or crank position sensor would be my bet.

I don't gamble much though so I'd be checking them with a multimeter and making sure it's all in spec. rather then throwing parts at it.
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rebeltaz
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PostPosted: 17:06 - 01 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
Sounds electrical to me, air intake/engine temperature sensor or crank position sensor would be my bet.

I don't gamble much though so I'd be checking them with a multimeter and making sure it's all in spec. rather then throwing parts at it.


I can (and will) do that. But...

I know components can break down or change values when they get hot, but wouldn't that affect running as well as starting?
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jaffa90
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PostPosted: 01:05 - 02 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another test when warm, ignition key on for 10 sec then switch off and then back on for another 10 sec. ???????????????????
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someone
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PostPosted: 05:52 - 02 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

if its an older bike , you should check fuel pressue and the injector/s
check the spark plug with a chart to see if its running lean or not
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 13:41 - 02 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

rebeltaz wrote:
Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
Sounds electrical to me, air intake/engine temperature sensor or crank position sensor would be my bet.

I don't gamble much though so I'd be checking them with a multimeter and making sure it's all in spec. rather then throwing parts at it.


I can (and will) do that. But...

I know components can break down or change values when they get hot, but wouldn't that affect running as well as starting?


Starting is harder, lower compression, higher current draw and less inertia than an engine already running.
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rebeltaz
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 23:49 - 02 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

jaffa90 wrote:
Another test when warm, ignition key on for 10 sec then switch off and then back on for another 10 sec. ???????????????????

someone wrote:
if its an older bike , you should check fuel pressue and the injector/s
check the spark plug with a chart to see if its running lean or not


I will check these this weekend and get back with the results. Thanks again, guys, for the suggestions.
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someone
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PostPosted: 20:02 - 03 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

while at it , check the engine with a vacuum gauge , its around 30 usd new and very good for troubleshooting it also doubles as a fuel pressure gauge , and since its an efi the dail should spin more than the gauge can read .

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1sHCaSpXXXXaZapXXq6xXFXXX9/Motorcycle-Universal-Gauge-4-Carb-Carburetor-Synchronizer-Set-kit-Vacuum-Hoses-Extensions-4-GL-1100-1200.jpg
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 11:53 - 05 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

As its FI have you checked for fault codes?
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rebeltaz
Renault 5 Driver



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PostPosted: 17:32 - 05 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

sickpup wrote:
As its FI have you checked for fault codes?


Honestly, I am used to working on units without computers. I didn't even think about this having fault codes. I will check those today.
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rebeltaz
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PostPosted: 18:52 - 07 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

So... no fault codes. Also, the plugs are all running about right - a tad tan, no black or white residue...
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