Avoiding cracked rivets on chain

[ThunderGuts]

Has anyone got any tips? I tried greasing the ball this time and went really slowly (hollow pin type) but it still cracked. Using a Motion Pro chain tool on a JT Xring chain. Also measuring with vernier callipers so it’s not like I’m going too far - it cracked at 0.2mm spread and I need 0.4mm according to JT. Not sure I can see how to get there unless I’m making some massive error in technique....which is quite likely I admit!

Cheers
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TG.

[kgm]

Is your tool malformed or are the rivets just cheap shit? Are the plates properly fitted? I've changed a few (did) chains and never had that happen.

[ThunderGuts]

[Pigeon]

How slow is really slow?

I do 1/2 turns then back out and check with caliper, then add 1/4 turns and check (using a £12 crappy rippoff tool).

Did the link come with the chain? Definitely a legit product?

[jaffa90]

Calm down, fit this,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223132486730

I have had non rivet links on a few power full bikes in the 70`s 80`s.
without problems.

[mentalboy]

[kgm]

[ThunderGuts]

[kgm]

Sort of. Just need to judge it, it shouldn't take a massive amount of pressure to make it spread. Small increments.

[ThunderGuts]

[Confusion]

[quote="ThunderGuts"]

[ThunderGuts]

I'm not sure the "stop" applies to the Motion Pro tool . . . the pin would have to splay a lot before it got to that stage! See the pic below;
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TG.

[Nobby the Bastard]

I tend to use a ball bearing than one of the pins on my chain rivet tool. As previously stated, you don't need to flatten the rivet hewd, just widen it enough that the plate can't move.
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trevor saxe-coburg-gotha:"Remember this simple rule - scooters are for men who like to feel the breeze on their huge, flapping cunt lips."
Sprint ST 1050

[Confusion]

[ThunderGuts]

[Confusion]

[ThunderGuts]

Hopefully the spare links will be there when I get home to give it a go. Battery is fully charged on the Aldi knock-off dremel to grind off the pins if I make a mess of it again

Hoping all this reverse psychology (more pins than I need etc.) will mean I'll succeed . . . .

I'll let you know how I get on with the chain - sprockets front and back plus the chain was £71, so chain is probably around £40-ish out of that lot. It's on a hack bike which only churns out 48bhp and spends most of the time commuting so it doesn't really see hard use, although it does go through the winter in all the salt and crud.
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TG.

[stinkwheel]

Just as an aside. If you're looking for a "budget" chain. I've been running one of those swift chains wemoto are knocking out for a good few thousand miles now with no issues.

If anything, I've had to adjust it less than the OEM EK/regina chains I was using before (I had been buying proper, boxed honda C&S kits off david silvers for much cheapness but they seem to have run out now).

EDIT, I should also say my chain tool has a pin that comes down a hollow shaft to splay the ends of the softlink, never seen one split and the thread is really fine so you tend to just count the turns rather than "feel" because it requires so little force. I usually go for 4-5 turns from making contact.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[ThunderGuts]

Tried again and cracked the first link. Then tried the second one and managed 0.21mm in the end (5.07 to 5.28). I’m scared to go any further given past history! It was taking a lot of force to get to that stage....
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TG.

[Confusion]

[jaffa90]

[ThunderGuts]

[ThunderGuts]

[stinkwheel]

[ThunderGuts]