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A discussion on oil

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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 12:38 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: A discussion on oil Reply with quote

Chatting in the office about oil (as you do... boss is on holiday and the beancounters rarely bother us unless a printer goes up the creek.) So is this correct...

Mineral oil wears out quick - ideal for running in an engine
Semi-Synthetic - probably worth swapping out every 6 months
Fully Synthetic - more durable, could get a year out of it for the average bike.

10W40 - nice, middle of the road viscosity for UK weather all year
10W30 - maybe for a really cold winter... or you live north of Watford

Motorbike oil good, Car oil bad (fucks up your clutch.)

For straightforward street bikes is that about the size of it? Does the brand really make much odds if you're swapping out once or twice a year and not riding to the raggedy edge?
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 12:49 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Re: A discussion on oil Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Chatting in the office about oil (as you do... boss is on holiday and the beancounters rarely bother us unless a printer goes up the creek.) So is this correct...

Mineral oil wears out quick - ideal for running in an engine
Semi-Synthetic - probably worth swapping out every 6 months
Fully Synthetic - more durable, could get a year out of it for the average bike.

10W40 - nice, middle of the road viscosity for UK weather all year
10W30 - maybe for a really cold winter... or you live north of Watford

Motorbike oil good, Car oil bad (fucks up your clutch.)

For straightforward street bikes is that about the size of it? Does the brand really make much odds if you're swapping out once or twice a year and not riding to the raggedy edge?


There's so much "it depends". Change intervals tend to be much more related to mileage than time. Additives (in the oil during manufacture) are important. Viscosity is important in several ways. "Car oil" can be good or not good. It depends.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 12:53 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Both of my Big Mad Wanker machines use Fully synthetic.

Both have the BMW service at 1 year interval.

The issue with this is that the service is better gauged by miles/kilometres run.

SO that is about 6000 miles or 10000 km.

(I do the service according to the service computer. Which nags nags nags about the service due at about 600m 1000km before due.
Or by date.
Service computer sez.....

Semi and fully synthetic are all mineral oils.

Only difference from 'base oil' is that the scientistics have fucked with the molecules to make the bonds better at resisting attack (Heat and acids and oxygen attack oils.)
Conventional oils have simpler additive packages to help the lubricant properties. Its when the additives breakdown you lose the good bit of the oil.

It is very similar to the blood if the chemistry is not correct then things go south.

And stuff that is too complex and involved to fully describe before the boss comes back from Magaloof Gay Pride Week,
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 13:03 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Re: A discussion on oil Reply with quote

Dunno, but Police threadjack Police

I'm always intrigued by this "swapping out" phrase and assumed it was an Americanism.
Turns out it's origin is in computing and means, "To transfer (memory contents) into a swap file."

As you were.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 13:17 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Re: A discussion on oil Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
Chatting in the office about oil (as you do)…

That's pretty much ALL I do in the office.

Easy-X wrote:
So is this correct...

Mineral oil wears out quick - ideal for running in an engine

Not necessarily. Mineral oils tend to be a lower performance level as they can't deal with very high and very low temperatures as well synthetics. However a decent mineral oil can still protect very well against engine wear - it depends on what additives are in it.

Easy-X wrote:
Semi-Synthetic - probably worth swapping out every 6 months

Why? Why 6 months? Why not 5? Or 7? Oil change interval is as much about use - distance, load, topography, speed, traffic etc. Your bike's manual will give service interval recommended by the OEM.

Easy-X wrote:
Fully Synthetic - more durable, could get a year out of it for the average bike.

Again, service interval depends on a lot of factors. For a given drive cycle a synthetic will tend to give longer life, but there's no fixed multiplier or factor. Six months or a year feels right because humans like neatness but the reality will be somewhere else.

The only way to get an accurate oil change interval is to do regular oil sampling and testing, but since pretty much nobody does this the OEMs put together a simplified service interval based on average use, with plenty of contingency built in. I'd guess we are all routinely throwing away perfectly serviceable oil because "6 months".

Easy-X wrote:
10W40 - nice, middle of the road viscosity for UK weather all year

Pretty much - most bikes from the last couple of decades will happily run on this. Some bikes run hotter and prefer a thicker oil (my KTM takes a 10W-50). RTFM.

Easy-X wrote:
10W30 - maybe for a really cold winter... or you live north of Watford

10W-30 has the same cold temperature flow properties as a 10W-40. Once an engine is at working temperature the weather makes little difference.

Easy-X wrote:
Motorbike oil good, Car oil bad (fucks up your clutch.)

Maybe. Some car oils will fuck up some clutches, but not all car oils will fuck up clutches.

Easy-X wrote:
For straightforward street bikes is that about the size of it? Does the brand really make much odds if you're swapping out once or twice a year and not riding to the raggedy edge?

Better brands do their own product development and come up with their own technology. Lesser brands will take 'ready-made' formulae from industry suppliers (either another oil company or direct from the additive suppliers) and badge them as their own.

Given the job that an oil does (essentially keeping the whole of your engine working) is it really a place for cost-cutting? The answer will depend on your own attitude towards your bike and your wallet and it's why you can get a variety of oils, from £5/gallon garden centre stuff to £20/litre hand-picked boutique oils. The choice is yours.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 13:20 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Re: A discussion on oil Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
"swapping out" ... it's origin is in computing and means, "To transfer (memory contents) into a swap file."

Some O/Ss even swap to memory... Smile
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weasley
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PostPosted: 13:22 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:
Semi and fully synthetic are all mineral oils.

Not true.

Synthetic base oils are either highly processed (known as hydrocracked) mineral oils or they are synthesized from gas molecules. In the hydrocracked case, the output of the process has chemically altered the stuff that was input so much that the term "synthetic" is allowed. In the case of the synthesized oils (PAO, ester) these have been stitched together from simple molecules to make bespoke end products with very well-defined properties.

The term "semi-synthetic" simply means that that base oils in a product are a mix of some mineral oil and some synthetic; the ratio depends on what performance is being targeted.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 13:23 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Re: A discussion on oil Reply with quote

weasley wrote:
Easy-X wrote:
10W40 - nice, middle of the road viscosity for UK weather all year

Pretty much - most bikes from the last couple of decades will happily run on this. Some bikes run hotter and prefer a thicker oil (my KTM takes a 10W-50). RTFM.

I am interested to hear your thoughts about running on 5W-40 where the FM says 10W-40.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 13:28 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Re: A discussion on oil Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
I am interested to hear your thoughts about running on 5W-40 where the FM says 10W-40.

To quote you: "it depends". It depends on the bike, the oil, the use, the age etc. If it is in warranty and the FM doesn't say you can use a 5W-40 then I'd stay away. If the bike is older and the oil is generally of a similar performance profile (API/JASO etc) then the chances are it'll be perfectly fine*.

*no guarantee - your choice, your risk etc.
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 13:28 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used to use the cheapest semi-synthetic bike oil I could buy, and change it frequently.
Now, I use only branded (Shell Advance Ultra or Silkolene) fully synthetic bike oil, still changed frequently (every 2k miles).

They are different. The oils look different: the fully synthetic one is much clearer, and the colour of urine. The semi-synthetic ones have a more bronze sort of colour. They seem to work differently, too. Gear shifting is much smoother with fully synthetic oil, and this is the big value in it for me, because I don't fancy trying to split cases on an old Japanese bike to replace transmission components after one too many missed shifts. Also, when you remove the clutch cover or valve cover, the cheaper oil will have left a bad-smelling brownish deposit everywhere, while, after a few changes with fully synthetic, there will be no such deposits.

My choice of oil and change frequency intervals is influenced by the type of riding I do. All leisure riding, with lots of inch-along-and-stop, with extended periods of idling at the lights (thanks, genius town planners), before being able to get out onto country roads where I change gears a lot in the redline but don't really keep a constant speed. If I just started the bike in the morning, let it warm up, then did a long motorway run to my destination, there would be less wear-and-tear and I would extend my oil change intervals.
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weasley
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PostPosted: 13:40 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bhud wrote:
They are different. The oils look different: the fully synthetic one is much clearer, and the colour of urine. The semi-synthetic ones have a more bronze sort of colour.

Yep - the colour of oil is determined by its ingredients. These are (put simply) the base oils and the additives. The base oils make up around 80% of the total. Synthetic base oils (of all types) are colourless and so the colour of the finished product comes solely from the additives that are mixed into it, which tend to be quite dark when neat. Mineral base oils have a range of colours, from amber to very pale and this imparts more colour to the oil.

Bhud wrote:
They seem to work differently, too. Gear shifting is much smoother with fully synthetic oil

I'd suggest this is largely down to viscosity. All oils get thinner as they get hotter and get thicker as they cool down. Synthetic oils tend to change less than minerals, so stay within a 'Goldilocks zone' over a wider temperature range. The viscosity of an oil affects how an oil film forms between two surfaces, with a thinner oil generally offering a thinner oil film. I find that gear shifts are clunky when cold (oil is thick so there is a lot of drag across the clutch and between the gears and shafts) but also get worse when really hot (oil gets thin, oil film gets thin). I can often tell when my bike is getting hot by how the gear shift feels.

Bhud wrote:
Also, when you remove the clutch cover or valve cover, the cheaper oil will have left a bad-smelling brownish deposit everywhere, while, after a few changes with fully synthetic, there will be no such deposits.

Yep - mineral oils are more prone to oxidation and thermal degradation, which leads to sludges and deposits forming (sometimes in combination with water and/or fuel combustion by-products).
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 13:46 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my track bike GSXR400 (redline 15.5k RPM) I use the cheapest semi synthetic bike oil I can get, usually Halfrauds or similar and change it once a year (usually before it goes to sleep for the winter). Four years in the cams and followers look exactly as they did when i first got the bike. This is a bike that gets flogged mercilessly and is extremely high revving.

However all my 2T's run on fully synthetic, because all that matters is seizure protection at max load, and fully synth is the best at that. It also minimises carbon deposits in the ports / head and pipes.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 14:14 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

weasley wrote:
Bhud wrote:
They seem to work differently, too. Gear shifting is much smoother with fully synthetic oil

I'd suggest this is largely down to viscosity. All oils get thinner as they get hotter and get thicker as they cool down. Synthetic oils tend to change less than minerals, so stay within a 'Goldilocks zone' over a wider temperature range. The viscosity of an oil affects how an oil film forms between two surfaces, with a thinner oil generally offering a thinner oil film. I find that gear shifts are clunky when cold (oil is thick so there is a lot of drag across the clutch and between the gears and shafts) but also get worse when really hot (oil gets thin, oil film gets thin). I can often tell when my bike is getting hot by how the gear shift feels.


My old Superlight was very much like this. Shifted great from cold, neutral never a problem. After 20mins neutral liked to play hide and seek.

I know the principles of how oil works but, as in so many things, the real world is not like the textbooks! All very informative stuff Thumbs Up

BTW does oil break down or spoil much over time? Brake fluid starts to go off after 2 years or so...
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weasley
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PostPosted: 14:47 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:
BTW does oil break down or spoil much over time? Brake fluid starts to go off after 2 years or so...


Engine and gear oils will not really change much over several years. They can be affected by poor storage - hot and cold swings, water ingress etc but if kept well they should last years. Once in use the oil becomes contaminated with various things, such as water and acidic combustion products - left for a while these can gradually react further and brake the oil down, but it's a pretty slow process at ambient temperature.

Brake fluid goes off through water absorption; they are hygroscopic. As the water is absorbed into the fluid this lowers the boiling point; in extreme the boiling point gets low enough to boil the fluid during braking, causing gas pockets to form in the hydraulic lines with consequent loss of effectiveness of the brakes. Another problem is that even if the fluid doesn't boil, the water can react with the brake fluid when hot in a process known as hydrolysis, which can lead to acidic reaction products which can corrode the brake system. An unopened bottle o brake fluid can last a while though, again if kept well.
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 14:50 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Re: A discussion on oil Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
Dunno, but Police threadjack Police

I'm always intrigued by this "swapping out" phrase and assumed it was an Americanism.
Turns out it's origin is in computing and means, "To transfer (memory contents) into a swap file."

As you were.


Cite.
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barrkel
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PostPosted: 15:46 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Some bikes run hotter and prefer a thicker oil (my KTM takes a 10W-50).

My Brutale specs 10w-60!
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 16:39 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting! Water cooled bikes I'd expect to run a little cooler than say a litre Harley? And this would affect you oil choice...
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MCN
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PostPosted: 16:52 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

weasley wrote:
MCN wrote:
Semi and fully synthetic are all mineral oils.

Not true.

Synthetic base oils are either highly processed (known as hydrocracked) mineral oils or they are synthesized from gas molecules. In the hydrocracked case, the output of the process has chemically altered the stuff that was input so much that the term "synthetic" is allowed. In the case of the synthesized oils (PAO, ester) these have been stitched together from simple molecules to make bespoke end products with very well-defined properties.

The term "semi-synthetic" simply means that that base oils in a product are a mix of some mineral oil and some synthetic; the ratio depends on what performance is being targeted.


True enough for office banter unless someone want to be pedant about an industrial sized matter.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil

Very Happy
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Triton Thrasher
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PostPosted: 17:14 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Re: A discussion on oil Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
Dunno, but Police threadjack Police

I'm always intrigued by this "swapping out" phrase and assumed it was an Americanism.
Turns out it's origin is in computing and means, "To transfer (memory contents) into a swap file."

As you were.


They seem to do “changing out” too though.

Where is “out?”
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MCN
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PostPosted: 18:10 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm fitin-ta change out the oil in my truck.

I am planing to drain the oil out of my pick-up engine and refill with fresh oil.

Or I may just drop it off over at the shap.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:26 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

As a general rule, the more you spend on the oil, the higher the service interval can be extended to.

So I use a basic, cheap 20w-50 mineral oil in my enfield bullet and change it every 1500 miles.

My mate uses royal purple oil in his track bike (a 160bhp gsxr1100 oil boiler so VERY hard on oil). You literally drain that stuff after a race, filter it through a coffee filter and re-use it. Uses the same oil for the full race season.

The viscosity to use is a function of the environmental temperatures and engine running temperatures/tolerances. Manufacturers guidelines are probably best here. In the UK, we don't see the extremes of temperature that would necessitate using a different grade in summer and winter.

Car oil is perfectly fine in most cases. I run halfords own brand semi-synthetic in my VFR750 and in the wifes CBR600. The engine out of my old GPZ500 (now in a mates survival bike) will have done over 90k miles on castrol GTX.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 22:32 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
As a general rule, the more you spend on the oil, the higher the service interval can be extended to.

So I use a basic, cheap 20w-50 mineral oil in my enfield bullet and change it every 1500 miles.

My mate uses royal purple oil in his track bike (a 160bhp gsxr1100 oil boiler so VERY hard on oil). You literally drain that stuff after a race, filter it through a coffee filter and re-use it. Uses the same oil for the full race season.

The viscosity to use is a function of the environmental temperatures and engine running temperatures/tolerances. Manufacturers guidelines are probably best here. In the UK, we don't see the extremes of temperature that would necessitate using a different grade in summer and winter.

Car oil is perfectly fine in most cases. I run halfords own brand semi-synthetic in my VFR750 and in the wifes CBR600. The engine out of my old GPZ500 (now in a mates survival bike) will have done over 90k miles on castrol GTX.


In countries where they have 48°C summers and -48°C winters they have to phaph with Diesel fuel and oil.
The wonderful thing is this regime is poorly managed lots of oil is wasted and sometimes the wrong grades are used.
One problem that causes this confusion is the conflicting info about lubricant properties used by manufacturers.
There are too many 'standards' to follow.
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 22:42 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

MCN wrote:


In countries where they have 48°C summers and -48°C winters they have to phaph with Diesel fuel and oil.
The wonderful thing is this regime is poorly managed lots of oil is wasted and sometimes the wrong grades are used.
One problem that causes this confusion is the conflicting info about lubricant properties used by manufacturers.
There are too many 'standards' to follow.


The more sensible ones use plug-in electric sump heaters.

My bullet can be a PITA in cold weather due to oil viscosity. The kickstart shaft runs inside the gear selector shaft which sits on an iron bush. In the winter, there can be so much friction in the system from a cold start that the bike changes into first gear as you kick the starter down, making it stall as soon as it fires. Very frustrating.

Solution is a bronze bush which I will fit as soon as I have the mental space to strip the gearbox.
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Pigeon
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PostPosted: 23:15 - 06 Aug 2019    Post subject: Re: A discussion on oil Reply with quote

Easy-X wrote:

Motorbike oil good, Car oil bad (fucks up your clutch.)


The JASO MA and MA2 standards for Motorcycle oil allows for (amongst others) ACEA A1/B1, A3/B3, A3/B4, A5/B5, C2, C3, C4.

Some of those are diesel engine oil specs. But the same oil can be used as the basis for motorbike oil (not saying it has, but it can).

In other words, almost any engine oil can be JASO MA. It's simply JASO MA means further standards have been reached (specifically around friction, because of the clutch issue).

Bottom line, any brand oil thats ACEA A3/B4 10w40 (if 10w40 is specified in your manual) will likely be fine. But your risk.
Just avoid the <40 summertime rating, or anything that says high fuel economy.


I stopped using motorbike specific oil about 70,000k miles ago.

It is sensible to assume that bike specific oil is best. But it could also mean little development is done because there isn't the return on investment for such a niche market.
For example, as of a couple of years ago, Castrol Power was still API SJ when API SN was current.
API SN had stricter cam wear limits, BUT had lower levels of Zinc. Some people put more faith in zinc levels than cam wear standards.

I use a 50:50 mix of Total Quartz 9000 5w40 and 10w50 (so 7.5w45).
API SN, Porsche A40, VW505, BMWLL01
Seems a decent oil (contains Boron, but no Molybdenum.....which isn't always bad for bikes anyway apparently, depends on type and quantity).
I don't hang around on Striple or Gixxer and clutches have not been an issue after multiple traffic light GPs, Santa Pod runs or a trackday.......actually, that bike did blow up a few months later, but it had been over-revved and been abused for most of its 50k life and sounded bad when I bought it).

Having looked at 23 different oils (car and bike), at £4.60 - £4.90 a litre I'm happy that its cheap AND good.

Is it worth scrimping over. No, probably not. I just have too much time on my hands and like to feel I know what I'm buying when in reality I know very little.
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 08:10 - 07 Aug 2019    Post subject: Re: A discussion on oil Reply with quote

Pigeon wrote:

Having looked at 23 different oils (car and bike), at £4.60 - £4.90 a litre I'm happy that its cheap AND good.



That's not cheap! I usually buy 4x gallons of 20w50 for £35, and the same amount of Semi Synth 10w40 for £45
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