A discussion on oil

[MCN]

[Easy-X]

Funny, I was reading up on bronze this morning: very good at non-binding against other metals (depending on the type of bronze alloy ofc!) Amazing to think of the first useful alloy ever made (thousands of years ago) still being useful today!
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[1198]

I do a 170 mile motorway commute on a old zzr1100. Working on the belief that most of the wear is when the engine is cold and mine therefore gets relatively little wear per mile I have no worries doing 5 to 6k per oil and filter change. I do use decent (fully synthetic) oil though, the price difference between that and semi was relatively small though. I’ll be doing it again soon, it’s getting time...

[weasley]

[Easy-X]

I almost understood all that...

So my gentle commute in the morning - suburban roads, a little dual carriageway and then the A3 - won't stress the oil and engine?
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Pigeon]

[blurredman]

[BusterGonads]

[BusterGonads]

Just another observation on my experience of semi synth and full synth oils in a hard worked little cg125. I've been riding one of these for a year (over 6000 miles) hon a pretty regular basis and it gets hammered about once a week on a 95 mile round trip where it is working at about 7200 rpm for an our out and an hour back - more or less.

I change the oil at thousand mile intervals.It only holds a litre and for the first couple of oil changes the oil was semi synth and was black by 600 miles changing from a golden colour when new.

I then spotted a good deal on Shell Advanced Ultra full synth motor cycle oil which you can buy on ebay, four litres for £24 delivered by courier to your house.

This stuff goes in pale yellow and at a thousand miles is only a touch darker than when it went in. I'd call it honey coloured at a thousand miles when the other oil was black as hell at 600. I'm guessing that the semi synth is breaking down and carbonising much faster. Like someone else said in the thread about this oil, the engine feels much smoother and easier under load and gear changes are slick and easy.

It is difficult as a rider to make objective observations about smoothness and power, so take the last bit with a pinch of salt, but the colour and texture of the oil at a thousand miles make it feel and look like new oil.

At six quid a litre it is now in all my bikes - the CG, my 2016 Street Twin and also in my new (22 year old) 250cc Nighthawk.

[MCN]

[P.]

[weasley]

Pretty much everything has come from under the ground. The point is, just because the raw materials came from crude oil (or natural gas), it doesn't mean the end result is "mineral oil". A reminder:

[Easy-X]

[MCN]

[Easy-X]

[Nobby the Bastard]

[MCN]

[P.]

[MCN]

[Kawasaki Jimbo]

[stevo as b4]

Some of this thread is interesting!

I'm going to throw some of topic shit in here though.
Firstly in engines once warmed up with oil at the right temperature, its been proven that labouring and putting high load/low speed demands on engines are bad for them and this wears parts sooner, due to extra heat and pressure on the oil film surface that makes up plain journal bearings.

But surely oils are being developed to try and cater for these situations as we are living in a downsized and downspeeded engine world now with everything highly pressure charged with air and much higher cylinder pressures, maybe except in diesels where they are reducing static compression ratios as a modern trend.

It's all in the name of emissions and fuel economy, but these short life span over complex small engines living in a 1-2bar positive pressure world seem to make life harder themselves and aren't expected to last as long. It's been mentioned that high rpm (as long as friction isn't a side effect?) is better for lubricants and engine life, so I guess the oil used in 14000rpm bike engines has an easier life?

Trouble is with cars having to meet stricter emissions legislation, its impossible to let an engine rev high now or give it the cam duration and lift it needs to even semi fill the cylinders at high speed. Manufacturers while there's any mileage left in the ICE are seemingly now concentration on the size and quality of the bangs, then extracting as much work out of them, and not the number of bangs achievable.

[BusterGonads]

[someone]

from my car experience and the way i like to keep things simple

Oil specs :jaso,GL-X,API,whatever ..... stick with the owners manual ,using anything else will increase the wear.

Weight:for winter i use heavier oil, and lighter oil for summer within the specs chart of the user manual.

mineral or not : i didnt notice any gain , so mineral is ok .

change intervals :once the oil is blackish it is time to change , i dont care what the sticker says.

Brand : my fav is LIQUI MOLY but i will use any known brand on sale such as castrol , luk , mobile 1 etc etc etc .

added info: a high specs from a shitty company is always false .
you can notice easily on brake oil , a dot 4 or 5 from that shitty company will burn or whatever you like to call it faster than from a brand dot 3 oil.



Source of info: been repairing and modding cars for the past 16 years...

I dont have any comments about porn or schools or vinger or ketchup but if you have an oil fetsh i recommand bob the oil guy
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
TOO much details on engine oils
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EJ6 FOREVER AND FOREVER A HUNDRED YEARS EJ6.

[MCN]

[Easy-X]

Well at least the link looks interesting, that's my lunchtime sorted
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter