My old things getting a bit historical

[WD Forte]

I've been hacking my current 1979 CX about since 2009
It's built on a 1979 frame but with 1982 Eurosport engine
which has TI ignition not the early CDI type

Apparently the gubment says it can now qualify as a VHI or Vehicle of Historical Interest and
so will be exempt from road tax) and MOT
I shall still get it MOt'd though and it passed last week

This was it about 18 months ago with winter leg shields on
Sod the looks, they keep your legs and feet dry and toasty when its pissing down

https://i.imgur.com/2RCcaz1.jpg

It's a working bike/hack not a garage queen but I decided its 40th birthday would be a good time for a freshen up
and I stripped all the wiring out and removed a lot of parts to check, grease, paint etc

As I built it frame up from various bikes and parts it always been a bit of a test bed for ideas and mods
and I've tried out various options and gadgets over the years.
Any mods that stayed worked reliably, but the wiring got very messy over time so a rewire was on the todo list.

The bars are going to be changed for lower ones, I have a set of GL clocks for a more conventional look and I decided a black & silver colour scheme woudl be kind of retro and easy as well

https://i.imgur.com/Fj7zB57.jpg


Way back on a whim I thought I'd have the switch wiring run inside the bars
this entailed stripping the switch gear and using thinner cables
in place of the stock ones as well drilling holes in the bars and have the wires emerge
under the fuse cover as the fuse holder plate wasn't being used and got removed.

https://i.imgur.com/2NeLz1Z.jpg

I wouldn't do it again
It all worked well for years but it was one of the reasons I put off replacing the bars which were getting rusty
If I'd needed to remove the bars or switch gear for any reason it would have been a lot more work than normal
Eventually after 5 years or so an overlooked bolt head wore through the insulation shorted the horn relay
and burnt out the wire to the horn button.
I only noticed it when taking it for an MOt test as I rarely use the horn.
It was fixed easily enough but on balance, I reckon external wiring is a more practical method.

When collecting/scrounging up bits to build the bike, I was given a set of Suzuki clocks which worked and the speedo lasted well until it was recently removed
The red led at 7 o clock on the tacho was the fan on warning light
LED temp gauge in the wee ducky
LED voltmeter in what was the Suzuki gear indicator

https://i.imgur.com/wl1QlJL.jpg

cant help buggering about with it
During the electric fan mod I chopped off the tapered end of the fan shaft to give some extra clearance for the
fan housing
Must have been in a "Tacho? We don need no stinkin tacho" mood as while i was in there I blanked off the tacho drive with
an old tacho cable end and removed the clock and added a temp gauge and led voltmeter
The HONDA engine badge was drilled so smd leds would shine out behind each letter
H - high beam O - Oil N - neutral D - fan on A - unused (possiby Azzard warning lights mebbe~?)
It worked as an experiment but did not excite.
The box also served as the main front junction box and got a bit, ok very, cramped.

Two amber led flasher repeaters were extended out and strapped to the screen support bracket
they were easily visible in my lower peripheral vision and I didn't have to move my head to check if
flasher were on or off even with full face helmet on
That was a mod I liked, I kept that one

https://i.imgur.com/tb2v4lQ.jpg

Alternative add ons that lasetd well
Suzuki clocks
Kawasaki gpz550 brake master cylinder
MZ screen and fork gaiters
Twin horn off a K100 when I had a BMW K100RS and RT

Later I modded the dash again for this

https://i.imgur.com/jY1BkeN.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/QhG0jhL.jpg

It was machined out of translucent acrylic,sprayed satin black and the led lense cut last of all


I decided to extend the box idea and this mod was used until I stripped the bike recently
It had cleaner tidier look to it and the after market temp gauge worked very well indeed.
I drilled and tapped out a stock CX sender body to accept the new 1/8th NPT sender
7 led at bottom for voltage LH leds Hi Oil Neutral
RH leds fan on an 2 unused/future mods
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
This year back to some basics
I got these Gl clocks for £30 and while pretty crusty, they tested OK so a de-rust, clean up and paint was in order
SS and brass nuts used here and all led bulbs inside now too.

https://i.imgur.com/AGyOYoM.jpg

Test fit to get an idea of layout
I had to mod a junction box to fit between the fork legs
this is where the PCB for the relays, the 7v regulator for the temp gauge will go as well as the other front end connections.

https://i.imgur.com/z0uoAEd.jpg

Headlamp bucket added to see what will go where and how

https://i.imgur.com/OGX8uti.jpg

Side view:
I knocked up some headlamp brackets from 4mm ally plate to lift the headlamp more then the old ones did
I've had had another idea in mind since but these will do for now
https://i.imgur.com/PY7PtuP.jpg

Starter motor stripped, checked, cleaned and repainted back to a conventional Black/Silver
Brushes & commutator in VGC, not much carbon dust inside.
The M5x110mm cap head bolts were a good practical mod but needed a wee bit of rust treatment
and one of the threads in the end cap was iffy and needed a helicoil.
Tested before re-fitting and all good now.
https://i.imgur.com/8Ndo6gW.jpg

Radiator and fan cleaned up and painted.
New KSD9700 80C thermo switch bonded on with JB weld.
the previous one worked very well, I reckon they're more robust than the
KSD301 can types I had used previously.
The old one worked fine, but for the £1 or so it cost, I fitted a new one.
the switch doesnt drive the fan directly but actuates a relay which handles the heavy current

https://i.imgur.com/IaKevNS.jpg

I dropped the bottom yoke and cleaned, checked and re greased the tapered rollers
Glad i remembered to do that, it's a bit of an arseache to do it when the fronts all built up
I refreshed the fork oil a few weeks ago.
https://i.imgur.com/XhStRu3.jpg

I decide to drop from 8" rise to 4" rise bars and kinda like em.
32" wide compared to the previous 28" ones.
Sprayed switch gear and MC satin black.
Plonked on the clocks briefly to get an idea of layout.
https://i.imgur.com/nfCx9Ug.jpg

Front junction box PCB Version 1.0 fitted.
Track side insulated prior to installation.
7V reg using LM317T with heat sink at top and relays for headlmap hi/lo and horn on board
Most of the lower pins are just for commoning up
after some test fits I'll decide whether to keep it or make a version 2
https://i.imgur.com/AuTa2n1.jpg

Made a 'swing door' for the under a side panel box I made up
to stow electricals in previously unused space and on a whim, some frame bungs as well

https://i.imgur.com/yzokr6m.jpg

This is what I used as a rad guard for years.
Just alloy speaker mesh bent around the rad to protect the
core from stones
https://i.imgur.com/aKPBBRG.jpg

now I has got this
https://i.imgur.com/LjduXgE.jpg

I've 'been using leds on everything but the headlamp for years but usually arrays of stock 5mm leds
which were a bit of a chore to build and while they worked reliably they were not always quite bright enough
for my liking.

This time I'm using COB leds ( chip on board) for flashers and tail lights and shop bought plug in types for the GL clocks.
Much quicker and easier to build than arrays of 5mm LEDs and when I bench tested them with a light meter
the light output from these 5W leds was more than twice as high as a 21w bulb while the temp stayed low and
easily touchable after a 1 hour soak test.

https://i.imgur.com/jyxnpuO.jpg

Here's the current state of it.
basically the same bike but tarted up and rewired and still going strong after 40 odd years.

https://imgur.com/AqIr2N2.jpg

https://imgur.com/wInORu9.jpg
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bikers smell of wee

[Easy-X]

That engine looks... interesting
____________________
Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Sister Sledge]

Yup they're big heavy engines those!
I like the idea of what you're doing - keeping an old bike going well as it slips into getting its pension.
What you're doing is good. The engine appears to be rebuilt? Other bits you're doing would either be pants due to technology at the time it was made and needing upgrading or simply ensuring things continue to work.
As a younger biker I would laugh at those bikes but I dunno - I now see them as comfortable and capable!

Mine is starting to suffer the odd electrical gremlin at 15 years old. It's mostly from a failing wiring loom around the headstock area where it bends. The main factor was the looms were made an inch too short. It will need renewing at some point. My indicators failed and were rewired but I know the rest will need it too..
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CCM 404 DS

[stinkwheel]

It's unique in this day and age. It has both mudguards, an airbox and no brown leather saddle.

Keep up the good work.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Bhud]

I like all the projects and revisions that went into this. Reminds me of when I kept changing everything on my 600 Diversion, made a custom dash, raised the rear, lowered the front, etc. and fitted these upgrades in while riding it nearly all the time.

You're only missing one thing. Matt black... matt black everywhere (except the engine, maybe)!

[kgm]

Looks good.

Mine turns 40 shortly also. Had it out yesterday for the first time in nearly two months.

Mine is pretty close to standard barring the fairing. It belonged to my grandad so I wanted to keep it as close to how it was when he rode it in the 80s.

[Meatybeaty]

Great commitment, Great looking bike

[Easy-X]

Longitudinal engine, shaft drive, water cooling... a lot happening back in '79!

Lovely work BTW
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[blurredman]

Likewise, I have to wait 2-3 years for mine to be 40 (in the eyes of registration law) 40.

And I very much intend to be doing similar. Though most of mine is frame issue unfortunately..
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CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (bored to 295cc) - 38k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 49k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k.

[yen_powell]

I was mocked for owning my CX500 back in 84/85, nowadays I would be a cool dude. Same goes for the holes all over my jeans back then.

Fuck, I was so ahead of my time and never knew it.
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Blackmail is a nasty word........but not as nasty as phlegm!
XT1200Z and a DR350 in bits

[stinkwheel]

So what you're both saying is you own a niche motorcycle people probably haven't heard of and were doing it before it was cool?
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[Easy-X]

[blurredman]

As a member of the CX500 forum (as is Forte),

I dispair at the amount of threads people create "got new bike, gonna cafe racer it".


Pretty sure, that there are more cafe racers of CX's than actual factory CX's now..
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (bored to 295cc) - 38k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 49k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k.

[A100man]

[A100man]

[WD Forte]

CX cafe racers?
Dont get me started!!!!!

Fuckin bastard form over function hipster shite so it is.
Folk who cut the rear end off and put a single shock over the skinny swinging arm
then ask 6 grand for it need their arses kicking.
That's a horrible bodge however shiny it is.
I never thought of the CX as a looker so what ever you did probably improved it
Racer? the CX never was or will be any kind of racer.

They can be solid reliable hacks when you understand them and that's all I want from mine.
As it was built from various spare parts I was free to fuck about and experiment and I did and do.

It probably wont do much over a ton but will cruise at 80mph/7000rpm on the motorway quite happily
with power in reserve, that'll do me.
Easy to work on, very few specialised tools needed.
Ignition upgrades for the early somewhat flakey, CDI ignition are now easily available but I shifted to
using the later Eurosport Transistorised ignition engines some years ago.

I used my K100s for the big rides over the UK and Ireland for years and they always got me there and back
but when I had to downsize the stable I sold all but this CX rat/tart bike with no regrets.
After a K100 I found I could fling the Cx about like a 250.

You'd think I'd be sick of it after all these years but I still enjoy tinkering and hacking it about, go figure.
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bikers smell of wee

[WD Forte]

[chickenstrip]

[Easy-X]

Just looked on eBay: 50/50 between (roughly) stock and either finished or part way through café racers
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[WD Forte]

I was looking at a ponced up CX that was going for £6000+ and thought
WTAF? I could buy a proper bike for that and as for 'classics'
have seen vintage Triumphs and BSA's going for less.

If they were dogs they'd be somewhat tubby labradors.
If they were 'cars' they'd be transit vans, not fast but reliable and practical
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bikers smell of wee

[mentalboy]

[ZedSled]

That is the way bikes need to be treated, update, modify and make them work.
I am sure this would be a forever bike and one that can be ridden all year round without any worries about polishing when you get home.
A good solid bike.

[WD Forte]

I'm in slight quandary over screens VS fairings atm
that new smallish one in the pic is a bit form over function
and I still got head buffeting at 70 ish

I know a full fairing will give maximum wind protection but
I dont do the big or rally rides any more and fitting a bag assed dustbin fairing doesn't appeal much.

I added a deflector to the screen which helped reduce head buffeting
but I still stunk of exhaust fumes after a 50 mile ride and this is the biggest drawback.

The big and ugly but useful top box probably contributes to this
and I'm mulling over my options.
____________________
bikers smell of wee

[Easy-X]

[WD Forte]

I did consider getting a full fairing as I saw a couple of cheapish ones on Ebay but I dont do the big long rides much anymore and if I can get rid of or lessen the exhaust stink I'll be Ok with that

As mentioned in the aerodynamic thread, I stunk of exaust fumes after a 50 mile ride and my initial thought was to bodgineer a silencer extension and started this but quickly abandoned the idea

https://i.imgur.com/iaGlMnl.jpg

My friendly local car guy often lets me scrounge from his skip
for odds and bits and I got a small piece of non rusty exhaust to make this

https://imgur.com/0YxOZlY.jpg


What that ? odd colour you say?
I know, but light Blue extreme temp paint was all I had to hand and
its better than nothing for now.

(Edit: Sod it,I got no class me, I kinda like it and will probably leave it like that)

I'm hoping with the exhaust directed away from the bike, less will get drawn back
in the turbulent zone caused by the screen, me and my big assed Givi box.

I shall still experiment with the screen and deflectors though
and the leg shields will soon go back on for the winter with added
Vibranium vortex generators 'n shit
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bikers smell of wee