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ThunderGuts |
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ThunderGuts World Chat Champion
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Islander |
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Islander World Chat Champion
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ThunderGuts |
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ThunderGuts World Chat Champion
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ThunderGuts |
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ThunderGuts World Chat Champion
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colink98 |
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jaffa90 |
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jaffa90 World Chat Champion
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Posted: 10:23 - 11 Sep 2019 Post subject: |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 10:26 - 11 Sep 2019 Post subject: |
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Be aware that depending on where n the loom you attach it, you can get varying voltage readings and real variation when you turn things on and off.
As such, probably the best place to fit it is in onto the main feed coming back from the ignition switch to the fusebox which will give you a reading as close to the level of the battery as possible while still being switched.
You CAN use any switched live but if you use the headlight one, you'll read a comparatively larger drop in voltage when you put the lights on than if you measured at the battery.
This is not necessarily a problem because you're more looking at differences in how the voltage sits during normal riding/rest than the outright voltage. If the regulator failed giving an over-voltage, you'd see that. Also interesting to see how quickly it recovers to normal after starting, that's a good indicator of battery health.
So for example. I fitted mine in the feed to my accessory relay because that was a convenient place for it. My VFR normally sits at 13.6V with the headlight on. It's recently dropped to 13.3V which makes me suspect the battery is starting to flag. However with the lights off, it still sits at 14.2, which is what it did with a brand new battery suggesting that's the maximum charging voltage reading at that point in the loom. The regulator has kicked in at that point. If I were to measure the voltage at the battery, it would be slightly higher. If I use my heated grips I get a comparatively large drop on my meter but I know this is because of where the meter is located rather than because of a fault.
Of course, as all enfield owners know, ammeters are where it's at. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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dynax |
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dynax Trackday Trickster
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WD Forte |
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WD Forte World Chat Champion
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Islander |
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Islander World Chat Champion
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Polarbear |
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Polarbear Super Spammer
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Posted: 16:44 - 11 Sep 2019 Post subject: |
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One thing to remember -
For a check of the battery condition rather than alternator/regulator output you should wait at least an hour after running the bike or charging or whatever. The battery will settle at it's standing voltage which will give a rough idea as to its cell condition and the charge it is holding.
It's more accurate to use a hydrometer but who can be arsed with that on a bike battery.
As a rough guide I use this to check boat batteries (my bowthruster ones sit at 12.2 and are pretty goosed )
Obviously not set in stone as you will probably have cranking problems well before the charge drops very low with a bike battery but another tool for diagnostics.
https://www.traxide.com.au/DATA/S_SoC_Table.jpg ____________________ Triumph Trophy Launch Edition |
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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colink98 |
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ThunderGuts |
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ThunderGuts World Chat Champion
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
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ThunderGuts |
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ThunderGuts World Chat Champion
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Polarbear |
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Polarbear Super Spammer
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 4 years, 198 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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