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How long do your back brake pads last?

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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 11:36 - 15 Aug 2019    Post subject: How long do your back brake pads last? Reply with quote

Soooooo, Last year around november i fit new seals and pads on the back brake, used EBS sinted organic (i think)

They felt great a decent short travel on the pedal, my old disk was pretty worn and could do with a replacement but at the time wanted to put it off... and then I got a local mechanic to do a service on the bike, and ever since them my back brake has been super squishy Like scary amount of tavel...

Anyway since then I had tried to get a replacment disk but the one i got ended up not being compatible with my bike as it didnt have recessed nut spaces and the nuts would have hit the calipers if i used it...

Anyway flash forward a few more months to today... New disk just turned up Arashi, as the front ones i got of theres were great, really couldnt fault them, so went with there back ones... This fits fine...

But my pads WTF?! theyre worn down flat... As in GONE! I knew something didnt feel right and it wasnt breaking as effectively as it was before... But just WOW, could i REALLY have worn my pads out in 9 months?

My brother and dad say theres NO way that the mechanic i used would just swap my relatively new pads for really worn out old ones... But I just never would have thought my pads be THIS worn out less than 1 year of them going in... What is also really strange is the seals on my back break are also utterly fooked as well and looks worn out and old... Again I had replaced them last year... Im just feeling really gob smacked....

What do you guys think? Did I really ware them down, or has some one done a funny on me?
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kgm
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PostPosted: 11:49 - 15 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

If they've been binding or you use your back brake more then necessary then they could have. I don't know your riding style but most of your braking should come from the front at anything over walking pace (obvious exemptions not withstanding).

Also pads shouldn't affect lever travel to any great extent. As the pads wear the pistons move out to take up the gap. If the lever is squishy feeling then the lines likely need bled. Although if there's crud behind the dust seals then they can grip the piston and cause it to retract too much which can also lead to longer lever travel. The er6 is notorious for this if ridden regularly in the wet/winter.

I had to clean my calipers every few weeks in winter to keep them good on the er6 and I generally replaced the seals every spring. Not a fan of Tokico calipers. After cleaning the calipers, you can pump the pistons out a bit, put s light coating of red rubber grease around them and then push them in again before wiping off the excess. This adds a layer of protection for the dust seals and helps to keep the pistons sliding properly without the dust seal dragging on them. Made a big difference on my er6. Always use genuine seals too, the aftermarket ones I've never found to be as good a fit or as durable.

Another also - sintered and organic pads are two different things. Sintered have fragments of metal in them to produce greater stopping power, tend to be longer lasting but also wear discs faster. Organic produce less stopping power, particularly in the wet, wear faster but are easier on disks.

If fitting new disks you should also fit new pads anyway as they wear into the disks and will be less effective with the new disk.


Last edited by kgm on 11:59 - 15 Aug 2019; edited 1 time in total
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NutsyUk
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PostPosted: 11:58 - 15 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

kgm wrote:
If they've been binding or you use your back brake more then necessary then they could have. I don't know your riding style but most of your braking should come from the front at anything over walking pace (obvious exemptions not withstanding).

Also pads shouldn't affect lever travel to any great extent. As the pads wear the pistons move out to take up the gap. If the lever is squishy feeling then the lines likely need bled. Although if there's crud behind the dust seals then they can grip the piston and cause it to retract too much which can also lead to longer lever travel.

Another also - sintered and organic pads are two different things. Sintered have fragments of metal in them to produce greater stopping power, tend to be longer lasting but also wear discs faster. Organic produce less stopping power, particularly in the wet, wear faster but are easier on disks.


Yeah i must admit im not overly sure what i used, so thanks for that clarification. thinking back I remember some brass fragments in the pads so i guess just plane sintered.

And yeah after getting the bike back from the mechanic I had a go at rebleeding the break line (we have a pump for it) and there wasnt any air in the line... Like i say all really very strange. I dont want to start throwing blame around or suspect the mechanic of pulling a fast one... Brother and dad say the guy would never do such a thing. I dont know him as well as they do. Just very strange.
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Yamaha FZ8/Fazer800 (split headlight one) 2014, gingerly getting used to the massive increase in HP and not killing myself in the process! That was easy to get used to.
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Lexmoto XTR S 125 Sold!
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kgm
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PostPosted: 12:00 - 15 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I edited my post to add more info as you were replying, bit more er6 specific info in there now.
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Old Git Racing
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PostPosted: 19:19 - 15 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never had to change back brake pads on any bike I've owned, very rarely use it.

OGR
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Islander
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PostPosted: 19:28 - 15 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Old Git Racing wrote:
Never had to change back brake pads on any bike I've owned, very rarely use it.

OGR


This. The back brake is only used to stabilise slow speed stuff and coming to a halt on my bikes.
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MCN
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PostPosted: 23:06 - 15 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where is the back brake on a bike? 🤔 🤣

I use the back for parking.
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The Shaggy D.A.
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PostPosted: 10:47 - 16 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I only use the rear brake to keep the brake light lit at junctions. Or on ice. But I don't ride on ice.
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Alex A
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PostPosted: 23:11 - 16 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Old Git Racing wrote:
Never had to change back brake pads on any bike I've owned, very rarely use it.

OGR


Ditto
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Courier265
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PostPosted: 23:45 - 16 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Islander wrote:
Old Git Racing wrote:
Never had to change back brake pads on any bike I've owned, very rarely use it.

OGR


This. The back brake is only used to stabilise slow speed stuff and coming to a halt on my bikes.


In my job I do a lot of very slow riding so I do use my rears a lot and also useful for the brake light if my front brake switch is broken.

My Rears pads last about 4-5K depending on the brand of brake.
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redeem ouzzer
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PostPosted: 13:20 - 17 Aug 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I usually stick the cheapest pads possible in the rear and have even been known to run around without fluid in the rear brake without noticing until it was moaned about at MOT. Rear discs are as useful as tits on a fish.
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Feasty
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PostPosted: 16:42 - 11 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ride a BMW F650 and replaced the rear pads around March time this year with an Ebay set of ceramic carbon pads. Yesterday I noticed they were screeching every now and then and look almost down to the bone.

Now ordered another set of just rear pads from a different seller in case the last lot were not at their best - lasting 6-7 months over about 3-4k miles isn't brill.

I've not had to replace the front pads since I got the bike in May 2018. I am very much a back brake user though out of habit. I always use gears to slow down, then gradual back brake and front too if it's really needed. In an emergency I'd rather grab too much back brake first, lock up and release - than too much front brake, lock up and fall off.
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