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Project 20190912 Honda CD200 Benly 1980

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Comuk
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 18 Aug 2019
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PostPosted: 00:23 - 30 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
There is a 4-5 inch piece of chromed cover which I am trying to remove, not the shrouds. It is like an extension of the shroud
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mentalboy
World Chat Champion



Joined: 05 May 2012
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PostPosted: 00:33 - 30 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
Comuk wrote:
There is a 4-5 inch piece of chromed cover which I am trying to remove, not the shrouds. It is like an extension of the shroud


Are you sure that comes off the lower? You mean the shield between the lowers and the painted upper shields? I would have thought that it would still be possible to replace the oil seals with the shield in place but will be helpful to remove the lowers as it could be tricky replacing the seals squarely with the shield and stanchions in the way.
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Comuk
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 18 Aug 2019
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PostPosted: 16:43 - 30 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
I saw it in youtube but the guy was hammering it and I think it will just bend it if I do that. I marked the section in the below photo

https://i.ibb.co/tmG4QMs/53-C36-DE6-CDB8-4-EEE-B86-B-9-A52769-F43-DC.jpg
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Comuk
Borekit Bruiser



Joined: 18 Aug 2019
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PostPosted: 16:46 - 30 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
https://youtu.be/1lGZvxDEgu0

The first few seconds show how he is removing it. I tried it but it is not moving!!!
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Easy-X
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Joined: 08 Mar 2019
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PostPosted: 17:33 - 30 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
I see... so the chrome shrouds are where rubber dust cover boots would normally go. Giving it a wack with a screw driver or chisel (as in the video) should do it unless...

I can only think that they were loose and someone soldered/glued/epoxied/spot-welded the things on Sad Might want to see if you can source replacements afore the the next bout of brute force and ignorance Very Happy
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 17:37 - 30 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
mentalboy wrote:
I always found it harder once the spring pressure was released, not sure how many you've done but older shit was definitely worse to get apart. I've probably got more than fifty stripdowns under my belt on machines from the 70's through to the mid 90's. Mercifully few have needed the bolt drilling out.

True, the area of travel is the only important bit and if you look closely at the pictures you can easily tell where the yokes sit and how much has corroded between the lower yoke and the oil seals at rest


I've only done half a dozen but it always seemed mad to me to take the main spring out given it's pressing on the damping rod. Of course the correct way would be to have a really long socket extension with the appropriate bit on the end to mate up with the damper top.

<addendum> a solid wack is still a good thing Smile
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mentalboy
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Joined: 05 May 2012
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PostPosted: 23:08 - 30 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote
Easy-X wrote:
Of course the correct way would be to have a really long socket extension with the appropriate bit on the end to mate up with the damper top.

<addendum> a solid wack is still a good thing Smile


Trouble is that every manufacturer has a 'special tool' for the job and naturally each one is different. It is usually easy enough to fashion a 'special tool' but only when you've got the stanchion out, by which time you don't need the bloody tool!

As for the shields, good to look for glue, solder etc but most likely they are aided by rust. I think I may have advised before for the engine but same advice applies - soak in diesel for a while. Then attempt stanchion removal and then follow youtuber's example and 'it it wiv a 'ammer!
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Old Thread Alert!

The last post was made 4 years, 116 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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