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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 11:34 - 30 Sep 2019    Post subject: Floor void water removal Reply with quote

Morning,

So we have an "interesting" problem at our house; it's a 1920s semi with a fairly substantial floor void beneath the suspended floors; anywhere between 60 - 90cm of space under the floor to the earth. Except, most of the time at least part of the earthed area is actually a puddle / small lake, anywhere between 10% and 90% coverage of the underfloor area. It's definitely ground water, plenty of tests/investigation - it appears to be a "feature" of the area affecting others too. General consensus online is that it's not that unusual, many people simply ignore it . . . but it's making the downstairs rooms have a very high humidity (e.g. the living room, approx 12ft square, has a dehumidifier running in there and set to 70% humidity, it's pulling 2 litres out of the air per day!).

I am going to increase ventilation (there are currently about 9 airbricks) to help preserve the timber floors from the damp air, but really I want to lower the water level too. The thing is, I'm a bit concerned about what effect doing so might have on the foundations of the house as they're used to sitting in saturated ground. The other thing I'm concerned about, is if I make the area under the house effectively a locally lowered water table (it's clay so I won't be fighting a massive flow of water, e.g. if I lived in a sandy area) there's going to be a natural movement of water into that void from the surrounding area - my concern here is this might, over time, erode pathways through the ground which could also introduce problems.

I see two possible routes;

- The simplest, cheapest and least destructive is to install a sump pump in the lowest point of the underside of the house and pump the water out. Installation would be a pain as I'd need to dewater while I did it (simple enough install, dig a hole and drop a perforated chamber, then the sump pump would live inside that chamber - there's a gully immediately outside the house for the gutters which could be used to take the water - quantities would be fairly small once the level has been established)

- Install a French drain all the way around the perimeter of the house. It'd need to be 1m deep realistically to catch everything, installation would be pretty destructive as there's imprinted concrete drive around 2 of the 3 faces of the house and a patio at the rear, plus dodging services. Care would also be needed to avoid damaging the foundations. Advantages is it'd be a better overall solution as they'd be no issue with water flowing into the floor void. It'd still need a pump of some description though.

Any thoughts on the above? Anyone encountered a similar issue?

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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 11:45 - 30 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where's the water level in relation to the damp-proof course? Got any pics?

ASSUMING that the DPC is well above normal water level, I'd be tempted to infill as needed and then place a polythene DPC over.
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 12:01 - 30 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
Where's the water level in relation to the damp-proof course? Got any pics?

ASSUMING that the DPC is well above normal water level, I'd be tempted to infill as needed and then place a polythene DPC over.


There's no DPC as such as it's an old house; the joists sit on slates as a nod towards a DPC. Haven't got any photographs unfortunately.

I have thought about infill, but the volume is huge; floor area is approximately 70 sqm, so it'd require 35 cubic metres of fill. Plus it'd then mean access to the floor void would be virtually nill, a pain for any electrical or central heating work as pipes and cables are routed under there.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 12:34 - 30 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThunderGuts wrote:
There's no DPC as such as it's an old house; the joists sit on slates as a nod towards a DPC.


That *is* a DPC, and unless it's deteriorated badly or been damaged, a good one. EDIT: You say "the joists sit on slates". I assume that's where they sit on the sleeper walls. If your house is '20s I would be very, very surprised were there no damp course in the wall. Outside, look for an extra-thick joint. Inside, look for the same, or even slate edges protuding from the joints.

ThunderGuts wrote:
I have thought about infill, but the volume is huge; floor area is approximately 70 sqm, so it'd require 35 cubic metres of fill. Plus it'd then mean access to the floor void would be virtually nill, a pain for any electrical or central heating work as pipes and cables are routed under there.


Why would you need 35 cu m? Surely the water doesn't lap the bottom of the joists? You only need enough infill to raise the level above the water, and if you only have part of the ground under water, it might not even be over the full area.
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dynax
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PostPosted: 12:40 - 30 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leave it alone the house has been built with all this in mind, tampering with it will do more harm than good, it has survived a 100 years with very little attention so why start now Laughing
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doggone
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PostPosted: 12:44 - 30 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

dynax wrote:
Leave it alone the house has been built with all this in mind, tampering with it will do more harm than good, it has survived a 100 years with very little attention so why start now Laughing

Agree with this, most houses are sat on damp if not wet soil which is probably producing almost as much humidity under the floor.
The key is adequate ventilation below as you already are on to.
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 13:31 - 30 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
ThunderGuts wrote:
There's no DPC as such as it's an old house; the joists sit on slates as a nod towards a DPC.


That *is* a DPC, and unless it's deteriorated badly or been damaged, a good one. EDIT: You say "the joists sit on slates". I assume that's where they sit on the sleeper walls. If your house is '20s I would be very, very surprised were there no damp course in the wall. Outside, look for an extra-thick joint. Inside, look for the same, or even slate edges protuding from the joints.

ThunderGuts wrote:
I have thought about infill, but the volume is huge; floor area is approximately 70 sqm, so it'd require 35 cubic metres of fill. Plus it'd then mean access to the floor void would be virtually nill, a pain for any electrical or central heating work as pipes and cables are routed under there.


Why would you need 35 cu m? Surely the water doesn't lap the bottom of the joists? You only need enough infill to raise the level above the water, and if you only have part of the ground under water, it might not even be over the full area.


I'll look more closely; the joists sit on slates on the sleeper and perimeter walls as you've said, I'm not sure I've seen an obvious DPC anywhere but I'll look more closely.

In terms of fill, so I was working on the basis that when the water is at the highest I've seen it, it's an average depth of around 200mm across 90% of the floor area (maybe slightly more) - so I was adding a bit of extra to account for extremes of water level. You're probably right, I'm probably over-egging it a bit but it's still a decent volume.

With regards to it having always been that way, perhaps - but the timber floor is 20% moisture content which is way too high and every timber floor has been replaced barring the back reception room (which is visibly older than the other rooms). I suspect this is due to previous timber deterioration as a result of damp. Plus, the ambient moisture levels in the downstairs rooms are so high as a result it's causing mould growth in some places!
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 14:43 - 30 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThunderGuts wrote:
With regards to it having always been that way, perhaps - but the timber floor is 20% moisture content which is way too high and every timber floor has been replaced barring the back reception room (which is visibly older than the other rooms). I suspect this is due to previous timber deterioration as a result of damp. Plus, the ambient moisture levels in the downstairs rooms are so high as a result it's causing mould growth in some places!

The problem with just draining the wet is that the soil will stay damp anyway, and also if you lower the water table very appreciably you may find other problems (e.g. soil shrinkage).

It might be worth looking at the underfloor and ventilation generally. Has a conservatory (or something) been added, reducing ventilation by removing/blocking air bricks? Are sleeper or internal walls blocking ventilation? There should be a through-flow of air. Is there adequate ventilation above the floor (or a source of humitity contributing to the damp, mould above floor suggests a problem)? Have you enough airbricks? I'd say there should be about 5 "ordinary" 9x3 airbricks on an 8m wall. Plastic airbricks provide more ventilation per "brick"
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 15:21 - 30 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

This ^^
Something has changed. Yes they're known for it as you say earlier on but now it's too much - there has to be a reason.

Firstly check for a leak on a pipe. Then check for broken drains. I know someone who'd broken a hot water pipe and it had been leaking under the floor for a year. It had caused massive problems aside from higher bills!
You mentioned concreted ground outside. What else was done? Were drains moved or re-done? Perhaps not correctly or perhaps in a way which means ground water has to run a different route and that route is through the floor void.

Half my street has underfloor pumps (4 1/5 foot gap) because we're sited on the edge slope of an old pond. We have actual foundations etc and they cope well with being pumped. Mine doesn't have a pump but next door and the rest do. They work via a float valve in a sump.
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 16:42 - 30 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:

The problem with just draining the wet is that the soil will stay damp anyway, and also if you lower the water table very appreciably you may find other problems (e.g. soil shrinkage).

It might be worth looking at the underfloor and ventilation generally. Has a conservatory (or something) been added, reducing ventilation by removing/blocking air bricks? Are sleeper or internal walls blocking ventilation? There should be a through-flow of air. Is there adequate ventilation above the floor (or a source of humitity contributing to the damp, mould above floor suggests a problem)? Have you enough airbricks? I'd say there should be about 5 "ordinary" 9x3 airbricks on an 8m wall. Plastic airbricks provide more ventilation per "brick"


I want to put more airbricks in regardless. I was actually contemplating if I can get the water level below the surface, not much more though, I can probably be in a position where I'm not adversely affecting the foundations. I was then thinking of laying thick plastic sheeting over the earth with a slight upturn on the edges (maybe 100mm), but with a drain point above the sump should any water somehow get on top of it. My thinking is this would massively reduce the "wet surface area" and therefore evaporation into the air under the house, with the added benefit that crawl access would be more pleasant too! I can't see any obvious issues with doing this.

Sister Sledge wrote:

This ^^
Something has changed. Yes they're known for it as you say earlier on but now it's too much - there has to be a reason.

Firstly check for a leak on a pipe. Then check for broken drains. I know someone who'd broken a hot water pipe and it had been leaking under the floor for a year. It had caused massive problems aside from higher bills!
You mentioned concreted ground outside. What else was done? Were drains moved or re-done? Perhaps not correctly or perhaps in a way which means ground water has to run a different route and that route is through the floor void.


There is a kitchen extension (solid floor) that has blocked, I suspect, a few airbricks (roughly 40% of the rear wall of the house) - but the extension was built in the 1930s so I wouldn't classify that as a change as such given it's such long term. There are still airbricks in the corner of that underfloor void anyway, although not enough I'd say.

Drains are, as far as I can tell, are unchanged. Water has been tested - nil for chlorine, sewerage etc. so pretty sure it's not coming out of a pipe (combined sewers so I'd expect to see something if they're leaking, even if the water bulk is caused by rainwater).

Incidentally, as I mentioned there is a widespread issue locally which strongly points towards groundwater - there are (natural) ponds not far away and houses nearby that have cellars have all had to install sump pumps to arrest water ingress. The water I get is (seemingly) perfectly pure - completely clear and odourless.
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BTTD
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PostPosted: 16:58 - 30 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a similar problem in the dining room at the rear on my 1908 terrace. Next door neighbours gutter drain was blocked and cracked and effectively flooding my floor void - you could see the water coming in from that corner during heavy rain. Neighbour fixed the drain, problem solved.

Friend had a similar problem in his detached house (similar age, but more rural). His gutter drains went into a soak away right next to the wall. Over decades the soakaway, well it wasn't, so the water flooded the void. He put new drainage in taking the water away from the house and has not had a problem since.

Do not fill in. Additional air bricks won't hurt, but will not solve the problem. Get rid of the water.

If you do decide to fill in, use gravel, not dirt. When the water level drops the gravel will drain and not hold moisture. Slugs and all sorts of mould like damp areas........
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 17:49 - 30 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThunderGuts wrote:
There is a kitchen extension (solid floor) that has blocked, I suspect, a few airbricks (roughly 40% of the rear wall of the house) - but the extension was built in the 1930s so I wouldn't classify that as a change as such given it's such long term.

Could be what did for the previous floors. Dunno. What should have been done is to pipe through the solid floor to vents, but I doubt you'll be abl to find the builder now.

ThunderGuts wrote:
There are still airbricks in the corner of that underfloor void anyway, although not enough I'd say.


Post a sketch of the floorplan?

ThunderGuts wrote:
there are (natural) ponds not far away and houses nearby that have cellars have all had to install sump pumps to arrest water ingress

I'm not surprised if the water table's only a metre below damp. However, they are in a different situation to you.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 17:59 - 30 Sep 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

jnw010 wrote:
Do not fill in

Why? It's the best way to fix it.

jnw010 wrote:
If you do decide to fill in, use gravel, not dirt. When the water level drops the gravel will drain and not hold moisture

The point of infilling is to raise surface above the water table, so that a DPM can be installed as a vapour barrier. I'd be inclined to use crushed concrete of a suitable grade, say 75-40mm, blinded and then go on that. Bit of a job, but I think he's set his heart on a sump & pump... maybe proper ventilation would be better (perhaps insulate the floor.... another job Smile ).
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 08:44 - 01 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a plan of the floor void area. Sleeper walls in black, party wall in green. Existing (functioning) airbricks are in red, although all are old style so not the most efficient compared with modern plastic ones. I suspect, but can't be sure, that there were airbricks at the end of the kitchen and possibly where the porch is (although with the latter, the porch height is only 1 brick course and I can't see any, plus I'm pretty sure it's original with the house).

I think, from memory, that there are gaps between the joists and the sleeper walls, i.e. airflow can move across the top of the sleeper walls and isn't limited to the openings . . .
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 10:22 - 01 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

mpd72 wrote:
I'd be tempted to find out if this is really just the water table, or a blocked or old soak away from a gutter causing this.
Could you not dig a small hole somewhere on the outside, away from gutter drains, to measure the water table depth outside the house, using the damp course as a guide?

See if the depth is relevant to the depth inside, after heavy rain.

I just get the feeling that if the void has always been an indoor lake, there would be a lot more signs of historic damp in the house.


Both neighbours have the same issue, some having lived there for nearly 20 years and said it's always been the same. I'm going to buy some proper tracer dye and throw it down the front gully (the sewer connection runs out of the back garden, so I'll start with the farthest point; I suspect this pipe runs under the house) and give it a day to see if it appears in the water underneath. If not, I'll work my way around to the other two pots and see what happens.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 10:41 - 01 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThunderGuts wrote:
I'm going to buy some proper tracer dye and throw it down the front gully (the sewer connection runs out of the back garden, so I'll start with the farthest point; I suspect this pipe runs under the house)

There shouldn't be any soil pipe at all running under your house. Your water supplier will be able to give you an idea of where runs are if you have a shared drain.

I don't iunderstand your floorplan (what is the scale, too?). It looks as though you have shown internal walls (these should have through apertures in the void to allow through flow). Sleeper walls are low walls under the floor, often "honeycombed" (i.e. gaps between the ends of the bricks), which should incorporate a continuous DPC under a timber wall plate which the joists rest on. You might find them part-way along the joist span as well as at the ends.
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 11:49 - 01 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:

There shouldn't be any soil pipe at all running under your house. Your water supplier will be able to give you an idea of where runs are if you have a shared drain.

I don't iunderstand your floorplan (what is the scale, too?). It looks as though you have shown internal walls (these should have through apertures in the void to allow through flow). Sleeper walls are low walls under the floor, often "honeycombed" (i.e. gaps between the ends of the bricks), which should incorporate a continuous DPC under a timber wall plate which the joists rest on. You might find them part-way along the joist span as well as at the ends.


The combined foul (shared with two other properties) runs across our back garden; the pipework needs to get there somehow from the rainwater gully at the front of the house near the party wall, it's possible it runs around the perimeter of the house but I doubt it as it's a very long run compared with going directly.

The drawing isn't to scale; the black are the wall structures in the void, typically with internal walls above them. I guess they aren't true sleeper walls in that respect . . . the joist spans are supported with brick piers (see picture I took last night - by poking my phone through the vent for the old gas fire in the back room!). This, as per the diagram, is one of the higher areas of the underfloor area. The photo is taken in the top right hand corner of my diagram, next to the party wall, looking towards the porch direction.
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Diggs
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PostPosted: 12:28 - 01 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are on clay. It has a capacity to hold water, and its volume is dependent to a degree on the level of saturation. Take the water out of it completely and it will shrink, potentially causing you structural problems.

Looking at the photo it is clear that you do have an issue that needs resolving though. If it is something that has worsened recently it will either be that surrounding ground has reached saturation point and can't drain quickly enough after heavy rain, or you have a leak. You can find and fix a leak. If it isn't that, you need a sump pump as you suggested.

Assuming your surface water goes to a drain, I'd suggest you pump it to this via a length of hosepipe in the first instance to see if it resolves the problem. If it does, only then look for a permanent solution.

Note that if you connect to a public sewer (i.e. after your drain has connected to something else), you may need Building Regs and consent from the Statutory Undertaker. Far simpler to connect to the drain....
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 12:43 - 01 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Diggs wrote:
You are on clay. It has a capacity to hold water, and its volume is dependent to a degree on the level of saturation. Take the water out of it completely and it will shrink, potentially causing you structural problems.

Looking at the photo it is clear that you do have an issue that needs resolving though. If it is something that has worsened recently it will either be that surrounding ground has reached saturation point and can't drain quickly enough after heavy rain, or you have a leak. You can find and fix a leak. If it isn't that, you need a sump pump as you suggested.

Assuming your surface water goes to a drain, I'd suggest you pump it to this via a length of hosepipe in the first instance to see if it resolves the problem. If it does, only then look for a permanent solution.

Note that if you connect to a public sewer (i.e. after your drain has connected to something else), you may need Building Regs and consent from the Statutory Undertaker. Far simpler to connect to the drain....


Yep, precisely why any drainage would only be to take water off the surface of the clay, not to completely dewater the substrate.

I have previously pumped it to gain access to the underfloor area; it took a lot to get it out (massive volume) but once out, it stayed pretty dry for several days before slowly creeping back up again, albeit to a lower level than previously - this to me points (again) towards groundwater. It clearly can get away, so if it's groundwater the same pathway could introduce water too.

Drain dye will be interesting to see if anything shows, but I suspect not.
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Diggs
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PostPosted: 13:07 - 01 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Think about the weather also. If the ground outside the house has reached saturation point because of a period of heavy rain then this is likely to contribute to the problem. The water in the void has nowhere to soak away to...

This is a common problem where I live and I have a pump under the floor for the same reason.
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PostPosted: 13:16 - 01 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riejufixing wrote:
jnw010 wrote:
Do not fill in

Why? It's the best way to fix it.

jnw010 wrote:
If you do decide to fill in, use gravel, not dirt. When the water level drops the gravel will drain and not hold moisture

The point of infilling is to raise surface above the water table, so that a DPM can be installed as a vapour barrier. I'd be inclined to use crushed concrete of a suitable grade, say 75-40mm, blinded and then go on that. Bit of a job, but I think he's set his heart on a sump & pump... maybe proper ventilation would be better (perhaps insulate the floor.... another job Smile ).


The reason for the depth of the void is to allow a decent distance from damp earth to the floor joists so that moving air can clear through. If he fills the void in with dirt, he's reducing that efficiency and increasing the dampness in his house as the dirt will hold moisture. It will be counter productive. Hence the advice to not fill it in.

My mum's place is on a hill and never had any issues with water until a few years ago when a place a few hundred yards away backfilled a large ditch as part of a garden landscaping exercise. Fortunately my father had insisted on total overkill of French drains when he had the place built and the increased level of water flow you can see through the exit is staggering. The ground is still notably wetter than it ever was before. Her immediate neighbour however had significant problems with water getting into his basement garage and his garden becoming a bog.
I'm agreeing with the other posters that something has changed as some point to create this issue.
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Riejufixing
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PostPosted: 13:36 - 01 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

jnw010 wrote:
If he fills the void in with dirt, he's reducing that efficiency and increasing the dampness in his house as the dirt will hold moisture.

The advice was to fill to cover the water then add a DPM, not to fill the thing completely!
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 14:58 - 01 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is kind of the logic behind my original suggestion; use a sump pump to remove surface water, then cover with heavy grade plastic sheeting, not a full "bathtub" but lapping maybe 100mm up the walls. This will mean there is very little wet surface to get evaporation from, while airflow will be unaffected. Reducing water to just below the surface shouldn't affect the foundations as I'm not drying out the ground, just removing water that sits on the surface.

It's still a heck of a job though . . .
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