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ThunderGuts |
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ThunderGuts World Chat Champion
Joined: 13 Nov 2018 Karma :
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Posted: 11:34 - 30 Sep 2019 Post subject: Floor void water removal |
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Morning,
So we have an "interesting" problem at our house; it's a 1920s semi with a fairly substantial floor void beneath the suspended floors; anywhere between 60 - 90cm of space under the floor to the earth. Except, most of the time at least part of the earthed area is actually a puddle / small lake, anywhere between 10% and 90% coverage of the underfloor area. It's definitely ground water, plenty of tests/investigation - it appears to be a "feature" of the area affecting others too. General consensus online is that it's not that unusual, many people simply ignore it . . . but it's making the downstairs rooms have a very high humidity (e.g. the living room, approx 12ft square, has a dehumidifier running in there and set to 70% humidity, it's pulling 2 litres out of the air per day!).
I am going to increase ventilation (there are currently about 9 airbricks) to help preserve the timber floors from the damp air, but really I want to lower the water level too. The thing is, I'm a bit concerned about what effect doing so might have on the foundations of the house as they're used to sitting in saturated ground. The other thing I'm concerned about, is if I make the area under the house effectively a locally lowered water table (it's clay so I won't be fighting a massive flow of water, e.g. if I lived in a sandy area) there's going to be a natural movement of water into that void from the surrounding area - my concern here is this might, over time, erode pathways through the ground which could also introduce problems.
I see two possible routes;
- The simplest, cheapest and least destructive is to install a sump pump in the lowest point of the underside of the house and pump the water out. Installation would be a pain as I'd need to dewater while I did it (simple enough install, dig a hole and drop a perforated chamber, then the sump pump would live inside that chamber - there's a gully immediately outside the house for the gutters which could be used to take the water - quantities would be fairly small once the level has been established)
- Install a French drain all the way around the perimeter of the house. It'd need to be 1m deep realistically to catch everything, installation would be pretty destructive as there's imprinted concrete drive around 2 of the 3 faces of the house and a patio at the rear, plus dodging services. Care would also be needed to avoid damaging the foundations. Advantages is it'd be a better overall solution as they'd be no issue with water flowing into the floor void. It'd still need a pump of some description though.
Any thoughts on the above? Anyone encountered a similar issue?
Cheers ____________________ TG. |
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Riejufixing |
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Riejufixing World Chat Champion
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ThunderGuts |
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ThunderGuts World Chat Champion
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Riejufixing |
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Riejufixing World Chat Champion
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Posted: 12:34 - 30 Sep 2019 Post subject: |
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ThunderGuts wrote: | There's no DPC as such as it's an old house; the joists sit on slates as a nod towards a DPC. |
That *is* a DPC, and unless it's deteriorated badly or been damaged, a good one. EDIT: You say "the joists sit on slates". I assume that's where they sit on the sleeper walls. If your house is '20s I would be very, very surprised were there no damp course in the wall. Outside, look for an extra-thick joint. Inside, look for the same, or even slate edges protuding from the joints.
ThunderGuts wrote: | I have thought about infill, but the volume is huge; floor area is approximately 70 sqm, so it'd require 35 cubic metres of fill. Plus it'd then mean access to the floor void would be virtually nill, a pain for any electrical or central heating work as pipes and cables are routed under there. |
Why would you need 35 cu m? Surely the water doesn't lap the bottom of the joists? You only need enough infill to raise the level above the water, and if you only have part of the ground under water, it might not even be over the full area. |
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dynax Trackday Trickster
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- Super Spammer
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Posted: 13:01 - 30 Sep 2019 Post subject: Re: Floor void water removal |
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ThunderGuts wrote: | Morning,
So we have an "interesting" problem at our house; it's a 1920s semi with a fairly substantial floor void beneath the suspended floors; anywhere between 60 - 90cm of space under the floor to the earth. Except, most of the time at least part of the earthed area is actually a puddle / small lake, anywhere between 10% and 90% coverage of the underfloor area. It's definitely ground water, plenty of tests/investigation - it appears to be a "feature" of the area affecting others too. General consensus online is that it's not that unusual, many people simply ignore it . . . but it's making the downstairs rooms have a very high humidity (e.g. the living room, approx 12ft square, has a dehumidifier running in there and set to 70% humidity, it's pulling 2 litres out of the air per day!).
I am going to increase ventilation (there are currently about 9 airbricks) to help preserve the timber floors from the damp air, but really I want to lower the water level too. The thing is, I'm a bit concerned about what effect doing so might have on the foundations of the house as they're used to sitting in saturated ground. The other thing I'm concerned about, is if I make the area under the house effectively a locally lowered water table (it's clay so I won't be fighting a massive flow of water, e.g. if I lived in a sandy area) there's going to be a natural movement of water into that void from the surrounding area - my concern here is this might, over time, erode pathways through the ground which could also introduce problems.
I see two possible routes;
- The simplest, cheapest and least destructive is to install a sump pump in the lowest point of the underside of the house and pump the water out. Installation would be a pain as I'd need to dewater while I did it (simple enough install, dig a hole and drop a perforated chamber, then the sump pump would live inside that chamber - there's a gully immediately outside the house for the gutters which could be used to take the water - quantities would be fairly small once the level has been established)
- Install a French drain all the way around the perimeter of the house. It'd need to be 1m deep realistically to catch everything, installation would be pretty destructive as there's imprinted concrete drive around 2 of the 3 faces of the house and a patio at the rear, plus dodging services. Care would also be needed to avoid damaging the foundations. Advantages is it'd be a better overall solution as they'd be no issue with water flowing into the floor void. It'd still need a pump of some description though.
Any thoughts on the above? Anyone encountered a similar issue?
Cheers |
If it's groundwater, you're fighting a losing battle trying to pump it out. Is it just mud? Won't that block a pump in minutes?
Surely the best solution would be to infill it so it's higher than the ground water level? I take it you're sure it's not just a soak away from a gutter filling it? ____________________ TZR250 2MA road, TZR250 1KT road, TZR250 2MA race, TDR250, YZF-750R Boost colours.
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ThunderGuts |
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ThunderGuts World Chat Champion
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Posted: 13:31 - 30 Sep 2019 Post subject: |
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Riejufixing wrote: | ThunderGuts wrote: | There's no DPC as such as it's an old house; the joists sit on slates as a nod towards a DPC. |
That *is* a DPC, and unless it's deteriorated badly or been damaged, a good one. EDIT: You say "the joists sit on slates". I assume that's where they sit on the sleeper walls. If your house is '20s I would be very, very surprised were there no damp course in the wall. Outside, look for an extra-thick joint. Inside, look for the same, or even slate edges protuding from the joints.
ThunderGuts wrote: | I have thought about infill, but the volume is huge; floor area is approximately 70 sqm, so it'd require 35 cubic metres of fill. Plus it'd then mean access to the floor void would be virtually nill, a pain for any electrical or central heating work as pipes and cables are routed under there. |
Why would you need 35 cu m? Surely the water doesn't lap the bottom of the joists? You only need enough infill to raise the level above the water, and if you only have part of the ground under water, it might not even be over the full area. |
I'll look more closely; the joists sit on slates on the sleeper and perimeter walls as you've said, I'm not sure I've seen an obvious DPC anywhere but I'll look more closely.
In terms of fill, so I was working on the basis that when the water is at the highest I've seen it, it's an average depth of around 200mm across 90% of the floor area (maybe slightly more) - so I was adding a bit of extra to account for extremes of water level. You're probably right, I'm probably over-egging it a bit but it's still a decent volume.
With regards to it having always been that way, perhaps - but the timber floor is 20% moisture content which is way too high and every timber floor has been replaced barring the back reception room (which is visibly older than the other rooms). I suspect this is due to previous timber deterioration as a result of damp. Plus, the ambient moisture levels in the downstairs rooms are so high as a result it's causing mould growth in some places! ____________________ TG. |
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Riejufixing World Chat Champion
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Sister Sledge |
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Sister Sledge World Chat Champion
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ThunderGuts |
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ThunderGuts World Chat Champion
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Posted: 16:42 - 30 Sep 2019 Post subject: |
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Riejufixing wrote: |
The problem with just draining the wet is that the soil will stay damp anyway, and also if you lower the water table very appreciably you may find other problems (e.g. soil shrinkage).
It might be worth looking at the underfloor and ventilation generally. Has a conservatory (or something) been added, reducing ventilation by removing/blocking air bricks? Are sleeper or internal walls blocking ventilation? There should be a through-flow of air. Is there adequate ventilation above the floor (or a source of humitity contributing to the damp, mould above floor suggests a problem)? Have you enough airbricks? I'd say there should be about 5 "ordinary" 9x3 airbricks on an 8m wall. Plastic airbricks provide more ventilation per "brick" |
I want to put more airbricks in regardless. I was actually contemplating if I can get the water level below the surface, not much more though, I can probably be in a position where I'm not adversely affecting the foundations. I was then thinking of laying thick plastic sheeting over the earth with a slight upturn on the edges (maybe 100mm), but with a drain point above the sump should any water somehow get on top of it. My thinking is this would massively reduce the "wet surface area" and therefore evaporation into the air under the house, with the added benefit that crawl access would be more pleasant too! I can't see any obvious issues with doing this.
Sister Sledge wrote: |
This ^^
Something has changed. Yes they're known for it as you say earlier on but now it's too much - there has to be a reason.
Firstly check for a leak on a pipe. Then check for broken drains. I know someone who'd broken a hot water pipe and it had been leaking under the floor for a year. It had caused massive problems aside from higher bills!
You mentioned concreted ground outside. What else was done? Were drains moved or re-done? Perhaps not correctly or perhaps in a way which means ground water has to run a different route and that route is through the floor void.
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There is a kitchen extension (solid floor) that has blocked, I suspect, a few airbricks (roughly 40% of the rear wall of the house) - but the extension was built in the 1930s so I wouldn't classify that as a change as such given it's such long term. There are still airbricks in the corner of that underfloor void anyway, although not enough I'd say.
Drains are, as far as I can tell, are unchanged. Water has been tested - nil for chlorine, sewerage etc. so pretty sure it's not coming out of a pipe (combined sewers so I'd expect to see something if they're leaking, even if the water bulk is caused by rainwater).
Incidentally, as I mentioned there is a widespread issue locally which strongly points towards groundwater - there are (natural) ponds not far away and houses nearby that have cellars have all had to install sump pumps to arrest water ingress. The water I get is (seemingly) perfectly pure - completely clear and odourless. ____________________ TG. |
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- Super Spammer
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Posted: 09:35 - 01 Oct 2019 Post subject: |
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I'd be tempted to find out if this is really just the water table, or a blocked or old soak away from a gutter causing this.
Could you not dig a small hole somewhere on the outside, away from gutter drains, to measure the water table depth outside the house, using the damp course as a guide?
See if the depth is relevant to the depth inside, after heavy rain.
I just get the feeling that if the void has always been an indoor lake, there would be a lot more signs of historic damp in the house. ____________________ TZR250 2MA road, TZR250 1KT road, TZR250 2MA race, TDR250, YZF-750R Boost colours.
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Diggs World Chat Champion
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Posted: 12:28 - 01 Oct 2019 Post subject: |
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You are on clay. It has a capacity to hold water, and its volume is dependent to a degree on the level of saturation. Take the water out of it completely and it will shrink, potentially causing you structural problems.
Looking at the photo it is clear that you do have an issue that needs resolving though. If it is something that has worsened recently it will either be that surrounding ground has reached saturation point and can't drain quickly enough after heavy rain, or you have a leak. You can find and fix a leak. If it isn't that, you need a sump pump as you suggested.
Assuming your surface water goes to a drain, I'd suggest you pump it to this via a length of hosepipe in the first instance to see if it resolves the problem. If it does, only then look for a permanent solution.
Note that if you connect to a public sewer (i.e. after your drain has connected to something else), you may need Building Regs and consent from the Statutory Undertaker. Far simpler to connect to the drain.... ____________________ Now - Speed Triple, old ratty GS550, GSXR750M
Gone (in order of ownership) - Raleigh Runabout, AP50, KH125, GP125, KH250, CBX550, Z400, CB750FII, 250LC, GS550, ZXR750H1, Guzzi Targa, GSX750F, KH250 x2, Bimota SB6R and counting... |
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ThunderGuts World Chat Champion
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Posted: 12:43 - 01 Oct 2019 Post subject: |
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Diggs wrote: | You are on clay. It has a capacity to hold water, and its volume is dependent to a degree on the level of saturation. Take the water out of it completely and it will shrink, potentially causing you structural problems.
Looking at the photo it is clear that you do have an issue that needs resolving though. If it is something that has worsened recently it will either be that surrounding ground has reached saturation point and can't drain quickly enough after heavy rain, or you have a leak. You can find and fix a leak. If it isn't that, you need a sump pump as you suggested.
Assuming your surface water goes to a drain, I'd suggest you pump it to this via a length of hosepipe in the first instance to see if it resolves the problem. If it does, only then look for a permanent solution.
Note that if you connect to a public sewer (i.e. after your drain has connected to something else), you may need Building Regs and consent from the Statutory Undertaker. Far simpler to connect to the drain.... |
Yep, precisely why any drainage would only be to take water off the surface of the clay, not to completely dewater the substrate.
I have previously pumped it to gain access to the underfloor area; it took a lot to get it out (massive volume) but once out, it stayed pretty dry for several days before slowly creeping back up again, albeit to a lower level than previously - this to me points (again) towards groundwater. It clearly can get away, so if it's groundwater the same pathway could introduce water too.
Drain dye will be interesting to see if anything shows, but I suspect not. ____________________ TG. |
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Diggs World Chat Champion
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Posted: 13:07 - 01 Oct 2019 Post subject: |
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Think about the weather also. If the ground outside the house has reached saturation point because of a period of heavy rain then this is likely to contribute to the problem. The water in the void has nowhere to soak away to...
This is a common problem where I live and I have a pump under the floor for the same reason. ____________________ Now - Speed Triple, old ratty GS550, GSXR750M
Gone (in order of ownership) - Raleigh Runabout, AP50, KH125, GP125, KH250, CBX550, Z400, CB750FII, 250LC, GS550, ZXR750H1, Guzzi Targa, GSX750F, KH250 x2, Bimota SB6R and counting... |
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ThunderGuts World Chat Champion
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 4 years, 201 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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