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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :
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Posted: 11:02 - 22 Oct 2019 Post subject: |
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WD Forte wrote: | Well that's a bit disappointing... |
I'll try and remember to have the the old chap hanging out next time, then you'll know disappointment!
Moving on, I've been grabbing up bits and buffing them up. The clutch and brake levers came up nice. Annoying that the lever handlebar mounts are a little chipped: just enough for OCD to kick in but not so bad I can face stripping and repainting such awkward shapes
This piece of sh*t turned up yesterday:
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/jIQAAOSweRpdeiWC/s-l1600.jpg
£15. You can almost taste the quality through your monitor, can't you But as the original seat pan is going to need... some work I thought a little experiment into temporary replacement. I'm going to set aside the original seat pan and fuel tank as long term projects and I already have a good stand-in fuel tank.
This "replacement seat" if we can give it that much credit is about as long as these things get at 53cm whereas the original is ~60cm but also it sweeps up and has a hint of a pear drop shape, top down, so all in all a vague nod to the original.
From what I've seen second hand seat pans go for >£80 and so far I haven't seen anything in any better state than I have. Reproductions are thin on the ground with one guy in the US who might have something in 6 months or so and then a company in Vietnam. The latter seems well overpriced for the quality
Wheels next, I think ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :
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Posted: 19:24 - 23 Oct 2019 Post subject: |
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Life just got just a little bit easier:
https://i.imgur.com/rki2Jwi.jpg?1
Worth it for the wiring diagram alone ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :
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Posted: 21:00 - 23 Oct 2019 Post subject: |
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Ha! I was right about the wiring diagram. The reproduction switch was wired like this:
Code: | Bullet Sockets
_______
/ \
| 3 2 1 |
| 6 5 4 |
---------
1 = Blue / Red
2 = Red
3 = Brown
4 = NC
5 = Black
6 = Black/White
_____
/ \
| 2 1 |
| 4 3 |
-------
1 = White
2 = Yellow
3 = Red / Yellow
4 = Yellow / White |
Roughly the right functions but all in different spots With the wiring loom out and a proper wiring diagram to understand it I re-pinned it thus:
Code: | Bullet Sockets
_______
/ \
| 3 2 1 |
| 6 5 4 |
---------
1 = Yellow
2 = White
3 = Yellow/White
4 = Brown
5 = Red
6 = NC
_____
/ \
| 2 1 |
| 4 3 |
-------
1 = Black/White
2 = Red/Yellow (Blue on loom)
3 = Black
4 = Blue/Red |
____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :
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Posted: 21:32 - 23 Oct 2019 Post subject: |
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Oh, and for anyone who doesn't like wiring diagrams here's a breakdown of the loom and all its functions I made last night:
Code: | Yamaha DT 175 (1G1) Wiring Loom
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Key: B = bullet plug, S = bullet socket, DS = dual bullet socket, MS = multi bullet socket
Blm = Blade connector (male) Blf = Black connector (female) F = barrel fuse, St = strap or ring
Brake Switch (back)
===================
B - Green/Yellow
S - Brown
Rear Lights
===========
S - Blue = Tail Light
S - Yellow = Brake Light
S - Dark Brown = Left Signal
S - Dark Green = Right Signal
MS - Black = Frame Ground
Regulator
=========
S - Yellow/White
Engine Connector
================
_______
/ \
| 1 2 3 |
| 4 5 6 |
---------
1 - White = Magneto Tap 1 (charging)
2 - NC
3 - Sky Blue = Neutral (switches to ground)
4 - Yellow = Magneto Tap 2 (charging & lighting)
5 - Black/White = Magneto Tap 3 (ignition coil)
6 - NC
Battery +ve
===========
F - Red
Flasher Relay
=============
B - Brown/White = output
S - Brown = +ve
S - Black = -ve
Main Switch
===========
_______
/ \
| 1 2 3 |
| 4 5 6 |
---------
1 - Yellow = input, Magneto Tap 2
2 - White = input, Magneto Tap 1
3 - Yellow/White = output, Regulator from pin 2 Tap 1 position P1, pin 1 Tap 2 position P2
4 - Brown = output, Switched Power from pin 5 battery +ve in positions P1/P2
5 - Red = input, battery +ve
6 - Yellow = input, Magneto Tap 2 (duplicate of pin 1)
Main Switch (secondary)
=======================
_____
/ \
| 1 2 |
| 3 4 |
-------
1 - Black/White = output, ground ignition system in positions Off/P3
2 - Blue = output, Lighting, from primary connector pin 1 Tap 2 in position P2
3 - Black = Frame Ground
4 - Blue/Red = output, Parking Light, from primary connector pin 5 battery +ve in positions P2/P3
Left Handlebar Switch
=====================
_____
/ \
| 2 1 |
| 4 3 |
-------
1 - Dark Brown = Left Signal
2 - Dark Green = Right Signal
3 - Brown/White = flasher output
4 - Brown = switched power
Coil
====
S - Black/White (doubled wire)
Frame Ground
============
St - Black (doubled wire)
Rectifier
=========
Blm - Red = rectified output to battery +ve
Blf - White = unregulated input from Magneto Tap 1
Headlamp assembly
=================
B - Light Blue = Neutral Light (negative switching)
DS - Blue/Red = Parking Light
MS - Blue = Lighting (inc. clock backlights)
DS - Dark Brown = Left Signal
DS - Dark Green = Right Signal
MS - Black = Frame Ground
S - Black/White = Kill Switch
S - Green/Yellow = Brake Switch
MS - Brown = Switched Power (horn, neutral light) |
<edit> Headlamp indicator sockets changed to doubles ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter
Last edited by Easy-X on 18:50 - 18 Jan 2020; edited 1 time in total |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :
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Posted: 21:38 - 24 Oct 2019 Post subject: |
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Time to get the wheels sorted, front one first:
https://i.imgur.com/OBnMqKB.jpg?1
Spoke pattern for reference, drum/nearside:
https://i.imgur.com/1nvLc3G.jpg?1
Offside:
https://i.imgur.com/KpomGK8.jpg?2
BTW, the tyre was a pain to get off but mainly because the age of the rubber. Hope I'm as stiff when I get old The valve nut was barely any more than finger tight. The rim lock was rusted to hell and I, errr... accidentally sheared off the bolt
The rim is rather rusty - inside - but the rust is mostly from the nipples. Gave 'em a spray of WD40 and left 'em a bit. I chopped all the spokes that wouldn't budge:
https://i.imgur.com/G1aJFa7.jpg?1
Okay, let's see what we have intact:
https://i.imgur.com/lDP0Xhu.jpg?1
At least one inner and one outer from both sides, perfect!
For reference there's no difference between nearside and offside but the outers are right angled ended and the inners are something like 110 degrees. Both single gauge:
https://i.imgur.com/XA712my.jpg?1
Once I've stripped down the back wheel I'll send them all off to get bespoke spokes and I'll update this thread with the exact specifications.
Probably I could have ridden around on this wheel, the rust on the spokes is thick but there's stacks of metal left. However, impossible to torque up as most of the nipples were rusted beyond recovery
Rim and hub look to be in great condition. Should clean up nicely ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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garth |
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garth World Chat Champion
Joined: 15 Dec 2004 Karma :
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :
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Posted: 23:04 - 25 Oct 2019 Post subject: |
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Did the back wheel tonight, spoke pattern for reference:
https://i.imgur.com/V5cyZKl.jpg?2
Different problems getting off the tyre - it's a smaller diameter (18" vs 21" on the front) but wider. Fecking bead of the tyre just wouldn't come off the rim! Moar swaring rekqwired Anyhoo that's my top tip: get the bead of both sides into the "valley" with the spoke nipples or you ain't gonna get squat done. After that it wasn't too bad. The rear is further perished compared than the front so it's gone through the "rubber turned to stone" phase and come out the other side Talking of other sides:
https://i.imgur.com/bNnXE2N.jpg?2
It was at this point the penny dropped that it would be easier to take the sprocket off before I attack the spokes
https://i.imgur.com/JTy4LFz.jpg?1
Here are some salvaged spokes. Two sizes this time but the angles seem more like 80 vs 120 degrees, inside and out:
https://i.imgur.com/NC4Xksq.jpg?1
Bagged, labelled and ready to go with their front wheel brothers to be cloned
Disassembly left for this weekend: suspension & swing arm, remove engine from frame. ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
Joined: 08 Mar 2019 Karma :
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Posted: 18:33 - 26 Oct 2019 Post subject: |
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Had a little play about with cleaning up the wheels, after degreasing the rear rim looked like this:
https://i.imgur.com/pOsaiSm.jpg?1
BTW I saw some fellas on YouTube using that funny foam cleaner for degreasing. Didn't do shit for me! Stick to petrol
Bit of a buff up by hand:
https://i.imgur.com/lHAJQwU.jpg?1
Great! The rear rim looked a lot worse than the front so this test gives me hope Got some polishing disks on order 'cos it'd take bleedin' ages to do by hand!
Had a little go at one of the hubs:
https://i.imgur.com/Btlvgdf.jpg?1
Just wanted to see if they'd been painted - hard to tell with the layer of grease and dirt - but no, just metal but it'll take more than a little hand polishing to get these looking nice. ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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Sister Sledge |
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Sister Sledge World Chat Champion
Joined: 17 Aug 2018 Karma :
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Posted: 03:27 - 28 Oct 2019 Post subject: |
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Sister Sledge wrote: | Could be a clear lacquer on the hub - I would start with de-greaser and then use paint stripper anyway.
With the rims - remember they'll be made of rolled plate and could have a hidden chamber/channel at the rims edge. If that's corroded internally it will weaken the rim dramatically. Tef does lectures about it. |
I'll dab a little acetone on it as a test...
The rims seem really solid. Either they're just solid metal or they've been folded and welded shut. I shall look again now you've mentioned it.
In other news I've copied the entire parts list into a spreadsheet (from Stinkwheel's prompting, thanx) and filled in all the generic stuff, e.g M8 40mm Hex Head, etc. Seems 80% of this bike is held together with M6 pan head bolts of various lengths
And I found this site:
https://sumorubber.com/dt-models/1973-02-Yamaha-DT125-DT175/
Which seems to have almost all the bike-specific grommets.
So, wheel rebuild is underway, I have stand-ins for both the seat and tank and now a list for all the rusted fixings and perished grommets. And I have a super-secret plan for the missing exhaust heat-shield... shhhh! I'll tell you about it once the parts turn up ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Posted: 17:19 - 31 Oct 2019 Post subject: |
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Woohoo! Spokes are being made I've gone for stainless steel with nickel-plated brass nipples - they should turn up Mon/Tues.
I suppose I should think about getting some tyres! ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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WD Forte |
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WD Forte World Chat Champion
Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Karma :
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redeem ouzzer |
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redeem ouzzer World Chat Champion
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Ste |
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Ste Not Work Safe
Joined: 01 Sep 2002 Karma :
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Posted: 17:11 - 01 Nov 2019 Post subject: |
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If you're doing standard spoke lacing them you can lace them up yourself and then pay someone who knows what they're doing to tension them all up correctly.
But, what you should really be doing is getting someone to do a snowflake pattern with the spoke lacing. It might be a stupid thing to do with motorcycle wheels so let us know how it goes.
edit: don't snowflake them
Last edited by Ste on 18:59 - 04 Nov 2019; edited 1 time in total |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Posted: 16:21 - 03 Nov 2019 Post subject: |
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Today I have been mostly polishing...
Bear in mind this is just a test run to see how well various techniques work. I started with this:
https://i.imgur.com/glApSZK.jpg?1
Ugh! The rear hub looks awful Obviously I started by degreasing with some petrol and then had at it with some Scotch Brite:
https://i.imgur.com/lWh7hIg.jpg?1
And finally some polishing:
https://i.imgur.com/thzXtcs.jpg?1
Not bad for a first attempt. That'll do for now; I might take a different approach with the front one and then come back to this one. Also weighing up whether to leave the gouges in or get the Dremel out - the largest one is pretty deep.
One slight problem with the rear brake. Here's the camshaft:
https://i.imgur.com/xD77K3V.jpg?1
...and from above:
https://i.imgur.com/J5u9w82.jpg?1
And no, they're not meant to have a twist in them like that! This is one of those annoying parts that cost feck all in the USA but I can only find NOS in Europe
Regarding wheel building. I'll start humming the Dr.Pepper theme tune now shall I? Won't know until you try... ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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dekip Borekit Bruiser
Joined: 27 Jul 2019 Karma :
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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Posted: 23:24 - 03 Nov 2019 Post subject: |
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Yup, Scotch Brite FTW Plus some Autosol!
To speed things up you could use a Dremel, drill or angle grinder with some polishing disks. I don't mind too much if it's a one time thing. Just spent the last few hours polishing my rims:
https://i.imgur.com/4t0qkGO.jpg?1
The front came out almost as new. The rear not so much - this is the worst area:
https://i.imgur.com/CR50m3W.jpg?1
Tantalisingly not so bad I'd want to paint them especially as the front is fine. If anyone has any suggestions beyond rechroming them I'm all ears ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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Sister Sledge World Chat Champion
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Robby Dirty Old Man
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WD Forte World Chat Champion
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Easy-X |
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Easy-X Super Spammer
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Posted: 17:20 - 04 Nov 2019 Post subject: |
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I've got a truing stand with sticks for the lefty-righty and uppy-downy bits (I forget the technical terms right now.)
One advantage of motorcycle rims over bicycle rims is at least it'd take some effort to knacker them. Alloy bicycle rims are like tissue paper in comparison
AFAIK the "trick" is to get the spokes all about the same and then go through the cycle of tighten/loosen, tighten/loosen and not go too nuts. E.g. going out left? Loosen all the left side spokes near the apex of the deviation loosening less and less as you move further out and then do the opposite - tighten - on the right hand side. Once it's spinning true tighten all the spokes up and then repeat the process as many times as necessary and with each iteration you should be altering the spoke tension less and less. Well, that's the way I do it with bicycle wheels anyway. ____________________ Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter |
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Sister Sledge |
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Sister Sledge World Chat Champion
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stinkwheel |
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stinkwheel Bovine Proctologist
Joined: 12 Jul 2004 Karma :
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Posted: 17:54 - 04 Nov 2019 Post subject: |
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Motorcycle wheels are much more about tension than bicycle ones are but if you're used to lacing bicycle wheels, you understand the principals anyway.
Ping the spokes a lot to check they are similar tension. The rims don't go off-centre anywhere near as much anyway.
Dish is critical (not because the wheel being off centre is a big problem but the dish being out indicates the tension is wrong on a whole side).
Do not snowflake them. ____________________ “Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles. |
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Old Thread Alert!
The last post was made 4 years, 175 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful? |
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