Dealing with the DT

[Easy-X]

[Easy-X]

Life just got just a little bit easier:

https://i.imgur.com/rki2Jwi.jpg?1

Worth it for the wiring diagram alone
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

Ha! I was right about the wiring diagram. The reproduction switch was wired like this:

[Easy-X]

Oh, and for anyone who doesn't like wiring diagrams here's a breakdown of the loom and all its functions I made last night:

[Easy-X]

Time to get the wheels sorted, front one first:

https://i.imgur.com/OBnMqKB.jpg?1

Spoke pattern for reference, drum/nearside:

https://i.imgur.com/1nvLc3G.jpg?1

Offside:

https://i.imgur.com/KpomGK8.jpg?2

BTW, the tyre was a pain to get off but mainly because the age of the rubber. Hope I'm as stiff when I get old The valve nut was barely any more than finger tight. The rim lock was rusted to hell and I, errr... accidentally sheared off the bolt

The rim is rather rusty - inside - but the rust is mostly from the nipples. Gave 'em a spray of WD40 and left 'em a bit. I chopped all the spokes that wouldn't budge:

https://i.imgur.com/G1aJFa7.jpg?1

Okay, let's see what we have intact:

https://i.imgur.com/lDP0Xhu.jpg?1

At least one inner and one outer from both sides, perfect!

For reference there's no difference between nearside and offside but the outers are right angled ended and the inners are something like 110 degrees. Both single gauge:

https://i.imgur.com/XA712my.jpg?1

Once I've stripped down the back wheel I'll send them all off to get bespoke spokes and I'll update this thread with the exact specifications.

Probably I could have ridden around on this wheel, the rust on the spokes is thick but there's stacks of metal left. However, impossible to torque up as most of the nipples were rusted beyond recovery

Rim and hub look to be in great condition. Should clean up nicely
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[garth]

Bit late now, but you could have changed one spoke at a time.
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You ain't a has been if you never was

[Easy-X]

[Easy-X]

Did the back wheel tonight, spoke pattern for reference:

https://i.imgur.com/V5cyZKl.jpg?2

Different problems getting off the tyre - it's a smaller diameter (18" vs 21" on the front) but wider. Fecking bead of the tyre just wouldn't come off the rim! Moar swaring rekqwired Anyhoo that's my top tip: get the bead of both sides into the "valley" with the spoke nipples or you ain't gonna get squat done. After that it wasn't too bad. The rear is further perished compared than the front so it's gone through the "rubber turned to stone" phase and come out the other side Talking of other sides:

https://i.imgur.com/bNnXE2N.jpg?2

It was at this point the penny dropped that it would be easier to take the sprocket off before I attack the spokes

https://i.imgur.com/JTy4LFz.jpg?1

Here are some salvaged spokes. Two sizes this time but the angles seem more like 80 vs 120 degrees, inside and out:

https://i.imgur.com/NC4Xksq.jpg?1

Bagged, labelled and ready to go with their front wheel brothers to be cloned

Disassembly left for this weekend: suspension & swing arm, remove engine from frame.
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Easy-X]

Had a little play about with cleaning up the wheels, after degreasing the rear rim looked like this:

https://i.imgur.com/pOsaiSm.jpg?1

BTW I saw some fellas on YouTube using that funny foam cleaner for degreasing. Didn't do shit for me! Stick to petrol

Bit of a buff up by hand:

https://i.imgur.com/lHAJQwU.jpg?1

Great! The rear rim looked a lot worse than the front so this test gives me hope Got some polishing disks on order 'cos it'd take bleedin' ages to do by hand!

Had a little go at one of the hubs:

https://i.imgur.com/Btlvgdf.jpg?1

Just wanted to see if they'd been painted - hard to tell with the layer of grease and dirt - but no, just metal but it'll take more than a little hand polishing to get these looking nice.
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Sister Sledge]

Could be a clear lacquer on the hub - I would start with de-greaser and then use paint stripper anyway.

With the rims - remember they'll be made of rolled plate and could have a hidden chamber/channel at the rims edge. If that's corroded internally it will weaken the rim dramatically. Tef does lectures about it.
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CCM 404 DS

[Easy-X]

[Easy-X]

Woohoo! Spokes are being made I've gone for stainless steel with nickel-plated brass nipples - they should turn up Mon/Tues.

I suppose I should think about getting some tyres!
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[WD Forte]

I've never built a spoked wheel but always assumed it was best done by a responsible adult with jigs and similar devices.
howya going to do it?
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bikers smell of wee

[redeem ouzzer]

[Ste]

If you're doing standard spoke lacing them you can lace them up yourself and then pay someone who knows what they're doing to tension them all up correctly.

But, what you should really be doing is getting someone to do a snowflake pattern with the spoke lacing. It might be a stupid thing to do with motorcycle wheels so let us know how it goes.

edit: don't snowflake them

[Easy-X]

Today I have been mostly polishing...

Bear in mind this is just a test run to see how well various techniques work. I started with this:

https://i.imgur.com/glApSZK.jpg?1

Ugh! The rear hub looks awful Obviously I started by degreasing with some petrol and then had at it with some Scotch Brite:

https://i.imgur.com/lWh7hIg.jpg?1

And finally some polishing:

https://i.imgur.com/thzXtcs.jpg?1

Not bad for a first attempt. That'll do for now; I might take a different approach with the front one and then come back to this one. Also weighing up whether to leave the gouges in or get the Dremel out - the largest one is pretty deep.

One slight problem with the rear brake. Here's the camshaft:

https://i.imgur.com/xD77K3V.jpg?1

...and from above:

https://i.imgur.com/J5u9w82.jpg?1

And no, they're not meant to have a twist in them like that! This is one of those annoying parts that cost feck all in the USA but I can only find NOS in Europe

Regarding wheel building. I'll start humming the Dr.Pepper theme tune now shall I? Won't know until you try...
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[dekip]

How you clean/polish these parts? I used 3M scotch brite for the same parts. It did a nice job, but it was a hard work, also.
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Long time reviewer in computer magazine.
That include all wireless devices, SBC and microcontrollers. When my brain get stuck, all that helps is ride.
My bikes: MZ 175SE (1967), Yamaha Virago XV535 (1993) and TVS Apache (2008)

[Easy-X]

Yup, Scotch Brite FTW Plus some Autosol!

To speed things up you could use a Dremel, drill or angle grinder with some polishing disks. I don't mind too much if it's a one time thing. Just spent the last few hours polishing my rims:

https://i.imgur.com/4t0qkGO.jpg?1

The front came out almost as new. The rear not so much - this is the worst area:

https://i.imgur.com/CR50m3W.jpg?1

Tantalisingly not so bad I'd want to paint them especially as the front is fine. If anyone has any suggestions beyond rechroming them I'm all ears
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Sister Sledge]

On I think the second image with the hub - those strange lines at regular intervals? That's crazing/fracture lines within the clear lacquer coating - you know - clear paint. You could have saved a lot of effort by applying paint stripper..

The cam is broken anyway - look at the splined shaft. It's actually sheared almost all the way through at the point where the splines stop lining up and then angle. It's lethal and needs binning.
I seem to remember brake shoe cams being very swappable among Yamaha machines back in the day - look beyond DT brake cams. Find a part number, cross reference and I bet you find a cheapo used one on the bay of evil.
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CCM 404 DS

[Easy-X]

Yes, I was thinking of you while I was buffing it (eeek!) But I had some time to kill and the lacquer remnants came off easy.

I did wonder about the brake camshaft. I think I saw a YBR125 one that looked identical. Yambits also have something similar for a Fizzy but at least they're kind enough to specify the diameter. I'll have a measure up when I finish work.
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Robby]

Building a wheel isn't all that difficult, just time consuming. You'll need a dial gauge, spirit level, and a vice.

Loosely assemble the wheel. An electric screwdriver helps speed this bit up.
Clamp the spindle upright in the vice, put the wheel on it, tighten the spokes some more.
Use the dial gauge to measure, tighten as you go. Specs are in the workshop manual.

Getting it within spec is fairly simple. Getting it perfect is not simple. Know when to stop.

[WD Forte]

It aint rocket science
BUT
If I wanted to build a wheel, I'd probably spend more time building
the jigs and assemblies to ensure its setup right and true than the actual building itself.

This where a pro with all the kit scores over the the enthusiastic amateur
and Ste's suggestion of doing the initial assembly then letting a pro do the final setup makes sense.
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bikers smell of wee

[Easy-X]

I've got a truing stand with sticks for the lefty-righty and uppy-downy bits (I forget the technical terms right now.)

One advantage of motorcycle rims over bicycle rims is at least it'd take some effort to knacker them. Alloy bicycle rims are like tissue paper in comparison

AFAIK the "trick" is to get the spokes all about the same and then go through the cycle of tighten/loosen, tighten/loosen and not go too nuts. E.g. going out left? Loosen all the left side spokes near the apex of the deviation loosening less and less as you move further out and then do the opposite - tighten - on the right hand side. Once it's spinning true tighten all the spokes up and then repeat the process as many times as necessary and with each iteration you should be altering the spoke tension less and less. Well, that's the way I do it with bicycle wheels anyway.
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Husqvarna Vitpilen 401, Yamaha XSR700, Honda Rebel, Yamaha DT175, Suzuki SV650 (loan) Fazer 600, Keeway Superlight 125, 50cc turd scooter

[Sister Sledge]

Polishing your rocket and thinking of me eh?

I've never rebuilt a wheel as such though I have replaced snapped spokes. Used to be an old fell in the next village who's 'hobby' was rebuilding motorcycle wheels - local shops would send their work to him so it was easier to deal directly.
Be interesting your rebuild - especially seeing as you've done bicycle ones.
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CCM 404 DS

[stinkwheel]

Motorcycle wheels are much more about tension than bicycle ones are but if you're used to lacing bicycle wheels, you understand the principals anyway.

Ping the spokes a lot to check they are similar tension. The rims don't go off-centre anywhere near as much anyway.

Dish is critical (not because the wheel being off centre is a big problem but the dish being out indicates the tension is wrong on a whole side).

Do not snowflake them.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.