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Resurection of 1967 MZ 175SE

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 Topic moved: from The Workshop to Show & Tell by stinkwheel (7 Oct 2019 - 20:38)
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Sister Sledge
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PostPosted: 22:11 - 26 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The engine is beautifully made inside!

Could the end of the spring be softened, bent and then made springy again or would it become too tight to wrap around the shaft?
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dekip
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PostPosted: 08:33 - 27 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's what i am up to do. Friend has a autogenous welding bottles. We did the same thing for some other springs in past. I think it gonna be just fine.
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That include all wireless devices, SBC and microcontrollers. When my brain get stuck, all that helps is ride.
My bikes: MZ 175SE (1967), Yamaha Virago XV535 (1993) and TVS Apache (2008)
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 13:12 - 27 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most bikes of that type I've seen have a level screw for the gearbox oil. You take the screw out then with the bike level, fill until oil starts to ooze out of the level screw hole.

My Jawa 350 used to take EP90 gearbox oil although I started using a multigrade EP 80w-90, mainly because it was easier to find. Might be more appropriate where you are too with the huge variation in summer and winter temperatures. While I'm not sure what an MZ is supposed to have, I suspect the actual oil grade isn't all that much of an issue providing it's designed for being in a transmission. Check the oil grade isn't cast into the outside of the crankcase cover.

Broken kickstart return spring is a common problem. I often used to see MZs with the kickstart held up with a bungee.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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dekip
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PostPosted: 19:24 - 27 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The spring is ...

https://i.imgur.com/5omLitf.jpg?1

...fixed,

https://i.imgur.com/6YHjaju.jpg?1

and on its place.

https://i.imgur.com/0fSSUWl.jpg?1

The engine itself is so much full of dirt, old oil, and who knows what else. Especially at the bottom and inside chain sprocket housing. I lost entire afternoon cleaning it and didn't get 20% of the job.

https://i.imgur.com/VQxx1Yz.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/TuXbLLV.jpg?1

Still, things are moving. It gonna be a nice looking bike once i finished it. Although i don't have much time to ride them all. I use TVS for everyday use, going to job, to a local store. Yamaha is for a factory reset. And this one... it gonna be for hard reset, i think. Smile
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Long time reviewer in computer magazine.
That include all wireless devices, SBC and microcontrollers. When my brain get stuck, all that helps is ride.
My bikes: MZ 175SE (1967), Yamaha Virago XV535 (1993) and TVS Apache (2008)
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 10:08 - 28 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes that spring end goes into the hole. You could easily get a cheap replacement from MZ-B.


Oil: GL3 or Gl4 80/90. Do not use GL5.

You can also use SAE40 motor oil, as mentioned in the manual I linked to you first Wink

Capacity: 750ml
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Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (bored to 295cc) - 38k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 49k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k.
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dekip
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PostPosted: 17:35 - 06 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Week 6, if i am right.

Cables...
I made a print of the schematics so i can easily change wire by wire. As i said, bunch of wires are in bad condition. Connectors especially.

https://i.imgur.com/McMFMVe.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/gHZe9eV.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/bcySxZn.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/8ArE0tD.jpg?1

A little close up.

https://i.imgur.com/9tQx9If.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/2s9YYF7.jpg?1

And finally right side cover is on its place. After 5 weeks or so...

Air filter was a food for some mice long ago. I couldn't find a new one as original. But, here in neighborhood there is a company that made air filters for almost everything. So they made a new one for me. Only outer diameter is slightly less then original one. Anyway, the height and inner diameter is only that counts. Air filter sits on its place.

https://i.imgur.com/1wRV7J4.jpg?2

https://i.imgur.com/lNokCRK.jpg?1

Spark plug i manged to find exactly the same. The code is F100. Its Super Bosna, from Bosnia. Once it was domestic factory, LOL.

https://i.imgur.com/kuGxVNt.jpg?1

It is going somehow. The weather here is going worse, rain, cold, wind...
My goal is to do as much of cabling as i can get, if i can make it all. To put whole bike together and to wait spring. Hopefully, to made it ride again.
____________________
Long time reviewer in computer magazine.
That include all wireless devices, SBC and microcontrollers. When my brain get stuck, all that helps is ride.
My bikes: MZ 175SE (1967), Yamaha Virago XV535 (1993) and TVS Apache (2008)
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dekip
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PostPosted: 16:53 - 10 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Meanwhile...

https://i.imgur.com/a5n0gcl.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/wpq0l5R.jpg?1

Cables, cables, cables...

https://i.imgur.com/IWGk0l4.jpg?1

It gonna be a nice looking bike. Just to see the difference.

https://i.imgur.com/K99jBN4.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/cxJCxtD.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/aPZxaiT.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/R2ytvvk.jpg?1

Things are moving. Right now, headlight housing and fuel tank are on its way to get painted. Again Max Mayer acrylic paint, RAL 1015.
____________________
Long time reviewer in computer magazine.
That include all wireless devices, SBC and microcontrollers. When my brain get stuck, all that helps is ride.
My bikes: MZ 175SE (1967), Yamaha Virago XV535 (1993) and TVS Apache (2008)
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dekip
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PostPosted: 00:23 - 08 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

After a few weeks i messed up with some electronics stuff, and cooooooold i am back to this old guy.

Fuel tank and headlight housing are painted and it turned out pretty good. Here are some fresh pics.


https://i.imgur.com/lRxjP7c.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/HREV9MV.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/ccPkEr0.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/vR0rEEs.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/ysXfJbQ.jpg?1

Switches are in good condition. There are a few marks from former crashes.

https://i.imgur.com/laJO2p4.jpg?1

In coming days i will try to do all wiring and put together a few more things. I don't heat my workshop so work is going to slow down.
____________________
Long time reviewer in computer magazine.
That include all wireless devices, SBC and microcontrollers. When my brain get stuck, all that helps is ride.
My bikes: MZ 175SE (1967), Yamaha Virago XV535 (1993) and TVS Apache (2008)
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dekip
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PostPosted: 19:18 - 08 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today's progress.

https://i.imgur.com/w1ydw2P.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/rPGaTel.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/Y5MHN7z.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/EkjnR16.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/W5gULH9.jpg?1

As you can see, all cabling is done. Handles are in its places. Fuel tank is back and now it looks like a nice bike. For me, when i put the tank on its place, i had to open my beer can. It was a nice feeling to see it nice and shine.
____________________
Long time reviewer in computer magazine.
That include all wireless devices, SBC and microcontrollers. When my brain get stuck, all that helps is ride.
My bikes: MZ 175SE (1967), Yamaha Virago XV535 (1993) and TVS Apache (2008)
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 00:18 - 09 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow... looked at the headlamp shell and thought "that's odd!" but makes perfect sense with the tank Smile

Starting to get that retro '60s futurist feel Very Happy
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 01:26 - 09 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

They remind me of a 70's Hoover vacuum cleaner.

We actually stuck enamel hoover badges on my mates ES250.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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dekip
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 11 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally...

https://i.imgur.com/2QlgHcB.jpg?1

I just check if they fit and they fit perfectly. Now, hand grips become a problem. I mean they are ok, but they are old and when i put those blinkers, they look as they are not from this bike. Actually, when i look a bike from a distance, there could be easily seen the difference between fresh painted and cleaned parts, and some parts that can not be made new as they are. Except to replace them. Such as some plastic and rubber. And those hand grips.

Long time 'till sunny days.
____________________
Long time reviewer in computer magazine.
That include all wireless devices, SBC and microcontrollers. When my brain get stuck, all that helps is ride.
My bikes: MZ 175SE (1967), Yamaha Virago XV535 (1993) and TVS Apache (2008)
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 11 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

We have products in the UK called "aerospace 303" and "armourall" which is a UV protectant spray for plastics (often used to stop caravans fading in the sun). I find this brings old plastic and rubber componants back to more of their original lusture and helps prevent further deterioration.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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dekip
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PostPosted: 20:38 - 13 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could it be that liquid for making tires look wet? It looks like one. If so, there are bunch of such liquids.
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Long time reviewer in computer magazine.
That include all wireless devices, SBC and microcontrollers. When my brain get stuck, all that helps is ride.
My bikes: MZ 175SE (1967), Yamaha Virago XV535 (1993) and TVS Apache (2008)
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 21:02 - 13 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

dekip wrote:
Could it be that liquid for making tires look wet? It looks like one. If so, there are bunch of such liquids.


Dunno. Probably not, I wouldn't want to put it on my tyres. It's a bit slippy when it goes on.

I use it to prevent my royalex (a vinyl composite) canoe suffering from UV damage. I put it in the black plastics and clock lenses of my VFR and it made them look like new.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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2wheelLover51
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PostPosted: 13:32 - 17 Dec 2019    Post subject: MZ Rebuild Reply with quote

Interesting rebuild, nice to see a bike with real mudguards!
Back in the '70s a neighbour Paul, had the ES250. I remember the extra long exhaust on it. At the time I had a BSA B33 500 which was also a good reliable bike, until someone nicked the battery.
Keep up the good work! It's nice to see you're actually refurbishing the parts instead of just replacing with new.
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dekip
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PostPosted: 17:00 - 17 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, it has long exhaust. I kicked my leg on it several times for all those years. I replace parts that i must. Everything other is gonna be clean, refurbish etc. Authentic as it can be.
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Long time reviewer in computer magazine.
That include all wireless devices, SBC and microcontrollers. When my brain get stuck, all that helps is ride.
My bikes: MZ 175SE (1967), Yamaha Virago XV535 (1993) and TVS Apache (2008)
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dekip
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 18:56 - 22 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

This winter there is no winter. At least here in Serbia.
So, MZ is more and more completed.

I had to make a new plastic screw caps. Original one is the same color as tank, but i had only white plastic, so i painted it until i find original one. I have only two of them, the other two were lost.

https://i.imgur.com/Us5jvPr.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/uiW1mOL.jpg?1

Now, the carburator...
I just clean it. Bottom part with gas level tank is clean. Do i have to check some other things?

https://i.imgur.com/LaZZ8Xq.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/4GSr2nG.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/JV7qRkk.jpg?1

These rubber pads can not be cleaned as i wanted, but its ok.

https://i.imgur.com/ad2If74.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/OlNDEzV.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/LKaKXof.jpg?1

Seat. It is pretty much bad under this red material. I will have to open it. It isn't soft, neither hard, just some crispy thing.

https://i.imgur.com/UR0zei8.jpg?1

And for last... THE problem

https://i.imgur.com/29KAduN.jpg?1

That lead end of a cable is cracked. I have to replace it somehow. Any idea? Do it needs to be lead or it can be some other material. Place where it needs to fit is some 2-3mm in diameter. And it needs to be tight.
____________________
Long time reviewer in computer magazine.
That include all wireless devices, SBC and microcontrollers. When my brain get stuck, all that helps is ride.
My bikes: MZ 175SE (1967), Yamaha Virago XV535 (1993) and TVS Apache (2008)
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 19:13 - 22 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would probably have blown the carb jets through with compressed air when I had it off. But if it was clean in the floatbowl, there may be minimal varnish in there.

You need a new nipple on your throttle cable. They are usually made of brass and solder on. You thread the nipple on the end (there are various types, I think yours might use one called a "pear nipple" but it could have a more conventional "barrel nipple". It's difficult to see the shape of the recess for all the grease) , Then you splay out the ends of the cable in the end of the nipple and flow solder in. There is a nack to it, takes some practice, try youtube for advice on how to do this. The ends clearly weren't splayed out last time the cable was made/repaired, which is why it failed.

https://www.britbikes.co.uk/ekmps/shops/c19647/images/medium-pear-nipple-for-no.-2-wire-various-controls-3866-p.jpg

I have very little success soldering nipples onto old, oily cables. I can also see the end of that one has been repaired before, there are signs of overheating on the cable. The problen is the solder will not stick to the dirty, oxidised steel. You'd need to use a very agressive acid flux like bakers fluid to stand a chance.

Best solution is to fit a new cable or fit a new inner if you want to keep the original grey outers. You could also try fitting a solderless nipple which screw onto the end of the cable. You'll get them at a bicycle shop. These pinch the cable and are more likely to fail than a soldered one. I'm not sure there is room for one on your throttle assembly though, the screw sticks out. Maybe you could replace the screw with a grub-screw and file it level once it's fitted.

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/images/products/medium/25955.jpg
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 11:48 - 23 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, the art to good soldering: clean surfaces and even heat. Ideally you want both things you want to solder together to be the same temperature which can be tricky for dissimilar materials like solid brass and steel braided cable. Usually that means applying head to one before the other but which one Thinking

Mark Twain wrote:
Good decisions come from experience. Experience comes from making bad decisions.


Also, not all "solder" is the same. Don't use the stuff you'd solder electrical circuits together as that'd be too soft - no lead in it, bismuth now, IIRC. Old skool Tin/Lead solder would be what you want.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 11:52 - 23 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Regarding the carb... erm, best of luck! If you haven't completely stripped it down, had at it with decent carb cleaner and then blasted air through it I think you might have problems, regardless of how clean the bowl was.

Maybe it's just me but I've not been lucky with carbs...
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stinkwheel
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PostPosted: 14:15 - 23 Dec 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a video of how the professionals do it. It's actually a video for an expensive tool they make for splaying the end of the cable out but that's not strictly necessary, you can use a small screwdriver to separate out the strands of wire at the very end so they fill the "cup" in the nipple.

https://youtu.be/g_273vfLLa8?t=60

They're using a liquid flux (in the mug) and a pot of molten solder then dipping it in a neutralising solution (probably bicarbonate of soda) after the solder has hardened to prevent the flux damaging the wire.

They make it look easy. It's usually harder than that. I think solder temperature will have a lot to do with it.

I think I'm going to make myself one of those "birdcage" tools because I seem to land up making quite a lot of cables. I'm going to steal this design. https://youtu.be/piYnF04pD6o
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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dekip
Borekit Bruiser



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PostPosted: 09:24 - 02 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you miss me? Smile

I wasn't doing much with the bike. But, this week I made some progress.

Seat.
https://i.imgur.com/Aato531.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/1rQeuYW.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/GVJoJlZ.jpg?1

As you can see, that foam is gone. The sponge is wasted. I will have to replace it, and that red cover material, too.

Tools under the seat.
https://i.imgur.com/zDmDwNP.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/S5ihJMV.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/gSdC6Lf.jpg?1

https://i.imgur.com/FHMmSwX.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/FUvePWu.jpg?1

As you can see, there are not much, You can also see the original tire repair kit from MZ. Besides, there is part of spring that I fixed a few months ago.
____________________
Long time reviewer in computer magazine.
That include all wireless devices, SBC and microcontrollers. When my brain get stuck, all that helps is ride.
My bikes: MZ 175SE (1967), Yamaha Virago XV535 (1993) and TVS Apache (2008)


Last edited by dekip on 19:08 - 02 Mar 2020; edited 1 time in total
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blurredman
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PostPosted: 10:16 - 02 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interestingly.. why would a broken piston ring be kept in the toolbox under the seat ? Laughing Laughing


Glad you're still at it..
____________________
CBT: 12/06/10, Theory: 22/09/10, Module 1: 09/11/10, Module 2: 19/01/11
Past: 1991 Honda CG125BR-J, 1992 (1980) Honda XL125S, 1996 Kawasaki GPZ500S.
Current: 1981 Honda CX500B - 91k, 1987 MZ ETZ250 (bored to 295cc) - 38k, 1989 MZ ETZ251 - 49k, 1979 Suzuki TS185ER - 9k, 1973 MZ ES250/2 - 17k.
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pepperami
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PostPosted: 10:40 - 02 Mar 2020    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are doing very well with this project Thumbs Up keep up the good work Thumbs Up
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