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Cursed Gamma?? No Spark

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gammadave
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 08 Oct 2019
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PostPosted: 13:52 - 08 Oct 2019    Post subject: Cursed Gamma?? No Spark Reply with quote

Hi All, im new but straight in with a belter for you to ponder,

i seem to have got myself into a bit of a pickle,

I am in the process of building a 1986 Rg125 Gamma, i am at the stage where the bike is built, on its wheels, engine in, new loom, all lights indicators etc working, But no spark! this is where i am upto,

2 ignition switches (1 nos)
5 ignition coils (3 nos)
3 CDI's
3 looms (1 nos)
3 Generator & pick up coils (1 nos)
3 new spark plugs & caps

When i kick it over there is no spark at the plug but when i remove the coil wire and go to put it back on, it sparks against the connection?? i really dont know what is going on, the frame is powdercoated but all earths have been ground to bare metal,

i know it can only be something ridiculous but finding it is getting expensive now, i have replaced everything! i think its going to be something so simple and rudimentary that i will probably be humiliated when it is pointed out,

i do have the original workshop manual & fully equipped toolbox,

Any and all help and advice is highly appreciated,

Thank you.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 14:40 - 08 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, instead of guessing and swapping parts, test.

Multimeter set to measure resistance and start checking continuity/resistances.

You have a manual so check the primary and secondary winding resistances on your coil.

Now attach it to the bike, plug it in and check the LT side again. Is the resistance the same or is something earthing it? (that's how most kill/ignition switches work on bikes of that era, by earthing the LT side of the coil).

Ok, how about continuity? Check all the things that should be earthed have good continuity to the battery negative. So the engine itself, the CDI, the frame.

Is there continuity between the HT lead and the end of the plug cap (there will be a resistance equal to the plug cap).

Idiot switches? Sidestand? Clutch switch? Neutral light working?
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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WD Forte
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 16:31 - 08 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, you could have bought a really good meter cheaper than all that
swap and hope stuff.

The lights probably work because they have a ground lead in the harness connected to battery neg.
Ignition might have but often relies on physical metal to metal contact
between case and frame
I'd check ground continuity between the battery neg terminal
and frame, coil mounts and engine case.

You could alway use flying leads between the engine case, coil mount and battery neg to test and see if there is a continuity problem
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gammadave
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 08 Oct 2019
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PostPosted: 19:45 - 08 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for your responses, Appreciated,

i should have added, 2 multimeters as i thought that my first one might be wrong, there is no sidestand switch, kill switch has been bypassed, all continuity seems fine, extra earths from frame to engine, engine to frame, engine to battery,
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RhynoCZ
Super Spammer



Joined: 09 Mar 2012
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PostPosted: 20:01 - 08 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is no such a thing as a cursed motorcycle, only incompetent mechanics. Well, the Vampire motorcycle was cursed, but the film was not a documentary, so I assume it was only a work of fiction. I still don't trust any of the Norton Commando bikes, though. Thinking

For those, who question my sanity: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I_Bought_a_Vampire_Motorcycle
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'87 Honda XBR 500, '96 Kawasaki ZX7R P1, '90 Honda CB-1, '88 Kawasaki GPz550, MZ 150 ETZ
'95 Mercedes-Benz w202 C200 CGI, '98 Mercedes-Benz w210 E200 Kompressor
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gammadave
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 08 Oct 2019
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PostPosted: 21:05 - 08 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

mpd72 wrote:
gammadave wrote:
Thanks for your responses, Appreciated,

i should have added, 2 multimeters as i thought that my first one might be wrong, there is no sidestand switch, kill switch has been bypassed, all continuity seems fine, extra earths from frame to engine, engine to frame, engine to battery,


When you say the kill switch has been bypassed?

How?

My TZR’s are closed circuit, I.e makes the circuit when in “off mode”.
It sends a pulse to the ECU telling it to turn off.


The kill switch has a black with red tracer wire from the generator and a black with white tracer earth, the wires have been removed from the switch, the wires are connected and disconnected as and when i am testing, purely to eliminate the possibility of a dodgy switch, i do have a spare left switch with kill/run switch intact to add at anytime,
i know it sounds odd, but every wire is accounted for and in its position, cleaned and tested, i pretty much know every wire in the loom off by heart, to be fair there isnt that much to it, the only wires around the coil area are coil wire, front brake wires, oil tank wires, temp gauge wire and an earth, the earth i have tried on the frame and on the coil mount,
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gammadave
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 08 Oct 2019
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PostPosted: 09:27 - 09 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

mpd72 wrote:
And if you leave the wires disconnected, then turn ignition in and try to get a spark?

On similar era 2 strokes, connecting the wires will actually turn off the ECU and therefore spark.


Fair point, i did try it with the switch still connected to the wires but was having the same problem, so i was advised to remove the switch an try it that way to eliminate the switch as a possible problem, i

To be perfectly honest i am now at the point where so much has been changed, swapped or fettled with i am best to start over, refit everything 1 part at a time and go from there, parts have been fitted since the switch was removed and if there is a possibility that not having a switch intact may be adding to the issue then i will refit the intact switchgear and see where i get, im working on it all day today so i will be back and to with updates if anything improves.

Thanks for the advice, genuinely appreciated
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



Joined: 12 Jul 2004
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PostPosted: 10:21 - 09 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are what 6 wires on the CDI? So it'll need 6 wires to run. I'd make up a jury rig loom to confirm all your componants are working.

Not familiar with your bike but I'd imagine those 6 wires are live, earth, to and from pulse coil, feed to ignition coil. Not sure about the 6th? Pulse to powervalve?
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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WD Forte
World Chat Champion



Joined: 17 Jun 2010
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PostPosted: 12:40 - 09 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

gammadave wrote:


To be perfectly honest. etc..............


Ahaha! the truth emerges!

More 'Owner improvements'
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gammadave
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 08 Oct 2019
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PostPosted: 13:07 - 09 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

WD Forte wrote:
gammadave wrote:


To be perfectly honest. etc..............


Ahaha! the truth emerges!

More 'Owner improvements'


??
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salem1987
Scooby Slapper



Joined: 10 Sep 2013
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PostPosted: 19:52 - 09 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my gamma it would not spark due to there being two black with red tracer wires from the cdi which were the wrong way around.

One going to the kill switch/ignition and one to the stator/alternator.

Swapped them round and it sparked.

good luck
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gammadave
L Plate Warrior



Joined: 08 Oct 2019
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PostPosted: 23:34 - 09 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right ... Update!

Derek Acorah has been round and done his bit and it is now sparking!

Well actually ... i stripped a loom down to just the ignition system, then went through everything on the bike wire by wire, comparing and testing, Then i swapped ignition coils, fresh plug, fitted the pick up coil correctly and it fired straight away.

The eagle eyed readers may have noticed i mentioned 'fitting the pick up coil correctly' well admittedly i has completely missed the second hole on the pick up coil and put the screw straight into the hole,

Didnt someone mention incompetent mechanics earlier?? lol
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