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Newbie: best time to buy a bike? /panier box things

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WreckTangle
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PostPosted: 20:31 - 21 Oct 2019    Post subject: Newbie: best time to buy a bike? /panier box things Reply with quote

hi there everyone, another newbie on the forum.

Just passed my MOD 2 test..........quite literally, as in about 7 hours ago! Very Happy

just had a fun of rippping off my L-plates............and realising that because I glued the back L Plate to the bottom of my reg plate.........I rippped off the reg plate as well........ Embarassed

just thought I would ask a couple of questions of you lot, as you seem like a very experienced bunch of people


At the moment I have a yamaha ybr 125, which was great as a learning bike, but is too small for me and is pratically made of nothing but rust and arthritis.


As i now have the full A license, I was looking for a bigger bike that is best sort of made for touring, you know, as in nothing stupidly fast, but at the same time can be used for commuting. I am not going to ask what bike to get, as there are so many different bikes/types whatever, this would be a discussion that would get a million replies.


I was going to wait until some point in the new year, around march or april, then buy the bike when the weather is better, (maybe more bikes for sale then as market picks up) but my friend** said that the best time for buying a bike is around christmas, as not many people buying bikes as weather is bad, so if you find a bike, you can haggle like hell as lack of buyers? (or something like that) . I only ask this as I might have to use the wretched thing called the 'credit card' Shocked

Is it worth waiting for march/april next year (get some money saved up by then) or do I go in early and take the plunge and just buy one at christmas?

**Then again, my friend suffers from constipation of the brain, and Diarrhea of the mouth (long story, don't ask)



I also wanted to know about the funny box things you can put on the bike that you can store stuff on , is it a panier (or something like that)

are they easy to attach/remove and when full, how much impact do they have the handling of the bike?

- If you could give your advice ...thanks! Mr. Green

i
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 20:45 - 21 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

VFR750. Cheap, will do moon mileage, plenty of torque, can get some hustle about it if you want it to. Easy enough to service most things. Heavy but you don't notice it when moving.

Hornet (CB600F) - Solid, can do moon mileage. Common as a first "big" bike, but command higher prices.

Panniers can be fitted to most bikes, there are soft throwovers and hard luggage. My VFR has a Givi Wingrack2, if you want to get an idea how they mount/work, google that.
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doggone
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PostPosted: 22:11 - 21 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Used bikes sell better in the spring but people know that and put more of them up for sale then.
You might pick up a bargain around now as enthusiasm wanes and Christmas looms, and again when January credit card bills come round.
A good well looked after example is not going to be cheap unless you are lucky, best hope is someone you know might let you take one a bit below going rate for minimal hassle and risk of dealing with oddballs through advertising.
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Bhud
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PostPosted: 17:01 - 22 Oct 2019    Post subject: Re: Newbie: best time to buy a bike? /panier box things Reply with quote

Congratulations on your pass.

WreckTangle wrote:
my friend** said that the best time for buying a bike is around christmas, as not many people buying bikes as weather is bad, so if you find a bike, you can haggle like hell as lack of buyers? (or something like that)


Yes, I agree with him. Bikes are seasonal - there seem to be a lot fewer bikes on the market in the winter but those that are up for sale are priced to sell. However, that applies to the used market. I'm not sure whether you will ever be able to haggle a new bike down by much, regardless of the time of the year.

Quote:
. I only ask this as I might have to use the wretched thing called the 'credit card' Shocked


You're a bit exhilarated, and this could affect your judgment and your wallet. Leave credit cards alone - only salesmen and banks win that game. Lots of excellent used touring bikes are on the used market.

If I were you, I would spend this time researching different bikes and finding out exactly what I wanted. Narrow it down to a choice of 2 or 3 specific used bikes, then begin the hunt for a used example. Making a decision right now to not buy before, for example, December, would be a good way to give yourself time.
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Andy_Pagin
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PostPosted: 19:02 - 22 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless you need a lot of storage a top box is probably a better and cheaper bet than side paniers.
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WreckTangle
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PostPosted: 19:07 - 22 Oct 2019    Post subject: Re: Newbie: best time to buy a bike? /panier box things Reply with quote

Ok, so my friend was actually talking sence about 'bike selling seasons'

It sounds like I am best to wait to spring then the market will have more bikes for sale then. Then the credit card will not be summoned.

suppose it is not best to get a powerful bike yet, whilst still inexperienced, and ice and snow are on there way.

ThatDippyTwat wrote:

VFR750. Cheap, will do moon mileage, plenty of torque, can get some hustle about it if you want it to. Easy enough to service most things. Heavy but you don't notice it when moving.



looks like a sports bike, would panniers and this bike mix? I will check this bike out through, looks sleek



Bhud wrote:
You're a bit exhilarated, and this could affect your judgment and your wallet. Leave credit cards alone - only salesmen and banks win that game. Lots of excellent used touring bikes are on the used market.


Yeah, I won't lie, passing that mod 2 test ment that yesterday I was buzzing like a child on half a tonne of sugar Mr. Green
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 23:29 - 22 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well done. Thumbs Up

Whatever bike you go for, If you want hard luggage whether it be a top box, panniers or both, buy a bike with them already fitted. It makes little difference to the price of a second hand bike, but if you are buying a hard luggage set new you won't get much change from a grand.

Much cheaper to buy a bike with them already fitted.
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 06:45 - 23 Oct 2019    Post subject: Re: Newbie: best time to buy a bike? /panier box things Reply with quote

WreckTangle wrote:
looks like a sports bike, would panniers and this bike mix? I will check this bike out through, looks sleek


Yup, indeed. Mine wears a Givi Wingrack 2. I can put a pair of panniers and a topbox on it if I need to. Other racks are available, ideally you buy one on a bike. Tourers and sports tourers are likely to come with one already fitted.

The VFR is a Sports Tourer, looks faster than it is. Not overly powerful, but plenty of grunt for a first "big" bike. They're cheap at the moment, doubt you'll hit a grand for something functional with an MOT. Maybe £1500 for something with all it's panels in a half decent condition. Don't sweat high mileage (Mines 115K) on these particular engines, if it's been looked after. Don't use a credit card, save up, they're not horribly expensive. Other bikes are available, go look at some. If you can, test ride some, though that may be a challenge with a brand new license.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 09:07 - 23 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really there's no best time to buy a bike, just more or less expensive or fruitful ones.

Actually, Christmas is probably the worst time of year to go bike shopping; too many folk have better things on thier mind. For better prices, February-ish, is probably the best, when Christmas credit card bills have come in and people look out at the wet weather and the bike they haven't ridden for a couple of months and have an idea... other than that, there's the phenomina of the March hares, when the first bright days becon folk out of hibernation, and other folk seing other bikes about have ideas to do the same. From there bikes start to get pulled out of winter storage ad the 'season' gets going, and bike ads and sales start to peak around Easter and the bank-hols. This is not the best time for prices, cos theres too many eager buyers keen to get in quick, but flip side is that there are more bikes about so more for sale and more chance of finding something worth your money.

As the season progresses, it settles down a bit and prices are more reasonable but it's swings and roundabouts on the shances as the number of ads falls off, and folk start doing other stuff again, like plan holidays.

Probably THE most significant thing to you, as a new rider wanting to progress from a 125 to a big-bike is when the insurance on your 125 expires.

Many insurers will only insure 125's, so they wont change details on your existing policy over top anything bigger. Of them that may, you will often have punative revision charges to face. Depending on how old you are, and how many years NCB you have spare, these can make swapping bikes mid-policy exhorbitantly expensive, if you even can go from a 125 to a big-bike on the plot.

Most often you will be best off taking out brand new policy on a new bike. Now, you have the vexation of the cancellation charges, 'cos you cant use existing NCB if policy still in force, to factor into the equation. Plus remember if you have the insurance on the monthly plan, its not paying your insurance month by month, its a credit deal you pay monthly to repay the loan that paid for a full years policy.

These sort of switch-over costs CAN be quite big, especially if your insurance is large to start with; A-N-D, if you are hoping for a bargain, these costs can easily outstrip any seasonal savings you may find on bike buy.

I mean, great idea to get a deal on new bike and pretend you are quids in 'cos seller is asking £500 below Parker's Price guide.... BUT that no real gain if it costs more than that to chop and change insurance policies.

I pay old duffer insurance circa £100 a year. Small print in the policy docs tells me There's actually a £120 mid term cancellation fee, and a pro-rata refund of unused insurance.. so I'd actually be out of pocket if I cancelled the day the policy started!

So check the small print! And dont sweat the small stuff.

Totally understand the impetus to go get a big-bike ASAP, after all that is probably why you bothered to take the tests... but.... there's no rush, and rushin be quick way to pain, financial and/or physical when it comes to two wheels.

Its heading into winter; whatever new shiny you might get this time of year aint going tyo stay shiney very long in the crap and the crud with a few days of road gime on it, and clocks go back soon, it's not like you will have the day-light to see it any-way.

More swings and roundabouts, but getting to grips with a bigger heavier bike in winter weather need not be the nicest, especially if you drop your new pride and joy in the first frost; a 125 lightweight IS less planted and more likely to go out from under you, but, you have been riding it however long, you at least have some experience on your side, and you are/were going to get rid anyway... whats a few more dents on a YBR?

It's likely a good idea to ride out the winter on the tiddler, and get the most from the existing insurace and plan to swap when that lapses, hopefully, when the weather starts to get better and the market starts to pick-up for the season, A-N-D theres a good chance that that would be the most ecconomical ways about, to-boot.

Just to temper enthusiasm a tad, remember, its a full bike licence NOT a big bike licence, no one will take it off you if you dont go get a mega monster in the next twelve months... meanwhile, your YBR is a 65mph motorcycle, it is practically as fast as any bike of any capacity is allowed to go.... and just 'cos its engine isn't so big, dont mean that its frame isn't! There are many 'big-bikes' more cramped than tiddlers on that score! And there is the cult of the 'Winter Hack' many bikers not risking the pride and joy machine in the winter muck and weather, actually swapping mounts to something shabby and often small, for the off-season;

So ponder how much of your desire to get on a big-bike straight away IS merely impatience, and how much you might gain frome just a little restraint.

BUT, Check the docs look at the small print, weigh up the costs, and think spring is when most bikes will be about to buy....
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 19:40 - 23 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
Really there's no best time to buy a bike, just more or less expensive or fruitful ones.


All that waffle, and your opening statement is bollocks.
I thought anyone around bikes for more than a year understood they're more expensive when the sun is out and enticing you to buy and go play. Cheaper when it's cold and rainy and you have to tog up properly to ride.
That said, you've probably not bought anything since 1975...
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thx1138
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PostPosted: 19:56 - 23 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

if buying second hand, Jan or Feb can be a good time
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WreckTangle
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PostPosted: 11:40 - 25 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Christ Teflon-man, the insurance sounds crazy Shocked

yeah, it seems that everyone is saying that best time to get bike is at feb - march - april, so I will keep to that, least I don't have the use the sinners card for it!
A couple of months of extra experience in ice and wind might be useful


Teflon-Mike wrote:
More swings and roundabouts, but getting to grips with a bigger heavier bike in winter weather need not be the nicest, especially if you drop your new pride and joy in the first frost; a 125 lightweight IS less planted and more likely to go out from under you, but, you have been riding it however long, you at least have some experience on your side, and you are/were going to get rid anyway... whats a few more dents on a YBR?


Yeah, I think the euphoria of passing test made me go a bit crazy, as my current bike is small and slow, as I when I did my training and test, I was using a big fat 650 honda thing, and my god, did that move like the clappers. It also stuck to the road pretty well. Sadley my yamaha is light, and the wheels are all thin, so at high speeds in the wind, you can feel the thing being pushed to the side by the wind Mad
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 13:31 - 25 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

WreckTangle wrote:
Christ Teflon-man, the insurance sounds crazy Shocked

I've never found the 'sense' or 'sanity' in it, in thirty years, so good luck trying. It does seem a scam, with a mandatory market, under-writers stick thier finger in the air and try guess how much they can squeeze out of you, I think, then the beuro-prats get in on the act and write a contract no-one can understand!!! BE WARNED... a lot of insurers will only insure 125's, and the charges for mid term changes can be punitive, so DO read the small print, and look at the policy docs to help decide when might be the least exorbitant time to trade up. As said, the penalty costs associated with chopping and changing insurance can easily outweigh any savings you may find on buying a bike, let alone any from buying that bike at any particular time of year.
WreckTangle wrote:
Teflon-Mike wrote:
More swings and roundabouts, but getting to grips with a bigger heavier bike in winter weather need not be the nicest, especially if you drop your new pride and joy in the first frost; a 125 lightweight IS less planted and more likely to go out from under you, but, you have been riding it however long, you at least have some experience on your side, and you are/were going to get rid anyway... whats a few more dents on a YBR?


Yeah, I think the euphoria of passing test made me go a bit crazy, as my current bike is small and slow, as I when I did my training and test, I was using a big fat 650 honda thing, and my god, did that move like the clappers. It also stuck to the road pretty well. Sadley my yamaha is light, and the wheels are all thin, so at high speeds in the wind, you can feel the thing being pushed to the side by the wind Mad


Your 125 isn't all THAT small.... I'm 6'2" and an not as cramped on so many 125's as I may be on, say a 600 Sports-Bike. Riding a built for lilliputian s VFR400 , is certainly a pain i the proverbial!! Yup, bigger cc bikes tend to be more comfy and with more mass more stable and planted, but this has little to do with the cc which is just the size of hole where fire happens inside the engine. And IME the main 'more' you get with big-bikes is mostly the cost of consumeables like tyres and chains and stuff... MPG is another anomaly, and I probably get as 'bad' mph from the 125 ragging it to get anywhere, as from the 750, I'm less frustrated to go rush on.... BUT that's the key; RUSHIN' be fast way to pain and poverty when it comes to bikes, so take it easy, learn patience, and enjoy the journey...... you'll get there in the end, and the destination always tends to be the same in the end.... so take your time, there's no rush!
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annemarie
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PostPosted: 13:52 - 25 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
Well done. Thumbs Up

Whatever bike you go for, If you want hard luggage whether it be a top box, panniers or both, buy a bike with them already fitted. It makes little difference to the price of a second hand bike, but if you are buying a hard luggage set new you won't get much change from a grand.

Much cheaper to buy a bike with them already fitted.


I couldn't get a bike with storage so I'm going to buy a set of hard saddlebags from Viking Bags and even though they don't ship to UK on their website, motorcyclehouse.co.uk is reselling them. The ones I picked are £430 plus £25 delivery but there's a 20% off sale for Halloween (SCARY20) or a new customer 22% sale (POPUP22) - shame it can't be combined. My total is £360 inc delivery so that's actually not too bad compared to HD set for nearly a grand + labour.
Fairly simple installation process too so can do it myself and all the bits are included except tools obviously.
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WreckTangle
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PostPosted: 14:17 - 25 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hopefully, as I am 34 years old and have had a car driving license for 14 years this will help........I hope.........no, maybe not.....oh well Sad



annemarie wrote:
Polarbear wrote:
Well done. Thumbs Up

Whatever bike you go for, If you want hard luggage whether it be a top box, panniers or both, buy a bike with them already fitted. It makes little difference to the price of a second hand bike, but if you are buying a hard luggage set new you won't get much change from a grand.

Much cheaper to buy a bike with them already fitted.


I couldn't get a bike with storage so I'm going to buy a set of hard saddlebags from Viking Bags and even though they don't ship to UK on their website, motorcyclehouse.co.uk is reselling them. The ones I picked are £430 plus £25 delivery but there's a 20% off sale for Halloween (SCARY20) or a new customer 22% sale (POPUP22) - shame it can't be combined. My total is £360 inc delivery so that's actually not too bad compared to HD set for nearly a grand + labour.
Fairly simple installation process too so can do it myself and all the bits are included except tools obviously.



Do the boxes have a massive impact on the ride/handling? I guess it like having a pillion, on the back, but a bit lighter?
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ThatDippyTwat
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PostPosted: 14:40 - 25 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

WreckTangle wrote:
Do the boxes have a massive impact on the ride/handling? I guess it like having a pillion, on the back, but a bit lighter?

Too many variables. Different luggage will impact handling in different ways, in addition, some bikes are more affected by luggage.

Pick a bike first. As said, if you can get luggage with it, do so, it's cheaper. If not, then look into what types of luggage are available for the bike, and see what people say about the impact on that bike.
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Teflon-Mike
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PostPosted: 17:01 - 25 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

WreckTangle wrote:
Do the boxes have a massive impact on the ride/handling? I guess it like having a pillion, on the back, but a bit lighter?


YES, but as likely on the width rather the weight.
1st time out on my VF after I bought a pair of 46 litre panniers, I skuffed them up on the wall past my own car putting bike back in the garage.
Leaving, I was fine, sort of thunked " Ah yes, bikes wider now, better watch that." By the time I got home that was forgot and well I got the bike 'out' no probs so I 'should'... Oh-Chit... be OK putting it back... Oh-Kay... maybe not! Filtering became a new game too. It does take some getting used to.

Top box is another matter. Weight that high does make more difference, and behind the rear axle, more still. Depends on how much weight you try shoving in them though, and how heavy the bike to start with. Old VF weighed quarter of a ton, so any weight was less of a proportion, but still high up and behind axle. Probably more significant than the mass though is mass moving around. Picture the scene of shoving 10Kg of lock and chain in the top-box, then it slides forwards inside when you brake, back again when you accelerate, and to one or other side when you try wiggling the bike out the drive.....

All in... it's something with so many variables, you HAVE to find out for yourself, get used to it and learn to adjust.
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Andy_Pagin
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PostPosted: 17:04 - 25 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

You won't even notice a top box is there, though the wider ones can give the impression you're being tailgated by something in the mirrors. I've had them on a YBR125, not on my FZS600 and a wide one my current FZ1, can't say I've noticed any effect on handling either way.
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Copycat73
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PostPosted: 17:28 - 25 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teflon-Mike wrote:
Really there's no best time to buy a bike, just more or less expensive or fruitful ones.
....


total load of sh1t..

best time to buy is 2 weeks before christmas ...
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WreckTangle
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PostPosted: 14:32 - 28 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy_Pagin wrote:
You won't even notice a top box is there, though the wider ones can give the impression you're being tailgated by something in the mirrors. I've had them on a YBR125, not on my FZS600 and a wide one my current FZ1, can't say I've noticed any effect on handling either way.


christ, you were brave putting it on a YBR125 Shocked

I looks like riding with boxes/panniers on is not as bad as I expected it to be, I was waiting for people to come back and say "They are like having elephants attached to the back of you bike, don't do it!!"

Thanks for your advise you lot, I will have to bear all this mind .... also will have to see what bikes are best to support luggage, when I buy one in the new year
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ThunderGuts
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PostPosted: 16:06 - 28 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have 50 litre soft panniers on my ER5 - no noticeable difference at any speed. Yes, have to be slightly more careful when filtering but they're still narrower (just) than the handlebars, albeit at a slightly lower height.

I have to say though having panniers transforms the practicality of the bike (as I'm sure would a topbox too) - even simple stuff like when I went for a ride yesterday, I threw a pair of winter gloves and a spare top into my pannier in case the summer gloves proved too chilly. They didn't as it turns out, so I got to ride with my preferable gloves on, but it's nice that I would be able to swap them out if I wanted to.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 16:50 - 28 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most of my later bike have been for touring so have had a luggage set. They were usually physically big powerful bikes and i didn't notice any real difference between having the luggage off or on handling wise.

The one place I did notice it was two up, fully loaded when wifie had packed the kitchen sink. The acceleration was noticeably down but the handling was ok. Good adjustable suspension is a must in my view in those situations.
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Baffler186
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PostPosted: 10:50 - 29 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a 50L box on my FZ6, didn't notice any difference. You could fit a helmet, trousers and 8 beers in there at a squeeze.

If you're worried about best time of year to save a few quid, then don't buy from a dealer at all. Unless you need credit.
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doggone
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Joined: 20 May 2004
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PostPosted: 11:03 - 29 Oct 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Severe cross winds will affect a bike more with luggage fitted, especially a top box because the wind has more leverage with it being higher up.
Mostly you just have to be expecting the increased push which can have you out of lane or on the verge.
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The last post was made 4 years, 178 days ago. Instead of replying here, would creating a new thread be more useful?
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