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HONDA Xl600Rmg 1986 will not start issue

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wego21
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PostPosted: 16:03 - 01 Nov 2019    Post subject: HONDA Xl600Rmg 1986 will not start issue Reply with quote

Hello all,

I have got a Honda xl600Rmg 1986 for free from one guy, he said it has issue with electric circuit only. I have fixed and changed all the parts and that's ok now. I have cleaned the carbs 2x, I have checked the valve clearances and spark. I have not disassembled the head to check for bent valves or correct timing marks, but I have checked the timing and clearances with endoscope and it looks properly aligned.

ISSUE:
When I try to start the bike it turns over, seems to be willing to start, but it will not keep running. As soon as I release the starter button it will die. It gives also a strange noise and some time seems to back fire through the carbs.

I have recorded a video as well https://youtu.be/ormnxFSKn30

If you know what's wrong please help me out
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Meatybeaty
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PostPosted: 16:47 - 01 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

First I would pull the spark plug and see what condition its in (wet or dry)
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 16:53 - 01 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Meatybeaty wrote:
First I would pull the spark plug and see what condition its in (wet or dry)


Aye, the video sounds like it's almost firing... either too much air / not enough fuel or too little air / too rich. Plug check should indicate which.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 16:58 - 01 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do you check clearances with a endoscope?
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wego21
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PostPosted: 17:23 - 01 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
How do you check clearances with a endoscope?


Sorry, I should have described in more detail, what I ment was, I turned the rotor to the T mark, checked for clearances with the feeler gauge, modified them to specs (they were a bit off on one side), and I put the endoscope into the spark plug hole to check and make sure that the piston was in TDC just in case, also to check if there were no scratch marks or even a hole in the piston, since it made a strange noise the first time, I wanted also to check the walls of the cylinder with the endoscope
I don't want to disassemble the head if possible, seems to be a pain in the but, to much stuff to unplug and unscrew. I went through hell just to clean the carbs Very Happy, did not expect it to be so complicated to take them out - definitely not so easy as when working with a scooter or pitbike.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 17:33 - 01 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you check that the lobes on the cams were opposite the valve when you checked each one? I don't think putting it on the timing mark is correct.
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Fizzer Thou
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PostPosted: 17:39 - 01 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

A friend used to own one of those 600s and the twin carbs are a PITA to set up.What we found in the end was that the seals between the cylinder head and particularly those numbered #14 in the attachment,were perished.We then went on to find that the strangely shaped one #15 was also damaged,but not as badly as those directly affected by the heat from the engine

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-xl600rm-1986-g_model50184/partslist/0082.html#.XbxsiLiaLTQ
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wego21
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PostPosted: 17:52 - 01 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Did you check that the lobes on the cams were opposite the valve when you checked each one? I don't think putting it on the timing mark is correct.


I was following the workshop manual and also I watched few videos on youtube how to set the clearances on this bike. I am sure that the clearance is setup properly. However I did not have the cover off so I am not sure if the the timing is properly set and not skipped a tooth or something like that. Seems that I will not have another choice than to remove the valve head cover and check the timing the proper way.

I have serviced 4 other bikes that I owned before and I had a feeling that there is something wrong with this one when I first heard it crank and the sounds that it made.
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wego21
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PostPosted: 17:56 - 01 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fizzer Thou wrote:
A friend used to own one of those 600s and the twin carbs are a PITA to set up.What we found in the end was that the seals between the cylinder head and particularly those numbered #14 in the attachment,were perished.We then went on to find that the strangely shaped one #15 was also damaged,but not as badly as those directly affected by the heat from the engine

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-xl600rm-1986-g_model50184/partslist/0082.html#.XbxsiLiaLTQ


Yep, I have the twin carb one, the bowls were leaking so I had to take it out, and since I removed it, I did a cleanup, there was a lot of dirt and stuff in the bowls since the previous owner did not have a fuel filter for some reason, He also did not have an air filter :O. The seal #15 was ok, I did not check the #14 though, it was stuck there pretty good so I let it be.


Last edited by wego21 on 18:00 - 01 Nov 2019; edited 1 time in total
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Meatybeaty
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PostPosted: 17:57 - 01 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

wego21 wrote:
Nobby the Bastard wrote:
Did you check that the lobes on the cams were opposite the valve when you checked each one? I don't think putting it on the timing mark is correct.


I was following the workshop manual and also I watched few videos on youtube how to set the clearances on this bike. I am sure that the clearance is setup properly. However I did not have the cover off so I am not sure if the the timing is properly set and not skipped a tooth or something like that. Seems that I will not have another choice than to remove the valve head cover and check the timing the proper way.

I have serviced 4 other bikes that I owned before and I had a feeling that there is something wrong with this one when I first heard it crank and the sounds that it made.


TDC is correct for checking the valve gaps as there's only one camshaft
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOCDfy46mbU
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wego21
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PostPosted: 18:10 - 01 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Meatybeaty wrote:

TDC is correct for checking the valve gaps as there's only one camshaft
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOCDfy46mbU


I was watching this video before I was cleaning the carbs, the previous owner did the mistake with switching the bowls, I have fixed that. I wish that the removing of the carbs would go as easy as on his bike though Very Happy. For me it was a pain, the rubber was very old and rock hard, so I did the old school trick once I removed it to soften the rubber and now its much better.
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 21:45 - 01 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are two tdcs for a single rotation of the cam...
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Suntan Sid
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PostPosted: 23:27 - 01 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

What Nobby said is correct!
To check the timing on the XL both cam lobes must be pointing 45 degrees upwards, if they're not pointing up you are not at TDC on the compression stroke, you are, effectively, 180 degrees out.
Removing the tappet covers will allow you to check this!

Also, have you checked that the decompressor is operating correctly?
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Shaft
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PostPosted: 23:54 - 01 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fizzer Thou wrote:
A friend used to own one of those 600s and the twin carbs are a PITA to set up.What we found in the end was that the seals between the cylinder head and particularly those numbered #14 in the attachment,were perished.We then went on to find that the strangely shaped one #15 was also damaged,but not as badly as those directly affected by the heat from the engine

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-xl600rm-1986-g_model50184/partslist/0082.html#.XbxsiLiaLTQ


I owned one too and it was a PITA to start, even when set up correctly.

Anything less than a 100% fully charged battery and the electric foot was a waste of time and, like most things, there was definitely a knack to kick starting it.

Once you have the knack, it's all gravy, I could get mine going first or second kick after months of inactivity, but it was always difficult when it was hot.

OP, continue doing all your checks, but be aware, starting one of these can be an exercise in extreme perseverance.
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Meatybeaty
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PostPosted: 06:22 - 02 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suntan Sid wrote:
What Nobby said is correct!
To check the timing on the XL both cam lobes must be pointing 45 degrees upwards, if they're not pointing up you are not at TDC on the compression stroke, you are, effectively, 180 degrees out.
Removing the tappet covers will allow you to check this!

Also, have you checked that the decompressor is operating correctly?

I think we can safely assume the OP knows where TDC is as he has adjusted the gaps , this is something else
Edit , completely agree about the decompressor and cable
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wego21
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PostPosted: 07:59 - 02 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suntan Sid wrote:
What Nobby said is correct!
To check the timing on the XL both cam lobes must be pointing 45 degrees upwards, if they're not pointing up you are not at TDC on the compression stroke, you are, effectively, 180 degrees out.
Removing the tappet covers will allow you to check this!

Also, have you checked that the decompressor is operating correctly?


I did not see the cam lobes when I removed the 4 covers (that is why I want to remove the head when I cant find whats wrong also to inspect the state of the lobes and timing chain), I will recheck this but from the videos and my experience with other bikes, the TDC where the valves were adjusted should be the correct one. Also after adjusting the valves, I also adjusted the de-compressor as the manual said that it has to be adjusted accordingly, I have set the gap on the cable according to the specs.
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Meatybeaty
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PostPosted: 08:19 - 02 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tried with the kickstart?
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wego21
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PostPosted: 08:55 - 02 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Meatybeaty wrote:
Have you tried with the kickstart?


No I did not try that, I dont have the kickstart lever, the bike came without it, and I did not buy it since its sold for a fortune Very Happy, I want to get it running first, then I will restore it properly so it retains its value as a veteran
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Kawasaki Jimbo
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PostPosted: 11:17 - 02 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

wego21 wrote:
he said it has issue with electric circuit only. I have fixed and changed all the parts and that's ok now.

Which parts?
wego21 wrote:
He also did not have an air filter :O.

Does it have one now, and will it run without it?
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wego21
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PostPosted: 11:24 - 02 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kawasaki Jimbo wrote:
wego21 wrote:
he said it has issue with electric circuit only. I have fixed and changed all the parts and that's ok now.

Which parts?
wego21 wrote:
He also did not have an air filter :O.

Does it have one now, and will it run without it?


Yes it does have air-filter now and it will not start with or without it. The electric parts that were changed: the fuse, starter relay and the whole ignition switch (the old one was completely destroyed, it was just for display). when I checked the cables it looked like the guy was trying to hard wire the cables to override the ignition switch
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bikenut
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PostPosted: 12:55 - 02 Nov 2019    Post subject: start Reply with quote

cvompression test ?

clean plug and choke working properly, the sprung loaded flap....
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wego21
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PostPosted: 13:27 - 02 Nov 2019    Post subject: Re: start Reply with quote

bikenut wrote:
cvompression test ?

clean plug and choke working properly, the sprung loaded flap....


Plug is clean, choke working properly. I have ordered the gauge for measuring compression so I will check that when it arrives. Seems that disassembling the head will be the next thing I would have to do, so I will do a proper check to see if the valves are not leaking
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Nobby the Bastard
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PostPosted: 15:19 - 02 Nov 2019    Post subject: Re: start Reply with quote

wego21 wrote:
bikenut wrote:
cvompression test ?

clean plug and choke working properly, the sprung loaded flap....


Plug is clean, choke working properly. I have ordered the gauge for measuring compression so I will check that when it arrives. Seems that disassembling the head will be the next thing I would have to do, so I will do a proper check to see if the valves are not leaking


From your comment about not seeing lobes when setting the c:learances, it's more likely that you've set then with the lobes at the bottom, meaning your clearances are now massively big, meaning the valves aren't opening enough.
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Robby
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PostPosted: 16:16 - 02 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also owned one of these a few years ago. As Shaft said, the electric start on them is useless.
Don't even try without a fully charged, fairly new battery. New battery cables can also help, as can stripping down and cleaning the starter motor, and replacing brushes.
I used to just use the kick start. Not a particularly easy bike to kick start either, but more effective than the electric start.

For general diagnosis now, and just to get it running, spray some easy start into it and see if it works.
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ssray
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PostPosted: 12:02 - 04 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

The last single I had that was a pig was down to the pilot screw being in too far, check its current spec
Had it been standing? Carbs been cleaned?
New plug and easy start, fully charged battery or connected to a non running car battery to allow for a few different throttle openings, ie if its trying but not starting then give it wide open throttle for a bit then return to normal
Only turn over for 10-15 seconds at a time
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