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blue_painted
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PostPosted: 16:17 - 07 Nov 2019    Post subject: Spongey brakes Reply with quote

I've had the Bonnie's front caliper refurbed - new seals, pistons etc. - but now I can't get the brakes right.

I've bled half a bottle of brake fluid through and I see no air bubbles in the outflow any more. My best guess is there's air behind the pistons so the next step is to push them right back and clamp them there and go through bleeding bleeding again.

But am I missing anything?
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sickpup
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PostPosted: 16:24 - 07 Nov 2019    Post subject: Re: Spongey brakes Reply with quote

blue_painted wrote:
But am I missing anything?


Yes

blue_painted wrote:
My best guess is there's air behind the pistons so the next step is to push them right back and clamp them there and go through bleeding bleeding again.


This is at least part of your problem. The absolute easiest way to bleed rebuilt brakes is to have the pistons out by a mm or 2 and then fill the caliper with fluid before you even attach the hose. Otherwise you have a caliper full of air you need to blled through.
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Polarbear
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PostPosted: 19:36 - 07 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've found that that last little bit of air can be a right bitch to get out.

The old trick of cable tying the brake on over night works in most cases for me.
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blue_painted
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PostPosted: 22:06 - 07 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Polarbear wrote:
I've found that that last little bit of air can be a right bitch to get out.

The old trick of cable tying the brake on over night works in most cases for me.


So keeping the system under pressure for several hours? I'll give that a go.
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Easy-X
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PostPosted: 11:08 - 08 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

mpd72 wrote:
Another idea is to fill a thump pump oil can with brake fluid, attach a hose to the bleed nipple and slowly pump fluid in from the bottom, opening the lever at the top to allow air to escape.

It pushed air up the system from the bottom instead of trying to bleed downhill. Air tends to rise, not fall.


Is that what they call "reverse bleeding" ?
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 11:25 - 08 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

You also sometimes get a small bubble sat behind the top banjo bolt at the top of the brake line. Putting a rag under it (to catch any fluid) and "bleeding" the top banjo bolt in the same way you would the calliper sometimes rewards you with a little fart of bubbles.
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xX-Alex-Xx
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PostPosted: 17:53 - 08 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vacuum pump for the bleed, and cable-ties holding the brake lever back ovenight has always worked for me.

When I did the GSR's brake lines this year (convert from rubber to braided), the lever still felt a bit spongy after the change, but the brakes worked a LOAD better even with the feel. Just an excuse to upgrade to a radial master Laughing
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 20:21 - 08 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unbolt caliper, raise and tilt/rotate while bleeding.

Clamping lever to bar works, but you may get better results doing it a few nights in a row after riding it during the day.
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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 19:22 - 09 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hong Kong Phooey wrote:
Unbolt caliper, raise and tilt/rotate while bleeding.

Just what I was getting round to saying, with the addition of " try tapping the pipe and caliper with the plastic end of a screwdriver, this helps to dislodge stuck air bubbles."

Just an observation , when the lever is pulled back to the bar then surely it won't bleed as the master cylinder and reservoir are isolated from each other . Once the lever is pulled in maybe 10mm the piston passes the filling hole,other wise how would the piston generate pressure to operate the brakes as you pull the lever?
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Robby
Dirty Old Man



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PostPosted: 21:56 - 09 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby's lazy method for bleeding brakes after draining the system.

Put everything back together. Do up all of the joints, bleed nipples, as if you were going to ride it.

Open the master cylinder lid. Fill with fluid.

Keep working the brake lever for 10 minutes. Watch lots of little bubbles appear in the master cylinder.

Go and make a cup of tea. Go back to the garage.

Keep working the lever whilst drinking tea. By the time the tea is finished, the lever should be fairly firm.

Put a pipe on the bleed nipple and crack it off to bleed out the last little bit of air.

Top up the master cylinder, lid back on, job done.
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Hong Kong Phooey
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PostPosted: 23:13 - 09 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

steve the grease wrote:

Just an observation , when the lever is pulled back to the bar then surely it won't bleed as the master cylinder and reservoir are isolated from each other . Once the lever is pulled in maybe 10mm the piston passes the filling hole,other wise how would the piston generate pressure to operate the brakes as you pull the lever?


Witchcraft.

I think the pressure makes the smaller bubbles even smaller still, enough to "dissolve" into the fluid, and as the pressure exerted doesn't force the brake fluid molecules any closer, means the smaller air, now with less surface area drag, becomes mobile enough to find its way through the fluid filled lines and eventually upwards to the master cylinder. Once you release the lever pressure the bubbles are pumped out to the reservoir.

A huge bubble, just like a bog blocking turd, will still prove troublesome to flush through using that method. These should be flushed using the usual way.
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blue_painted
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PostPosted: 11:57 - 10 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well then .... this is what I did ...

1. Hooked the caliper to the bar-end (was already unmounted) bleed nipple uppermost

2. Bled and tapped (handy piece of wood) - got quite a few biggish bubbles

Put the caliper back - still spongey but no longer "as fuck" ...

3. Cable-tied and left over night

Feels good now but other crap (doing accounts) means I can't test it yet.

Thanks all for the help and advice. Very Happy Thumbs Up
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 14:32 - 10 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

steve the grease wrote:


Just an observation , when the lever is pulled back to the bar then surely it won't bleed as the master cylinder and reservoir are isolated from each other . Once the lever is pulled in maybe 10mm the piston passes the filling hole,other wise how would the piston generate pressure to operate the brakes as you pull the lever?


Yes, it's when you release it from being tied back that it bleeds the air.

Think about it. When you pull the lever the first thing it does is pump whatever is in the master piston down towards the calliper, including any air.

So you tie the lever down for a bit, any air bubbles find their way to the top of the system then the first thing you do is release the lever, allowing them to pop back up into the master cylinder reservoir.

I also suspect the (comparatively huge) pressure of a fully applied hydraulic brake will squeeze the air bubbles down to a smaller size which makes it easier for them to find their way to the top. Releasing the lever will see them expand again, just as they are (hopefully) sat directly below the return hole to the reservoir.
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I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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steve the grease
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PostPosted: 01:35 - 11 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

stinkwheel wrote:
steve the grease wrote:


Just an observation , when the lever is pulled back to the bar then surely it won't bleed as the master cylinder and reservoir are isolated from each other . Once the lever is pulled in maybe 10mm the piston passes the filling hole,other wise how would the piston generate pressure to operate the brakes as you pull the lever?


Yes, it's when you release it from being tied back that it bleeds the air.

Think about it. When you pull the lever the first thing it does is pump whatever is in the master piston down towards the calliper, including any air.

So you tie the lever down for a bit, any air bubbles find their way to the top of the system then the first thing you do is release the lever, allowing them to pop back up into the master cylinder reservoir.

I also suspect the (comparatively huge) pressure of a fully applied hydraulic brake will squeeze the air bubbles down to a smaller size which makes it easier for them to find their way to the top. Releasing the lever will see them expand again, just as they are (hopefully) sat directly below the return hole to the reservoir.

Yeah, that seems like sound reasoning , I'll have that......
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JackButler
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PostPosted: 18:30 - 11 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robby's (the dirty old man) technique is probably closer to how it's done at the factory & is the technique of choice by many who strip & re-build brakes regular.

Nip everything up, fill the reservoir, then pump the lever like mad. IME you'll start to feel the pressure build after just a few mins, meanwhile the level in the reservoir keeps dropping & the fluid looks like champagne. I generally have to refill the reservoir 3-4X on a dry system. Finally, when you have pressure & the pistons are out you can start cracking the bleed nipples.

If this doesn't happen then there is something else wrong.
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stinkwheel
Bovine Proctologist



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PostPosted: 22:24 - 11 Nov 2019    Post subject: Reply with quote

At a mechanics they fill the reservoir, put a clear hose on the nipple, crack it open and go do something else for half an hour. they top up the reservoir if they are walking past.

Gravity does the rest.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.
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