Selective replating....

[mr.z]

Anyone ever heared of it?

I have a nasty chunk out of a fork leg, not good, roby mentioned haveing it replated, i was talking to the guy i'm borrowing some forks off and he mentioned this... he did some training with a firm called SELECTRON about 10 years ago, iv'e done a quick search and it didn't come up with much, there were one or two firms but i dont know if they would deal with my little problem...

I was wondering if any of you had delt with any companys who do this?

Also while i'm here, the ones i'm borrowing are pitted at the top, shouldn't matter enormously but is there anything i can do about rust/pitting, or should i just leave it alone? they only have to get me though an mot so its not a big deal if they cannot be fixed...
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>RidingSkills<->Tech Tips<->MyBikes<

[mr jamez]

https://www.allbikeengineering.co.uk/index.html any help to you?

I think it was mentioned here that you can fix pitting/scratches etc with araldite epoxy resin stuff, bit of a bodge but apparently works well

[ZRX61]

[stinkwheel]

Araldite repair works well, even on the 'working' part of the fork leg. You MUST use slow setting epoxy (araldite precision for example...NOT rapide). The key to success is in the preparation, remove all traces of rust with wire wool and paraffin then thoroughly degrease using a solvent (xylene works well, sold as araldite thinners, TCE or carbon tet. if you can get them is better). Now fill any pits with your epoxy leave to set for minimum 24h and sand as described by ZRX61. Take your time to get it REALLY smooth, it is a good fix.
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“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[ZRX61]

Don't faff about with wire wool & paraffin, just hit it with some dilute phosphoric acid & the rust disappears.

[stinkwheel]

[mr.z]

Execelent, yeh had heared of it, in fact i might have mentioned it in the other post

I didn't realise it was a real workable soloution, only an emergency bodge... would roughing the offending pit help the araldite adhere? i'm guessing not but thought i'd ask...

Thanks for the link mr james, could be extremely handy in future looks like i'd be looking at 95 to have my forks sorted Ive seen entire cx's go for that much!

For saying there is such a big cut out of the fork its done well to last this long, without the cutting edge of the mark it would probably be fine anyway, its only letting out tiny ammounts at a time, the forks have had gaiters on for the last 20 odd years, its amazeing some inbred monkey would make such a mashed up job of it...
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>RidingSkills<->Tech Tips<->MyBikes<

[stinkwheel]

Of course the true ratbike solution would be to drain the oil out of the offending fork leg, double the viscosity of the stuff in the other and keep riding it. The MOT tester is not allowed to look under your gaiters if they are clamped down with jubilee clips. I have successfully MOTed many bikes with leaky fork seals using this technique.

Damping is for poofs.
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[mr.z]

[stinkwheel]

You misread, I said DAMPING is for poofs, this is what stops the thing boinging about all over the place when you hit a bump (as facilitated by oil in your forks). If you go about with no suspension at all you may well feel like a poof with the pounding your arse takes
____________________
“Rule one: Always stick around for one more drink. That's when things happen. That's when you find out everything you want to know.”
I did the 2010 Round Britain Rally on my 350 Bullet. 89 landmarks, 3 months, 9,500 miles.

[mr.z]